+1 for LED version

Another +1 here. Played both, LED looks better IMO, but yeah, it's personal preference!

Ok.....so its personal preference. Those of you that have one or the other, and its not too much of a trouble, can someone post a picture of the difference while running it on a STTNG?

On a side note: When I got my game it had LED's installed and damn they were bright on the return lanes. So, I made some replacement blue acrylic guides to knock down the brightness. They work great and look great also. I made the sling protectors as well but they are too dark, at least in this blue.

Here is a pic of the return lanes. LMK what you guys think and if there is anything else that would benefit from making something like this elsewhere. If I can get enough interest I will list them here on pinside like I have done with TMNT2 and EHOH.

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I thought I would introduce myself as I just acquired a STTNG. I had to replace the notorious 8 driver board, all 4 coils 37-40 and completely redo the tie back wire plus a few other minor things but I finally got the game running 100%. The machine has been in storage from the previous owner for 7 years so it needed some love.

I also installed LEDs and made a few changes. For the return lanes (and under the slings) I changed the color to purple. I order to keep the return lanes and the flipper area from being to dark I put one purple frosted LED and one white frosted LED in each return lane with the white ones being closet to the flippers. Makes for a cool effect while still being able to see the balls well at the flippers. I also ordered the parts to convert the upper lanes and pop bumpers to purple from the stock red.

I am going to have to save up some dollars to buy a color DMD for this game. I think STTNG is begging for a color DMD.

I don't think this game is as fast as my other games (BL2K, Spider-man and Terminator 3) but the rules set is so deep and being a wide body there are so many things to shoot for and play with like the canons.

Now that the game is 100% working let the upgrading begin.

I learned first hand how important that stupid little tie back wire is to this game. I highly recommend doing the Tie Back Wire Mod.

How about a quick video:

I should have underexposed it a bit more to better capture colors but it was just quick shot, also consider this is zoomed in so it does look a little different from farther away.

Thanks! I think I like the dots more than the HiRes version. Im heading out to a friends tomorrow that has all his DMD games with these, he dont have a STTNG. I will ask him what ones are what. But if anyone has the LCD with extra large dots and standard dots or even the LED version to show I would also like to see them as well....Im sure other STTNG owners on the fence would as well.

Very happy to join this club, however I am having a frustrating issue. My Playfield will not lock into place, meaning I can’t lift the Playfield up without having it slide back into the cab. Is this a common issue? I can’t seem to find anything causing the Playfield to not come the entire way out.

Any help is appreciated.

15 Minute video of BOTH colorDMD LED and LCD displays, Coloe LED is on top.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TxcL19w5B5pTPhWWjX3OIj1VY0GFL82E/view?usp=sharing

This was previously posted in the following thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-are-the-color-screen-options-for-wpc-games#post-5017108

Note: I'm not a professional photographer and the camera keeps making aperture adjustments to compensate for light levels. The colorLED is actually brighter and more vibrant that what can be captured in a video.

I do find it interesting that the LED seems to be slightly faster at processing the video images as can be seen in this capture; this is only by milliseconds and literally has 0 impact on anything.
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MrCleanHead I'm so certain you will prefer the LED display over an LCD display that I'm willing to put my own money on it and will make the same offer to you that I did in the Twilight Zone forum to someone else that had the same question!

Here's the offer I extend to you:
If you buy a the slightly cheaper (-$30) colorLED display and decide you don't like it, I will do a 1 for 1 exchange with you and replace the ColorLED version you purchased with the fully functioning ColorLCD that came with my recently purchased TZ and I'll even pay for the shipping both ways.

I forgot to mention that while I was checking it out, I was able to get it to latch properly, but it took a few tries.

I was going to put my LCD display in mine, but do you think it would be worth it to try to trade my LCD for an LED? I was going to set the LCD to dots anyway.

I actually prefer the LED version in these older Bally/Williams games. I like the bright Vibrant colors, others feel that the LED dots are too small and/or too bright, it all comes down to personal preference; unfortunately the video is unable of capturing the contrast well, but the the difference are much more substantial than you can see in the video.

Excuse my terrible game play. Still learning the layout on this one, but here is a video showing quite a few modes with a ColorDMD.

I have the original DMD in a box for safe keeping/spare but won't be going back.

Keep in mind that if you are not there already, you will need to be running the LX7 ROM.

No luck locating a spinner bracket. Can someone take several photos on some graph paper and list some of the measurements. I will make a few.

Turned out to be the latching system hitting the rail. I just had to lift the game up higher to get it locked in.

Could someone please post a picture of the wiring of the 3 neutral zone targets? A wire came off and I just want to make sure I solder it back correctly.

Yesterday morning I went to play a few games and noticed my drop target was stuck in the down position. Did some diagnostics and noticed solenoid 37, 38, 39 and 40 were not working. Checked the coil connections all looked good. Did a little more research and found that fuse f103 protects the 8 driver board I believe which controls those solenoids. Surely enough that fuse was burnt up right in the middle, no continuity with the dmm. Had to drive to the neighboring city to get the proper fuse, popped it in and everything works great again. I'm sure similar issues have been posted before but hopefully this might help someone in the future.

Anyone have any spare cannon loom rebuild kits or know where I can order them? They seem to be sold out everywhere CONUS. Thanks!

SOLD!

Parts - Wanted

Cannon Loom Wanted for ST:TNG Archived

Wanted! - “Looking for a Cannon Loom in the USA. Seems to be sold out. If you have one you would part with please let me know. Thanks!”

