Quoted from bobukcat:

I'm assuming you've found the answer to your question by now but if not - the bracket should not be hitting / sitting on the wood like that. Someone disconnected the PF from the slide assembly and then never stuck it back on. It should slide up onto that back hinge / post and the arm will snap in to prevent it from going down and hitting the wood rail. There are some good pictures and instructions in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-remove-entire-playfield
In my opinion this is by far the best playfield slide / service position system ever put into a production pinball machine and I wish JJP, AP and others would use it.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Not really a hack, just one of the ways to repair burned or traces lifted when that transistor was replaced.
Whenever you replace a transistor on these or any board with suppression diodes installed on the board, do yourself a favor and replace the corresponding diode at the same time as the transistor.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Bad suppression diode, failing coil, code glitch (locking the coil on too long)...

Quoted from humberto:

Hi pinless,

Assuming you are talking about the line filter the manual states (Pg 1-39): Domestic Game: 8A N.B. (normal burn) and Foreign Game 5A, S.B. (slow burn)
I am a bit cautious because I've seen these units swapped and the fuses may change with different models. But I have limited experience with Pinball.
See a photo of the box in my machine (Foreign model) for instance.
Cheers.[quoted image]

Quoted from PinJim:

I’m closing in on my STTNG refurb. Topside is nearly complete. Today I focused on rebuilding all of the VUK and subway opto boards. I’m trying to replace every opto on the game, and do it as cheaply as possible. I also replaced all of the topside cherry switches. Hoping this machine runs without problems for 5 or 10 years...[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mavantix:

That soldering and wire hack work...
J120/121 are GI power, and those need to be redone with new headers/connectors, they're burnt, but not your ball launch issue.
The wiring to your eject coil and trough opto board is suspect AF, I would redo it all correctly... but at minimum, flow solder on all the wire connections and make sure it's actually wired properly. The white/yellow wire running to that coil doesn't look well connected.

Quoted from PinJim:

Technically I think they were Cherry DA3C-B1AA, which are NLA.
I have been using DB3C-B1AA switches, which require more force to actuate. I have them on all of my STTNG ramps and so far they've been fine. More details are in the post below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games#post-4941787
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/zf-electronics/db3c-b1aa/?qs=Z9t1pRjfOcyNm7XI%2Fy9Iqw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
Edited post since my pic wasn't working...

Quoted from Tranquilize:

I'd be checking the flipper transistors if your flippers are locking on. Check the manual for fuse lines if they are blowing. Sounds like you have some board work ahead.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Hey that my avatar! LOL
But you now know one of the reasons I chose it

Quoted from Pinless:

I got another round of fuses and it immediately blew F103 upon turning the power on.
Where should I start checking?
The CPU chip appears to be seated. Coils look ok.
I’m pretty sure I just bought the last 3A slow blow fuses witching a 30 mile radius

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This could be bad as you may have a broken tieback wire, if you don't know what this is please look here .... actually look here anyways.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation
The issue with a broken tieback wire is that you can repair/replace your 8 driver PCB, but if this wire is broken the drive transistors will blow immediately after your repair due to the excessive flyback voltage from the games coils hitting the transistor like a sledge hammer when their field collapses.
This is what F103 Powers:
[quoted image]
With no tieback voltage to dissipate the coils flyback voltage all of the 4 transistors highlight in the image below are suspected failures:
[quoted image]
NOTE, this may also cause the coils to melt.
If you want to confirm this is the problem, simply remove J4 from the 8-Driver board and turn the machine on; F103 should not blow.

Quoted from PinJim:

I replaced my stock sub with this today:
amazon.com link »
In short, it was an easy add. The mounting holes lined up and the spade connectors matched the original. But, it added virtually nothing in terms of bass, which I guess is to be expected. I supposed one needs to alter the back box to cabinet volume, which isn’t the clearest thing to do on DCS with stock backbox speakers.
Given that, I hooked my 10” Polk sub up to the game. Man, it really adds some bass. But even it that, it seems like mids are missing.
I may modify the sound board to alter the back box to cabinet volume, to see if I pick up mids.
I understand it’s not a high end sound system, but I think i can make it better...

