(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • 10,264 posts
  • 552 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by jibmums
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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4635 3 years ago

Hey all. I posted an issue in the Tech section, but wanted to throw the question here too. I just brought home my TNG but I am not getting power to flipper optics. The error is check switch F2-F6. I tried the usual things, the post is below. I’ve been at this all day and am stumped. Thanks for any insight.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tng-flipper-buttons-not-working-check-switch-f2-f6#post-5896538

#4654 3 years ago

Quick question, I have a game that’s randomly throwing switch errors. Looking at the switch the contacts are good. Going into the test menu, the switch registers fine, but the error doesn’t go away unless I factory rest. Always a different switch.

Why would the factory reset only clear it, and are there any suggestions you guys have? Latest code, btw.

Thanks as always.

2 weeks later
#4706 3 years ago

Sorry for the silly question. Does anyone have a photo of the optimum flipper placements. My left is shooting to the left too much, but would like to see others before I adjust.

#4708 3 years ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

Use the alignment holes - they will get you good results.

completely do not know. So appreciate the patience. I’ve read those are just rough guides, is that not the case? Would someone please post a photo of how one is? I’ve read top of the flipper lining up, bottom and middle. Thanks everyone

#4711 3 years ago
Quoted from bbulkley:

On these Williams machines, I use a toothpick in the hole under (ie on the low side not underneath) the flipper pressed down to meet it (without a rubber on the flipper). That should align the flipper so it’s drooping a hair under the line from the inlane. Some prefer the flipper to be perfectly aligned with the inlane, but it’s just personal preference. A tiny amount of drop guarantees the ball will always roll smoothly and is how they were set at the factory (as far as I know).

Thanks both of you. Buy yourself a beer, on me.

2 weeks later
#4746 3 years ago

Does anyone have a good scan of the default translite picture? I'd like to photoshop my kids into it and hang it in their room. They've actually gotten pretty good at the game (3 and 6) and i know they'd love it. The only ones I've found are medium resolution at best.

thanks!

4 weeks later
#4840 3 years ago

I'd actually love to know if the rottendogs provide a little more 12v power than the stock. Anyone?

#4847 3 years ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

I'm not a fan of Rottendog boards, even though I'm running one right now. They are gone now so future support is gone as well, mine had to go back twice for issues that were manufacturing related.
Not sure what the feedback is on these guys, but they are licensed replacements.
https://pinballbasement.com/collections/wpc89-boards

You know I saw that, but those aren’t new boards add those? Just looking at all the options.

#4850 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Here's a couple I put together ,but he sells them completed too...and he does have a power driver board
[quoted image]

Well thank you sir!

#4852 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

reach out to dumass ...he makes replacement boards with all socketed IC's with some other improvements as well...but he may be backed up a bit...

Name didn’t come up on search. Do you have a link? I’d be interested. Thanks again!

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
1 week later
#4893 3 years ago

Does anyone know if there is a way to lower the back box lighting behind the translite? I get so much reflection on the glass it’s crazy. The original bulbs were replaced with LEDs. I’m even happy to use lower wattage bulbs if that helps.

2 months later
#5289 3 years ago

Hey all, thanks for all the suggestion and help so far.

Quick question. about 85% of the time after firing the left cannon, I notice the light on top is still blinking, like it thinks it has a ball in there, but it is resting at it's home position. I hit the trigger and it fires. Not sure what's up and if it does think there is still a ball loaded, why doesn't it start to move? (Not sure if the two are correlated). Any ideas?

Thanks!

#5300 3 years ago

Just tripped checked and yes indeed it is finding home/detecting the ball and finding the mark spot correctly. The odd thing is it just does it the once after the initial firing. If there was an issue with a sensor or switch, wouldn't it happen more randomly?

Any ideas? Thanks as always!

Quoted from Jherre6:

Hey all, thanks for all the suggestion and help so far.
Quick question. about 85% of the time after firing the left cannon, I notice the light on top is still blinking, like it thinks it has a ball in there, but it is resting at it's home position. I hit the trigger and it fires. Not sure what's up and if it does think there is still a ball loaded, why doesn't it start to move? (Not sure if the two are correlated). Any ideas?
Thanks!

2 weeks later
#5382 3 years ago

Does anyone know the machine screw size for the top of the cannons? My 2 year old wanted to help the other day and walked off with them. I’m still looking!

#5384 3 years ago

Thanks man!

Quoted from jadziedzic:

#6-32x5/16" round washer head machine screw was there originally; they're a bit hard to find outside of a well-stocked hardware store. A #6-32x3/8" round head machine screw with a flat washer will work fine. If you're ordering stuff from Marco look for 4006-01027-06, the 3/8" long version of the original round washer head screw.

3 months later
#5796 2 years ago

What’s the closest you can come to a NOS translite? I was planning on going to a convention this year and getting Rikers signature. Mine is ok, just really dirty on the back.

3 weeks later
#5970 2 years ago

Can you link to Micks lights? These look really neat. Not sure where to get them.

Thanks!

Quoted from Xtraball:

I’ve been wanting to come up with a way to liven up the Enterprise’s engine lites on the playfield. Just having a stagnant lit bulb for each engine just doesn’t cut it. I tried Comet’s Fire bulbs but they don’t look good because the socket is flat and the bulb’s effects aren’t seen. I just installed Mick’s engine lites and they’re perfect! I wish I could post a video but I can’t. Here’s a pic of them but it really doesn’t show the effect. I’ve also been on the fence about his laser canon mod thinking they’d look great but make the shots too easy. Well I figured the game kicks my butt as it is, might as well do the laser mod anyway. I must be a real crappy player cuz these lasers haven’t helped me one bit, but I at least the game looks better! I think both of these mods are perfect for this game, not over the top and easily reversible if desired. Thanks for hooking me up Mick![quoted image]

2 weeks later
#6165 2 years ago

This piece of plastic broke on my side bumper. Would anyone know what it's called and where to get it? I assume I just need that one piece? Thanks all!!!!

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2 months later
#6690 2 years ago

What settings is everyone using for their GI and LED OCD boards?

I’d be curious to see how others have theirs configured.

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