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(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



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  • 365 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 223 Pinsiders

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There are 4713 posts in this topic. You are on page 92 of 95.
#4551 55 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

A new connector is the way to go

Thanks. Ordering it.

#4552 54 days ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

So yes. J120 was all burnt up. Should I order a new connector or move the wires to j121?

When a connector burns like that you really should replace both the connector and the header. That being said, I've seen boards that were severely damaged by folks that was "fairly certain" or "pretty sure" they could replace the header. Unless you know for a fact you can do it because you've replaced dozens or hundreds of headers just like it ... you may not want to try it.

While it will work if you just move the wires to J121 it's less than ideal; but is still better than damaging the board.

#4553 54 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

When a connector burns like that you really should replace both the connector and the header. That being said, I've seen boards that were severely damaged by folks that was "fairly certain" or "pretty sure" they could replace the header. Unless you know for a fact you can do it because you've replaced dozens or hundreds of headers just like it ... you may not want to try it.
While it will work if you just move the wires to J121 it's less than ideal; but is still better than damaging the board.

Thanks for all your help.

#4554 54 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

When a connector burns like that you really should replace both the connector and the header. That being said, I've seen boards that were severely damaged by folks that was "fairly certain" or "pretty sure" they could replace the header. Unless you know for a fact you can do it because you've replaced dozens or hundreds of headers just like it ... you may not want to try it.
While it will work if you just move the wires to J121 it's less than ideal; but is still better than damaging the board.

Header replacement isn’t that bad...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/board-header-replacement-my-method

#4555 54 days ago

I have been chasing gremlins on my newly acquired STTNG all day and found this. Notice anything wrong with this picture?

20200831_114929 (resized).jpg
#4556 53 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I have been chasing gremlins on my newly acquired STTNG all day and found this. Notice anything wrong with this picture?
[quoted image]

Diode direction needs to be swapped and the white-blue wires switched to the other terminal as well

Pinball switch with diode wiring (resized).png
#4557 51 days ago

I am sure this has been debated ad nauseam, but am about to pull the trigger on a color dmd. I am a fan of the Hi-Res on some pins (Dirty Harry, Shadow) and also love the brightness and dots with led (Star Trek, T2). I am leaning towards LCD so I can have Dots-XL and Hi-Res but would like others opinions on what they chose. Does anyone have Hi-Res on their STTNG and does it look good? Or does the brightness of the LED version make it a better choice?

#4558 51 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I am sure this has been debated ad nauseam, but am about to pull the trigger on a color dmd. I am a fan of the Hi-Res on some pins (Dirty Harry, Shadow) and also love the brightness and dots with led (Star Trek, T2). I am leaning towards LCD so I can have Dots-XL and Hi-Res but would like others opinions on what they chose. Does anyone have Hi-Res on their STTNG and does it look good? Or does the brightness of the LED version make it a better choice?

I have the LED Color DMD on mine. I think it looks better on this machine. I personally think classic Bally Williams look better with the LED and Stern looks better with LCD.

#4559 51 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I am sure this has been debated ad nauseam, but am about to pull the trigger on a color dmd. I am a fan of the Hi-Res on some pins (Dirty Harry, Shadow) and also love the brightness and dots with led (Star Trek, T2). I am leaning towards LCD so I can have Dots-XL and Hi-Res but would like others opinions on what they chose. Does anyone have Hi-Res on their STTNG and does it look good? Or does the brightness of the LED version make it a better choice?

I posted a short video of mine on HiRes a page or two back. It's my preference for this game, MM, WH2O and some other classics.

#4560 51 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I posted a short video of mine on HiRes a page or two back. It's my preference for this game, MM, WH2O and some other classics.

Thank you, I apologize for the inquiry as this discussion was recently discussed only one page back, LOL.

#4561 51 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I am leaning towards LCD so I can have Dots-XL and Hi-Res but would like others opinions on what they chose.

I'll make you the same offer I made to others, if you buy the ColorLED and decide you don't like it, I will do a 1 for 1 swap with you for one of my Color LCD displays.

