(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 22 hours ago by Beinsi
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Topic index (key posts)

7 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2194 Fix for low 12V voltage and slow cannons. Linked to ColorDMD Install. Posted by mavantix (6 years ago)

Post #2578 Hallmark Romulan Warbird modification Posted by Pin_Guy (5 years ago)

Post #2659 canon gearbox; detail photos of innards Posted by scooter8416 (5 years ago)

Post #4774 Tubing used for ends of flipper return lanes. Posted by Gogojohnnyquack (3 years ago)

Post #8277 Disable Officer's Club from the high scores in attract mode. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)

Post #8653 LX-8 ROM Release with link and description. Posted by ingo333 (1 year ago)


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#1664 6 years ago

Just saying howdy. Got my STTNG a couple months back. Having an issue with the left cannon I haven't been able to figure out yet, but otherwise happy so far.

#1666 6 years ago

The left cannon just randomly detects a ball that isn't there. Usually takse a game or two, and often time happens after the cannon has legitimately been loaded and fired. The cannon starts spinning and plunging, and the game stops whatever else I'm doing.

Someone previously did a hack job on the 4 pin molex, which I replaced, but the problem still happens. Been looking for loose wires or anything like that, but no luck, and I can't get it to happen in test (the opto triggers 100% correctly, the solenoids fire correctly, and the cannon test behaves flawlessly).

#1669 6 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

This could also be due to a cannon harness that is starting to fail. If the ball-in-cannon opto wire breaks contact the game will think there's a ball loaded. You could try removing the one screw that attaches the motor to the bottom of the cannon post (under the playfield) and then while in switch test manually move the cannon back and forth to see if the opto opens (normally closed) at some point.
If it does, you need a new wiring harness for the cannon (or you can repair the one you've got).

Is there more than the 4 pin molex that I already replaced?

I'll give this a shot tomorrow. I've got NWPAS today.

#1673 6 years ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I never bother replacing the plugs/pins I just cut out the middle section of the harness where the wires get weak from the constant movement and splice in fresh wires. That way I still have the original wire colors/patterns on both ends of the harness for reference with the schematics, etc.

I didn't have much choice. A previous hack job filled the connector with solder, burning the wire to the point it snapped when I looked at it too hard.

1 week later
#1693 6 years ago

That is what's happening on the right plunger, but the left plunger is retracting just fine. I haven't had a chance to dig in lately (busy with work and that darn family ).

Got a pinball tech coming by tonight, so we should be able to work it all out.

#1700 6 years ago

Finally found a bad splice job on the left cannon. Also cleaned the plungers and replaced the sleeves. Looks good so far and will play a bunch this weekend to be sure.

1 month later
#1802 6 years ago

I've got one problematic wire in my left cannon harness. It's been spliced a couple times close to the cannon, but it keeps becoming a problem after only a couple games.

I'm going to just replace the whole wire with a bunch of slack and put the splice as far from the cannon as I can easily get it.

Should I use any kind of special (flexible) wire, or will standard old small gauge copper be fine?

I'm hoping to avoid replacing the whole harness (I'm not great with a soldering iron), but can if that's the right call.

#1804 6 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I would use 22AWG stranded wire; try to avoid buying wire that uses a pvc insulator as the insulator will shrink and melt as you heat the wires while soldering.

I think that's what I've got. I'll have to double check, but that's easy to pick up either way.

Thanks

1 month later
#1862 6 years ago

I had this problem for a while. For me it was a couple bad solder points inside the cannon, and a couple frayed wires under the playfield.

2 months later
#2002 6 years ago

I’ve been thinking about listing mine. Couple newer machines I need to finance. I’ll try to post an ad this weekend. I prefer dealing locally, but would consider shipping for the right deal.

1 week later
#2009 6 years ago

I've been investigating some issues with my flashers. Turns out, somewhere along the line, the power board connections got put on the wrong pins. Got that fixed up, and now the playfield flashers are working, but not the backboard ones. Confirmed that J106-5 is providing 20V, and that the line is providing 20V at the flashers themselves. Also confirmed that all fuses have continuity, so I don't think it's a blown fuse.

There are three different drive connections for the back box flashers, on two different boards, so it seems unlikely that all three spontaneously went bad. I'm a little worried that the connectors being on the wrong pins might have blown all the flashers in the back box, so I'll try swapping a flasher or two out to see if that solves the issue.

Can anybody think of other likely possibilities that I'm missing?

#2010 6 years ago

Never mind. That was it (all the flashers blown). According to schematics, the pins the connector was on is N/C, but clearly there's some charge, and it ruined those flashers. But it's fixed now.

#2011 6 years ago

Now that I've gotten the flashers straightened out, I've listed the machine for sale.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/58244

Let me know if you have any questions

1 week later
#2043 6 years ago

Just left the club, trading for an MMR LE. Enjoy your awesome pins.

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