Quoted from dmacy:Reflow the header pins and the leads to the bulb holder. That should get you going again.
That was it! I was looking for a visible solder crack and assumed all was good when I didn’t see anything.
(Topic ID: 47092)
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Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993
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Quoted from Pinless:That was it! I was looking for a visible solder crack and assumed all was good when I didn’t see anything.
This is what you were looking for...
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Pin_Guy:This is what you were looking for...[quoted image]
Ahhh! I wasn’t looking close enough or my eyesight isn’t what it used to be.
I had about 10 random lights that weren’t working, and after fiddling with them, I’m down to 1 inoperable bulb. I just need a new socket for the borg lock light and it will be 100%.
Just ordered the Color DMD LED and OCD boards and will be super excited to finally get them.
Quoted from Pinless:I have a couple of these 4” smd light strips. Is there a good spot to place these on STTNG?
In the trough under the apron to illuminate the flippers.
Melbourne
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:My machine is MISSING this part. Can anyone help me with the PART NUMBER or NUMBER (s) of what this is?? Star Trek Next Generation outer loop gate.
I have the manual and everything, but can't identify the part. Also I know the gate is a "one way" gate. Certainly I would be interested to know how this might impact game play and such.
Thanks all you super cool pin people!!!
[quoted image]
It's A-16959 Switch Gate Assembly - shown as #41 on the Upper Playfield Parts Location Page 2-36 of the manual
STTNG upper PF parts (resized).JPG
Here's a picture of it from the Parts Catalog
Doesn't look like any of the pinball suppliers carry this gate, you might want to create a wanted post in Pinside marketplace as someone might have parted out a machine ...
Not having it wouldn't overly impact gameplay, potentially a ball bouncing around above the top lane rollovers or a slower hit right orbit could go incorrectly down the left orbit rather than through the top lane rollovers into the pops, however I wouldn't think that this would happened that often
Quoted from Manny65:It's A-16959 Switch Gate Assembly - shown as #41 on the Upper Playfield Parts Location Page 2-36 of the manual
[quoted image]
Here's a picture of it from the Parts Catalog
[quoted image]
Doesn't look like any of the pinball suppliers carry this gate, you might want to create a wanted post in Pinside marketplace as someone might have parted out a machine ...
Not having it wouldn't overly impact gameplay, potentially a ball bouncing around above the top lane rollovers or a slower hit right orbit could go incorrectly down the left orbit rather than through the top lane rollovers into the pops, however I wouldn't think that this would happened that often
Mantis make some generic gate brackets, check out their web site, the wire you can bend...
Hey STTNG Peeps,
tracking this blog on a couple of topics. Yes, thank you for those who followed up on the info about the missing gate part I need.
** Still looking for the RARE Item. The A-16959 Switch Gate Assembly. (01-11688 mounting bracket and a 12-7118 Wireform. See photo attached. ANY resource someone knows for this would be fantastic!
** Also reading about the 12 volt power draw on the system. It's a LEGIT concern. With a Color DMD, PinSound System, LED Flipper Buttons and some LED lighting strips, you ARE going to blow Fuse F116. Verified. I have the New Rottendog Power Driver Board (which is fantastic) and new Optos boards everywhere including new trough boards and opto power board. And I am going to replace my original Williams DMD board with the DMD LUX board, which relocated the 12 Volt power for Color DMD from the driver board BACK to the DMD BOARD it'self. Do I need an EXTERNAL switched 12 supply of some kind for smooth sailing??? If so, what do people recommend?? Yes, I am OCD about this. sorry. Eric
a-16959 switch gate assembly (resized).JPGQuoted from dmacy:Reflow the header pins and the leads to the bulb holder. That should get you going again.
Yep... especially since the pin that feed that flasher is visibly cracked. Reflow them all.
pins (resized).pngQuoted from Eric_Manuel:** Still looking for the RARE Item. The A-16959 Switch Gate Assembly. (01-11688 mounting bracket and a 12-7118 Wireform. See photo attached. ANY resource someone knows for this would be fantastic!
you may be able to try this one and reverse the wireform opposite direction , I had a Sttng in the past i did something like this to for that same gate but could not find receipt for exact one but this looks like it . https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-9465-L
Quoted from Timerider:Yep... especially since the pin that feed that flasher is visibly cracked. Reflow them all.
Wow... that was weird. My STTNG club pages we're refreshing, so I never saw the dozen or so newer posts, including those whom already answered & the OP's confirmation of fix.
Doh!!
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:** Also reading about the 12 volt power draw on the system. It's a LEGIT concern.
IMO you are concerned over nothing.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:I have the New Rottendog Power Driver Board (which is fantastic) and new Optos boards everywhere including new trough boards and opto power board.
The new trough board and opto board already reduce the load of your 12V by removing the high power load resistors. How much current are you pulling on the +12VUR circuit right now? The best way to quit obsessing over this is to simply measure it on your machine. If you dont know how to make a current measurement just ask.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:With a Color DMD
Which one? Color DMD LED or Color DMD LCD? Why does this matter? The Color DMD LCD display pulls SIGNIFICANTLY more power than the Color DMD LED display.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Do I need an EXTERNAL switched 12 supply of some kind for smooth sailing???
Again, IMO no.
Can someone please post how much current the Pinsound board uses, I'm assuming its relatively low being a modern circuit board.
Thank you Pin_Guy. I believe I have the Color LCD display. It's the "larger screen" which is like a laptop computer screen. So there is more power needed for that system to run. I had noticed on some of the installation YouTube videos, the manufacture had ran a dedicated power line from the power supply. However mine (currently) is powered off the Power Driver Board. I went ahead and ordered a DMDLux display board, which brings the power for the display BACK to coming from the Display Driver Board it'self. Can't wait to install it.
Comments on the Optos in this game, and I have done it both ways. You can get them in pairs for under $10 a set. Yes, it's going to cost to get 16 sets, however with some careful soldering skills, and during a complete overhaul, just replace them all. Then you eliminate all the problems which I read on these blogs. The NEW Opto board is also much more power efficient too. Why do all this??? Because the STTNG game is WORTH the expense and effort, and won't work by limping by on broken optos. (my opinion). If you are (and we all are) on a budget rebuilding this game. Don't waste money on the ship mods, if the game is flaking out all the time.
Just tonight I found an Addams Family in an Arcade. Was excited to play it. Didn't get one game completed after 5 games paid for. It could find the balls in the machine. And YES, the STTNG takes (6) SIX the is S I X balls. not 7, or 9. It's clearly prints on the machine and manual.
Follow up on the Launch Ramp issue. It is VERY particular on adjustment to get it right. If it's out, the ball rubs against stuff, and NEVER gets to the top drop target, let alone goes into the trough to load the cannons. Ok that is my ranting for tonight lol. Eric
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Can someone please post how much current the Pinsound board uses, I'm assuming its relatively low being a modern circuit board.
The power drain on my LAH with pinsound was considerable enough that I had to buy their power adapter to have it run correctly, but of course that was with Data East. I did not get to put a meter on it though. Ended up not using it and it's just sitting in its box if you are interested...
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Comments on the Optos in this game, and I have done it both ways. You can get them in pairs for under $10 a set. Yes, it's going to cost to get 16 sets, however with some careful soldering skills, and during a complete overhaul, just replace them all.
This is good advice for sure; especially if you are doing a restoration. If you are budget conscience, and have the right soldering skills and equipment, it's considerably cheaper by to just replace the IR LED and phototransistors as you can refurbish 100 sets of optos for less than it will cost to buy 5 new ones.
Links to the matching pairs, there are the original parts used by Bally-Williams:
IR LEDs ($24.60 for 100 units, or $4.24 for 10)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=KIIz7VjqD7I4A%252BR7oPm1DQ%3D%3D
Photo Transistors ($25.20 for 100 units, or $4.58 for 10)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=MxR4l2%2FOSsAHaGvM89M6PA%3D%3D
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Follow up on the Launch Ramp issue. It is VERY particular on adjustment to get it right. If it's out, the ball rubs against stuff, and NEVER gets to the top drop target, let alone goes into the trough to load the cannons.
My game had this issue when I got it and during the restoration I found it had the wrong coil stop installed which was giving the catapult more throw than it was designed for and driving the ball into the launch rail. This is a common issue as the coil stop for the catapult is non-standard part and was used ONLY in the STTNG catapult assembly and in Bally Corvette; a worn coil stop or installing the incorrect coil stop will cause this problem every time.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=A-16886
Once replaced, the ball had to much energy leaving the loop it would bounce off the drop target so hard that it would exit the orbit instead of entering the lanes; this settled out after a few dozen plays (100 or more launches).
Quoted from Pin_Guy:This is good advice for sure; especially if you are doing a restoration. If you are budget conscience, and have the right soldering skills and equipment, it's considerably cheaper by to just replace the IR LED and phototransistors as you can refurbish 100 sets of optos for less than it will cost to buy 5 new ones.
Links to the matching pairs, there are the original parts used by Bally-Williams:
IR LEDs ($24.60 for 100 units, or $4.24 for 10)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=KIIz7VjqD7I4A%252BR7oPm1DQ%3D%3D
Photo Transistors ($25.20 for 100 units, or $4.58 for 10)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=MxR4l2%2FOSsAHaGvM89M6PA%3D%3D
That’s what I did and still have a bag of them left over. Even with basic soldering skills, it’s an easy project...
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Thank you Pin_Guy. I believe I have the Color LCD display. It's the "larger screen" which is like a laptop computer screen. So there is more power needed for that system to run. I had noticed on some of the installation YouTube videos, the manufacture had ran a dedicated power line from the power supply. However mine (currently) is powered off the Power Driver Board. I went ahead and ordered a DMDLux display board, which brings the power for the display BACK to coming from the Display Driver Board it'self. Can't wait to install it.
Comments on the Optos in this game, and I have done it both ways. You can get them in pairs for under $10 a set. Yes, it's going to cost to get 16 sets, however with some careful soldering skills, and during a complete overhaul, just replace them all. Then you eliminate all the problems which I read on these blogs. The NEW Opto board is also much more power efficient too. Why do all this??? Because the STTNG game is WORTH the expense and effort, and won't work by limping by on broken optos. (my opinion). If you are (and we all are) on a budget rebuilding this game. Don't waste money on the ship mods, if the game is flaking out all the time.
Just tonight I found an Addams Family in an Arcade. Was excited to play it. Didn't get one game completed after 5 games paid for. It could find the balls in the machine. And YES, the STTNG takes (6) SIX the is S I X balls. not 7, or 9. It's clearly prints on the machine and manual.
Follow up on the Launch Ramp issue. It is VERY particular on adjustment to get it right. If it's out, the ball rubs against stuff, and NEVER gets to the top drop target, let alone goes into the trough to load the cannons. Ok that is my ranting for tonight lol. Eric
I have the DMD LUX board, but its not connected to the power supply of the color dmd?...There is a power out cable from the board that includes a 12 and 5v supply, but that was for the original plasma display board. The instructions of the color dmd state to attach it to the PDB (J116 I think), and to remove that cable (J 604) from the machine.
When I first got the Color DMD, I "did" remove the old original power cable coming from the Display Board. Yes you are correct, the Color DMD connects to the Power Driver Board. With other options also using power from that board, it strains F116 Fuse everytime.
So tonight I installed the DMD Lux board. Ran power directly from board to power the Color DMD and everything is happy. ALSO got my newly painted Borg ship from Back Alley, and it's great. Putting in the blue windows tomorrow and some photos coming.
COOOL info on the Coil Stop for the Catapult. Next on the tweeking list to mess with.
E
Hey folks, about 25% of the way through the restoration. Top and bottom of playfield almost done, stripped to the posts, cleaned, waxed, hardware in the tumbler, subway cleaned and polished, new ramps, new plastics/rubbers. Tackling the cabinet and artwork this summer. Cannons and ships off for painting soon hopefully. My question is where does this plastic go? Havent found a spot for it yet
20201223_140630 (resized).jpg20201223_140644 (resized).jpg20201223_140703 (resized).jpg20201223_140731 (resized).jpg20201223_140734 (resized).jpg20201223_140736 (resized).jpg20201223_140738 (resized).jpgQuoted from Eric_Manuel:When I first got the Color DMD, I "did" remove the old original power cable coming from the Display Board. Yes you are correct, the Color DMD connects to the Power Driver Board. With other options also using power from that board, it strains F116 Fuse everytime.
WARNING ... <RANT>
I hate when I see posts like this as they speculate facts that are simply not true.
I'm going to use my own machine as an example as to why this is a false statement; In my STTNG I have an original Power Driver board with 25+ year old caps that have never been replaced, a Color DMD LED that was an LCD until I upgraded a year or so ago, lighted flipper buttons, hallmark ship mods, and all original WPC board set including the original power draining 16 opto board and ball trough IR LED board. In over 5 years I have never blown a fuse and this included several pinball parties where the machine was powered on all day.
Side note: I also have NEVER had this machine reset during play regardless of having original boards and no "reset fix" in place.
</RANT>
Happy holidays everyone!
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:o tonight I installed the DMD Lux board. Ran power directly from board to power the Color DMD and everything is happy.
I'm not familiar with this board, where does it get its power from?
Quoted from Digduglus:Hey folks, about 25% of the way through the restoration. Top and bottom of playfield almost done, stripped to the posts, cleaned, waxed, hardware in the tumbler, subway cleaned and polished, new ramps, new plastics/rubbers. Tackling the cabinet and artwork this summer. Cannons and ships off for painting soon hopefully. My question is where does this plastic go? Havent found a spot for it yet
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
It sits behind the Delta quad ramp and the command hole...sits on the plastic..there is a pic of it here in the gallery of its proper location...
Quoted from monkfe:It sits behind the Delta quad ramp and the command hole...sits on the plastic..there is a pic of it here in the gallery of its proper location...
I'm a big fan of pictures 
STRANGE CANNON ACTIVITY. Some help STTNG Pin people please. So sometimes during gameplay, a choice to "Launch A Probe" is selected to use the Cannons. The Cannon (Right Side) will cycle through (all the way to left then back to home) and then the ball will load. It's almost like the software "jumped the gun" on moving the cannon, then settled down to load the ball.
Additional information. New Opto Transmitters and Receiver Boards everywhere (all replaced) and new opto board. Also, new designed Trough Board. Upon testing, everything is fine. I am also getting a "lost ball" sometimes during game play. Final note. I also the Cliff Subway protectors installed (if that matters to know). All of the diverters everywhere are 100 percent rebuilt.
Ideas as to where to begin my investigation??
Did you replace the cannon looms?
It sounds to me like the wires inside the cannon looms are broken which leads to "lost balls" during the game.
Yes, I replaced the Cannon Looms with new ones. I know the symptoms of a broken loom lol. If I had a guess, even though all the opto sets are totally new, the are working in and around the subway protectors (3) different ones which are now installed. Do you have those? One shoots through the steel protector which has a hole, cant remember which one specifically.
Thoughts??
Other questions if I may:
1) Do you use a pinball cover, and if so, what do you like??
2) Do you use an external 12 power supply for mods like lighting led strips, etc? if so what did you go with?
3) Has anyone did a mod to cover up the ugly section where the ramp feeds the Borg ship?? Crap, you see the opto boards and end of ramp fittings, looks crappy.
4) Do you have a favorite pinball table leveler ? What do you use.?
thanks man
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Thoughts??
None specifically with the information given. Sadly; I trouble shoot via problem solving; given you've done the shotgun approach of replacing everything - I can only assume something was done wrong.
Might be a good time to "get back to basics" and restart the troubleshooting.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:1) Do you use a pinball cover, and if so, what do you like??
I use PinShields exclusively on all my pins when stationary. I like that I only have to roll/unroll them when I play.
I have Pin Armor for moving my pins between the arcade and offsite events.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:2) Do you use an external 12 power supply for mods like lighting led strips, etc? if so what did you go with?
No. I'm a firm believer in using the existing power supply. I haven't yet found a need for an external power supply in any pin.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:3) Has anyone did a mod to cover up the ugly section where the ramp feeds the Borg ship?? Crap, you see the opto boards and end of ramp fittings, looks crappy.
Hasn't bothered me to the point to even figure out what you are talking about.
A picture speaks 1000 words.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:4) Do you have a favorite pinball table leveler ? What do you use.?
thanks man
I use to use an old Android App on an older flat bottom phone... but I lost the license when I moved phones. I really hate that software developers seem to think it's ok for you to re-buy their app when you get a new phone.
Thank you Zitt for the info.
Here is the area I was talking about. Some people replace the Borg ship with a Cube version (not my favorite, but that is just me). I was interested if anyone has addressed doing a mod to hide this mechanical crap? With a backboard lighting strip, it shows up, which makes it worse.
STTNG176 (resized).jpgSTTNG184 (resized).jpgAnother issue I would love to learn more about. Borg Ship internal lighting. There are (4) lighting circuits within the ship. Left Flashers, Center Flashers, Right Flashers, and Borg Ship (inside) itself. None of this lighting is on any other rows or column. This lighting is designed to create a cool light effect, when actually facing the Borg in the game, all other lighting goes off. It's cool and dramatic.
Question: The (2) Borg Ship lighting bulbs are barely seen, or even used. The flashers are very active, even in the light show at the end of the game. So what is the actual purpose for this understated (2) bulb lighting?
You can actually test the bulbs via TEST and going to Single Lamp and selecting Borg Ship.
STTNG185 (resized).jpgI'm not aware of anything that would cover that area.
The Nycon VUK kit I sell does not have anything.
It looks like a problem area because of the screw holes / Washers.
I do have some scrap VUK material here and a laser cutter; so "in theory" I could mock something up.
That said; I haven't looked at my machine yet... and don't have any Ideas on how to cover it graphic wize.
Are There LEDS in the game? if there are and they are bright, check angles top and bottom of playfield and be sure none are triggering an opto. this has been a problem i found on a friends game .I know it sounds odd but was an actual solution . maybe negated or sent similar beam somehow
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:STRANGE CANNON ACTIVITY. Some help STTNG Pin people please. So sometimes during gameplay, a choie to "Launch A Probe" is selected to use the Cannons. The Cannon (Right Side) will cycle through (all the way to left then back to home) and then the ball will load. It's almost like the software "jumped the gun" on moving the cannon, then settled down to load the ball.
Additional information. New Opto Transmitters and Receiver Boards everywhere (all replaced) and new opto board. Also, new designed Trough Board. Upon testing, everything is fine. I am also getting a "lost ball" sometimes during game play. Final note. I also the Cliff Subway protectors installed (if that matters to know). All of the diverters everywhere are 100 percent rebuilt.
Ideas as to where to begin my investigation??
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:There are (4) lighting circuits within the ship. Left Flashers, Center Flashers, Right Flashers, and Borg Ship (inside) itself. None of this lighting is on any other rows or column.
The Borg ship lamps are #78 on the lamp matrix while the flashers aren't controlled lamps.
However you're correct the lamps don't seem to be used during game play (unless it's in conjunction with the Borg Flashers during Borg MB but without removing the borg ship I can't tell). Whether this was an oversight or the coders decided not to leverage them to make Borg MB more special we'll probably never know.
STTNG Lamp Matrix (resized).JPGQuoted from Eric_Manuel:The Cannon (Right Side) will cycle through (all the way to left then back to home) and then the ball will load.
The game verifies that the canon is at home before it tries to load a ball. It sounds to me like the cannon drifted off home and has to be reset. The most likely cause if the HOME switch threshold is too tight, just adjust it slightly so it has a longer closed range.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Another issue I would love to learn more about. Borg Ship internal lighting. There are (4) lighting circuits within the ship. Left Flashers, Center Flashers, Right Flashers, and Borg Ship (inside) itself. None of this lighting is on any other rows or column.
The flashers are not part of the lighting matrix, they are individually controlled by the PDB.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:Here is the area I was talking about. Some people replace the Borg ship with a Cube version (not my favorite, but that is just me). I was interested if anyone has addressed doing a mod to hide this mechanical crap? With a backboard lighting strip, it shows up, which makes it worse.
If you paint the metal parts flat black they will be hidden from view fairly well. Full disclosure: I have not done this to my machine but chose to return it to its original appearance.
FOLLOW UP on a couple of things:
* My Borg ship internal lighting is working fine. And the brightness is "normal" for the leds used. I was referring to the time used during gameplay isn't much. Certainly the Flashers are the primary light seen. It's not a technical problem as much as understanding why the designed the operation that way.
Rant? Maybe or just ocd interest.
* I wish we could show Zitt some love for his designed STTNG custom designs interactive backboard mod. Possibly if more people knew about his concept mod from several years ago, enough would show interest to make producing the product practical.
* Question: Which is the best Enterprise 1701-D ship to add to the STTNG? Also what are you using to power it? NOTE: I have the LED OCD and GI OCD systems. So the old school GI isn't available. Hallmark wants to use a Legacy Power Cable which people are wanting "stupid" money for. No.
* Suggestions for Pinball Covers for Williams Wide Body? Happ Controls had wonderful covers in the mid/late 90s, but they don't have those anymore. Also read the thread on here about people in the past having troubles with various suppliers.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:FOLLOW UP on a couple of things:
* Suggestions for Pinball Covers for Williams Wide Body? Happ Controls had wonderful covers in the mid/late 90s, but they don't have those anymore. Also read the thread on here about people in the past having troubles with various suppliers.
I have not purchased a Widebody cover from them, but can tell you that the standard cover is very nice and fits great.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:I wish we could show Zitt some love for his designed STTNG custom designs interactive backboard mod. Possibly if more people knew about his concept mod from several years ago, enough would show interest to make producing the product practical.
The backboard mod he's talking about:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stng-a-reargi-prototype
We never got even close to the 50 interested people mark.
Quoted from Zitt:We never got even close to the 50 interested people mark.
I'd love it, but not in those colors. I'd be in for one in pure white.
Quoted from Pahuffman:I'd love it, but not in those colors. I'd be in for one in pure white.
The colors can be changed for the main borg color - by jumper setting. IE blue or Green in the center of the strip. I have mine set for Blue to match the blue windows of the borg ship.
Pure white makes zero sense. How is that better than simple white led strip?
Confused by your statement.
Stockholm
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