I'm sure you will love it though, and so far no one has taken me up on this.

#4562 51 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:I'll make you the same offer I made to others, if you buy the ColorLED and decide you don't like it, I will do a 1 for 1 swap with you for one of my Color LCD displays.
I'm sure you will love it though, and so far no one has taken me up on this.

Consider it a deal. I will order the led version then.

#4563 51 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Consider it a deal. I will order the led version then.

You will love it! Heck, If you do take me up on this I'll even install the STTNG firmware in the LCD for you to make it plug and play

#4564 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You will love it! Heck, If you do take me up on this I'll even install the STTNG firmware in the LCD for you to make it plug and play

I received the led colordmd today and it looks terrific. Over the weekend I put the lcd colordmd in it from one of my other pins and I love it just as much. Here is the problem. After installation, I noticed a problem with my right upper flipper and my right cannon being slow and weak. I could barely make it up the warp ramp. So I replaced BR5 and C30 in hopes to get more 12v. It helped but still the issues persist. I have cleaned the optos, cannon shafts, and flushed the gear boxes and re-lubed. There are no other mods that use 12v. I am out of ideas.

I will trade with you, but I would like to be able to solve this issue. Any help would be appreciated.

#4565 47 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

I will trade with you, but I would like to be able to solve this issue. Any help would be appreciated.

After installation of the ColorLCD? I ask this as the LCD version uses significantly more power than the LED version. Regardless, the machine should have enough power to drive either one, and my machine was capable of driving them both at the same time and played great, but I know I was right on the edge of over tasking the 12VUR circuit when I did this.

What are you measuring at TP1?

#4566 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

After installation of the ColorLCD? I ask this as the LCD version uses significantly more power than the LED version. Regardless, the machine should have enough power to drive either one, and my machine was capable of driving them both at the same time and played great, but I know I was right on the edge of over tasking the 12VUR circuit when I did this.
What are you measuring at TP1?

After replacing BR5 and C30 with the stock dmd, I was registering 13v with my meter in attract mode. With the lcd, I was getting a solid 12v which I assume would be sufficient. But when the lcd/led installed, the right cannon in particular would run at a much slower speed. I will admit, the right cannon runs slower from the beginning, but with the color dmd installed, it is worse. I will look into the motor and clean the comm if possible. As for the upper flipper, it may just be my imagination, but i swear I cannot hit the ramp as easily. I don't know.

#4567 46 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

After replacing BR5 and C30 with the stock dmd, I was registering 13v with my meter in attract mode. With the lcd, I was getting a solid 12v which I assume would be sufficient. But when the lcd/led installed, the right cannon in particular would run at a much slower speed. I will admit, the right cannon runs slower from the beginning, but with the color dmd installed, it is worse. I will look into the motor and clean the comm if possible. As for the upper flipper, it may just be my imagination, but i swear I cannot hit the ramp as easily. I don't know.

I’ve been having a similar problem except with my opto’s. It seems to be more common than most games on STTNG simply because of how packed it is.

As for the cannon, as I’m sure Pin_Guy will tell you, the motor likely isn’t the issue. Remove the plate holding the long metal tube(?) connecting the cannon to the white crank arm. It likely will take some effort to get out if it’s dirty. Clean it and line everything back up exactly as you found it. Somehow, I misaligned something during my cleaning and broke the small crank arm which was not fun to replace.

#4568 46 days ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

the small crank arm which was not fun to replace

actually it can be a major PITA to get the roll pin out of the motor, I feel your pain.

#4569 45 days ago

Am I crazy? I ordered the CPR mirrored back glass for STTNG after installing one in my Indiana Jones. Indys looks phenomenal but the mirrored back glass I got for star trek seems very washed out compared to even my beat up original translite. I don't think I missed any plastic wrap or anything covering it. Does it look just bad to you? Seems very blurry and washed out to me. Thoughts?