2020-08-17

Crofton, MD

SantaEatsCheese

Wanted

Archived after: 0 days

Viewed: 18 times

Status: Sold (amount undisclosed)

Loom (resized).png

Are the plastic ramps still available anywhere? Also, looking for a set of nice apron cards. Thanks everyone!

Marcos shows the ramps as in stock:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PR004
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PR005
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PR006

They came with labels. They're pricey but they work well...I bought a set when I shopped my STTNG a few months ago.

PM Pin_Guy he was selling these not too long ago.

I bought all new ramps from Marco. They are nice, but thicker than stock. One of my cliffys wouldn’t work with the new ramps.

https://www.starship-fantasy.com/ramps/Star-Trek-The-Next-Generation-Ramp-Set

I ordered this set about a year ago. I haven't installed them yet, so no feedback on how the install went. They are thicker than stock, and look great! I'm also, fairly certain these are the same ramps marco and other venders sell. I like buying direct form the source when possible.

Indeed - I'm using Mantis ramp protectors and one of the Alpha ones won't go on due to the thickness of the repro ramp plastic:

https://mantispinball.com/product-category/star-trek-the-next-generation/

I'd like to get it on there, but I'm also thinking that with the thicker ramp plastic, they're likely to last a lot longer without cracking anyway.

Are yours really Cliffy's (I didn't know Cliffy did STTNG ramp protectors...don't see them on his website)? I keep thinking about the Big Bang Theory line "all Jacuzzi's are hot tubs but not all hot tubs are Jacuzzi's".

Patience my friend, patience. I was at it for hours. I waited for someone to look through the coin door and see what it was hitting and that’s when I figured out it was hitting the 2nd (closest to coin door) rail screw(?). I’d be more than happy to post a picture if it would help.

Are you saying the playfield won't pivot up high enough for you to be able to pull it out to the latched position or will it pull out but not latch? Keep in mind it has to be up to about a 30-45 degree angle for the latches to engage properly, below that they won't be latched and the whole PF will slide back down until the bottom is hitting one of the wooden rails on the cabinet sides.

Thanks guys for the videos and inputs on the DMD, I went with the colorDMD LED after seeing them in action on a Creature and Dracula. Both were amazing so Im hoping STTNG will be the same.

Now to see if a shaker motor and/or speaker upgrades are worth it

Is the LG-7 Rom the one with the non-ghosting patch?

ack!

My offer still stands if you don't like it, but I know you will; everyone that actually sees the ColorLED in a WPC game seems to go that route.

All these years I knew I wasn't everyone, this just confirms it!

I'm not exactly sure what issue you are seeing but in STTNG but you cannot have the coin mech locking pin installed in the right coin mech as it will hit the trough opto board.

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Probably not the most affordable way to do it but I bought a few boxes of fuse kits from Suzo Happ:
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/electrical_supplies/49-0569-00

I went this route because it's next to impossible to source some of these locally in the NC triangle and I am impatient. I rest a lot easier knowing I got plenty on hand.

You’re correct, they aren’t cliffys. My bad, they were whatever brand Marco sells. Any yeah, it’s the alpha ramp. I also hope the thicker plastic is more resilient.

I also bought one of the subway protectors but suspect that maybe balls are getting hung up on it.

Soon, I will be replacing all of the bulbs in my TNG with LEDs. I normally turn the machine on to make sure the wedge insert bulbs are in place correctly. Would it be safe to turn the machine on without the subway attached?

As long as your your interlock switch is working and you leave the coin door open it should be fine.

I had a rush of blood and sold my TNG this week. Luckily seller remorse kicked in and I came to my senses and kept it

Spent all day playing, cleaning and swapping out LEDs.

My new found appreciation for this pin is off the chart, let’s never fall out again

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Could someone please post a picture of the three targets above the neutral zone? For some reason, the canter and right target on mine aren’t working.

Thanks!

Probably a broken column wire on either the left or center switch, the column 2 pulse (GRN/RED) ends at the left NZ target and is jumpered over to the center and right target switches on solid yellow wires. NOTE: Williams typically used solid yellow wires to jumper signals from one source to another item.

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To me, the image below looks exactly the same as the one above.
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Believe it or not, the Center switch shown below is the same one pictured above.
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I wish I could upvote you twice! A wire was simply on the wrong terminal. Resoldered and it’s all good. Thanks so much!

The lights in the backboard along the white yellow line are out. I've changed the fuses and no dice. Where should they be connected in the back box so I can source the line. Thanks

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IDK. Check the schematics.
I'm guessing they go to one of the J11?6? GI lines. Check for burnt connectors.

This spinner will have to do while searching the universe for the real one. It works just fine.

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Thought I was in for some fun diagnostics when the pin went into endless ball search loop Mid game

Turned out to be an easy fix as just a sheared diverter

Still can’t find the missing bit

0D6315B8-3BCE-4AB8-BE37-B4DAAC695D12 (resized).jpeg18C37C0D-E386-4D2C-8350-8F0B4174FD26 (resized).jpeg1F85051C-250D-4534-B7A1-2458C14981E2 (resized).jpeg

They SHOULD be connected to J120; that being said, J120 and J121 connectors are electrically identical and keyed the same, so it could be on either one, you will know by the wire colors.

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Thanks. Ill look tonight. I used the manual for the fuses, but couldn't find this page...

The schematic that shows the fuses and drive transistors isn't in the manual, it's from the WPC89 Schematic Diagrams.

So yes. J120 was all burnt up. Should I order a new connector or move the wires to j121?

IMG_20200831_194150 (resized).jpg

A new connector is the way to go