(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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#4851 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

You know I saw that, but those aren’t new boards add those? Just looking at all the options.

Yes https://pinballbasement.com/collections/wpc89-boards are new boards made under license - "Genuine Williams and Bally Replacement Boards – Authorized by Planetary Pinball Supply, Inc, under License from Williams Electronics Games Inc, © 2020, All Rights Reserved"

#4852 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

reach out to dumass ...he makes replacement boards with all socketed IC's with some other improvements as well...but he may be backed up a bit...

Name didn’t come up on search. Do you have a link? I’d be interested. Thanks again!

#4853 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Name didn’t come up on search. Do you have a link? I’d be interested. Thanks again!

DumbAss

#4854 3 years ago

I can personally vouch for DumbAss - he's a really great guy. I posted on the forum about a problem I had with one of my machines, and he came to my house to fix it! He did this just to welcome someone new to the hobby and be a good person.

#4855 3 years ago

He and his 16 opto board enabled my STTNG to explore strange new worlds again!

#4856 3 years ago
Quoted from johnpaulstein:

Trying to rebuild an old TNG that is missing a few boards. 2 boards I need are the power driver board and the fliptronics board. Specifically worrying about the 12v drop, because I do intend to put a color DMD and a few mods, what would be a better board to get, a refurbed original, or a Rottendog replacement?

Refurbished original all the way, it will easily handle a color DMD and mods.

#4857 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

reach out to dumass ...he makes replacement boards with all socketed IC's with some other improvements as well

These are very high quality boards, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase one from DumbAss if I ever needed a replacement.

#4858 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Yes https://pinballbasement.com/collections/wpc89-boards are new boards made under license - "Genuine Williams and Bally Replacement Boards – Authorized by Planetary Pinball Supply, Inc, under License from Williams Electronics Games Inc, © 2020, All Rights Reserved"

They obviously used the original component layout for the boards, but since the original specs called for all metal Bridge rectifiers and a heatsink in the 5V and 12V rectifiers to help dissipate the heat it gives me pause.

#4859 3 years ago
Quoted from xeneize:

True story... after owning a STTNG for years, and spending countless hours getting it "perfect", I (stupidly) traded it for a late model (Spike 2) Stern about 8 weeks ago.
Well, the Stern is nice - cool screen, deep code, sweet light show...but it just didn't have the "charm" that STTNG has. I missed it immediately and was sad to have done the trade.
However, sometimes, fate smiles upon you. Received a call from the new STTNG owner who needed cash for GnR and he offered me right of first refusal. So, I immediately drove 5 hours each way AGAIN to buy her back (still have the Stern in the lineup).
Happy to say my absence from the club was brief and that now I am here to stay!

Lesson learned. Never get rid of it. I'm working on 18 years. After all these years I just recently got GI OCD (got LED OCD several years ago). It's primarily used in Borg multiball but it's worth it for that alone.

There's some really satisfying shots on this game that newer games can't touch, like the Picard Maneuver. I've done it during Borg multiball and gotten "the Picard Maneuver, nicely done" stacked with the Borg explosion, and then the "super jackpot" callout.

#4860 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

You should buy the least expensive board and run a separate 12v power supply in the machine. amazon.com link »

On mine the power supply AC is connected at the switch so it powers on with the game. Runs my Pinsound and ColorDMD. Just connect the power supply ground to the ground of the machine. All will be well and you don't have to worry about resets or flaky optos.

IMO this is just bad advice; the original PDB was more than capable of providing enough power on the 12V circuit to run this machine, hell I have a video posts in this forum of my machine running two Color displays simultaneously for comparison testing running on the original 25+ year old Power Driver Board.

Side note, not sure why resets are mentioned here as those are caused by +5V under voltage and a 12V power supply is never going to fix that. Additionally if you ever need help diagnosing problems with your machine this type of modification is going to turn away most folks that would try and help you as it tosses a completely unknown variable into the mix.

#4861 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

IMO this is just bad advice; the original PDB was more than capable of providing enough power on the 12V circuit to run this machine, hell I have a video posts in this forum of my machine running two Color displays simultaneously for comparison testing running on the original 25+ year old Power Driver Board.
Side note, not sure why resets are mentioned here as those are caused by +5V under voltage and a 12V power supply is never going to fix that. Additionally if you ever need help diagnosing problems with your machine this type of modification is going to turn away most folks that would try and help you as it tosses a completely unknown variable into the mix.