20200910_124952 (resized).jpg20200910_125000 (resized).jpg20200910_125005 (resized).jpg20200910_125008 (resized).jpg

#4570 45 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Am I crazy? I ordered the CPR mirrored back glass for STTNG after installing one in my Indiana Jones. Indys looks phenomenal but the mirrored back glass I got for star trek seems very washed out compared to even my beat up original translite. I don't think I missed any plastic wrap or anything covering it. Does it look just bad to you? Seems very blurry and washed out to me. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The back glass is in the machine, translite in my hand

#4571 45 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

The back glass is in the machine, translite in my hand

Quoted from Digduglus:

Am I crazy? I ordered the CPR mirrored back glass for STTNG after installing one in my Indiana Jones. Indys looks phenomenal but the mirrored back glass I got for star trek seems very washed out compared to even my beat up original translite. I don't think I missed any plastic wrap or anything covering it. Does it look just bad to you? Seems very blurry and washed out to me. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

If you look at the topic image gallery you will see alot of different appearances of the exact same translite. What is different between them is lighting. If you have some extra bulbs laying around, I'd try mixing in some "sunlight" LEDs or incandecents around the skin tones.

#4572 45 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Does it look just bad to you? Seems very blurry and washed out to me. Thoughts?

Looks like the backlighting is way too bright but without having the backlit original for comparison its impossible to tell.

#4573 45 days ago

I have no experience with CPR backglasses whatsoever. But i have to admit it looks terrible? If you look at the shot without any back lighting, the CPR one looks really blurry. So unless it it the cameras focus that are playing tricks, the CPR definitely looks bad to me.

cpr (resized).jpg
#4574 44 days ago

What could cause the Lite Lock mode selected upon starting a game to stop after approximately 5-10 seconds?

All optos seem to be functioning in test mode. Recently replaced the 3 optos in the subway just to rule them out. Drop target assembly is all new.

#4575 43 days ago

Edit: Fixed it! After looking up the meaning of LED flashes on the PCB board I located the problem... fuse F116 which was the only fuse I missed and didn't check. Still have to finish cannon work but all looks good. Thanks!

#4576 42 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

I have no experience with CPR backglasses whatsoever. But i have to admit it looks terrible? If you look at the shot without any back lighting, the CPR one looks really blurry. So unless it it the cameras focus that are playing tricks, the CPR definitely looks bad to me.
[quoted image]

I mentioned it to CPR and they explained this was from the first batch of Star Trek mirrored backglasses they did before they switched to digital imaging for their mirrored backglasses. I was graciously offered a full refund for returning, and I DO want to iterate that although I didn't love this one, my Indiana Jones mirrored backglass is fantastic, and the customer service of CPR was wonderful.

#4577 41 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

What could cause the Lite Lock mode selected upon starting a game to stop after approximately 5-10 seconds?
All optos seem to be functioning in test mode. Recently replaced the 3 optos in the subway just to rule them out. Drop target assembly is all new.

Uh, you're going to have to explain the issue a little better unless I'm just a dolt and can't understand you.

#4578 39 days ago

Any one know how I can get a set of Extended Exit Lane Ball Guides? Another option is if someone has a set and can take a few measurements, I could make them myself.

Thanks
Charlie

#4579 39 days ago
Quoted from Cryland:

Any one know how I can get a set of Extended Exit Lane Ball Guides? Another option is if someone has a set and can take a few measurements, I could make them myself.
Thanks
Charlie

Jakusu is selling them - send him a PM

#4580 39 days ago
Quoted from Cryland:

Any one know how I can get a set of Extended Exit Lane Ball Guides? Another option is if someone has a set and can take a few measurements, I could make them myself.
Thanks
Charlie

I’m looking for a set of those also. If you do make some I would buy them from you.

#4581 37 days ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

I’ve been having a similar problem except with my opto’s. It seems to be more common than most games on STTNG simply because of how packed it is.
As for the cannon, as I’m sure Pin_Guy will tell you, the motor likely isn’t the issue. Remove the plate holding the long metal tube(?) connecting the cannon to the white crank arm. It likely will take some effort to get out if it’s dirty. Clean it and line everything back up exactly as you found it. Somehow, I misaligned something during my cleaning and broke the small crank arm which was not fun to replace.