Quoted from Scoot:

If you haven’t seen these are a must. You just have to add alligator clips. I have a 5amp and a 3amp version.
Blue Sea Systems Push Button Reset Only Quick Connect 3A Circuit Breaker amazon.com link »[quoted image]

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I had mine on DotsXL the entire time I had the Color DMD in my STTNG...I recently moved it to my Metallica and installed the LED version in STTNG...it looks amazing!

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I do in this machine

Quoted from sparksterz:

Well...opto tested my right flipper board. The attached gif has a fast activation followed by a slower activation. Tests read out fine, but I swapped it with my left flipper opto board which also tested the same, and boy was the difference night and day!
I'm not sure why I can't read the opto board as bad by my tests on the machine or even with this standalone tester...it's almost like I would need an oscilloscope to analyze for any ripple.
I did notice that my left/right flipper opto boards were slightly different in their solder mask (font and size), and had a red connection on one versus white on the other. Thought it was interesting considering both boards looked original.
I'm SOOOOO close to hitting the delta ramp now...I get just before the diverter. At this point I'm thinking it's time for me to clean the playfield as it's a bit rough in spots, clean the ramps, swap the balls and try to adjust the game to the right level.[quoted image]

Quoted from sparksterz:

Both of them appeared to be - yes. I compared them to the rottendog and anarchy boards and neither match. There's also no other markings designating another company.
The failing one looked standard like this one: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O3ZonrM97Gs/VIu4igGMDbI/AAAAAAAANKg/nfNBcbQU9q4/s1600/IMG_20141211_121103.jpg

Quoted from Zitt:

IPDB.orghas the rom file.
Do you know anyone with an EPROM programmer?
https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/star-trek-the-next-generation-sound-rom-set-l-1-u2-u8-bally-williams-roms/
seems to be able to make them... have no affiliation. Random first link found by google search.
I could do it as well; but I'm not sure if I have stock of the right size EPROM.

Quoted from Zitt:

It probably isn't. I rarely hear of "corrupted" ROMs unless they are left "open" to light. Most have light blocking stickers that prevent them from going corrupt.
That said; I looked at my stash. Have smaller 15, 32, and 512k eproms… but no 27c040's (4Mbit) which the schematics claim U5 is.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

There are no .156 connectors on the trough opto boards, these are both .100 IDC thru connectors.
Both of these connectors are now obsolete but available if ordered in sufficient quantities.
The original transmitter board connector is a PanCon MAS-CON 22awg 5 pin thru connector https://panconcorp.com/product/pancon-connectors-mas-con-100-idc-wire-to-board-connector-system-through-connectors-non-polarized-ct100f22-5-d/
The original detector board connector is a PanCon MAS-CON 22awg 12 pin thru connector https://panconcorp.com/product/pancon-connectors-mas-con-100-idc-wire-to-board-connector-system-through-connectors-non-polarized-ct100f22-12-c/
Please let me know if you are able to find these anywhere.

Quoted from dashv:

Amazing response. I’m actually going to copy-paste this in an email to the distributor. it is a top dollar price and they are claiming a full work over on the machine and a 90 day warranty. I will not have an opportunity to play before I buy.

Quoted from Zitt:

Yet no upvotes.
I speak from experience.
I was just looking at my machine this weekend repairing the Power Driver Board. I had to do more adjustments to be back drop target a day or two because it was shotgunning after repairing it for "Credit dot". My Drop Target was "stripped" due to constant repair which came to a head a couple of years ago at TPF. The three wood screws were stripped and I had to find a toothpick or two for onsite repair before I did a real repair with wood glue when it got home.
I have burned traces which someone repaired. I repaired burnt connectors last time I had it on the bench - even installed new crimp on connectors. Still have broken side plastics and the plastic between neutral and advance rank. I repaired the rear plastic:
I still have ticking timebomb of tieback... lazy, it's 104 with 112 heat index right now. So no chance until winter- maybe.
My local friend has an STNG with the delta damage... and was saying how it bothered him greatly. His he said looked like someone took a Dremel to it. I'm seeing the mylar on mine beginning to bubble. So I know it's going to be a fix needed soon - hopefully an easy repair.
My machine was an Auction machine from unknown heritage - probably a routed game. I paid "top dollar" back in 2007... and it was dirty with all kinds of issues. I still haven't bravely tore down the machine for a real shop and clean. So; if I were paying a distributor "top dollar"; I'd expect him to do it for a "restored game".
Finally - I know this is going to be dismissed as "too expensive"... but given this machine's current market prices... and the fact that this was said:

