(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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  • 10,379 posts
  • 555 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 hours ago by spidey
  • Topic is favorited by 355 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3743 4 years ago

Just bought the neutral zone cliffy but having a hard time getting it to "bite" and stay in place. When the ball hits the lip of the cliffy it slides back and the ball gets stuck in the hole. Very annoying. Anyone else have this issue and how did you fix it???? Thanks for any advice.

#3752 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Mine does this too - did yours include the 3M double sided tape to affix it to the playfield? Try bending the little arms that grab onto the underside

I tried bending the arms a little bit but it wasn't enough to prevent movement. Mine did not come with 3M tape...did yours? That may work if it doesn't raise up the lip at all to affect the ball??

4 weeks later
#3889 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Mine did not - but I added it, and there’s far less movement

Finally bought this tape and added it to the neutral zone cliffy. Hasn't budged....thank you!

3 weeks later
#4014 4 years ago

Wanted to share in case it helps anyone. I was having an intermittent issue with my cannons not finding home. Bought new wiring harnesses from Pinball Heaven and it fixed the problem. My STTNG is now fully bulletproof!!

#4043 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Interesting...I'm wondering is you had something else going on that you resolved as the cannon home switch is not part of the gun wiring harness. Perhaps a bad opto that was causing the gun to continually attempt to eject a phantom ball?

You're right actually. What it was doing is intermittently searching and firing the plunger as if a ball was present in the chamber. New wiring harness fixed that. However I will say I accidentally wired the optos lead backwards when installing the new harness and did get the cant find home error message on that cannon. Swapped the wires and went away. It's easy to accidentally mix up the wiring on left cannon versus right. Worth double checking to be sure someone before you didnt mess that up!

#4044 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Mine have been intermittent. Next time they start searching to start searching. To start a game I’ll do cannon test. Could flaky opto in the cannon. Cause a search back and forth ?

This is what mine did actually. The new harnesses fixed this. I'd recommend giving it a shot.

#4048 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

is the new harness for the optos or the switches underneath?
link to buy?

The new wiring harness connects the coil and the optos on each cannon to the connectors underneath the playfield. It's the bundle of wires wrapped in black tape. I bought mine from pinball heaven out of the UK. I just checked their website and do not see the harnesses listed. However you can E mail them via pin side messaging. pinballheavenuk

#4049 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Pin_Guy identified that my L cannon switches are wired backwards Been that way prob for 10+ years since I am fixing for a friend who prob never knew. Ill fix tonight...I should have seen it but had no idea what I a was looking for...But on the right cannon the opposite switch opens first.
Next is why the coil keeps firing to kick a ball out But one issue at a time.

The Issue you are having where the coil keeps trying to kick the ball out when there is no ball present is exactly what I had. After doing a bit of reading it seemed others who were having the same problem ended it up replacing that harness I'm talking about and the problem resolved. That is what happened to me as well. Apparently the wires inside the bundle get brittle and broken over time because of the movement of the Canon and the twisting.

#4051 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Hoping I can find the harness. I think my optos are the issue...I did look at the switch matrix in test last week and the grid showed only 2-2 closed. So afterI fix the switches Ill work on optos..

Here is the link to the harness for sale - https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/star-trek-tng/cannon-looms-for-star-trek-tng-h-17067/

1 month later
#4227 4 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Looks like I need a the 8 driver board....fixing this for a friend. I see the are only about $40 or so from vendors unless someone has one for sale cheaper...

Haven't checked in on this thread for a bit...sorry. did you find one? I'm pretty sure I have one brand new...I ordered it thinking I may need it but that was not my issue after all. Think I bought it from the guy on eBay but forget what i paid. Let me know.

8 months later
#4910 3 years ago

If anyone here is interested and in need-- just listed a few STTNG parts in the marketplace - new and unused Rottendog 8 driver board, Mantis mission start scoop, and alpha ramp guards.

10 months later
#6829 2 years ago

I am looking to join the club again at some point.. What is the going rate for an average player's machine that needs some work?

#6833 2 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

Will be hard to find under $5k I'd say right now.

I was thinking 4000-4500 for unshopped players condition (broken parts, no LEDs, needs work etc.) And maybe 5-6k for shopped and working. 6k+ for super nice or better.

Sound about right?

I sold a nice one a year and a half ago or so that had almost new everything...for 4500....and regret it.

#6837 2 years ago
Quoted from Lostcause:

I managed to get one earlier this year for £500 or $675 that was on eBay, I put an offer in the minute it was on there and got lucky. It was a nice one too.
Never say never!

Wow, nice find...enjoy!

#6844 2 years ago

Well, I'm back in the club! - found a player's machine and now making a list of parts I need to get it back in play - plus mods I want etc. If anyone out there has parts or mods for STTNG that they want to sell, let me know as I may be interested in buying them - I have a long list of stuff I need - cabinet parts and playfield parts.

Thanks!

#6847 2 years ago

Anyone have a good source for head decals ?

#6849 2 years ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

Anyone have a good source for head decals ?

found. thank you Ballypinball

#6854 2 years ago
Quoted from jazc4:

I'll look tonight. I am almost finished restoring my rescue STTNG and may have some stuff available.

Thank you!

#6893 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

If you haven't yet replaced the cannon wire looms, you should. They almost always break inside somewhere over the years.
You can get them in a set of 2

Where did you buy these looms? Is there somewhere in the US to get them? Thanks!

#6900 2 years ago

Thanks - I thought the same thing when I saw Marco's price! I went ahead and ordered from Pinball Heaven - https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/star-trek-tng/cannon-looms-for-star-trek-tng-h-17067/

Fair price and fair shipping to the US all things considered. I bought the looms from them a couple years ago and they were great - was just wondering if there was a Pinsider or another US based source making these. All good, and thanks. I'd recommend Pinball Heaven to anyone else looking for these and stumbling across this thread.

3 weeks later
#7052 2 years ago

Does anyone have an extra set of mantis ramp protectors and/or Cliffy catapult protector they want to sell? Thanks!

4 weeks later
#7181 2 years ago

All cleaned up and tons of new parts - plays like a top again - every mech cleaned + new coil sleeves, flipper rebuilds...ahhh like a new game.

Whew...I forgot how much stuff is on this game under the covers. Glad to be back playing!!

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1 month later
#7464 2 years ago

My eddy proximity sensor isn't working. LED on the board stays lit. Potentiometer adjustments don't turn it off. I see there is a guy in AUS selling the board. Just curious though...anyone figured out what is going wrong? Is it the pot going bad? Wondering if I can just repair this. I've ready about changing the R1 resistor...just curious if anyone knows. Otherwise I'll just buy a board. Thx!

#7466 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Have you looked over you board closely for any cracked solder connections? Broken leads on components? I had a bad board on mine and found a broken lead on the transistor on the board.

I've been staring at it...don't see any cracked solder or broken leads. Wish I did. Might just try reflowing it and see if that works.

#7473 2 years ago

Thx for the comments. This is a picture of my actual board below. It matches the other side and I believe is the earlier version of the eddy board used in earlier STTNG (pre- October 1993?). Which is why I can't buy the one from Pinball Life - that seems to be for the later schematic. Only option (other than repair) seems to be to buy the one from the guy in AUS but shipping is $40!

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#7482 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I probably missed it above, but did you try swapping it with the other eddy board to make sure it’s actually the board? Such a simple little board, I fixed mine last year just by re-flowing the headers and the ICs and working the pot around a bit.

I reflowed the board too....works again. Saved me $$ Thanks for everyone's comments.

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