St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

Your white/purple wire is broken off....look closely in the pic you posted

Aha. So it is. I'll get that fixed tonight . Does everything else look right?

You have a small hack that was done, probably to replace a broken target reset plate.
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Thank you. These pictures help alot.

Here are some random pictures of my top drop target assembly.

I was having some issues that I believe were related to the switch arm being too short and getting stuck under the metal plate.

The arm that pushes the drop target to drop it down was also farther away than it should have been.

There are some side by side pics of a new assembly next to the original assembly.

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Sorry for the silly question. Does anyone have a photo of the optimum flipper placements. My left is shooting to the left too much, but would like to see others before I adjust.

Use the alignment holes - they will get you good results.

completely do not know. So appreciate the patience. I’ve read those are just rough guides, is that not the case? Would someone please post a photo of how one is? I’ve read top of the flipper lining up, bottom and middle. Thanks everyone

I stick a toothpick between the rubber and flipper bat down into the hole to align and hold the flipper while I tighten it underneath. I've also used an allen wrench that fit into the hole. Works for me.

On these Williams machines, I use a toothpick in the hole under (ie on the low side not underneath) the flipper pressed down to meet it (without a rubber on the flipper). That should align the flipper so it’s drooping a hair under the line from the inlane. Some prefer the flipper to be perfectly aligned with the inlane, but it’s just personal preference. A tiny amount of drop guarantees the ball will always roll smoothly and is how they were set at the factory (as far as I know).

Thanks both of you. Buy yourself a beer, on me.

Why would my left flipper not work when selecting things from a menu, but always works perfectly to actually flip? Lately the left flipper doesn’t register in menus or to move the lights in the upper lane dividers unless I hit the button hard. Flipping works 100% of the time tho. I’ve cleaned the optos and checked the wiring - no obvious issues.

The reason the actuator arm on the drop target coil is sitting too far out is that the bracket is broken - see the red circles compare the original with the new assembly. Part is A-14913 the long slim piece of steel on the bracket is bent around to hold the actuator arm in place - this bit tends to break off (like on yours). Note some to the replacement version of this part don't have the brass ring (used near coils to stop becoming magnetised) so I'd go one like this http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-A-14913

Also you original drop target has a home made reset plate (blue circle), which you should replace at the same. Part is 01-10380

sttng dt (resized).jpg

I don't think the switch actuator arm is too short, rather you may need to adjust the angle to the switch such that the actuator arm is lower (note the position of the 2 switch arms between the old and new drop targets - see the green cricles)

sttng dt1 (resized).jpg

Most likely a bad opto interruptor, swap the left and right or just replace it. Could be a failing opto too but that seems less likely since it works when you're hitting it harder.

I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'll ask again: has anyone experienced issues where the trigger doesn't reliably fire the canon shots? I never have an issue at ball launch, only randomly when firing canons.

Wow, thanks for all of that info! It’s very helpful. I would have never noticed the items you pointed out.

I would suspect that the cannon wiring looms have breaks in the wire to the firing coil that are only making contact at certain points of the rotation. Maybe time for new looms?

Hi folks, I continue on my multi-year dialing-in of my STTNG. Previous posts mentioned I rebuilt the power board, replaced ribbon cables, cleaned out the troughs, replaced a broken left flipper opto, and set the playfield angle to 6.5 degrees among other things.

The game plays, but feel the flippers are weak - right top side I can rarely/barely make it up the Delta ramp and left orbit is lazy; left flipper has difficulty getting into mission start. I did rebuild these (coil sleeves, links, the usual from the kit), even though they seemed to be ok, and it didn't make a difference. Read through a few threads, did some preliminary info gathering and wondering what else I should try.

The coils are 11629s, I didn't replace these but they do seem to have been replaced at some point (they look new). The 50V test point is coming in at 69.2VDC. Voltage at both bottom coils are ~43vdc when triggered at rest (is that low?). I checked the EOS switches but it didn't seem off (and weird that would affect all three flippers).

What else should I check?

STTNG-FlipperCoils (resized).jpg

My flipper voltages for all my B/W games is usually around the 78v range
..seems a bit low to me...have you replaced your caps on this circuit off the bridge.

How is the 12VDC supply, do the cannons rotate quickly? Check your outlet voltage as well, these games are very sensitive to low power input from the wall.

This reply led me down the right path. I'm guessing the connector to the flipper button board might have been borderline. Before I even took anything apart regarding the flipper itself, I removed the flipper button board to clean the optos and make sure all was well there since it's the easier place to start. I noticed the plastic of the mating connector on the board was weak to the point of almost falling apart when touched. I should think about replacing it but I'd rather not break out the soldering iron if I don't have to. I just need the connector to stay solidly in place for now.

I cleaned the optos, screwed the board back in, and reconnected it. The sound when holding down the flipper was gone. I gave it a go and the flipper was at full strength! Well, until about 10 shots later when it went completely dead.

I opened it back up and saw my flipper board had completely dislodged from the cabinet and was hanging by just the bottom screw. The flipper button was now pressing air. The top screw hole had just worn away so there was no grip to hold the screw solidly in place. I think this had been a gradual deterioration. I had been having intermittent issues with the secondary left button activation for some time which is only noticeable in things like shuttle mode or selecting the ball start options. However, the flipper itself had always fired just fine even with those issues cropping up on the secondary opto. That issue was probably also related to poor connector engagement. Maybe the loose-fitting board (due to the bad screw hole) was shaking around that much more which made the connection more prone to fail or reach a bad state. This time it just led to the strange sound and poor flipper strength.

In any event, I filled the hole with toothpicks and wood glue, let it dry, drilled a pilot hole (carefully), and screwed the board back in. It's been working perfectly ever since!

That's for the tips! This is all definitely a learning process, but also a rewarding one. Most of you probably would have found this issue in minutes while I was left with an unplayable machine for a month thinking I had a bigger problem. I'm just happy it's back! I should have posted sooner.

This is a best practice and will last for a VERY long time; your fixed hole is likely at least as strong as the original plywood was.

Thanks for the tip. My new interrupter arrived and it’s working great now!

The behavior came back (one of the flipper optos not registering), and it took me a while to figure out why. In case someone is debugging in the future:

One of the resistors had a failed solder joint on my opto board. Hitting the button hard and moving things around when I replaced the interrupter was enough to sometimes jiggle the resistor lead onto the edge of the through-hole. I resoldered it and now it’s 100% reliable.

Yes, replaced Bridge Rectifiers and clip-caps on the Power Driver board.

I checked 12vdc at the power driver board and it was ok. Didn't check Wall voltage and will do so next time I'm near the machine.

I pulled the Fliptronic II board itself out to measure the diodes in the bridge rectifier there -
across the two ac inputs it's open.
AC input to + is 0.530
AC input to - is 0.523

Since a diode reading between .4 and .6 is ok, guessing the rectifier is fine, even though its mounted bent. (see pic).

Fusess checked out ok as well. What else could be causing weak flippers?

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Whats your AC voltage going into the rectifier? I would measure it at the fuse, and then at the IDC connector as well ...they should be the same, but if your IDC connector is an issue(and they suck)that may be something you may want to look at. Your post rectifier voltage is really dependent on the incoming voltage from the transformer so that's a place to look too...

I finished restoring my newly acquired TNG - I changed a few things from stock based on personal preference, but they are easily reversible if I want to go back at any point.

Full custom set of Comet LEDs (I went through a lot of bulbs to get the look I wanted), LED OCD, GI OCD, ColorDMD, PDI glass, PDI mirror blades, Flipper Fidelity speakers, Pinsub output, Kahr daughterboard (sue me - I like the added reliability), star post LEDs, Comet Matrix spot for lower playfield, cleaned top and bottom including a deep scrub of the borg ship, fixed up the cannons so they are fast and powerful, re-soldered several PCB components to address failing connections, cleaned and lubricated all moving metal parts, metal lane extenders, new coil sleeves, rebuilt flippers including bushings and bats, Perfect Play rings all around, acrylic borg windows, lit bird of prey, new playfield plastics for anything bent or broken, purple pops and lane dividers with a modified cap for the third pop, purple posts, backbox bolts, new balls, and a keyless lock.

I'm happy with the results, but now I kind of need a new project!

The first picture is with the glass on - love that PDI glass.

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Wow, you didn’t waste any time getting it all fixed up! That’s a nice lineup you have there.

I like working on them as much as playing - sometimes more. I offered to restore my neighbors TZ just so I could have a project, but I think he wants to do it himself.

I'd let you do mine!

Man I wish you were local to me! I have a long list of games I'm trying to fix up. Hell, I'd give you a game to work on and another one as a loaner to play in your free time.

Does anyone have a sttng for sale in Ontario Canada? Please let me know I would love to join the club.

Into the Fliptronics, for the wire at Fliptronics J901 is measuring 51.8VAC; this is fed from J104 at the power board, the voltage there is 52.0VAC. Not too much drop across the IDCs.

At the test wall plug inside the machine I'm getting 116VAC (this is my wall voltage).

More info - the 13.1VDC was measured at Power Board TP1, which led me to think 12VDC is fine - I think it's not because...
I looked into the 5VDC and 12VDC into the Fliptronics (J904-1 and J904-2 respectively), they're reading 4.99VDC and 11.89VDC respectively.

I didn't realize the other 12V line is off TP3, which is kinda low in alignment with what I'm seeing at the Fliptronics board - 11.89VDC. The power board was rebuilt with new bridge rectifiers and snap on caps. What else would I need to look at for this to come up some?

The 13.1 is your unregulated 12v, that looks fine...I'm at work right now and I'll have to pull out the schematics to look at the Fliptronics board and diagram tomorrow. The regulated 12v is a bit low....when you changed your caps did you also replace the small ones too? off the 5v regulator and 12 V (the 7812 i believe). Do you have a lot of 12 powered mods that may be taxing the regulator? I use these regulators https://www.ezsbc.com/product/psu3-12/ lower heat output. Either way that shouldn't cause your flippers voltage to drop so much. I'll give you some voltages off my machine too...( just happen to have it open)

Does anyone know where I can buy a set of the metal lane extenders? Thanks! Mìke

The only place I know of is Pinball.Center but they don't ship to the USA.
If they are the only vendor (I think they are); I'm doing a .

Want to say thanks for the guidance and help provided so far. You've been great!

I used the Marco Power Board rebuild which had these parts, nothing else changed:
KBPC3504W(5 pieces) BR1, BR2, BR3, BR4, BR5
C15KM25VR capacitors (5 pieces) C5, C6, C&, C11
C100M200VR capacitor (1 piece) C8

The STTNG is stock incandescent, before the power board rebuild I had a lot of reset problems that have since gone away.

Q2 is the LM7812 12vdc voltage regulator - might consider replacing that with the PSU3-12? Would I keep the heatsink and related capacitors?

Attached the diagram, which caps should I take a look at? Pinwiki says C6 and C7 smooth out the unregulated 12v, replaced when I rebuilt the power board. I've got a ESR tester that can give me an idea of what may be off...
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I know that jakusu was looking at having some made up for sale 6 months ago - send him a PM

I saw them on ebay a couple weeks ago...

it sounds like you've replaced them all, you don't need the heatsink on the PSU2-12. I'll check those voltages later for you and shoot you a PM.

I just ordered a set of these.

ebay.com link

Curious what everyone is using for art blades? I've seen the ones from retro refurbs, but looking for pics with them on a game. I really like their alt translite.

Personally, I prefer mirror blades. I purchased mine from Cointaker (https://cointaker.com/products/bally-slash-williams-dmd-mirror-blades-641d4844-5457-4d63-a1f9-7d32d771e681). I feel it really expands the playfield and looks great. When you talk about the translite, do you mean this one? (https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/star-trek-the-next-generation-characters-alternate-pinball-translite/)
If so, I just ordered it a few days ago. It was made by a fellow pinsider, and I think it looks great!

Yes, that's the company for the alt translite. I personally prefer the non-character version, but both look WAY better than stock. Thanks for the links.

I've been looking for these too, thanks for the link, ordered! Pinball Center is out of stock and has been for a long time.

Does anyone have a good scan of the default translite picture? I'd like to photoshop my kids into it and hang it in their room. They've actually gotten pretty good at the game (3 and 6) and i know they'd love it. The only ones I've found are medium resolution at best.

thanks!

May as well drop by and pick up a backlit translite frame for it . Cool idea!

Has anyone cut out "Engage" into this spinner holder? I've seen the sticker, but wondering if there is a way to cut out the letters in the metal - possibly even a way to uplight the letters with frosted acrylic backing underneath? Maybe there's no room to light it up with the spinner in the way, but laser cutout "Engage" could be cool.

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Not available. One would have to recreate the bracket with the letters cut out. Sounds prohibitively expensive.

I'm sure Mantis could make it....pretty straight forward....is that supposed to be mounted on the rear hole btw?