I did mine. Incandescent can melt plastic if stuck on, never has seen/heard of that with LED.

blockquote cite="#2890290">whats that sparkly ring inside surrounding the light bulb?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3069<;

LOL BD beat me

The coffee! Duh!

There are a few threads on tumbling, but quick tip, for walnut media, PETCO. They call it Lizard Bedding. Its cheaper and you get a lot more.

+1

Almost a must if the machine has never had them replaced. You can ohm/twisted/repin them and it may or may not chase away the gremlins, but my time is worth more than that.

LX-7 is the latest code. However there are 'tweeks' that can be made or found with some looking. BUT in the end Led OCD is better.

No. The Shields are part of general illumination, not controlled. For that you need to use a GI OCD or live with incandescent unfortunately.

It not ghosting you are seeing, it is the inability for the LED's to dim by just turning down the power like the GI is doing (and what incandescent can handle). You need some sort of PWM to handle the leds, of which the GI OCD does very well.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gi-ocd-active-smoothing-for-gi-work-in-progress

I've posted this a couple times, but too lazy to add a pointer to the thread, so here ya go.

My STTNG with GI OCD and LED OCD

And compared to ones without

Usually, when roms go bad, they go BAD and your dead.

Usually, if you boot and go into attract, your roms are fine.

My gut,,,, you bumped/broke the CPU - Driver cable when you did the upgrade. I'd start by powering off and checking there.

On my EATPM I PC'd the wireforms. No noticeable difference.

Insert decals? As far as any Sttng's I've seen, the 'hot dog' inserts were clear.

Sorry I meant clear as in 'no graphics'. I did not realize they had decals for the keylines.

Umm why? Did someone physically mount them wrong or were you manually moving them because they were not going home.

Either way, you should just be in tests and using the test to swing the cannons back and forth. If they do not swing back and forth in test, that is an issue (regardless of switches).

If they do move back and forth THEN you look at the switches. At starting position HOME should be closed then as you swing out HOME should open.

Then after home opens the other switch (I forget its name) should open/close as the cannon passes over it.

Step 1 can the cannons be told to move.
Step 2 does home open/close at the right spot.
Step 3 does the other switch open/close at the right spot.

Ok if step one is failing, is the coin door closed? Do other coils work fine?

May be time to look at prints if yes to both those questions. But not tonight, I'm dead tired.

All use 12v. You may just have a simple blown fuse and not a cannon issue.

Take a peek at the prints/manual and you will see were they get 12v from. Without looking I would assume its 12VDC Unregulated.

If it is blown and continues to blow, start disconnecting stuff that uses it like the Britelights. Then the motors to the cannons.