This right here should give you an immediate pause / WTF moment. You aren't getting a deal. You will be on the upper range of pricing. This game needs to be perfect. DO NOT TRUST the seller - I don't care who it is... unless is direct from HEP himself.
You need to discuss a refundable deposit to hold the game.
Pay Frontier airlines or some other cheap airline.
Go see the game and look at it with your own hands.
If it is an A++ game or you can get a more in line price... then pay them and watch them wrap it up for shipping or whatever.
Just don't "trust the seller"; you'll probably end up regretting it.
Re-Read that above... and seriously consider it. I can't tell you how many times we have heard "stories" and regrets.

Quoted from PinJim:

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned testing the optos, as this seems to the one of the major pain points for this game. Possibly nobody has mentioned it because flaky optos would be tough to identify in a 30 minute look over? You could use the switch test to make sure they are all working, then do the old "pound my fist on the playfield" to see if any switches flake out. But really, from my experience anyhow, the only way to know if there are flaky optos is to play the game and see if it randomly spits out extra balls.
Replacing all of the optos is no small feat, and in my opinion, is part of the required steps to make this game stable.Then there are the 16 opto board connectors, 12V feeds, etc. What could possibly go wrong? =)

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Have you replaced the ribbon cables between the CPU and sound board?

Quoted from dashv:

I don’t see a way to do upvotes on my phone and I’m still a pinside noob.
I’ll load up the website on my pc this weekend and give your posts some attention.
I sent you list off to the dealer. They are updating the rom (was LX-5).
There is some ramp damage and they said they will repair or replace it with no added cost. (Showed me a picture). They confirmed repairs to traces, tieback, and the other things with pictures. Rubbers have all been replaced. Balls replaced. The LEDs are premium non-ghosting.
It’s M&P Amusements selling it for $6,495 with a 90 day warranty/support.
https://mpamusement.com/collections/used-pinball-machines/products/star-trek-the-next-generation-pinball-machine
I got my AFMR LE from Game Room Guys a couple of years ago and they took great care of me while I learned the ropes dialing in my first ever pin. At that point I’d never worked a pin before ever. But GRG free phone/email support talked me through taking out the playfield, routine maintenance, etc.
That gave me the confidence I needed to buy a Revenge from Mars that needed some TLC and I’ve done quite well with that one without support.
So I’m comfortable with dealers but appreciate folks experience and value knowing what to look for since each table is so different. This would be my 3rd pin.

Quoted from dashv:

Yeah, I knew it was high. That’s why I wanted to go in with a punch list of things to ask/check beyond the generic.
If I have confirmed that they or (someone) addressed everything on that list appropriately that’s a lot of time/labor saved for me for now.
So question is, with all those things addressed and a 90 day support window is it worth it?
Worst case I get it. Something blows or got missed, I notice it during the support period, and they send me the part and/or walk me through the repair.
If they have good support, have already addressed the known issues, and I have no intention of ever reselling the pin, is the game worth it?
From everything I’ve read on this thread about maintenance I’m honestly scared to buy this table at all. Let alone from a venue without some kind of support window.
But I don’t want to avoid it either just because stuff will break. I wouldn’t own any.
This pin is cheaper than my AFMR LE but I think I’ll have just as much fun if it arrives in working order. That’s how I am initially determining if it’s “worth it”.

Quoted from Zitt:

pinless … I ordered some 4Mbit eeproms from a China "pull" vendor … just so I had some on hand.
I'm assuming you're good... or you got a prom from PinGuy. If not; let me know.