Over straining the 12v can give you issues such as weak flippers due to low voltage on the transmitter side of the optos. Obviously if the board is freshly rebuilt it shouldn’t be a problem. The external ps is a completely reversible/removeable add-on. The display and pinsound are connected with splitters anyway. I connected the splitter to the external ps instead of the driver board. I can just connect the splitter to the PDB if I want. BTW I did this because I run Pinsound, Color DMD, Lit buttons, Custom topper(lit), and a few lit toys, all running on 12v. I felt the flippers weren't as snappy as they should be. As is turns out I decided to rebuild them this past week and now they are a bit too snappy lol. I stand by my decision to not over stress the 12v supply.

I definitely never said anything about resets. It would only affect folks running a “no-reset” board which is powered by the 12v supply which is a bad idea to start with(IMHO). If it resets, fix the problem.

#4862 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Over straining the 12v can give you issues such as weak flippers due to low voltage on the transmitter side of the optos. Obviously if the board is freshly rebuilt it shouldn’t be a problem. The external ps is a completely reversible/removeable add-on. The display and pinsound are connected with splitters anyway. I connected the splitter to the external ps instead of the driver board. I can just connect the splitter to the PDB if I want. BTW I did this because I run Pinsound, Color DMD, Lit buttons, Custom topper(lit), and a few lit toys, all running on 12v. I felt the flippers weren't as snappy as they should be. As is turns out I decided to rebuild them this past week and now they are a bit too snappy lol. I stand by my decision to not over stress the 12v supply.
I definitely never said anything about resets. It would only affect folks running a “no-reset” board which is powered by the 12v supply which is a bad idea to start with(IMHO). If it resets, fix the problem.

I freshly rebuilt my board. My STTNG rocks with speed.

#4863 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Over straining the 12v can give you issues such as weak flippers due to low voltage on the transmitter side of the optos.

I’ve never understood this. Isn’t the circuit digital? I assume the optos are driving a transistor that powers the flipper coil? Seems like it should be an on/off situation, without some mid state? To be fair, I haven’t looked at the schematics...

#4864 3 years ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I’ve never understood this. Isn’t the circuit digital? I assume the optos are driving a transistor that powers the flipper coil? Seems like it should be an on/off situation, without some mid state? To be fair, I haven’t looked at the schematics...

You know I've never really given it a ton of thought too but it's definitely true that low 12V will cause weak flippers. This is somewhat similar to how dirty optos or a bad diverter on the flipper opto boards can cause weak flippers, people often don't want to believe it but I've seen it too many times in person.

#4865 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

You know I've never really given it a ton of thought too but it's definitely true that low 12V will cause weak flippers. This is somewhat similar to how dirty optos or a bad diverter on the flipper opto boards can cause weak flippers, people often don't want to believe it but I've seen it too many times in person.

Although we see transistors used as switches in these things, they aren't on/off. They are more like a valve that controls flow and in this case it is driven by the receiving opto. The brighter the light, the more the valve opens. Dirt, bad connection, or low light output from the transmitter(in this case driven by the unregulated 12v) will cause low power to the flippers.

Unregulated means the voltage goes down as you increase the power demand. This is normal. This is also why you can have 13-14v volts with no demand. When you start dipping below 12v on that circuit then you either need to boost the output (usually by replacing dried out caps and/or bad connectors) or reduce the demand. However the higher you can keep it the stronger the flippers will be. Hence my original comment about supplying a separate 12v for the added accessories as the original design did not factor this extra demand.

Low unregulated 12v can also cause phantom triggering on optos but that's a whole other problem. My Dr Who was triggering ALL optos for a few milliseconds almost every time a coil(or flippers) would fire. In my case it was a combination of many things causing the low voltage.

#4866 3 years ago

I suppose that makes sense. Really a transistor is a current amplifier, right? So lower voltage means less current - ohms law. It’s been 20 years since I took classes on electronics...

#4867 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Although we see transistors used as switches in these things, they aren't on/off. They are more like a valve that controls flow and in this case it is driven by the receiving opto. The brighter the light, the more the valve opens. Dirt, bad connection, or low light output from the transmitter(in this case driven by the unregulated 12v) will cause low power to the flippers.
Unregulated means the voltage goes down as you increase the power demand. This is normal. This is also why you can have 13-14v volts with no demand. When you start dipping below 12v on that circuit then you either need to boost the output (usually by replacing dried out caps and/or bad connectors) or reduce the demand. However the higher you can keep it the stronger the flippers will be. Hence my original comment about supplying a separate 12v for the added accessories as the original design did not factor this extra demand.
Low unregulated 12v can also cause phantom triggering on optos but that's a whole other problem. My Dr Who was triggering ALL optos for a few milliseconds almost every time a coil(or flippers) would fire. In my case it was a combination of many things causing the low voltage.

If the opto circuit directly drove the coil circuit this would all be very cut and dry but since it's actually a signal to the switch matrix and the coil circuits are controlled and driven by TTL logic controlled by the CPU it's less clear why this happens. The switch matrix is, in theory at least, a binary state; open or closed. I suspect what really happens is that the dirty or under-powered opto circuit creates a rapidly toggling state on the switch matrix that causes the same type of drive from the CPU / TTL logic to the coil circuit.

#4868 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

If the opto circuit directly drove the coil circuit this would all be very cut and dry but since it's actually a signal to the switch matrix and the coil circuits are controlled and driven by TTL logic controlled by the CPU it's less clear why this happens. The switch matrix is, in theory at least, a binary state; open or closed. I suspect what really happens is that the dirty or under-powered opto circuit creates a rapidly toggling state on the switch matrix that causes the same type of drive from the CPU / TTL logic to the coil circuit.

I’ve never had a problem with the optos so I didn’t even know it was tied into the switch matrix. Knowing that makes it even more odd. Your theory would seem to be the only logical theory, but I would think that the programmers would have denounced the inputs? Something still doesn’t smell right about it. I’ve always been a bit skeptical of the “clean the optos” theory though...

#4869 3 years ago
Quoted from PinJim:

I’ve never had a problem with the optos so I didn’t even know it was tied into the switch matrix. Knowing that makes it even more odd. Your theory would seem to be the only logical theory, but I would think that the programmers would have denounced the inputs? Something still doesn’t smell right about it. I’ve always been a bit skeptical of the “clean the optos” theory though...

I know it seems counter-intuitive but again I've seen it too many times to know it's not true. The white interrupters are also notorious for causing iffy flipper performance.

#4870 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I definitely never said anything about resets.

I could have misread your post

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Just connect the power supply ground to the ground of the machine. All will be well and you don't have to worry about resets or flaky optos.

or maybe not...

Quoted from MrMikeman:

It would only affect folks running a “no-reset” board which is powered by the 12v supply which is a bad idea to start with(IMHO). If it resets, fix the problem.

The Khar "no-reset" board would be powered by the 12VR switch matrix voltage, I'm assuming your not connecting an external power supply to both the Regulated and unregulated 12V circuits. I agree 100% that the Khar board is a bad idea and the game should be fixed properly.

Side note: The ColorDMD LED display draws SIGNIFICANTLY less power that the LCD version and with both displays in the machine as well as a couple Hallmark ships the 12VU circuit was close to its maximum rated specification; no degradation of flipper power was noticed and I was able to reach the Final Frontier on ball 2 after playing for around 15 min. The 12VU section of my Power Driver board is original to the machine and has never been rebuilt.

#4871 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I know it seems counter-intuitive but again I've seen it too many times to know it's not true. The white interrupters are also notorious for causing iffy flipper performance.

Pin_Guy you are the recognized authority here. What’s your take on this?

#4872 3 years ago

Hello, still having random top drop target issues (ball lock on trigger fire doesn't always count lock but does light lock). Switch status when game starts is closed and not up. I believe that is my issue. Can someone confirm that switch should be open and the drop target in the upright position when starting a game? If so, do I have a bad switch or maybe bad connection?

TIA, I'm losing my mind !

#4873 3 years ago

The default when you power up the game and start a game is that the drop target is down. It pops up when you select things like warp factor four mode etc.

There are clearly some geniuses who contribute to this so I’ll give you my layman’s point of you. The answer in my opinion is usually the obvious one which 9 times out of ten is either mechanical or broken or cold solder joints.

9FED1CC5-1457-41F6-AA9C-4F03557BEF3C (resized).jpeg9FED1CC5-1457-41F6-AA9C-4F03557BEF3C (resized).jpeg
#4874 3 years ago

To add to this, holodeck doesn't launch either at times when plunged. Both always work when shot with flipper!

#4875 3 years ago
Quoted from holminone:

broken or cold solder joints

Bad spot for this as the mech seems to rattle around a lot. Mine had the same issue at one point.

#4876 3 years ago
Quoted from Rkrall:

Hello, still having random top drop target issues (ball lock on trigger fire doesn't always count lock but does light lock).

Quoted from Rkrall:

To add to this, holodeck doesn't launch either at times when plunged. Both always work when shot with flipper!

Lock will be lit by dropping the drop target (switch #57), whereas getting the actual lock or launching holodeck is triggered by the top hole opto (switch #45). Can you check that switch 45 is working - in switch test mode drop a ball in the top hole, you will get multiple switches being triggered as the ball goes through the subway however the first switch triggered should be 45. I'm wondering whether the game is compensating for a failed switch during game play, but not at ball launch.

#4877 3 years ago
Quoted from PinJim:

@pin_guy you are the recognized authority here. What’s your take on this?

I have to agree with @bobukcat, the white interrupters don't seem to fit properly and IMO shouldn't be used in this title.

When I started the restoration on my STTNG I did have a white interrupter installed and the flipper on that side did seem to have some seemingly intermittent issues; I did replace that part with a black one and had no further issues.

Before restoration:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

After restoration:
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#4878 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Lock will be lit by dropping the drop target (switch #57), whereas getting the actual lock or launching holodeck is triggered by the top hole opto (switch #45). Can you check that switch 45 is working - in switch test mode drop a ball in the top hole, you will get multiple switches being triggered as the ball goes through the subway however the first switch triggered should be 45. I'm wondering whether the game is compensating for a failed switch during game play, but not at ball launch.

Quoted from Manny65:

Lock will be lit by dropping the drop target (switch #57), whereas getting the actual lock or launching holodeck is triggered by the top hole opto (switch #45). Can you check that switch 45 is working - in switch test mode drop a ball in the top hole, you will get multiple switches being triggered as the ball goes through the subway however the first switch triggered should be 45. I'm wondering whether the game is compensating for a failed switch during game play, but not at ball launch.

Confirmed, 45 registers everytime as the ball enters

#4879 3 years ago
Quoted from Rkrall:

Confirmed, 45 registers everytime as the ball enters

All optos register as well

#4880 3 years ago

I'm wondering if the white interrupters are translucent to IR emitted light... which is why they don't work.
You could try spray painting the interrupter blocker or using nail polish to block the IR light from the LEDs in the emitters.

#4881 3 years ago
Quoted from Rkrall:

Hello, still having random top drop target issues (ball lock on trigger fire doesn't always count lock but does light lock). Switch status when game starts is closed and not up. I believe that is my issue. Can someone confirm that switch should be open and the drop target in the upright position when starting a game? If so, do I have a bad switch or maybe bad connection?
TIA, I'm losing my mind !

Sounds like a bad or poorly alined switch on the drop target to me.

#4882 3 years ago

Question about adding the Lasers for the cannons. Originally, I didn't think I was going to install this MOD. That said, I went ahead and set Back Alley Creations my Cannon Covers to paint. Upon further consideration, I think the Lasers would be cool. Here's the stupid thing. To my educated surprise, the Laser Cannon Covers seem to NOT be identical to my original ones. By looking at photos, the ones being sold with the MOD has a specific slot for the laser unit to "live" in. Is this correct?? So if I decide to upgrade to the laser modification, my old, newly painted covers can't be used. Right?

#4883 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Sounds like a bad or poorly alined switch on the drop target to me.

Thanks I'm almost ready to rip that entire thing out and clean/resolder everything!

#4884 3 years ago
Quoted from Rkrall:

Thanks I'm almost ready to rip that entire thing out and clean/resolder everything!

Thought you had already fixed your drop target - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/97#post-5983872

If it is still causing issues, then the easiest way to work on it is to remove the entire mech and give it the full once over

#4885 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Thought you had already fixed your drop target - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/97#post-5983872
If it is still causing issues, then the easiest way to work on it is to remove the entire mech and give it the full once over

I thought I did too. Going to rip it out then.

#4886 3 years ago

Has anyone considered making a Speaker Panel Mod with LEDs to light up the panel indicators?? Super cool mod which would need a wire harness to run below the playfield and tie into some connections to activate the indicator leds.

Anyone know anyone who has done this before? I once did a mod on an Indiana Jones panel for the 3 treasures (made on the prototype model).

Screenshot 2020-12-14 014220 (resized).jpgScreenshot 2020-12-14 014220 (resized).jpg
#4887 3 years ago

I’d buy it!

#4888 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Question about adding the Lasers for the cannons. Originally, I didn't think I was going to install this MOD. That said, I went ahead and set Back Alley Creations my Cannon Covers to paint. Upon further consideration, I think the Lasers would be cool. Here's the stupid thing. To my educated surprise, the Laser Cannon Covers seem to NOT be identical to my original ones. By looking at photos, the ones being sold with the MOD has a specific slot for the laser unit to "live" in. Is this correct?? So if I decide to upgrade to the laser modification, my old, newly painted covers can't be used. Right?

You would be correct, as there is a notch in the housings to fit the laser. I guess you could try cutting out a notch for the laser to fit but I wouldn't bother with that. Lasers look cool but have little practical use imo.

#4889 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Has anyone considered making a Speaker Panel Mod with LEDs to light up the panel indicators?? Super cool mod which would need a wire harness to run below the playfield and tie into some connections to activate the indicator leds.
Anyone know anyone who has done this before? I once did a mod on an Indiana Jones panel for the 3 treasures (made on the prototype model).[quoted image]

I have done it.
Here is the short version of what I have done:
First I have the complete panel recreated inAdobe Illustrator by hand so that I have the opportunity to illuminate only certian areas.
When I did it I had not found a good printing company who was willing to print me the black blockout mask directly on to the panel in one step so I had to foil it by hand. Now I have found a company who is able to do it.
Than I built the speakerpanel base from arcylic, painted it white and than black. If you intall led stripes on the top and bottom it will illuminate very well.
Beware that you can't use the original speakergrill as it would make a huge shadow so just redraw the logo and repaint some plastic pc speaker grills which are perfekt for the project. Put everything back together and you will have a perfekt speakerpanel that nearly nobody else has
I posted the makeover of my sttng so you can see how it looks installed.
If you have any questions feel free to ask.

sttng_speakerpanel_001 (resized).jpgsttng_speakerpanel_001 (resized).jpgsttng_speakerpanel_002 (resized).jpgsttng_speakerpanel_002 (resized).jpgsttng_speakerpanel_003 (resized).jpgsttng_speakerpanel_003 (resized).jpg
#4890 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Question about adding the Lasers for the cannons. Originally, I didn't think I was going to install this MOD. That said, I went ahead and set Back Alley Creations my Cannon Covers to paint. Upon further consideration, I think the Lasers would be cool. Here's the stupid thing. To my educated surprise, the Laser Cannon Covers seem to NOT be identical to my original ones. By looking at photos, the ones being sold with the MOD has a specific slot for the laser unit to "live" in. Is this correct?? So if I decide to upgrade to the laser modification, my old, newly painted covers can't be used. Right?

Eric,

You are correct, the original cannon covers are not designed to except my proprietary laser and wiring harness....I redesigned the covers to except the laser and I also enhanced the raised portions on the top/sides, improved plastic, perfect original color and I made the rear screw hole slots with a bit more play...

I could send Matt my covers to paint for you if wanted.

Thanks,

Mick
mickspinball.com

#4891 3 years ago

Yes, the new cover design has "holders" and a cutout for the laser mod built within the design. Plus the dome cover hold size issue has been addressed. Wished I had considered all this before sending off my covers to Back Alley for painting. Likely would have purchased the Laser kit and sent those covers instead.

Who knows, I may still. Im in to restoring this STTNG bigtime in $$$ now anyway, (color dmd, pinsound complete system, new rottendog power driver board, new rottendog 8 mini driver board, new rottendog flipper board, new 16 opto board, new ball trough opto boards, new speaker panel, GI OCD board, LED OCD board, complete led overhaul, new ramp, etc.
augh

#4892 3 years ago

LOVE the effort behind the speaker panel mod. OMG Interested in the mechanics of lighting the thing. Also the mechanics of how or if you dealt with the original backboard. After installing the new heavier plastic speaker cover, and a color dmd, my original U CHANNEL would not allow me to seat the speaker panel down. I ended up going to Home Depot and getting a shelf bracket which worked perfectly, and cut and remounted that. Had to paint it black however.

#4893 3 years ago

Does anyone know if there is a way to lower the back box lighting behind the translite? I get so much reflection on the glass it’s crazy. The original bulbs were replaced with LEDs. I’m even happy to use lower wattage bulbs if that helps.

#4894 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Does anyone know if there is a way to lower the back box lighting behind the translite? I get so much reflection on the glass it’s crazy. The original bulbs were replaced with LEDs. I’m even happy to use lower wattage bulbs if that helps.

If you go with the GI OCD board...you can change the intensity of the lamps....the LED OCD board as well....you'll probably need both as I believe there are both strands of lights on the back board....plus flashers...

#4895 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

If you go with the GI OCD board...you can change the intensity of the lamps....the LED OCD board as well....you'll probably need both as I believe there are both strands of lights on the back board....plus flashers...

I believe you only need the GI OCD board to make that possible. Not difficult to do once you get the program and connect your computer to the board. PLus you get the awesome shield dimming back if you are using LEDs.

#4896 3 years ago
Quoted from Jherre6:

Does anyone know if there is a way to lower the back box lighting behind the translite? I get so much reflection on the glass it’s crazy. The original bulbs were replaced with LEDs. I’m even happy to use lower wattage bulbs if that helps.

Cheapest solution is the plastic shield.

https://www.pinballlife.com/widebody-bent-plastic.html

BTW i use all of the above lol. The shield, LED OCD, and GI OCD.

#4897 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Cheapest solution is the plastic shield.
https://www.pinballlife.com/widebody-bent-plastic.html
BTW i use all of the above lol. The shield, LED OCD, and GI OCD.

Nope the cheapest solution is to use only half the bulbs it requires, and use 1smds in the holes you fill

I had that same thing in my NGG when I bought it, was loaded with 4 SMD Comet bulbs

#4898 3 years ago

I’m trying to troubleshoot why my “Return to Duty” flasher isn’t working.

Swapped bulbs, checked voltage, no luck yet. Does anyone see something wrong on the board?

9E5E943C-752D-4AE2-8C88-F415C7F70651 (resized).jpeg9E5E943C-752D-4AE2-8C88-F415C7F70651 (resized).jpegADDD53A2-0C54-4D45-BF99-042AD9A88361 (resized).jpegADDD53A2-0C54-4D45-BF99-042AD9A88361 (resized).jpeg
#4899 3 years ago

My machine is MISSING this part. Can anyone help me with the PART NUMBER or NUMBER (s) of what this is?? Star Trek Next Generation outer loop gate.

I have the manual and everything, but can't identify the part. Also I know the gate is a "one way" gate. Certainly I would be interested to know how this might impact game play and such.
Thanks all you super cool pin people!!!

Inkedsttng_bumperclean_LI (resized).jpgInkedsttng_bumperclean_LI (resized).jpg
#4900 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I’m trying to troubleshoot why my “Return to Duty” flasher isn’t working.
Swapped bulbs, checked voltage, no luck yet. Does anyone see something wrong on the board?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Reflow the header pins and the leads to the bulb holder. That should get you going again.

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Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Haus
 
$ 399.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 9.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
 
$ 15.95
Lighting - Led
Mitchell Lighting
 
$ 173.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
From: $ 25.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Invasion
 
$ 29.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
6,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Los Angeles, CA
$ 25.99
Lighting - Led
Lee's Parts
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 64.99
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
 
$ 1,059.00
Pinball Machine
Mircoplayfields
 
$ 22.50
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
$ 1.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
 
$ 449.00
Cabinet - Decals
Mircoplayfields
 
6,500 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Portland, OR
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