I took your advice and cleaned the entire cannon, from the white arms to the gear box and motor. I also resoldered all connectors and potential cold solder joints on the motor driver boards, power supply board, and replaced any burnt or yellowed connectors. After all that, I now get at least 13v at tip 1 during attract mode. The slowing of the right cannon has disappeared, and my right upper flipper, works better but a rebuild kit is on the way which is most likely the problem with that.

One thing I notice after performing all those steps, how quiet and smooth the cannons work now. Before, I could easily hear the noise from the motor and gears as it moved back and forth, and now it is barely audible with the glass on.

So I guess there is only one thing left to do, Pin_Guy, when do you want to swap ColorDMDs?

#4582 36 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

So I guess there is only one thing left to do, Pin_Guy, when do you want to swap ColorDMDs?

PM Sent

#4583 36 days ago

This is so cool - I got my STTNG mini this week. Being made and sold by a fellow pinsider on Etsy:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/866488243/star-trek-next-generation-miniature

Perfect tchotchke for my desk....have an EBD coming too!

IMG_8857 (resized).jpgIMG_8858 (resized).jpg
#4584 35 days ago

Here are some I bought a few years ago. I have three that plug into to USB for lights. Xmen also has recordings that I provided.

20140718_215658_Android (resized).jpg
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IMG_7107 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7109 (resized).jpeg
IMG_7108 (resized).jpeg

#4585 35 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

This is so cool - I got my STTNG mini this week. Being made and sold by a fellow pinsider on Etsy:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/866488243/star-trek-next-generation-miniature
Perfect tchotchke for my desk....have an EBD coming too![quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from mbelofsky:

Here are some I bought a few years ago. I have three that plug into to USB for lights. Xmen also has recordings that I provided.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Ok, now I’m buying one

#4586 31 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

So I guess there is only one thing left to do, Pin_Guy, when do you want to swap ColorDMDs?

My trade offer has been accepted!

Thanks scoot the ColorDMD LED display looks fantastic in my TZ ... that also looks great next to my STTNG ... It's just like 1994 again, only in color!

JustLike1994 (resized).JPG
#4587 29 days ago

Made a brief cannon troubleshooting video.

#4588 29 days ago

Hi everybody,

When the machine is turned on, I have the right cannon moving and firing into the void and the left cannon doing nothing. I guess both have to move. In what order does the sequence take place when the machine is turned on? Right first and then left or vice versa?

When I choose "Launch Probe" at the start of the game and the ball leaves the left cannon when I shoot, the cannon ejects fine but the cannon light continues to flash and "Launch Probe" does not go out the screen until what the gun fires again in the void and there the operation becomes normal again. It is not only on Launch Probe in the mission Battle Simulation, same behavior during the phase. The ball was fired and after that, during the return of the cannon to its initial place, the cannons fires in the void 2 times. I have also the message "pull the trigger" but there is no ball in the cannon because I have already fired the first time. Any idea to fix the problem ?

#4589 29 days ago
Quoted from lionelpo91:

Hi everybody,
When the machine is turned on, I have the right cannon moving and firing into the void and the left cannon doing nothing. I guess both have to move. In what order does the sequence take place when the machine is turned on? Right first and then left or vice versa?
When I choose "Launch Probe" at the start of the game and the ball leaves the left cannon when I shoot, the cannon ejects fine but the cannon light continues to flash and "Launch Probe" does not go out the screen until what the gun fires again in the void and there the operation becomes normal again. It is not only on Launch Probe in the mission Battle Simulation, same behavior during the phase. The ball was fired and after that, during the return of the cannon to its initial place, the cannons fires in the void 2 times. I have also the message "pull the trigger" but there is no ball in the cannon because I have already fired the first time. Any idea to fix the problem ?

Power on behavior sounds normal but your second problem is either a bad / dirty opto, the plunger in the cannon isn't retracting after it fires or a bad wiring harness in that left cannon.