Quoted from etien:

yeah, still puzzled about that, havent got a lock lit on the borg ship for a very long time as well. I know the ROM is trying to acheive a certain ratio of multi ball per game by NOT lligthing the lock lit on the neutral zone and/or the borg ship, but this is really anoying. Any idea what should be the setting to maximize the lock lit on the borg ship that I always find rewarding? ( got the latest ROM )

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Nope, there is a delta ramp entry opto failure with the game on location that is not causing the ball diverter coil to not energize.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You made me play my game...
Game1:
On ball 1 with no balls locked, as soon as I hit the top drop target to light locks (not at ball launch) the Delta ramp was flashing...and locked ball 1 into the Borg Ship.
Game2:
Ball launch, hit Beta ramp for flipper skill shot, passed to left flipper, hit drop target to lock light and Delta ramp was flashing, hit delta ramp and locked ball 1 in Borg ship.
Game 3:
Ball launch, chose lite lock at ball launch to lock ball one. Hit upper drop target to light lock, Delta ramp was flashing, hit Delta ramp to lock ball 2 in Borg ship.
Seems like it should be pretty easy to lock after all ....

I would say ... maybe. What game code are you running?

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Outstanding job on the cabinet!
How much fun was it getting those side rails off?
PM me if you need the "Warranty Void if Removed" Serial Number Labels. I have these in a .doc MS word file.
The bar code is easy to make you just need a Code 39 bar code generator to make the image ... fortunately you can generate one from here https://www.morovia.com/free-online-barcode-generator/

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Does that mean those photos were taken by VirtuaPin? That’s a pretty damn good advertisement for them

Quoted from vbobrusev:

Where you got decals?

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Check your trough optos. the game may think you're draining

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Check your trough optos. the game may think you're draining

Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Thanks. Don't be so skeptical next time, I have learned not to apply logic to this game! haha

Quoted from MikeSinMD:

Update: the 16 opto board is bad. I borrowed one from someone and tried it and everything worked. Put mine back in and same problem. Anyone got a 16 opto board that I can buy?

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Ok that did come out easy.
One coil question. The main diverter coil is fried. Think it’s an AE 25-1000 any others that will work? I can order one but have some odd spares if there are any you can switch out

Quoted from dmacy:

Is it just a pop bumper stud? Think so and just gets ran through bottom.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Looks great.
I think you may have missed connection a couple of your ground wires; essentially any piece of metal that penetrates the cabinet should be grounded.[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

One goes on the prop rod, and the other goes on the bolt for that penetrated the cabinet; yeah I know its all the same ground, but separate grounds are required by the NEC in this instance.[quoted image]

Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Whoh! Two thumbs up for pinless[quoted image]

Quoted from EaglePin:

Here are a few pics from mine. Hope this helps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Manny65:

Is the drop target correctly locking in the up position? Otherwise the micro switch on the drop target isn't sensing it in the up position - the machine is trying to continually push the target up.
In the picture below item 24 (also shown with the red arrow) is a clear plastic called an actuator guide, it holds the micro switch actuator arm in place to be triggered correctly by the target, sometimes if the guide is not there the actuator can get pushed sideways out of the way and then gets caught on other parts of the mech
[quoted image]

Quoted from Scott9:

I have a feeling that I am going to be returning a handful of these boards. I just wanted to have everything in hand incase I had an issue when I moved everything over to the new cabinets ... Who do you get your boards from?

Quoted from mrossman5:

https://www.pinballinc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=80
Hope this helps.

Quoted from Zitt:

Does cpr not have it in stock?

Quoted from mrossman5:

Completely normal. It’s called “staging” and pretty much every game with two flippers on one side of the game has it. In multiball, it allows you to shoot the right orbit even if you have a ball trapped on the right flipper.

Quoted from Manny65:

The reason the actuator arm on the drop target coil is sitting too far out is that the bracket is broken - see the red circles compare the original with the new assembly. Part is A-14913 the long slim piece of steel on the bracket is bent around to hold the actuator arm in place - this bit tends to break off (like on yours). Note some to the replacement version of this part don't have the brass ring (used near coils to stop becoming magnetised) so I'd go one like this http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14913
Also you original drop target has a home made reset plate (blue circle), which you should replace at the same. Part is 01-10380
[quoted image]
I don't think the switch actuator arm is too short, rather you may need to adjust the angle to the switch such that the actuator arm is lower (note the position of the 2 switch arms between the old and new drop targets - see the green cricles)
[quoted image]

Quoted from bbulkley:

