(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,425 posts
  • 347 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 212 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,227 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pasted_image (resized).png
20200706_192622 (resized).jpg
20200706_191123 (resized).jpg
Plastic Guide1 (resized).jpg
Drop Target (resized).jpg
4B53669C-CAEF-4075-A334-46D01C90B5A9 (resized).jpeg
6B02E9FA-2465-4405-AB36-26CBE429BFA3 (resized).jpeg
617A6847-E6D3-45CF-B749-C0F6D12BEDCC (resized).jpeg
41DC12E2-DC4B-4B3B-AB98-963ACDC38DB1 (resized).jpeg
DA507276-6E53-4701-BF29-147F2AD000BF (resized).jpeg
STNG - Instruction (resized).jpg
STNG - Title (resized).jpg
20200618_002751 (resized).jpg
IMG_8596 (resized).jpg
IMG_8597 (resized).jpg
LightBoard (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 4425 posts in this topic. You are on page 88 of 89.
#4351 35 days ago
Quoted from Aquapin:

- Ordered cabinet decals from Australia April 3rd and they are still sitting there. Last update was April 28th "Cleared and awaiting international departure".

This was my last update before they arrived in the US, there was never any indication that they left Australia.

#4352 32 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Quoted from Manny65:
I'm interested to know how good the STTNG translite is compared to the original - is the sharpness of the image the same or better? I have seem some STTNG repros (not from MrPinball) that I thought weren't as sharp as the original and it put me off.

I'll let you know when it arrives

IT ARRIVED! I think it looks great but wont know for sure until its installed in the machine.
A couple of things that are immediately noticeable between the remake an original

1) The remake has a textured back
2) The front side is high gloss and very smooth which makes me wonder if it would autograph well, it also contains tiny horizontal scratches that are visible when the light hits them just right, these may not be noticeable when installed and backlit.
3) The R and TM symbols are missing.

The remake is a little darker than the original but looks very nice.

As promised here are a few pics to go by
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
DSC00895 (resized).JPG
DSC00894 (resized).JPG
DSC00896 (resized).JPG
DSC00898 (resized).JPG

#4353 32 days ago

Hi Everyone,

I encountered a weird problem with my STTNG recently: the fuse for the Drop Target Down solenoid burnt and I replaced it. Checked all connections and wires, the solenoid, etc. Everything was fine. Yet in the game the Drop Target was not working well. Ran the tests and when I test other "close" solenoids like the Drop Target Up the Drop Target Down solenoid is activated! I miscalculated the time activating the others in the test and ended up burning the solenoid.

While I wait for the replacement can you guys illuminate me on why is this happening? I don't want to burn it up again

Thanks.

#4354 31 days ago

Okay I’m stumped. My ST:TNG has been working perfectly for weeks and I got the Test ding on startup today after having not opened it for weeks. I got the following error messages as shown in the pictures below. What really has me stumped is that I can enter the cannon test and move the cannons left and right with the coin door buttons and it shows that they open and close. However, when I pop the hood and manually depress the left/right limit switches on the guns, it doesn’t register in switch test mode. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Looking through the manual now for troubleshooting ideas.

20200609_191043 (resized).jpg20200609_191314 (resized).jpg

20200609_191049 (resized).jpg20200609_191053 (resized).jpg
#4355 31 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Okay I’m stumped. My ST:TNG has been working perfectly for weeks and I got the Test ding on startup today after having not opened it for weeks. I got the following error messages as shown in the pictures below. What really has me stumped is that I can enter the cannon test and move the cannons left and right with the coin door buttons and it shows that they open and close. However, when I pop the hood and manually depress the left/right limit switches on the guns, it doesn’t register in switch test mode. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Looking through the manual now for troubleshooting ideas.

Those are the opto switches under the left VUK and right VUK where the ball comes out to the cannon. You will need to test if these and the other optos are working around the game, such as the entry to the borg ship.

In test mode. with all the balls out and the back drop target down, your switch matrix should look like below.

Also, the limit switches to the cannon do not get tested in switch edges. They get tested in the left and right cannot test as you were doing.

IMG_6190 (resized).jpeg

#4356 31 days ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Those are the opto switches under the left VUK and right VUK where the ball comes out to the cannon. You will need to test if these and the other optos are working around the game, such as the entry to the borg ship.
In test mode. with all the balls out and the back drop target down, your switch matrix should look like below.
Also, the limit switches to the cannon do not get tested in switch edges. They get tested in the left and right cannot test as you were doing.
[quoted image]

That's it! Manually cycles those vuks and all works now. Thank you!

20200610_062321 (resized).jpg
#4357 31 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

That's it! Manually cycles those vuks and all works now. Thank you![quoted image]

Are the balls being diverted to all three vuks when you first turn on the game and all 6 balls are in the trough? (The 3 vuks are the left and right cannon and the left most vuk to feed to the left in lane.)

