(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


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#5736 2 years ago

Back in the club, picked it up yesterday for £500/$700!!! Missing legs and back glass/translite.
Everything else there, cab and playfield good. Few glitches but got it all running in the end, need to strip it down and fit new ramps etc
Great to play this again and some nice new mods I see.
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#5743 2 years ago

The guy I bought it from put my faith back in the human race, it was in a shop that they had taken over. He knew what they sell for but excepted my offer 2 mins into the auction on eBay. I was expecting the worst if I’m honest but turned out well. He was offered more money after the auction but stuck with me.
We realised why it was left in the shop when they tried to get it out the door from a small side room in the shop, the door was not wide enough
So we went about taking down the stud type wall down and moved the door frame over, it was all done in laughter as they wanted to change that area anyway.

It’s getting a U6 checksum error so will get a new rom, tried reseating it but no joy.
It really plays nice and snappy.

Parts don’t seem expensive buying for this one

#5744 2 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Does anybody make the wider ball lane guides for this game? I have an annoying flipper hop. I am NOT looking for the extended guides. I want the original experience without the annoying hop.

You could try the slightly slimmer flipper rubbers, by Titan I think. That would help.

#5747 2 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Yeah I really just don't like Titan rubbers at all. They completely change the feel of a game. I'm more of a traditionalist, I suppose. I want to play the game as intended from the designer off the factory floor.
I'm not opposed to mods or whatever, but I personally only install them if they're aesthetic and do not affect gameplay.

I use traditional rubbers too.
I recently bought new lane guides from Cliffy for 3 of my machines due to the hop, maybe he does these too?
You could adjust like above but I found it can go back over time. Easy enough to redo if it does.

#5753 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Was this even a product?
Have no clue specifically what you are looking for... but for the right interest level; I can have some made if the design is understood.

Cliffy makes them, I have bought a few sets from him. They are slightly wider lane guides to compensate for the flipper rubber sticking out and making the ball hop as it rolls down from the guide onto the flipper.

#5767 2 years ago

I put lane extenders in the last one I had but side drains was still a bitch, was actually thinking of adding mini posts with rubbers which is what I put on my operation thunder as that had crazy side drains too and made the game much more enjoyable. Not having rubber on those outlanes is a killer.

#5782 2 years ago
Quoted from Kombi:

So today was my birthday, a big part why my wife got me the 2 pinballs. This is how we celebrated it. Eating birthday cake, drinking beers, playing pins with my wife, with the footy on the TV, would of been perfect if all 3 of my kids were with me instead of my just my youngest (oldest 2 live nearly 1000km away). And a big bonus is my flippers are all working perfect now.
[quoted image]

Happy birthday, drink beer play pinball

#5784 2 years ago
Quoted from Kombi:

Thanks mate, drinking plenty of beers and loved playing my pinballs with my wife.

Was doing the same thing with my wife last night but with no kids here for a change!
Just watching England trying to bowl out NZ, catch just not given out

#5786 2 years ago

Lasers, nice. Was thinking about getting them.

#5808 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Extreme Pinball Mods
Star Trek The Next Generation Pinball Synced Dual Menu Screens 3.0
I have been getting questions concerning the content of the menu screens, on the Star Trek Next Generation pinball. This is close to the final version, with the screens synchronized and many other improvements. Here is the LEFT and RIGHT screens as they appear in the bottom corners of the machine.

Very nice, reminds me of the Amiga demo days. Imagine that on lsd

#5852 2 years ago

Was having trouble with my trough, one of the opto’s was activated when it shouldn’t have been, turns out one of the transmitters was faulty. The receiver picked up infrared from the sun and made life easy.
Have stripped the playfield for a clean up and have flame polished the ramps, adding protectors. Stripped the canons as they were corroded and tumbled them, came out pretty good. Waiting for new looms to arrive. Taking my time on this.
Should have a custom proper back glass arriving this week, bought machine without one and never really liked the original so was a good time to get one I liked.

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#5856 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Has anyone reproduced the cannon wiring harnesses using the super flexible noodle wires? I can see that in one of the cannons a couple wires were abandoned in the harness and a couple individual replacement wires run. At some point I'll want to install fresh sets but since it moves so much they should be made with the super flexible wires. If no one is making them then I may just build my own set.

Pinball Heaven in the UK make them with a lifetime guarantee if installed as per their instructions, waiting for mine to arrive so not sure what cables are used.