I finished restoring my newly acquired TNG - I changed a few things from stock based on personal preference, but they are easily reversible if I want to go back at any point.
Full custom set of Comet LEDs (I went through a lot of bulbs to get the look I wanted), LED OCD, GI OCD, ColorDMD, PDI glass, PDI mirror blades, Flipper Fidelity speakers, Pinsub output, Kahr daughterboard (sue me - I like the added reliability), star post LEDs, Comet Matrix spot for lower playfield, cleaned top and bottom including a deep scrub of the borg ship, fixed up the cannons so they are fast and powerful, re-soldered several PCB components to address failing connections, cleaned and lubricated all moving metal parts, metal lane extenders, new coil sleeves, rebuilt flippers including bushings and bats, Perfect Play rings all around, acrylic borg windows, lit bird of prey, new playfield plastics for anything bent or broken, purple pops and lane dividers with a modified cap for the third pop, purple posts, backbox bolts, new balls, and a keyless lock.
I'm happy with the results, but now I kind of need a new project!
The first picture is with the glass on - love that PDI glass.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from dmacy:

Reflow the header pins and the leads to the bulb holder. That should get you going again.

Quoted from Pin_Guy:This is what you were looking for...[quoted image]

Quoted from Mathazar:

Here's mine.....[quoted image]

Quoted from monkfe:

the yellow one coming from your transformer...

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Blanking circuit issues.
Good news! (And bad news).
Machine comes to life again (sort of).
After giving it 24 hours to think on it and how I could methodically test things, I did the following:
Read everyone's feedback 8 times (thank you!).
Opened coin door.
Removed J107
Turned on... Screen came on! It's alive! Turned off.
Plugged in J107 without the tieback wire. Turned on... Screen came on! Turned off
Plugged in J107 with tieback wire. Turned on... Screen came on! Turned off
Methodically checked LEDs... the blanking circuit isn't working. Check 2 posts above me for proper behavior.
This is what mine does.

That would explain the behavior that caused F103, F104, and F105 to all pop about the same time.
Now the question is... why isn't the blanking circuit working? I will look into this and do some research but am open to suggestions.
Still broken, but much less despondent. Got my High Score on Twilight Zone while thinking through this. Thanks again all![quoted image]

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Blanking circuit issues.
Good news! (And bad news).
Machine comes to life again (sort of).
After giving it 24 hours to think on it and how I could methodically test things, I did the following:
Read everyone's feedback 8 times (thank you!).
Opened coin door.
Removed J107
Turned on... Screen came on! It's alive! Turned off.
Plugged in J107 without the tieback wire. Turned on... Screen came on! Turned off
Plugged in J107 with tieback wire. Turned on... Screen came on! Turned off
Methodically checked LEDs... the blanking circuit isn't working. Check 2 posts above me for proper behavior.
This is what mine does.

That would explain the behavior that caused F103, F104, and F105 to all pop about the same time.
Now the question is... why isn't the blanking circuit working? I will look into this and do some research but am open to suggestions.
Still broken, but much less despondent. Got my High Score on Twilight Zone while thinking through this. Thanks again all![quoted image]

Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Pin-Guy!! Dude, you are amazing.
Did that information come from a Service Release bulletin?? Because that is NOT in my STTNG Manual. And clearing the ball makes sense. On the other illustration ( I haven't got to look at it super close yet ) again, have NEVER seen this before.
Wow!!!
You ( and others ) make this page so great, thank you.
Eric

Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

ACTUALLY My CPU board is the ONLY board I have NOT replaced? Why, cause it either works, or it doesn't. Out of 15 machines I've worked on, if the machine is working, just make sure you are using the last, or most up to date Game Rom. In Star Trek NG is 7-L or 7-LX. It's required for Color DMD, and gives you some additional features..
People, the boards which you seriously need to spend bench time with, is the Power Driver Board, Not the CPU board. The power drive board has tons of things which time and abuse have up it through. The OPTO's and the next critical thing to do.
Before spending money on toys and toppers, make sure the machine is solid, electrically. Crunch down the socketed chips, reseat ALL, repeat, ALL the connectors multiple times to polish up the connections. Check the fuses to see if the are the CORRECT size, and there are any burned out ones.
OH, get the dam batteries OFF the CPU board, no exceptions. The would be the only benefit with the new board, the chip which stores the setup instead of a battery.
But the board is $200.
I have never replaced the side art, or a playfield insert. And the shields WILL need it sometime. I have them purchased, but intimidated as hell to do it.