Wow, that Borg ship looked amazing!
I just started painting mine. At least with the primer.
But I am looking at ending up with the same colour scheme as you have.
I have seen some that are done very black, and that doesn't look right.
So gray shades with a bit of metallic is the way I am going.
Maybe I have to get a more light gray color for the base?

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Axl

Finally got the time to get the painting done on my ship. Really happy with the results!
And I had a fun time doing it.

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Now, on to the cannons.

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I am in the exact same boat.
I had a long stare at the playfield, but I could not find any good places for them.
I would like to light up the Borg ship and the general PF areas

Axl

Someone just offered to buy my STTNG. I have to admit that it is somewhat tempting, but at the same time, I just freaking love that game!
Is there any games that can compare to STTNG, toys/features/code?

Axl

Thanks for the info about the domed cannons. I bought the domes myself, but could not figure out how to remove the old ones.
Now I know

Axl

Pin guy: what do you treat the metal brackets with when you have cleaned them up? And what do you use to clean them?

Axl

Does anyone have any good suggestions for spotlights in STTNG? it is very dark...

Thank you!
That looks like a good place to have them.
I will update the thread when I place mine.

I have The Shadow next to my STTNG. TS is a totally different beast, lightening fast, great ruleset, animation, music. It will never leave!

The best thing would be to update the first post in this thread. That way it would be very easy to find, and for new owners would see it
right away.

This is cheap, works wonders, and won`t look silly in the machine.

http://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm

It is universal. i Have it on Pinball Magic, BSD, STTNG, TS and so on.

Regarding the Tieback mod. this is a great thread with very good explanation.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-tieback-clarification#post-3041844

What is the easiest way to adjust the upper flipper so it is perfectly aligned?
I can make the shot, but not consistently, and would just want to make sure it is perfect.

I am thinking about doing a top shop of my STTNG and changing all the optos for fresh ones. This will be my 7th or so top shop.

How bad is it?

Thank you for those cards, fit the theme and design of the machine.

to change out the mission start cover, do i need to remove the subway? or can i sneak it out?

To answer my own question, no.

side note, the owner before med cleand up the game very nice. removed the subway and it was very clean. impressive.
The game has been performing flawless in 3 years now. is that a record?

Someone make this a Key post!

I would say too much ball control. Go with the titan ones. They are silicone and plays like a normal red rubber. The super bands are too sticky for my taste.

You are totally right. With you 100% When I think back, my game came with super bands. Maybe that’s the reason that I got hooked in.

last year (!) my son was playing my game and shouted from the basement that it was on fire.
Found out the hard way that the tieback mod was not done.
I have tried to fix the old board, no go. I have bought a new board and coil. I have done the tieback mod with the tieback going to J08 as suggested
at pinwiki.

I have checked all my fuses, all good. still, all the diverter coils are dead.
I bet this has come up like 100 times, but I am stumped. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

I am trying to work trough this list made by Pin_Guy
The game did not have the tieback mod and fried a coil and the board. new board and coil is in the game.

Here is the checklist:

In order to properly diagnose this problem you should perform testing on all parts listed above with power off:
1) You should read a short between the +50V TP (TP6) on the power board and J4-1 CHECK
2) You should NOT have a short between J4-1 (50V) and J4-7 (GND) CHECK
3) With the J4 cable removed, the coils should measure around 10 ohms each between the Pin 1 of the J4 cable and solenoids at pins 2, 4, and 5; and 5 ohms at pin 6.
4) The transistors should have high resistance between J4-7 (GND) and the solenoids connectors on J4 pins 2-6 with the cable removed CHECK
5) The blocking diodes should pass a diode test between J4-1 (+50V) and the solenoid connectors on J4 pins 2-6 with the cable removed CHECK
If the above tests do not ALL pass, powering on the machine could result in secondary failures as mentioned above.

Any suggestions on what to test next? i do not get the readings on
3) With the J4 cable removed, the coils should measure around 10 ohms each between the Pin 1 of the J4 cable and solenoids at pins 2, 4, and 5; and 5 ohms at pin 6.
my readings is way off. am i using the multimeter wrong?

please educate me

My 8 driver board fried today. I thought I had fixed the problem. The board was fixed, new coil, tie back mod done.
Then while I was playing, the machine took some thinking, then the transistor on thee 8 driver and the coil associated fried.

What did I do wrong?

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Tie back mod

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I tested all the transistors and pre drivers. The only one I needed to replace was the burnt one.
I have a spare board. What do I need to test before I replace it? Except the coil, that is given.

Trying to fix a STTNG that had the 8 driver board fried and one coil. When I power it up, none of the coils from the 8 driver board works.

The 12v that goes to cannons is not working. The 12v is entering the board though.
I have tested all transistors and predrivers, they all look fine.

Is my board configured correct?

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Yes, I did, I checked continuity on several connections and around the game. All good.
my only regret is that I didn’t check that it was done when I bought the game.

Actuqlly, that board is brand new! It’s from pinball center. They sell shit products though.

I bought the STTNG cannon replacement harness. In the manual it says that you should turn the cable clockwise. I don’t understand that.
Has anyone installed it and has some knowledge?

My game started to activate the plunger in attract mode after a while. I counted 9 activations with random timing. Then not ring for 30 minutes and then once more. Any suggestions on what it could be?

Edit:

I played a game now, and everything went bananas. It repeatedly plunged, and a lot of phantom scoring. A short in the switch matrix?

Very weird. It worked fine during the weekend. I will check. Hopefully it will be a quick fix.