#4590 29 days ago

I understand that I have to replace the loom but in my case the loom seems very good. I have checked all wire in it. As I said on the right cannons every thing is Ok, on the left side it fire the ball once and make another fire in the void during its initial place return as if the ball was again in the cannon. I have replaced too the 2 opto on each cannon and the problem doesn't disappear. .

#4591 29 days ago
Quoted from lionelpo91:

I understand that I have to replace the loom but in my case the loom seems very good. I have checked all wire in it. As I said on the right cannons every thing is Ok, on the left side it fire the ball once and make another fire in the void during its initial place return as if the ball was again in the cannon. I have replaced too the 2 opto on each cannon and the problem doesn't disappear. .

All I can tell you is I had this exact symptom on my right cannon and replacing the loom fixed it.

#4592 29 days ago
Quoted from lionelpo91:

I understand that I have to replace the loom but in my case the loom seems very good. I have checked all wire in it. As I said on the right cannons every thing is Ok, on the left side it fire the ball once and make another fire in the void during its initial place return as if the ball was again in the cannon. I have replaced too the 2 opto on each cannon and the problem doesn't disappear. .

I can also tell you from personal experience - after years and years of the cannon twisting and turning, that loom is under a lot of stress and can/will kink and bind up. It may not be noticeable from the outside plastic sheathing....it may look ok, it may even measure out ok end to end in a static position, but any actual internal wire breakage, fraying, or deterioration from years of rubbing will show up when the wire loom gets moved or kinked again as a result of the cannon turning.

Replace the loom.

#4593 29 days ago

Hi everybody,
You were right. I took the "loom" apart and indeed one of the cables going to the opto was cut inside the black tube. I fixed it and now the problem is solved.
Thanks everyone for helping me.

#4594 29 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Made a brief cannon troubleshooting video.

Great Video sataneatscheese thanks for posting it. I'm a little concerned about the comment regarding your cannon coils getting hot enough to melt LED's; this coil should be drawing 0 current except for the one time that it fires a ball out of the cannon, this should make it no hotter than any other part of the playfield. Also you may want to take a look at your UR flipper rubber
pasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).png
#4595 29 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Great Video sataneatscheese thanks for posting it. I'm a little concerned about the comment regarding your cannon coils getting hot enough to melt LED's; this coil should be drawing 0 current except for the one time that it fires a ball out of the cannon, this should make it no hotter than any other part of the playfield. Also you may want to take a look at your UR flipper rubber
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks!

I'll have to fix the flipper rubber and now I have to pick up some of those sweet target details after seeing them in your pin.

As to the incandescents, I've melted 2 sets of LEDs in there but the incandescents work fine. It happens on both sides. I'm just leaving it be and sticking with the incandecents since everything is finally working after my cannon loom replacement.

#4596 29 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I have to pick up some of those sweet target details after seeing them in your pin

I got mine from https://www.pinballdecals.com/StarTrekNextGenPage.html

I didnt use the shuttle decals as I felt they didn't add to the game.

#4597 27 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

My trade offer has been accepted!
Thanks scoot the ColorDMD LED display looks fantastic in my TZ ... that also looks great next to my STTNG ... It's just like 1994 again, only in color![quoted image]

Super happy with my LCD swap. Thank you Pin_Guy!

20200928_164359 (resized).jpg20200928_164423 (resized).jpg
#4598 27 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Super happy with my LCD swap. Thank you Pin_Guy!

WOW, you got that fast! I'm equally as pleased with the Color LED ... Win-Win

#4599 27 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Great Video sataneatscheese thanks for posting it. I'm a little concerned about the comment regarding your cannon coils getting hot enough to melt LED's; this coil should be drawing 0 current except for the one time that it fires a ball out of the cannon, this should make it no hotter than any other part of the playfield. Also you may want to take a look at your UR flipper rubber
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks. Since fixing the rubber I'm getting almost no ramp rejects.

20200928_200234 (resized).jpg
#4600 25 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Thanks. Since fixing the rubber I'm getting almost no ramp rejects. [quoted image]

hi s.,

where can i get these stickers (flippers, upkickers & quadrants)?

br hasi.

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