#5871 2 years ago

My new back glass arrived today, bought the machine with no translite or glass. Never liked the original translite so was a good opportunity to fit a proper back glass and new design which looks great, to me anyway. Goes full width so no trim needed on the sides.

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#5876 2 years ago
Quoted from harig:

Nice collection of unsmartphones

I loved my old Siemens mobiles, was either throw them all away or hot glue them to the wall in the garage lol

#5925 2 years ago

I had Pinsound plus and speakers in my last STTNG and I never thought the sound quality was good enough, I have had a few others with Pinsound and they have sounded great. Tried all the sound packages and all the tone settings, speech was also too low. I often wondered if they sent me some duff sounding speakers.
Going to just add some speakers and maybe connect up to my pinnovators mixer running a 400w 15”sub

#5945 2 years ago

I’ve used lane extenders on a previous STTNG but found it only helped slightly, saw this the other day done by a well known parts seller here and thought that will work. Only downside would be the ball would disappear under the plastic a bit but you can’t really see that side anyway.

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2 weeks later
#6079 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Have any of you tried using one of the latest Tilt Audio boards? It looks like there is an altsound set available for STTNG:
http://altsound.vpin24.com/
I have an older board that I was using for another game butthe latest version is supposed to work well with the later WPC games. For the price it may be worth trying it out.

I only here people moaning about those boards here, as soon as a new version comes out he releases another.
I had pinsound in my last STTNG but my latest one is staying standard and I’m happy with that.

#6080 2 years ago

Finally it’s all working, new cannon looms were fitted as had breaks but turns out I had an opto problem as well. Fitted a pair of new opto’s in the left cannon and now it’s all working great, very fast and smooth. Was worth all the effort of stripping down. Just need to stick on the new side rails.

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1 week later
#6229 2 years ago

I have an issue with both right flippers, on hold/up I can push them down too easily. A fast ball can push it down a bit then it fires back up or it drops halfway ish maybe, the left flipper is good and cannot be push back easily. Holds strong. It did this before I rebuilt the flippers and thought that would fix but it hasn’t, eos switches gapped good and clean. Flippers mechs as they should be, flipper opto’s cleaned. It’s both right flippers so guessing it’s not the actual flippers but down the line somewhere, I have pulled related connections off and on.
Any ideas as this is the last fault, still plays great until a fast ball hits hard especially in multi ball.
Thanks.

#6231 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Is the connector on power board In back box burnt?

No, only the GI connector is different. Probably had got hot previously and replaced. All look good.
Somebody had the same issue on a search and they changed both coils which cured it, coils rarely go wrong. Worth putting another coil in I guess. Maybe even a new ribbon cable as that gave me week flippers on my TZ.

#6233 2 years ago

Just to add to my flipper hold issue. In test the left flipper power and hold is good but the right flippers only power works in test not hold for both.

#6237 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I have no proof other than a hunch. It sounds like your right flipper solenoid is FL-17636 and your left flipper solenoid is FL-11629 (or perhaps FL-11630).
The FL-17636 has a strong "power" stroke but very weak "hold" power. I think the power resistance is ~4.5 Ohms and the hold resistance is ~300 Ohms. The FL-11629 has a strong "power" stroke and good "hold" power. I think the power resistance is ~4 Ohms and the hold resistances is ~150 Ohms. This is the reason why I removed my FL-17636 solenoids and replaced them with FL-11629 solenoids.
You can either post images of the flipper solenoids (assuming the flipper solenoid wrapper is correct) or more precisely measure the resistance to be sure of the flipper solenoid that is actually installed.

Yes that is what I have with the readings you have given me, it’s been driving me mad and makes sense with the high hold resistance!
Thanks for your advice and taking time out, this is an easy solution that makes total sense. I have read so many people with the same issue and now I know why. I will replace them and report back.
Thank you.

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#6263 2 years ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

Thanks - Yeah, its just the Alpha ramp protectors I am struggling with. The rest are self explanatory

I fitted these not long ago, the Alpha’s just bolt to the front posts then I made new holes at the back on the ramp and added double sided tape. Pretty straight forward, added double sided tape to other ramps too. Ship is in the way to take a pic, did try.