If not, getting those errors could mean that the diverters under the playfield that are controlled by coils may not be working correctly to get the balls staged to the right places.

#4358 31 days ago
Quoted from mbelofsky:

Are the balls being diverted to all three vuks when you first turn on the game and all 6 balls are in the trough? (The 3 vuks are the left and right cannon and the left most vuk to feed to the left in lane.)
If not, getting those errors could mean that the diverters under the playfield that are controlled by coils may not be working correctly to get the balls staged to the right places.

Errors are gone and the test game worked. Going to give it a few more games to make sure all is good.

#4359 31 days ago
Quoted from humberto:

Hi Everyone,
I encountered a weird problem with my STTNG recently: the fuse for the Drop Target Down solenoid burnt and I replaced it. Checked all connections and wires, the solenoid, etc. Everything was fine. Yet in the game the Drop Target was not working well. Ran the tests and when I test other "close" solenoids like the Drop Target Up the Drop Target Down solenoid is activated! I miscalculated the time activating the others in the test and ended up burning the solenoid.
While I wait for the replacement can you guys illuminate me on why is this happening? I don't want to burn it up again
Thanks.

I suspect you have a shorted drive transistor for the drop target, also ensure you have the tie-back mod completed to protect the 8 SDB.

#4360 31 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I suspect you have a shorted drive transistor for the drop target, also ensure you have the tie-back mod completed to protect the 8 SDB.

Hi. I do have the tieback mod. The kind folks in this forum helped me with that a while ago.

Which transistors do you mean? The TIP102s or the 2N4403 in the 8-Driver PCB?

I am very rusty on my electronics, but I found this schematic the manual. If I understood correctly it could be Q5 or Q13, right?

Thank you very much for your help.

Schematic8DriverPCB (resized).png
#4361 31 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Okay I’m stumped. My ST:TNG has been working perfectly for weeks and I got the Test ding on startup today after having not opened it for weeks. I got the following error messages as shown in the pictures below. What really has me stumped is that I can enter the cannon test and move the cannons left and right with the coin door buttons and it shows that they open and close. However, when I pop the hood and manually depress the left/right limit switches on the guns, it doesn’t register in switch test mode. Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Looking through the manual now for troubleshooting ideas.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Hi,

One last comment on this: the switches test is sometimes misleading because it says there is a switch problem when a given switch was not actuated in the last 90 balls, and that may be due to the way the machine is being played or some other thing that prevents the switches from being used... See the image from the manual (pg 1-35). In my case, I simply cycle (activate) the switch mentioned and run the test again. Most times the message is gone. The remaining instances indicate something more substantial.

Cheers,

Snip (resized).png
#4362 31 days ago
Quoted from humberto:

Hi. I do have the tieback mod. The kind folks in this forum helped me with that a while ago.
Which transistors do you mean? The TIP102s or the 2N4403 in the 8-Driver PCB?
I am very rusty on my electronics, but I found this schematic the manual. If I understood correctly it could be Q5 or Q13, right?
Thank you very much for your help.
[quoted image]

It could be either but usually it's the TIP102, so Q13 in your case. You should be able to test it with a meter in diode test (with the game off!).

#4363 31 days ago
Quoted from humberto:

Hi,
One last comment on this: the switches test is sometimes misleading because it says there is a switch problem when a given switch was not actuated in the last 90 balls, and that may be due to the way the machine is being played or some other thing that prevents the switches from being used... See the image from the manual (pg 1-35). In my case, I simply cycle (activate) the switch mentioned and run the test again. Most times the message is gone. The remaining instances indicate something more substantial.
Cheers,[quoted image]

This is true but for the switch in question on his it should NEVER trigger that error because that opto is where one of the balls should be staged when the game powers up / at the end of games. This is why mbelofsky asked it it was properly staging balls and that all six balls are in the game.

#4364 31 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It could be either but usually it's the TIP102, so Q13 in your case. You should be able to test it with a meter in diode test (with the game off!).

OK, I'll check it. Thanks (and thanks for the clarity on sataneatscheese problem as well).

Cheers.

#4365 31 days ago
Quoted from humberto:

Hi Everyone,

I encountered a weird problem with my STTNG recently: the fuse for the Drop Target Down solenoid burnt and I replaced it. Checked all connections and wires, the solenoid, etc. Everything was fine. Yet in the game the Drop Target was not working well. Ran the tests and when I test other "close" solenoids like the Drop Target Up the Drop Target Down solenoid is activated! I miscalculated the time activating the others in the test and ended up burning the solenoid.

While I wait for the replacement can you guys illuminate me on why is this happening? I don't want to burn it up again

Thanks.

Lots of good advice has already been provided in this forum but I'm going to toss out one more. A bad ribbon cable can also cause this issue as the LS576 driving the whole board expects its inputs to be a logic high or logic low level; