Presumably it implements the change made in later boards (included in machines Road Show and later).

proximity_sensor.jpg

I have (currently untested) bare reproduction boards that implement A-18543 (which is compatible with A-16922).

This.

And this.

I see a lot of impatience for FREE advice. You can exercise your impatience if you pay for it. IMHO: If it's free you have no right to complain.

Here is what I did. I fixed (replaced) the left harness on one side to get the machine to a baseline where it was 100% working.

01_sttng_harness_replaced.jpg02_sttng_harness_original.jpg03_sttng_harness_under_playfield.jpg

I'm pretty sure this is the original harness and it has been previously repaired. I understand that this is common which is why I just rebuilt the whole thing and added extra protection with the use of the tubing. I got the tubing from a home improvement store.

04_sttng_harness_removed.jpg

Then I rebuilt the entire machine. Stripped the playfield, cleared it and cleaned EVERY part of the machine. Except for the cabinet it was completely restored. It is the most hated machine (drain monster). My buddy and I wanted to put a secret camera to record all the profanity uttered from people who played the game. I have since changed the FL-17636 back to FL-11629. I did not like the performance of the FL-17636.

05_sttng_rebuilt_top.jpg06_sttng_rebuilt_bottom.jpg

I have no proof other than a hunch. It sounds like your right flipper solenoid is FL-17636 and your left flipper solenoid is FL-11629 (or perhaps FL-11630).

The FL-17636 has a strong "power" stroke but very weak "hold" power. I think the power resistance is ~4.5 Ohms and the hold resistance is ~300 Ohms. The FL-11629 has a strong "power" stroke and good "hold" power. I think the power resistance is ~4 Ohms and the hold resistances is ~150 Ohms. This is the reason why I removed my FL-17636 solenoids and replaced them with FL-11629 solenoids.

You can either post images of the flipper solenoids (assuming the flipper solenoid wrapper is correct) or more precisely measure the resistance to be sure of the flipper solenoid that is actually installed.

Correction: The DMC is powered by +12VU (unregulated from J116/J117/J118) not by +12VR (regulated from J114).

Is it possible to do a simple static check for continuity to ground? Not sure if that would be a valid test.

IMHO: Visual inspection is inadequate when it comes to assessing electronics ... unless you have electron vision. Superman had x-ray vision but not electron vision. I wonder what the world would like look in electron vision.

sttng_solenoid_flasher_location.jpg

Check the wire colors. The wire colors will tell you exactly what you are dealing with.

Bear in mind that there are two switch column headers on the CPU board. They are J206 and J207. The header at J212 is for the cabinet and also has connections for switch column 1 and 2. There are two separate column 2 wires that leave the CPU board. One at J206 or J207 that goes to the playfield and the other at J212 that goes to the coin door interface in the cabinet. This is why the cabinet switches work but the playfield ones do not. It indicates that there's probably nothing wrong on the CPU board and the problem is in the playfield. Of course ... not having done any further investigation and only with briefly reading the information provided this may not be a correct assessment.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

Consider checking the DC voltage output and AC voltage ripple coming out of the Fliptronic-II board. If half of the bridge rectifier has failed (half wave rectification) you could conceivably get enough voltage for a somewhat decent power stroke but not enough for a strong power stroke. Expect some AC ripple. The amount will depend on whether your Fliptronic-II board has the 100uF@100V capacitor installed. That was initially installed when the board was released but Williams cut costs and removed this capacitor during the usage life cycle. In all likelihood the board does NOT have one installed.

You can also check the resistance of the solenoids to make sure they are within specification. The correct resistance will depend on the flipper solenoid you have installed. It should be either a FL-17636 or FL-11629.

You will find lots of differing opinions on this kind of topic. Most everything is opinion. Not fact. Even this is an opinion. Do you own research. Ask questions if you're unsure about pros and cons. This advice also applies to board work - such as replacing the headers. If the connector (housing) and wires are burned then that is something that obviously needs replacing. Wholesale "preventative" replacement may not be necessary.

If you're going to do the work yourself make sure you're comfortable with figuring out problems should they arise. Otherwise I would recommend "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Many people do more harm to their machines by doing "preventative" work.

I don't know your experience and skill level. If you attempt to do something beyond your experience level and you make a mistake you will be asking for help or asking for a technician to do a home visit and this can get expensive. I also realize that with learning to fix your own problems you have to start somewhere.

This is my opinion. Not fact. It is based on my experience having to clean up and fix other people's introduced mistakes.

You could find something similar in any WPC-89 machine. The problems here are not confined to STTNG.

There is no such thing as "normal jumpers suggested to install". The "normal" board has NO JUMPERS. Jumpers are an indication that someone who worked on the board (and probably should not have worked on the board) pulled through holes. It amazes me that it looks like 1/3 - 1/2 (33%-50%) of the through holes were pulled by the technician doing that work.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Early_WPC_Transformers_.289_pin_connection.29

The connector doing the primary winding input voltage selection is the one connected to orange/brown/black/white wire bundle. It is difficult to tell due to the image angle but it is possible that you have a low line voltage selection. The following arithmetic should be able to confirm this.

1. Ratio of nominal 120VAC to 100VAC is 1.2
2. Nominal (RMS) output from solenoid secondary winding is 70VDC
3. Applying primary winding ratio difference is 70VDC * 1.2 = 84VDC
4. Nominal (RMS) output from lamp matrix secondary winding is 18VDC
5. Applying primary winding ratio difference is 18VDC * 1.2 = 21.6VDC

Seems possible. Use the Pinwiki as a guide to correct primary winding input voltage selection or if you are unsure then post additional images from different angles of the connect. The important one is the "head on" image (like shown in the Pinwiki) so that a proper assessment can be made.

The STTNG manual lists A-16922 as the proximity sensor board. I have seen STTNG machines with A-18543-1 and A-18543-2 instead. Presumably either Williams switched to A-18543-1 during production or some operator installed the A-18543-1 or A-18543-2 to keep the machine running.

Note that there are value differences between the components on A-18543-1 and A-18543-2 and they cannot be directly interchanged.

01_A-16922.jpg
02_A-18543-1.jpg
03_A-18543-1.jpg

What's with the breadboard and the 2W resistors?

This is strictly not correct. The small (third) VIO-GRN wire attached to one of the lugs of the solenoid on the assembly is factory. The "Tie Back Mod" is described in the PinWiki.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail

I have a small set of boards that provide an easily reversible solution for those that may not want to modify their original connectors and wiring. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/13#post-6637329 for more information.

I don't believe this is correct. It has been a long time since I spent any time on this machine. I seem to recall that it loads the balls in the following order:

1. Left cannon staging
2. Right cannon staging
3. Left lock (popper) staging

The default (if no subway diverter engages) is to end up in the left lock (popper). The behavior you describe is either:

• Failure of the left cannon opto signal
• Failure of the left cannon diverter to engage
• Failure of alignment of the left cannon diverter to physically divert the ball

There are probably other causes but those seem to the most obvious things to exclude first.

You are using the wrong board unless someone has changed the configuration on the board. Double check the configuration on the board matches the configuration specified in the parts list and verify it against the schematic.

01_A-16100.jpg02_A-16100-2.jpg

Consult the schematic that is documented in the manual.

03_schematic.jpg

Support is one of the least considered aspects when purchasing products. Most products probably don't have issues that require support - i.e. IJW=it just works. This is not always true from some manufacturers but those manufacturers typically don't last long or develop bad reputations. When the product requires support this is where manufacturers and merchants often separate themselves.

• J904 is digital logic power. That is +12VR (regulated +12V and used for digital logic comparison).
• J905 is switch state input to the Fliptronic board.

The manual often contains the information that is required but most people do not read the manual. Pay close attention to the left flipper cabinet board. Specifically pins 6 and 7. There is a something subtle there.

Edit: Not all manufacturers test all their boards prior to shipping to merchants. Often the merchants has to deal with the issues. Often this is coordinated with the manufacturer. Just because the board is brand new does not necessarily mean the board works when you receive it.

flipper_cabinet_circuit_diagram.jpg

This is not relevant. The flipper cabinet opto switches are slotted optos that contain the transmitter and receiver together as a unit. They are also direct (grounded) switches and not part of the switch matrix.

Definitely have to agree with this. No evidence for my opinion other than looking at the schematic. I would doubt that any of the passives are out of specification. Better odds with a guess that the active components are the problem.

A-16922.jpg

User posted a WTB with an image of a board that I assumed is the board that is in the machine.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/wanted-eddy-proximity-sensor-board-a-16922

Hey. Some of us dumb people try to help from time to time.

Yep. Well spotted.

Thehipster : Check F116 for continuity. Pull one end of the fuse or disconnect J112 to be sure. The 16-opto board is powered by the +12VU circuit.

Get well wishes here too!

Is LED7 on the power board illuminated? If not then BR5 is probably open.

Otherwise ...

Measure for +12VDC at J5-12. You can measure red lead to J5-12 and black lead to J5-13 or black lead to ground braid. If voltage is missing then measure for +12VDC at J116-2 (or J117-2 or J118-2). You can measure red lead to J116-2 and black lead to J116-3 or black lead to ground braid.

The voltage is unregulated and often measures higher than +12VDC (typically up to +14VDC or +15VDC).

There is also an LED on the 16-opto board and that should be illuminated if power is present.

The manual knows all (well ... mostly all).

sttng_lower_playfield_parts_locations.jpg

Yes. It's on the power board at the top left (near J112). It is a full wave rectifier than converts the AC from the transformer secondary to DC for use by electrical components or DC motors. Don't touch the board unless there's evidence that indicates you need to go there. Simple things first.

Sorry. That's J5 on the 16-opto board.

You have the pin numbers backward. They are numbered from the right to left.

1. KEY
2. +12VU
3. GND
4. +5VR

Weird. If the 16-opto board has power but it's not registering ANY optos in the matrix you definitely have a problem on the 16-opto board. The one point I can see in the schematic that would take out both columns is a problem with U5. I would take the board out and post some well illuminated and in focus images of both sides of the board. It might be something visually obvious (e.g. leaky capacitor causing a break in the trace) but otherwise if it's electrical you will need to make a further assessment as humans do not have electron vision.

Something must have changed since your voltage readings and now. What did you do? An LED that is not illuminated does not necessarily indicate that there is no voltage (potential) present. The LED could be non-functioning. Very low odds of that happening but still not 0. The only way to be sure is to MEASURE. Measure the voltage at TP1. If not present then test BR5.

Those looks like ground shorts on rows. You did something to the machine while the power was on. You will need to elaborate on what happened. Things like this don't normally happen spontaneously.

Disconnect J116/J117/J118. Power on the machine. If F116 blows you have a shorted BR5. If it does not blow you have a short on the playfield somewhere or there is a shorted drive transistor drawing too much current through the circuit causing the fuse to blow. Isolate the board and make an assessment after that. This follows the electrical central or peripheral part of the diagnostic flow chart.

You could have done something without realizing it. It could have spontaneously failed (possibly age related failure). Without history the cause will probably remain unknown. Knowing potential causes helps prevent it from happening again but it doesn't affect how you repair the current failure. Often people don't mention what they did (typically due to embarrassment). I'm not saying that's what you did but there are plenty of examples of failure to mention self-inflicted problems on this forum.

Reconnect each of J116/J117/J118 one at a time until the fuse blows. You can insert them so that only one is connected at any one time or you can sequentially insert them until the fuse blows. It doesn't matter. The last one inserted will point to where the potential problem is. There are three connectors and one goes to the cabinet, another to the DMC and the other to the playfield. The highest odds by a LONG shot is the playfield.

If it is the playfield then you will need to isolate each assembly that draws from the +12VU to find the assembly that is causing the problem. Unplug them all and go one by one. There is no fast way to find this (such as a binary search) because there is no order to the wiring (other than proximity and sequence). A potential (but not reliable) quick and dirty is to measure for continuity between the power pin (+12VU) and the ground (GND) pin on the assembly that requires the power.

This is work that you have to do. No amount of Pinside kibitzing is likely to help you. If I am wrong someone please kibitz so I can learn something.

Things keep changing and with the delay of days and posts between each response I get confused quickly. Are you saying that the missing opto columns (all optos not showing up in switch tests) is back? Or are you saying that the entire row short (all rows in switch tests are showing closed) is back? These are two different problems but may be a manifestation of a problem from the 16-opto board. Or they could be coming from two completely different causes anywhere in the machine.

If things change without an obvious cause it is sometimes "positional" in that it may be related to the playfield position where an exposed wire is bent or contacting a grounded part of the cabinet. I have no proof/evidence for this because this is not stated anywhere but it is something that should be considered at the back of the mind because this kind of detail is often left out when people ask for help.

Ok. So the same thing applies (as previously recommended).

• Check the LED on the 16-opto board is illuminated.
• Test for +12VU at the 16-opto board.
• If not present then go further up the chain as previously recommended.

So the previous image of the trough state you posted is now different? You posted this image with all the balls loaded. This is correct (as far as the ball trough optos are concerned). The jam switch (67) is open (shows as closed because it is an opto).

sttng_ball_trough_loaded.jpg

What is the state now? If you cannot accurately describe the state then you cannot expect people to be able to help you and I would advise just posting images instead of words. We want to help but if you cannot provide accurate and consistent information we will just be chasing our (and your) tails. Please don't take that personally but rather as advice on how to better get advice.

I don't know what LED1 is and even if I did it would depend on the board that you are using. For an opto pair to be recognized by the software as a valid switch the IR LED must be transmitting, the phototransistor must be detecting, the comparator circuit must be operating and the switch matrix wires must be connected and continuous with the CPU board. Any failure in that path will cause a problem. All but continuity with the CPU board are directly related to the ball trough receiver board. OEM boards have NO diagnostics on them (other than a possible power LED). That means you will need to do the diagnostics.

If the ball trough state cannot be accurately determined by the software AND the ball subway state cannot be accurately determined by the software or the diverter solenoids in the subway do not work then it will NOT correctly stage the balls and get confused very quickly. The software in this game appears to not be very tolerant of any ball switch state or travel inaccuracy. This is both good (you cannot start a game without the correct staging) and bad (the game does not work properly and therefore makes $0).

<opinion>

Nomenclature or terminology opinion.

I would avoid using the term "emitter" for the IR LED. The reason is that it can be confusing when referring to the phototransistor leads. Those leads are collector (C) and emitter (E).

For the IR LED I try to use the term "transmitter" and for the phototransistor I use the term "receiver" - in line with Tx and Rx. I do this to avoid the aforementioned confusion with emitter. When trying to help people with the wiring of their receiver board you will have to refer to the emitter and that can be easily confused with the transmitter board where there is only the anode (A) and cathode (K).

The manuals refer to them as LED PCB and Photo Transistor PCB.

</opinion>

Back to the regularly scheduled exploration of the galaxy in the name of the United Federation of Planets.

Including the switches in column 3 and 4? You specify ALL switches. This means that column 3 and 4 all register as closed (they are optos so they are physically "open"). Is this true? I get confused by your statements as they seem to constantly shift back and forth.

Please see above. Ignore whatever the game is doing when powered on. Get the switches to read correctly (ideally with NO balls in the machine). Once you have this known good starting point you should proceed from there. If you try to do everything at once you will just confuse EVERYBODY trying to help you.

Agreed. A lot of people want to solve all their problems at once. It's true that when troubleshooting you should ideally look for one cause that explains all the symptoms but this should not be an assumption. This is a general principle for diagnosis in the field of neurology. Any one lesion in the nervous system causing all the symptoms and signs is ideal but not always the lone cause. Sometimes one issue masks another and the secondary issue is only revealed once the primary issue is resolved. If one potential cause can adequately explain everything that is seen then that's great but it is not always the case.

All the transmitters (green boards) of the opto pair are always transmitting when power is applied. They are not pulsed or switched. They are always transmitting.

I work on information posted. When someone posts enough information for me to help (and nobody else has jumped in) then I will try to help. I will also post if I think someone is going down an incorrect path or a path that will not provide a solution. The more information provided the better the odds I will take some time to help. Less information means I have to solicit the information and that means I have to spend more time. Time I often either don't have or don't want to spend. I also avoid requests for help where a simple search of this forum will reveal the answer (i.e. it's something that has been posted many times before).

If the power is reaching the board then it may be distribution on the board. With a simple ordered problem a binary search produces a result in the least amount of time but the power rail is not ordered so you will have to be systematic - in measuring (what and where) as well as reporting (posting results here).

What "red led" on what "small optos" are you referring to? If you mention something like this you can reduce turnaround time between posts by simply posting an image with what you are referring to. Same thing as previously mentioned ... the more information you provide the better your odds of getting a response.

Now back to your issue.

If NONE of the opto pairs are registering then it is most likely to be an issue with the power rail. A more central issue rather than a peripheral issue (i.e. closer to the source of the power rather than the distribution throughout the board).

wpc_16-opto_board.jpg

You mention that J5-12 has +12V (or thereabouts). Measure DC voltage at the highlighted points. Same deal as before. DMM set to DC voltage (V with straight bar over it). Black led to ground braid. Red lead to target point.

• RED: Verifies continuity between J5-12 and blocking diode anode.
• ORANGE: Verifies 1N4004 blocking diode is not open.
• MAGENTA: Verifies distribution of +12V along the power rail. This does not cover all points but is a good starting point.

All the points should measure with some voltage close to +12V. Let's start here. Report back your findings.

The OEM boards do not have LEDs on them. You probably have an aftermarket board. Flipper cabinet switches are direct switches. They are NOT connected to the switch matrix. Not relevant to your problem.

The only other place that you haven't measured for power distribution is to the LM339 comparator but there is no reason to believe there's a problem there because your board looks clean.

Post an image of the J5 connector (playfield harness side).

I was hoping it was going to be something (visually) obvious that would cause the entire TWO columns to be taken out. It should be something obvious as a single point of failure taking them out but it does not have to be a single point nor obvious.

The problem with electrical issues is that you often cannot "see" them. If after ruling out all the obvious non-board issues and everything points to the board then the path of least resistance is to replace the board. You can try to diagnose and repair the board but if you're not good with electronics I would not try to do this remotely.

Next steps:

• Verify continuity of the GRN-ORG and GRN-YEL wires to the connector at the CPU board.
• Post an image of the lower part of the CPU board (from the battery holder to the bottom of the board).
• Post an image of the connector(s) at J206/J207.

Right now a lot of the simple easy things have been ruled out and you're fast heading to board repair or replacement.

This circuit is pulsed and a DMM is typically not capable of a fast enough response to display the information.

To exclude the CPU board read https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Switch_Matrix_Problems and follow the directions there. If the switches in column 3 and 4 register using that test then the problem is going to be in the 16-opto board or the wiring. You can exclude the wiring by verifying continuity between the board headers and the transmitters / receivers. Given that there is a failure of both columns it is likely those will measure correct (continuity is present). As I mentioned many posts ago one single point of failure that will take out both columns is U5.

16-opto_U5.jpg

Measure the voltage at U5-3 and verify it is +12VDC (in that range as this is unregulated).

This excludes the CPU board. The problem is going to be in the wiring or the playfield boards. I assume when you did this with column 3 and 4 that the switches in column 3 and 4 actually register. Seeing that definitively rules out the CPU board and most likely isolates the issue to the 16-opto board.

This means the comparator is getting the supply voltage (power) but it does NOT mean that it is working correctly.

At this stage the quickest, fastest, easiest way to get you going is to just replace the board. All the evidence points to a failure in the board. Doing any further diagnostics on the 16-opto board like this is just going to be painful. If you want to learn how to do the diagnosis that's a different thing but it won't be quick and easy. You might need to purchase additional diagnostic tools.

I have a 16-opto board that has been re-designed with LED diagnostics that I would love to sell you (not it is not a bridge) but that won't be a quick solution. Shipping to the UK from the US will take time. Your best bet for a quick solution is to purchase one from Pindora Box as they are located in Europe. I'm happy to provide you with my solution but it will likely be weeks (maybe a month or more) before you get it. Depends purely on the postal service.

The Pindora Box product @ https://www.pindorabox.com/product/opto-16-board-a-16998/ is the correct configuration for this machine (A-16998). Do NOT confuse with A-22019 that is electrically compatible but "upside down" and used only in very late WPC-95 machines (such as No Good Gofers).

opto_wiring.jpg

The wires are labeled.

• A/K (anode / cathode) are for the IR LED transmitter (the green opto board).
• C/E (collector / emitter) are the for the phototransistor receiver (the blue opto board).

The colors of your replacement wiring are not standard - hence the reason why they are labeled. They are close to standard. I assume:

• gray=anode
• black=cathode
• white=collector
• orange=emitter

If you are unsure you can match colors on the Molex connectors. Knowing the original color (on the playfield harness side) and the replacement color (the new wiring) will help people tell you what goes where.

I can't see the label on the other wires so I cannot say anything further.

• The IR LED (transmitter) has an anode (positive) and a cathode (negative).
• The phototransistor (receiver) has a collector ("positive") and an emitter ("negative").

Some aftermarket boards have A/K labeled on the green board and C/E labeled on the blue board. I don't believe OEM boards are labeled. You will have to remember which pad is which when you remove the wire.

• For the IR LED the GRY-XXX wire is the anode and the BLK wire is the cathode.
• For the phototransistor the GRY wire is the collector and the ORG-XXX wire is the emitter.

Those are the switch rows. It looks like you are highlighting rows 1, 5 and the key. If you are having a problem with these rows then this could be the cause but the problem you originally reported is the absence of columns 3 and 4. If I recall the last status is there is no problem with any of the rows so what you highlight seems unrelated to the problem you are trying to address. You can certainly re-pin the connector but it may not resolve your problem. If those pins are the problem you should either be seeing no switches in rows 1 and 5 registering or perhaps registering inconsistently.

The 0.156" pins for 18AWG are big enough to fit 2x 22AWG wires into the pin. It's best done by crimping one wire to the conductor of the pin and the other wire to the insulator of the pin. It's not ideal or recommended as you note. These pins are not big enough to fit 2x 18AWG wires.

The issue here is that the headers on these trough opto boards are 0.100" so you need 0.100" pins. These are tiny. No way 2x 22AWG wires are going to comfortably fit in the pin. That's my $0.02 (opinion).

This is not a trivial problem to solve in a straight forward manner. You will likely need to use one of the many suggestions for ways to get around this problem. There is no right or wrong as along as electrical connectivity is correct.

^^^ THIS ^^^

It's probably a combination of the radiating heat from the incandescent and the current that's actually heating up the joint.

These lamp boards are SINGLE sided boards without through holes. There is only the solder pad. Most people recommend "reflowing" solder (whatever that means in this context - see the Pinwiki article). If you want to repair the cracked joint put some flux at the joint and reheat the joint. Do NOT add more solder to a single sided board pad. There is nowhere for the extra solder to go except to pile up and make the mountain of solder even bigger. If you want to put some fresh solder down remove ALL the old solder first. If you just add solder you will end up with Mount Everest at the joint.

I generally don't push my boards. If people are interested they will do the reading and pursue their desired option. There are other 16-opto boards available.

The following boards are not listed in any particular order. The order is not an endorsement and should not be understood to be an endorsement in any way.

• Homepin board (above) available from various merchants.
• Pinball Electronics from barakandl board (above) available directly from barakandl. Not listed presently but I am sure it will be soon.
• Pindora Box board (https://www.pindorabox.com/product/opto-16-board-a-16998/) available directly from Pindora Box.
• Great Lakes Modular board (http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/index.html?http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/osb16.html) - no longer in production but may be available used.

I also have a board but it's not advertised (other than information posted in my thread). See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/4#post-5867818 if you are interested.

Note: The Homepin and Pindora Box boards are based on A-22019 and mount "upside down" when used in A-16998 and A-17223 orientation. The barakandl, GLM and my board are based on A-16998 or A-17223 and mount correctly in most machines except when used in NGG and CP which originally used A-22019 and therefore these boards mount "upside down" in those machines.

EDIT: For completeness I should mention that the board is also available from another manufacturer/merchant but given the circumstances and controversy surrounding that manufacturer/merchant this option has not been listed.

I went back to take a closer look at fitment. The Pinwiki (https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#WPC_16_Opto_Board_.28A-16998.2C_A-17223.29) has an image for comparison and shows the difference. The later board (A-22019) can be installed in either orientation but the original board A-16998 can only be mounted in one orientation due to the lack of two sets of holes.

The number of machines that use A-16998 and A-17223 is many more than the number that use A-22019.

A-16998 and A-17223

• Star Trek: The Next Generation production count = 11,728
• Dirty Harry production count = 4,248
• No Fear: Dangerous Sports production count = 4,540
• WHO dunnit production count = 2,416
• Scared Stiff production count = 4,028
• Junk Yard production count = 3,013

Total maximum available machines = 29,973.

A-22019

• No Good Gofers production count = 2,711
• The Champion Pub production count = 1,369

Total maximum available machines = 4,080.

The CPU board is not booting (no POST = power on self test).

The BLANKING signal is generated by the ASIC. U9 pin 34. It is distributed to the power board through the ribbon cable. The power board does not generate the signal. It is consumed (distributed) to the ~OC (output control) pin of each of the flip-flops. This allows the system to disable the logic of the flip-flops and prevent damage to the system when the software crashes (hangs).

@SNES:

I would start with the basics. Power off the system whenever you disconnect or reconnect cables / connectors between each step.

1. Isolate the CPU board by disconnecting everything except the power connector (J210).
2. Power on the system and see if the board POSTs. If the board POSTs then you have a problem on one of the other boards interfering. You can isolate the board by reconnecting the ribbon cables to each of the supporting boards one-by-one to find out which one it is.
3. If the board still does not POST then press firmly on the ASIC (U9). Try again.
4. If the board still does not POST then re-seat all the socketed ICs on the CPU board. These are the processor (U4) and ROM (U6). Try again.
5. If the board still does not POST then the next easiest thing to do is rule out the processor and ROM. The easiest way to do this is to use a known good CPU board.

Unfortunately your list of games does not show a compatible game that you can swap the board with. After all this and you still do not have a POST then you probably need to send the board out for repair. Those steps are the basics. Beyond that you need to look at the signals to see what's happening.

An alternative implementation for the tie back modification can be seen @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/13#post-6637329 for those interested in other options.

The Pinwiki is a great source of information and you should trust it. Just like Williams manuals it is NOT error free. The best part of the Pinwiki is that you can change it to correct errors. The Williams manuals ... not so much. Just let someone like ChrisH or JimP know about the errors and they (or someone else) can fix them.

These are images from the Williams manual. Other than the one page that specifies A-12697-1 it specifies A-12697-3 everywhere else. The page that references A-12697-1 uses the -1 designation because the board layout is -1. The difference is the flipper relay components and F112. This game uses A-12697-3 = NO flipper relays and associated circuitry.

00_sttng_backbox_assembly.jpg01_sttng_power_driver_bom.jpg02_sttng_power_driver_layout.jpg03_sttng_power_driver_connections.jpg

I don't see an interlock switch at all. All I see is a Cherry SPST microswitch wired as switch 22 (GRN-RED + WHT-RED). This is a low voltage switch on the switch matrix to detect coin door open / closed state. It does not interrupt high voltage. The high voltage interrupt (interlock) switch is a DPDT switch.

Post an image of the transformer and the wiring coming off the transformer secondary. Odds are you don't even have the "tap" of the high voltage secondaries and those wires route straight to the backbox (J102).

It's much better if you post an image of YOURS. If you wait for an image from someone else you might be waiting forever. You're also asking them to open up their machine, take an image, download the image and then upload the image. You should probably do the work because you want the help. Plus, if you post an image you'll get MANY more eyeballs looking at it. There are many people here versed in voltage conversion configuration.

I agree but from what I have seen if someone is asking for images they probably cannot easily read wiring diagrams. Not everybody understands how to read wiring diagrams, schematics and such things.

The Pinwiki also very adequately documents all of this and a lot of people don't know about or read the Pinwiki.

• https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#WPC_Transformers
• https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Early_WPC_Transformers_.289_pin_connection.29

• Domestic (US=nominal 120VAC) line fuse rating is 8A.line_filter_fuse_120VAC.jpg
• Foreign (non-US=nominal 230VAC) line fuse rating is 5A.line_filter_fuse_230VAC.jpg

It is always safe to underfuse so using 5A with 120VAC is safe. It is never safe to overfuse so using 8A with 230VAC is unsafe.

Note that the diagram shows the later WPC power wiring. Earlier WPC power wiring is different.

line_filter_early_wpc-89.jpg

The three important things to do when switching from nominal 120VAC to nominal 230VAC (or vice versa) are:

1. Change the MOV (metal oxide varistor) if present.
2. Change the line fuse (5A to 8A or 8A to 5A).
3. Change the jumper settings on the voltage select connector.

The transform is IDENTICAL from machine to machine (for the same machine). The difference is the voltage select connector that directs how many turns of the primary winding is used (and /or where it is tapped) to generate the voltage of the secondary windings. The physical transformer itself is wired the same way.

Check the specification on the line filter. I believe they are usually rated to 250V and a current rating probably > 10A. This means that it will work no matter where in the world it is because it exceeds either 110V/8A or 230V/5A.

So what's blowing again? Is it:

1. only F103
2. all of F901, F902, F903, F904 and F103

Your description is not specific enough to allow someone to provide you directed help. You will only get generalized help unless you are more specific.

I am going to assume that only F103 is repeatedly blowing.

Here's how you use the manual to figure out where a possible cause is for yourself. I have a special highlighting manual that assists you. This highlighting manual is not for sale.

Look at the power schematic to see where the power is derived and what fuse is in the path of what header pins.

00_wpc-89_50vdc_supply.jpg

F103 protects +50V at J107-1.

Then look at the solenoid table and see which solenoids are supplied by the +50V from the header pin.

01_sttng_solenoid_table.jpg

Look at the green box for the supply. Find the corresponding header pin in the red box. Note the corresponding drive connector in the orange box. Note the corresponding drive transistor in the yellow/gold box. For this game note the asterisks that clearly indicate the drive connector and transistors are on the 8-Auxiliary Driver board.

Here are some (not the only) diagnostic steps:

• Disconnect J107 and power on. If F103 blows there's a problem on your board. This is unlikely.
• Reconnect J107 and disconnect J4 (on the 8-Driver Auxiliary board). If F103 blows you likely have a short in the playfield. This is unlikely.
• Test the drive transistors listed in the yellow/gold box. One of them is probably shorted.

You should also mention if you do or do not hear the sound of a "locked on" solenoid. If you hear a solenoid plunger energizing at power on this is more evidence that you have a shorted transistor. If you do not hear anything then it is more indicative of a short in the wiring rather than a short in the transistor. This is not definitive. You could have a short in the solenoid and a shorted transistor. This means no magnetic field is generated and current flows directly to ground through the shorted transistor.

The more information you provide, the more someone can give you directed help.

Note that for this game, this kind of problem is typically related to the tieback diode wire. Assistance with that issue is beyond the scope of this post at this time.

A few small pieces of advice.

• I would not guess or ass-u-me. I would look at diagrams and try to diagnose the problem. If you want to guess then go follow your guess and see where it leads rather than asking the general audience to confirm your guess. Why wait for the audience when you go look for your guess yourself? If you don't want to guess then report your findings and ask for direction.
• You should consult the manuals. A lot of the information you need is documented in them.
• You should try to focus on one thing at a time. If you do too many things at once, you'll just confuse the reader and yourself when posts cross all the issues. If you present too many things at once, you may also put off people from replying. I know when I see a wad of issues I just ignore it. Too much and too complicated. Not worth my time helping.
• You should probably try to follow the advice previously given and report your findings. There was advice given for F103 but I don't see any follow up on it. I only see more questions about F901, F902, F903 and F904.

Here is how to confirm that F902 is not related to anything.

This is the same information in the solenoid table.

00_sttng_flippers.jpg

Notice the unused flipper is powered by J907-4. So what fuses this header?

01_wpc-89_flipper_power_supply.jpg

Just because you replaced something doesn't mean it's working correctly. Just because you replaced a board with a "new" board doesn't mean the board doesn't have a manufacturing defect (new board != guaranteed working board).

• Disconnect J902. Test for fuse blow. It should not blow. If it blows look for playfield short in the wiring.
• Test drive transistors for the flippers (listed in the table above). Report findings.
• Not sure about something? Post an image so someone (else) can see what you see in front of you.

EDIT: The purpose of the post is to help me (us) to help you.

A few things here:

• When a group of solenoids (such as 1-8 or 9-16) do not work then first check the corresponding fuse. These are the fuses in F101, F102, F103, F104 and F105. Do not visually inspect them. Pull one end out of the fuse holder and test them that way.
• If there is power then you can check the playfield wiring by momentarily grounding the transistor tab. With solenoids 1-8 do not ground the TIP36C. The tab of the TIP36C is already connected to ground.
• If the playfield wiring verifies then check the transistors. You have done this. The problem is that you report transistors Q64 through Q82 as testing bad but these are TIP36C transistors. You must check them using PNP testing not NPN testing. Go back and test them as PNP transistors.

Rottendog boards use MOSFETs. My understanding is that these do not test the same as BJTs so you should be aware of this.

This is one of the issues that plagues diagnostics. You need to be sure that you have things correct before applying power otherwise you will end up in a lather, rinse and repeat cycle of replacing components.

Start with the fuses and correct transistor verification method first. A failure of a group of transistors is extremely unlikely. If a group of solenoids fails it is more likely to be a logic problem.

For TIP102 (not TIP36C) configuration:

• Current leaves the power board from a pin at J107.
• Current moves along supply wire to one solenoid lug.
• Current moves from one lug through the solenoid winding to the other lug = generates a magnetic field.
• Current moves from other solenoid lug along drive wire to power board.
• Current enters the collector and exits the emitter of the transistor to ground.

The base of the transistor controls the flow of current from collector to emitter. When you ground the tab, you are simply connecting the collector to emitter as the tab is connected to the collector. The legs are BCE as you look at them from the "front" and the center leg (collector) is connected to the tab. This proves that your playfield wiring is correct. It indicates the problem is at the control of the transistor (either the transistor itself or the cascade of control upstream).

Try this: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Coil_Locks_On

I suspect you will find that there's nothing wrong with the transistors. Multiple transistor failure is extremely unlikely. When you have multiple solenoid failures, it's most commonly the fuse and beyond that, the digital logic that controls the group of solenoids.

Looks normal to me - assuming there are no balls in the ball trough.

I don't see any row short.

Looks normal to me - assuming there are no balls in the ball trough.

sttng_switch_matrix_chart.jpg

I must be missing something obvious and living up to the username that I am using.

sttng_solenoid_flasher_table.jpg

• Everything in YELLOW (gold) works.
• Everything in ORANGE does NOT work.
• Everything in GREEN does NOT work. Or does everything in GREEN work?

Please clarify. The details will allow differential diagnosis.

There are a few different possible causes to take out an entire group of 8 solenoids. Since all 8 are out, it is more likely to be central (board) than peripheral (playfield). More likely but not absolutely.

The orange group are fused by F104. The green group are fused by F103. It is unlikely (but not impossible) that both fuses blew at the same time. Check them both. Pull one end of the fuse out of the fuse holder and measure continuity (resistance). Do NOT visually inspect them. Measure.

If the fuses are good then measure for voltage at each of the solenoids in the string. Since all solenoids in a string are out, it is likely that if there is a break, it is at the head of the daisy chain. If all the solenoids have voltage then ground the drive transistor tab to verify your playfield wiring.

Start there. No need for further diagnostic steps that may not be relevant and only confuse the situation even more.

These switches do not show up in the switch matrix tests (T.1 through T.3). They are in switch column 9 and processed through the 8-Driver (Auxiliary) board. Use the machine specific gun tests to see whether these switches register.

Those solenoids are driven by the 8-Driver board. If the fuse tests good, check for voltage at the header on the PDB and then the solenoids. If the solenoids have voltage, ground the (corresponding) drive transistor on the 8-Driver board to test your wiring. This will differentiate central versus peripheral.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Coil_Fails_to_Work

Specifically section 6.25.6.3 (Coil Power is Not Finding a Path to Ground). Grounding the drive transistor tab (subsection 2). This is just to verify that the power is present (it should be as you measured voltage at the solenoid) and the path to ground is available when the drive transistor is "enabled".

It is extremely unlikely that all your drive transistors and/or wiring are broken. For a failure of the entire group of solenoids, it has to be something more central but ruling out the peripheral problems is good so you know you are chasing down the (potentially) correct path.

So what was the cause of the power problems and what was the resolution? The purpose of providing help is so that future readers of the thread will have something to reference about issues and resolution.

This won't cause a problem. All the pins on this connector are ground.

Fast blow fuses should not be used with inductive loads. Solenoids are inductive loads. Use a slow blow. You figured it out!

More than likely. This ribbon cable is easy to mis-orient or install off by one in the X or Y axis.

This game has an interlock switch at the coin door for the transformer secondary high voltage windings.

Empty all the balls from the trough. Enter switch test (either edges or levels). Post an image of the DMD (8x8 switch matrix status). Everything in column 3 and 4 should be closed. Most of column 6 should be closed. Switch 24 should be closed.

sttng_16-opto (resized).jpg

Switch 37, 38, 47 and 48 are not registering.

• Differentiate between opto pairs and state detection logic.
  • If state detection logic then you will need to investigate electrically.
  • If opto pair then you will need to differentiate transmitter versus receiver. It is usually the transmitter. It is unlikely that 4 opto pairs have simultaneously failed. It is more likely that you have a 16-opto board (electrical) problem.

Since you have an unusual 2x2 failure, you should consult the 16-opto board schematic and look for paths that are common to those switches. Focus on rows 7 and 8. Probably the LM339 comparator.

You can post images of your wiring as well. The wiring in the manual is correct.

sttng_ball_trough_wiring.jpg

Sorry. Got distracted. The wire order looks correct. What is of importance is that there is no "loop" for the GRY-YEL wire. It is supposed to be wired in parallel but with each individual wire going into the connector, there is no "loop" and therefore it is not wired in parallel. The parallel wiring is achieved by the connection on the board. This means that if you remove the connector you break the parallel wiring.

This appears to apply for both the transmitter connector (5 pins) and the receiver connector (12 pins). It does not explain whatever your problem is if the connectors are inserted into the headers. I have no clue what your problem is since it doesn't look like you have actually specified what it is.

Ah. I see. Those date back to two to three months ago. Sorry. I have recently had a lot of "senior moments". It also looks like nobody else in this club thread has made any suggestions.

The reporting that you provide leads to a potential conclusion that there is something wrong on the board. A "new" board does not mean a "good" board. It could have been good at some point in time but was damaged by something that happened in your machine's history. I believe the Pinside member pins4u is fond of stating that this manufacturer has a lifetime warranty of their products. I would contact the manufacturer to see if they will honor that warranty.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/no-flippy-on-one-flipper-was-working-well-now#post-7217675

It's a detail ... but ...

wiring1.jpg

!= (or <> or "does not equal")

wiring2.jpg

200% agree. Welcome back @ Pin_Guy.

• Q15 is a PNP 2N5401 transistor in a TO-92 package.
• Q16 is a 4-quadrant triac in a TO-220 package.

The software rapidly toggles the triac to control the amount of current flowing through it resulting in incandescent brightness. I have never seen a bad triac on any power driver board that I have repaired. I have only seen really bad repairs and attempted repairs of the headers.

<disclaimer>This is NOT a personal attack. I do not know your experience and knowledge.</disclaimer>

I have seen many people post that "I don't see any obvious problem" or "I don't see any battery alkaline corrosion" (when dealing with the CPU board not the power driver board). When pushed to post an image, there is an obvious problem (or obvious problems) to people with more experienced eyes.

Please post an image of the board (headers at J115/J120/J121) and the corresponding connectors. I could be 100% barking up the wrong tree here but I have seen a few too many instances where a person asking for help says one thing but the actual situation (not seen by everybody else) is different. A picture (image) is worth 1,000 words.

One other thing to verify is that you are measuring VAC, not VDC and that you are measuring it correctly. You should get ~6VAC on every other GI string. If you don't get the same measurement on the other strings then you are probably measuring incorrectly. Note that you should measure the VAC when the GI strings are fully illuminated (not dimmed).

Looks like there is prior work at J115 and J121. Always suspect prior work - including your own (if you did it).

The best way to measure GI VAC is header pin to header pin. Pull the connector out and just measure what the board is outputting. If you have the connector inserted in the header and measure that then you are measuring a circuit with a load. Exclude the load as the cause by removing it from your measurement.

First, easy thing to try is to swap the connectors between J120 and J121. Unlikely to cause a change but quick and easy to try. All the traces at J121 except the VIO wire are on the solder side of the board.

After that, the next most likely thing I would suspect is J115. That header has been replaced and quite a fair number of those traces originate on the component side of the board. If the through hole has been pulled there may be a lack of (or reduced) continuity. A view of the solder side of the board would be nice to have. You will have to remove the board in order to acquire this image. It will certainly allow a better assessment of the prior work since the work is mostly on the solder side of the board and hidden when installed.

You could avoid this by measuring continuity between points but you will have to consult the schematic to determine which points to measure between.

First up. Let me apologize. Some of this might sound terse. It's not personal to you. It could apply to other forum members. I am somewhat easily frustrated by people who say one thing (i.e. I know what I'm doing) and when challenged to explain it (or just describe it without the challenge), it is shown that what they are doing is, in fact, incorrect. Either that, or they have not expressed what they did with adequate enough detail to discern exactly what is going on.

This is NOT how you measure VAC. VAC is measured point-to-point in pairs from what is considered "hot" to "neutral". Often, neutral is tied to ground but not always. In this case the pairs are:

• BRN / WHT-BRN
• ORG / WHT-ORG
• YEL / WHT-YEL
• GRN / WHT-GRN
• VIO / WHT-VIO

When you measure the AC, you measure between those wires. Since it is AC the color of your DMM lead does not matter. Put one lead on the BRN wire and the other on the WHT-BRN wire while you DMM is set to VAC (V with the tilde line above it). Proceed for all five pairs. For the J120/J121 header the pins are:

• 1 to 7
• 2 to 8
• 3 to 9
• 5 to 10
• 6 to 11

Pin 4 is the key pin. You can measure these pins on both J120 and J121. They should measure identically (if the GI is fully illuminated - i.e. not dimmed). If you don't measure the same across the circuits (strings) then check the corresponding fuse first then check the connection at J115. The fuse is the much more likely cause for the lack of VAC. Since someone has done work on J115, the odds are good that that is the probable cause. I have repaired quite a few of these headers where someone has pulled most every through hole. They are often repaired with jumper wires on the back of the board. Those who don't verify their repair work just assume that everything works.

Note that I have no actual evidence for the above speculation. Only my experience and the "odds" game. Sometimes, people replace the triacs and cause damage there as well (pulled through holes and pads). The only real way to see this is for you to remove the board from your game and post images of the back side of the board.

Again, apologies if that's terse and unfriendly. I've seen plenty of these issues and I've seen plenty of posts of people "measuring VAC" and reporting it "good" when they aren't measuring it correctly.

That YEL jumper wire is for the transformer secondary servicing the VIO / WHT-VIO string. The GRN / WHT-GRN string is serviced by pin 10 and pin 5. I thought someone had posted the link but I must be confusing it with another thread. There seems to be a lot of posts (not just this thread) asking for help with troubleshooting tips and solutions well documented in the Pinwiki. See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems for more information. See https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:GIBuzzGreen.jpg for specific information on the GRN / WHT-GRN string.

Someone probably replaced J101 in an attempt to "fix" resets. In doing this, the through hole for the 13.3VAC transformer secondary on the header pin pads was removed. This restores continuity.

Again, someone replaced BR2 and C5 in an attempt to "fix" resets. This was common mantra. I don't agree with this. In my experience, the most common cause for WPC resets is header and connector issues. If I'm playing the "odds" game then I would put my money on headers and connectors before BR2 and C5. Often more damage is done trying to replace BR2 and C5. Damage that often causes WPC resets due to the poor board work. This RED-YEL jumper wire restores continuity from the (probably) pulled through hole at C5 or pulled through hole at the positive leg of BR2. VERY common in prior repair work. Seen plenty of these.

Aside from the excessive "mounds" of solder and the lack of cleaning off the flux, this "looks" good. Since I don't have electron vision, the ultimate way to know is to test continuity with a DMM.

No. This board has been "molested" but it can be fixed. If you are inexperienced with removing headers, you don't necessarily have to remove them. You can just add more jumper wires to restore any lost continuity. For your GRN / WHT-GRN issue, if you test for continuity between the indicated points in the Pinwiki image from zaza, and don't find it, then you can restore it with a jumper wire. The repair may be as simple as that.

If you are uncomfortable with board work then you should send the board out for repair. There are many reputable repair technicians. I recommend Chris Hibler but there are others (Coin-op Cauldron comes to mind).

I think the site has said that for years or so. He probably doesn't update his website. It's probably advisable to email/message for current estimates. I don't publish my estimates because it fluctuates.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that board is NOT new. It is possible someone got a hold of a bare OEM board and populated it but it looks like someone has either replaced a whole bunch of components or "reflowed" them on a used board.

• The capacitor at C2 is a ceramic radial. They didn't use ceramic radial capacitors when this board was manufactured.
• The 74ALS576 looks to be dated from 1987 week 48.

The least they could have done is cleaned off the flux from all their work.

The question you are asking about "absolute best" is PURELY OPINION. You will get a whole lot of different opinions (especially on this forum) about what the poster thinks is the best way to do something. Often, without any evidence or reason why they think so (perhaps other than because it is the way they did it).

I will offer one opinion (about one specific aspect of your question) with some reasoning for WHY it's a bad idea. Do NOT pull the tieback diode wire back through the harness. This makes the harness "not factory" and removes what can be considered "insurance" (backup wire). Leave the original tieback diode in place and add any extra wires you want. If you pull it out then that's effectively an IRREVERSIBLE (actually difficult to restore) change. You will still need to bridge the 50V output from the Power Driver board to the 8-Driver Auxiliary board to implement the tieback "mod" or "fix". This is best done with a new wire.

Leaving as much as possible as "factory" means that the next person who consults the manual won't say "WTF is this extra wire doing here? I'll rip it out and restore it to factory" and in doing so removes the ONLY wire (because you removed the original tieback diode wire) protecting the system. It doesn't hurt to have two wires implementing tieback diode electrical requirements.

Let's clear up all the confusion on proximity sensor boards. You need to understand the history and revisions to understand what is compatible with what. Key post this if you want.

1. A-16922
   • "Proximity Sensor II" - the original release with STTNG.
   • Manual calibration.
   • Smaller form factor.
   • Uses 4N25 to interface with the switch matrix.
   • Uses 2x 3300pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 9.09k Ohm resistor with a 2k potentiometer for adjustment.
2. A-17565
   • "Proximity Sensor III" - the later release with STTNG.
   • Manual calibration.
   • Smaller form factor.
   • Removed 4N25 and replaced with three discrete transistors to interface with the switch matrix.
   • Uses 2x 3300pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 4.7k Ohm resistor with a 10k potentiometer for adjustment.
   • Has an associated service bulletin. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-next-generation-eddy-board-service-bulletin for more information.
3. A-18543-1 (note the -1)
   • Manual calibration.
   • Larger form factor.
   • Same circuitry as A-17565 with the service bulletin implemented.
   • Uses 2x 3300pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 4.7k Ohm resistor with a 10k potentiometer for adjustment.
   • Used in Theatre of Magic for lane detection.
4. A-18543-2 (note the -2)
   • Manual calibration.
   • Same as A-18543-1 except for some component values.
   • Uses 1x 470pF and 1x 150pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 2k Ohm resistor with a 10k potentiometer for adjustment.
   • Used in Theatre of Magic for trunk hit, Road Show for dozer hit and Scared Stiff for crate hit.
5. A-22149-2 (note the -2)
   • Auto (or self) calibration.
   • Even larger form factor.
   • Detection circuitry is similar but uses an electronic poteniometer rather than a rotary potentiometer.
   • Electronic potentiometer is under software control.
   • Uses 1x 680pF and 1x 820pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 2k Ohm resistor with the electronic potentiometer.
   • Used in Cirqus Voltaire for ring master hit.
6. A-22149-1 (note the -1)
   • Same as A-22149-2 except for some component values.
   • Uses 2x 3900pF capacitors for sensing.
   • Uses a base 2k Ohm resistor with the electronic potentiometer.
   • Used in Monster Bash for phantom flip.

There are several manufacturers making both manual and self calibrating boards. Be aware that the manual calibration boards will only support either -1 or -2 but typically not both. When purchasing a manual calibration board, you must make sure you purchase the correct -1 or -2 variant.

These are the manufacturers that I am aware of. These boards may or may not be PHYSICALLY compatible. Check for form factor compatibility before purchase. If unsure then you should inquire with the manufacturer or merchant.

The order below is NOT an endorsement of any particular manufacturer. It simply random and whatever order I processed the list.

• https://nvram.weebly.com/wms-a-16922--a-17565-eddy-proximity-sensor.html
  • MANUAL calibration
  • All SMT except for the TDA0161
  • Sized for A-16922 or A-17565 and supports both.
• https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-eddy-sensor-board-assembly.html
  • MANUAL calibration
  • All THT
  • Advertised as supporting A-18543-2.
  • Image appears to show -1 configuration. Beware purchase you receive is what you ordered.
• https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023
  • AUTO calibration
  • All SMT (including the TDA0161)
  • Advertised as supporting A-18543-1 and A-18543-2 and A-16922. Uses shunt jumpers to switch configuration. Unlikely to physically support both A-16922 and A-18543 due to size difference.
  • Available as bundle to replace all Theatre of Magic boards.
  • Appears to have an unpopulated 6-pin ICSP header.

I also have boards available. See https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/10#post-6308140 and https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs/page/25#post-7516807 for images. Inquire with messaging if interested.

I wholeheartedly 100% agree that Andrew's board are great and he provides great support. For those that don't care about SMT vs THT, I recommend his boards. I cannot beat his prices since he has automated assembly. I would rather support the small hobbyist than the big manufacturer and merchant, but that's my preference. If you support the hobbyist then you'll probably get better support now and in the future.

I offer my boards bare (a niche market) or complete (inquire for pricing and availability). I have manual calibration and auto calibration - as seen in the link images. I don't publish prices because posts are static and age whereas component supply is dynamic and fluid. I don't want a post from a year ago with a price to be considered static.

You are correct. I stand corrected. I went back and looked more closely at the images in that service bulletin thread and I was mixing up the A-18543 images. That thread does show the original A-16922, A-17565 and A-18543. The A-16922 and A-17565 appear to be the same size with the different components. The change to A-18543 and the insertion of D3 caused the board to get a little bigger such that instead of the 3 resistors, it's 3 resistors and the diode. I am fairly sure your board (supporting A-16922 and A-17565) will work electrically in a ToM. I am fairly sure it will not fit the old holes physically.

The problem is that the text/wording in the page on the website doesn't explicitly say that. At least, the way I read it. It appears to imply compatibility with A-18543-2.

There are TWO primary points.

1. The size of the A-18543-1 or A-18543-2 board is larger than the factory supplied A-16922 or A-17565. The board is electrically compatible but not physically compatible.
2. The website does not allow you to specify -1 or -2 when ordering. So how will you know which board you get? You can roll the dice with this and hope you get the correct board.

If using a manual calibration board that is SMT is acceptable to you then purchase the one from Andrew (barakandl or nvram.weebly.com). There's no point purchasing the Anarchy from Pinball Life since it gains you nothing with respect to the two points above. If you want a THT board then you are forced into purchasing the Anarchy from Pinball Life or I have this board (manual with THT) available for $5 cheaper (my current pricing is $45).

If you want an auto calibration board then you must accept the physical difference since there is no physically compatible board that is auto calibration. In that case, you have two choices after you accept the physical difference. You can purchase the Tangles board or I have this board available for current pricing of $75. The Tangles board after AUD to USD exchange is about $63.

You need to make a choice that only you can make as to which board you want depending on what your requirements are and what is acceptable to you.

The whole reason I post all this stuff is so that a potential purchaser is as fully informed as they can be to make the best informed decision. If the data is not interesting then just go ahead and purchase a board (roll the dice).

Look at the switch itself. It will have markings. Follow the post @ https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dr-dude-mix-master-not-working-after-new-switch-install#post-7052698 to figure out how you should wire the switch.

Do not rely on the wiring from an image as you may be using a switch with different terminals.

Always check the switch terminal markings and connect the wires and diode the same way to the terminals. There are numerous ways to INCORRECTLY wire a switch. There is effectively ONE way to wire a switch correctly.

There are a few options for a replacement board if you decide to go down that route. I have one which implements the pull down resistor as well as a special feature.

00_8-driver_auxiliary.jpg

I made it easy for people who want a simple solution.

01_8-driver_auxiliary.jpg

Use the unused J108 header and build a cable from there to the special tie back header.

• 3-pin 0.156" housings. Quantity 2.
• 0.156" pins. Trifurcon recommended. Quantity 2.
• 22AWG wire cut to length and crimped with pins inserted into housing. Quantity 1.

I also have pass through "tap" boards that allow you to implement the solution without modifying ANY of the OEM wiring. Same single requirement to build a cable.

boards_195.jpg

Of course, you can implement any of the other available solutions.

• https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail
• https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Coil_Locks_On

Here are some other examples of differences:

• authorize vs authorise
• heme vs haeme
• neighbor vs neighbour (like color vs colour)

There are also differences in vowel pronunciation. Some examples:

• new as "noo" vs "knee-you"
• stupid as "stoopid" vs "stew-pid"

Of course, there are regional differences (accent) that vary across any country. Pronunciation is regional. Spelling is typically national or "dialect" based. I am sure this applies to other languages like French or Spanish spoken outside the "native" region. As a somewhat extreme example, Mandarin is the official (spoken) dialect but Cantonese, Chaozhou or Hokkien are other dialects. They share the same writing for the most part (simplified in PRC and full form (traditional) in Hong Kong and ROC) but their pronunciation is completely different.

In my experience, this appears to (originally) be a uniquely American thing. It is catching on elsewhere due to US influence (typically through entertainment = content).

• Xerox that document = photocopy that document
• Hoover that mess = vacuum that mess
• Google for the information = search for the information

The one thing I have seen that crosses the national or cultural barrier is medication.

• I was prescribed Coumadin to prevent DVT = I was prescribed warfarin to prevent DVT
• Opioids are reversed with Narcan nasal spray = Opioids are reversed with naloxone nasal spray
• Use Tylenol (US) / Panadol (elsewhere) for that headache = Use acetaminophen (US) / paracetamol (elsewhere) for that headache

I'm here to try to help people out with issues they may have. I would love to be able to advertise and peddle my products but I believe that such things should be in a separate thread so anybody interested can go read that thread rather than bombing another thread.

However, if anybody else wants to peddle my products ...

I am, by no means, an electronics expert but for those who want a better understanding do a search for "What is meant by hysteresis in electronics?" and you will probably find multiple articles explaining it. Another search for "What is a schmitt trigger?" will provide additional information.

I guess another way to think of this is similar to how PWM allows LED dimming.

Agree with this. This is part of the reason I am now quite picky about what threads I post in. I have seen this in real life many times over. I stop interacting with people who exhibit this behavior.

Agree with this as well. Everything, and I mean everything, in life is an odds game. The higher frequency causes have higher odds of being correct. Anyone interested in a shotgun approach to troubleshooting should always play the odds game. Then again, if the shotgun approach is being used then it's not really systematic and likely the odds game does not feature in the decision making process.

Same caveat. I am not formally trained in electronics. I did high school physics. The rest is just reading. A lot of reading. The same material until some of it sinks in.

The flipper cabinet switch is a slotted opto. The slotted opto consists of a transmitter and receiver in a single molded plastic with a slit allowing the beam to be interrupted. The transmitter is infrared and always on. The receiver is a phototransistor with the base exposed that responds to the infrared light falling on it. The higher the intensity of the infrared light the more the phototransistor conducts current. This is why the resistor on the transmitter side is important. The higher the value, the less the intensity and therefore the less the phototransistor will conduct.

The flow of current through the phototransistor affects the voltage. You can think of it as a resistor. The issue is more with the voltage. The comparators on the CPU board compare the voltage. They convert an "analog" signal (voltage between 0V to 12V) to a "digital" signal of either low (0) or high (1). The comparator has a threshold where any voltage lower than the threshold is converted to low and any voltage above the threshold is converted to high. Since the threshold is a single value (point), if the input voltage is close to this threshold it could "pivot" around this and generate either a low or a high depending on which side of the threshold it falls.

This is the reason that TTL defines specific thresholds for low or high. An input low is between 0V to 0.8V and an input high is between 2V to 5V. Anything between 0.8V to 2V is indeterminate. If a comparator has a threshold (for example) of 6V for a 12V circuit then an input low is between 0V and 6V and an input high is between 6V and 12V. If the input hovers between 5.9V and 6.1V then it will pivot between low and high at the frequency it moves back and forth. In this case, it's true that the output is binary (low or high) but would you consider this truly binary (as in the switch is closed or open)? It's really indeterminate from a practical point of view.

So why does cleaning the opto help? It allows more of the infrared light through and increases the intensity of the light falling on the base of the phototransistor and moves the voltage out of the "indeterminate" zone.

The software may indeed do this. I don't know since I haven't looked at the software.

One question does fall out from this though. "How do you deal with the repeated switching from false to not-false (true)?" The software can detect the state and maybe issue a warning or alert but how does that affect game playability but more importantly, money "earnability"? What can the software do to allow the flippers to still operate while the switch is in this indeterminate state? It's not like ignoring or compensating for a non-functioning switch.

I don't profess to having any answers. Like many things in life, you can look at one problem and try to solve it only to find yourself looking at another problem.

kstairmantis Kerry's products are AWESOME. It will be a sad day if/when he retires.

Both headers (and connector/pins/housings) are 0.100" (2.54mm)