#6270 2 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

I have no proof other than a hunch. It sounds like your right flipper solenoid is FL-17636 and your left flipper solenoid is FL-11629 (or perhaps FL-11630).
The FL-17636 has a strong "power" stroke but very weak "hold" power. I think the power resistance is ~4.5 Ohms and the hold resistance is ~300 Ohms. The FL-11629 has a strong "power" stroke and good "hold" power. I think the power resistance is ~4 Ohms and the hold resistances is ~150 Ohms. This is the reason why I removed my FL-17636 solenoids and replaced them with FL-11629 solenoids.
You can either post images of the flipper solenoids (assuming the flipper solenoid wrapper is correct) or more precisely measure the resistance to be sure of the flipper solenoid that is actually installed.

Had a FL-11629 coil spare so fitted it to the lower right flipper and the hold is now good, upper right is still making shots ok but will probably change that too with my next order for parts as it will give it a bit more strength at the end.
Thanks for the tip.

1 week later
#6360 2 years ago

Finally finished shopping mine, bought it a couple of months ago off eBay really cheap. Flame polished ramps and added protectors, look new now. Stripped cannons down and tumbled them and fitted new looms. Cleaned subway and opto’s. New posts, rubbers, cleaned and waxed playfield. All metal tumbled or hand polished. Added LED’s and Afterglow board which is like ledocd. New side rails and glass runners, new low reflective glass, original cab was good so left. New black legs. All boards good. Added custom proper back glass.
This one plays much better than my last one and looks great. Very happy with it

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#6362 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Looks nice but it really needs a ColorDMD!

I put one in my last one and my others have them fitted but to be honest I think I will be leaving the old plasma one in for a while and see how it goes, they cost £420 or $585 US around here these days! Yeah they are pretty nice though.

#6371 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Actually for me personally I think a Pinsound with the real high quality music from the series brings more to the game than the color display.

I fitted pinsound in my old one too but I only paid £500 for this pin so I just can’t do it lol
Think I might connect it up to my 15” sub that some of my other pins share though.

#6372 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

You may want to look into the PIN2DMD as an alternative solution since I think Star Trek is one of the machines that the colorization is complete. Going to be installing one in my STTNG and have one in my ID4 which looks amazing. My get an actual ColorDMD for my Dr Who since that is the only one that seems to have full colorization for that title.

Yes that’s the other option I was thinking about, I fitted one in a WCS and did the job nicely.

#6402 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:STTNG Legs.... originally black? Or chrome?
Mine are black but saw pictures both ways so not sure.

Yes black, just fitted a new set of black legs to mine. Although metallic black would look even better.

1 month later
#6614 2 years ago
Quoted from Redwizard000:

The LEDOCD seems to be working well. The flickers are all gone. And I never realized how much I missed that fade effect that incandescent have.

One of the games that really benefits from LEDOCD or what I have Aftergow board, most WPC games with leds look wrong without them to me.

3 weeks later
#6722 2 years ago
Quoted from oradke:

You don‘t have to like it, you certainly don‘t have to do it on your own machine. I personally wouldn‘t want it either, but I have a lot of respect for the quality of the work he has done. If he likes it and it makes him happy - great. If he makes some others happy as well - even better.

Totally agree, not good pissing on peoples fire.

#6727 2 years ago

It’s good to be nice, I hate negativity it just puts a downer on things. Best just to think it sometimes, not everyone is thick skinned.

#6733 2 years ago

I’m waiting for an extra large pin2dmd and custom speaker panel for my STTNG
Blast away

#6743 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

Oh I forgot about that project. Curious to see how it turns out. Was it tricky to figure out the parts needed?

Davey is making the kits from pinfo, only thing not so good is it has to use 3” speakers due to the screen size but I’m just going to add an 8” sub with filter and level control so should sound ok. Should look pretty good on this pin.

1 week later
#6786 2 years ago
Quoted from slippifishi:

Shameless self plug for the PIN2DMD project I created for STTNG; I went all out and matched up the Okuda palette from the TV series on the LCARS screens and they really looks the part; lots of dithering throughout too which looks gorgeous on LED panels. TNG is such an important franchise so I was careful to do as good a job as I could - files are freely available at VPU!
I haven't ruled out doing a 64 colour update in future either...

I will be fitting the large pin2dmd to my STTNG soon hopefully, a 64 colour update would be very cool for that but great that you did this pin.
Looking forward to seeing your work as the last one I had I fitted an lcd colordmd.

#6789 2 years ago
Quoted from mappy24:

FYI, I replaced the plunger, sleeve, spring etc. but the problem has started again, the plunger is magnetised and keeps sticking to the bracket.
I've got a demagnetizer on my Amazon Wishlist but in the meatime I've just gone back to plan A and fitted little bits of stick foam that my wife had in her craft drawer to prevent the plunger coming into contact with the bracket. Working great so far!
The only other problem I'm having at the moment is with the popper that feeds the left cannon, occasionally the ball will fail to make it out and fall back down again causing the machine to search endlessly. I think I'm correct in saying that coils generally don't go bad so I'm considering replacing the sleeve, spring, plunger again, unless there's anything else I can do? I can't see how optos would come into this one, unless there's an opto to detect a ball in the plunger and it's not being detected?[quoted image][quoted image]

Could it be sticking in that circular groove it has created?

1 week later
#6823 2 years ago

Just received this today, 256x64 HD screen with custom speaker panel. Waiting on a power supply before I fit to make sure it’s got enough juice as I think the pin will complain.

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#6825 2 years ago
Quoted from horseflesh:

Normally I don't like any mods that replace original artwork but that display panel looks great and so does the translite.
Will the display just be scaled up or is there hi res art available for Pin2DMD STTNG?
(Man, I wish I could just *buy* a Pin2DMD instead of making one or hunting for a group buy.)

I like keeping things mainly original too but this speaker panel looked really good and the real backglass is a big improvement to me as I really didn’t like the original.
I’m the first person to get the STTNG panel, no hi res unfortunately so it will be upscaled. Watch this space as I will put a video up when it’s running, also got an 8” sub to fit in the cab to help reinforce the sound but apparently those little speakers sound good.

#6828 2 years ago
Quoted from slippifishi:

I messed around in the editor and tried a few scenes from the project to see how they look in HD mode; I think for the most part the upscaler will do OK and be acceptable, though there are one or two bits of LCARS text that don't scale like I would want - there are one or two single pixels which are sometimes misaligned by one dot; these stand out like a sore thumb when viewing the scenes in the editor and on-screen, but perhaps on-panel this won't be so obvious - it really is just 1 dot.
I already checked with lucky in relation to this and there is a built in setting on the PIN2DMD menu for setting the scaler, so might be worth toggling that once you are up and running and see which one looks best for you.
EDIT: Don't forget to try the tilt.

I’m sure it will be great mate, appreciate people like you doing these. Will be in touch once it’s all running so you can have a drink on me

#6836 2 years ago
Quoted from PinHigh1:

I was thinking 4000-4500 for unshopped players condition (broken parts, no LEDs, needs work etc.) And maybe 5-6k for shopped and working. 6k+ for super nice or better.
Sound about right?
I sold a nice one a year and a half ago or so that had almost new everything...for 4500....and regret it.

I managed to get one earlier this year for £500 or $675 that was on eBay, I put an offer in the minute it was on there and got lucky. It was a nice one too.
Never say never!

10
#6856 2 years ago

Fitted my XL HD pin2dmd screen and custom speaker panel yesterday, looks amazing in the flesh. Video does not do it justice unfortunately.
I fitted a 12v 10amp power supply to run it, needs about 5amp.
Thanks to stumblor who sells the kits and slippifishi for the colourisation.
Action from about 5:45 on.

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#6859 2 years ago
Quoted from slippifishi:

Minor typo, it is actually stumblor for the displays. The colour files are available on VPUniverse (https://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/5517-star-trek-the-next-generation-real-pin/) or if you drop me a message I can send them through.

Oh crap it is, oops. Yes stumblor.

#6860 2 years ago
Quoted from dantebean:

That is amazing. We contact Stumbler for the DMD and customer speaker panel and slippifishi for the color coding?

Sorry it’s stumblor.

#6886 2 years ago

Wired a 12v 10amp power supply to the incoming switch wires in the metal box, just stripped them back a bit and soldered on them taped up.
Hard wired no service outlet as it was just blanked off so put the cable through the blanking plate.

Only used for the XL pin2dmd display but someone else can add mods in the future if they like easily.
Was going to add LED’s underneath/behind the cab but fitted them around the door of my pin room instead.
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2 weeks later
#7001 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

With all of the balls out of the machine this is the switch test diagram
[quoted image]

That shows each opto is unblocked/no ball. Go to one opto at a time and put your finger or something between the emitter/receiver, in test the square should disappear from the grid relating to that one. Try the cannons first and you will see how it works, if it doesn’t see any there is an issue. Check all the shaded in switches (opto’s) on the pic of the switch matrix which you put a few posts above.

#7005 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Yeah I think everything is okay. Just the right cannon not firing correctly which I think is the cannon loom . Unless someone can advise me on another solution.

I thought it was the loom on one of my cannons but it was a faulty opto, I recently stripped my playfield and cannons right down to parts and tumbled them and put in new cannon looms in while I was there. Intermittent opto on one cannon but the other it was a broken wire on the loom.
So while I thought it was the loom as the opto seemed to test ok it was actually the opto with intermittent fault.

#7011 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Thinking about picking up a nice STNG this weekend. Just wondering if there any obvious things I should be looking for while checking out the game? Seller claims that she works as she should. Any advice is much appreciated

If it has a credit dot,check what it is for.
Check drop down target at back works ok and ask if it has had the tie back mod which could cause damage if not done. Not hard to do if not.
Go in settings and remove balls then turn off. Put balls back in and turn on, should load balls in trough and stage 3 balls to vuk’s without issue.
Check cannons work ok in game.
Plus the usual stuff, ramps get cracked and not cheap to replace and GI connectors get burnt including the one under the playfield for the shields as just had to change mine (brown/white & brown wires 3 way connector)
Good luck.

#7013 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

But they are available. I have a new set waiting for installation

I know I nearly ordered a set, I flame polished mine and fitted mantis protectors and saved quite a bit and they look new now.
Better the money in my pocket.

#7015 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Awesome...thank you....STNG is such a fun pin (and still rated high) I'm curious why they are so reasonably priced compared to other games?

Theme I guess, I’m not a fan. But for a totally loaded machine with actors call-outs I just don’t know as it’s a pretty good game.
I hate the back glass so bought a custom one and fitted a XL Color led screen which looks awseome on this pin.
They do go wrong and can confuse people so this might also be the reason but once you understand how it all works it’s not too bad.

#7017 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

You would think people would love the theme? In my experience with these B/W games that improving the sound (i.e. pin sound board) and adding color improves the experience...I did this on my IJ and it was night and day

Well I’m in my early 50’s and not into the theme at all, never watched it as I was working too hard when it was out. Tried watching but not my thing.
I had pin sound in my last STTNG and was never really happy with it, just didn’t sound right to me and call outs too quite. I did have it in my IJ and really liked it in that one, same as a few others I’ve had.

I like the sound as is on this one, other people love pinsound on this though.

My STTNG

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#7019 2 years ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Looks great...love the XL screen and back glass....so u didn't see a big sound quality improvement with the PinSound board? It was a massive difference on my IJ

It was better sound quality but on mine I just couldn’t dial it in to my liking, I’m fussy with sound and wether it was the pinsound speakers or board it just wasn’t crisp enough for me, the sub was ok though. It did annoy me as all the others I had sounded great.

#7022 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It has a really bad reputation for reliability and difficulty of troubleshooting. Luckily mine has been very, very reliable since I did all the bulletproofing stuff when I got it fresh out of a re-import container nearly 20 years ago. The theme itself is just okay with me but the theme integration is off the charts great!

Best way to be and with the XL screen it’s even better!

1 week later
#7069 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

I eventually retrieved the balls. Game fires up and almost plays as it should. It just takes ages for the habitrail drop chute to operate. The game does a ball search whenever a mission starts. I don't know what to look for on the the left under opto switches 2,3 and 4.
My hunch is that it could all be related to the connectors when I had my accident with the wire looms.

Maybe the diverter in the subway is playing up, remove all balls then turn the power off. Put all the balls back in and power up and it should feed the trough then stage 3 balls for the 2 cannons and the vuk that feeds left flipper from wire ramp.

#7071 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

WOW! Everything is now working as it should. Thanks to everyone who has offered advice on this.
The problem was, believe it or not and I know you will believe it, was the small coil on the top drop target (at the bottom of the playfield when it is upside down) and the actuator switch in that assembly.
The coil was very loose and it is held on to the assembly with one machine screw.
I tightened the screw and looked up the actuator assembly in the manual and it was not hitting the switch. It did not need a huge amount of adjustment but it had to be moved.
I have said it before and will again. Sometimes it is very simple things that cause major issues on these pins.
Thanks again.

Great, bet you feel really good about that!

#7073 2 years ago

To be honest it’s good to get to know your pin early on and understand how things work and the consequences of things that are not right.
Sometimes it can be a blessing in disguise when you get a problem or two if you are confident getting stuck in.
Now enjoy the game

1 week later
#7091 2 years ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Pin start up indicates LX-5 code. Is this correct?
According to IPDB it is the last on the list and I am assuming that the list is chronological from top to bottom.

Think I have LX-7 on mine.

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