I really like them. Do you have a picture of them in the Machine? I'm curious to see how the yellow color fits with the machines general color scheme.
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I really like them. Do you have a picture of them in the Machine? I'm curious to see how the yellow color fits with the machines general color scheme.
Bummer!! That feeling of seeing that last ball drain, missing out on big points, is just awful!!
But you'll get there! Never had it 2 times in one game myself...
I thought Cliffy had started shipping all of his protectors with 3M tape? I think i read that somewhere, but i could easily be wrong...
Pin_Guy - The help you offer on this forum is absolutely amazing!!!
Always extremely helpful (like so many others), but add to that the pictures, diagrams and in depth info, you just stand out. Really really awesome!!!
Thank you!
Agree, before touching anything else, measure the voltage on TP2 and write it down. And then measure the voltage at pin 32 on the game rom (U6) on the CPU board and write it down. Then come back and tell us the voltages. Of course you can also follow the (excellent) guide mentioned above.
I have had a couple of issues with the Z connector on both my IJ and STTNG. Have thought about eliminating the Z connector entirely, and soldering the wires together instead.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:A bad ribbon cable can also cause this issue as the LS576 driving the whole board expects its inputs to be a logic high or logic low level; Unfortunately the engineer that designed this board took no efforts to ensure these inputs could not "float" which would result in an unpredictable output from the flip-flops. There is a mod to this board to prevent an open input from burning stuff up
I encountered this problem twice before figuring out that it was actually the ribbon cable. I was sure i had a shorted transistor when the diverter locked on. Turned out to be the ribbon cable. So i will definately have too take a look at that proposed fix with the pull up resistors.
Quoted from Zolzar:I battled the dreaded coil lockup with the upper diverter over the past month. Here is what I did to correct the problem.
1. Tie back mod ( was actually already done but if it’s not done it should be)
2. Replaced Aux driver board
3. Replaced ribbon cable on Aux board
4. Added diodes to coils driven by aux board.
I had the same issue. Turned out to be a bad ribbon cable. The design is bad, because if one of the data lines loses connection, that triggers the coil to fire. So a bad connection or a bad ribbon cable can cause this.
I saw a fix for this at some point, but have been unable to find it. It involved adding pull-up (or down?) resistors to the datalines. Does anybody have a link?
Quoted from Manny65:It's in Pinwiki under game specific issues - it's after the tie-back fix (there's not a direct link to it)
Thank you! That was exactly what i was looking for. In my book that is nearly as important as the Tie-Back mod (which I already did, the correct way )
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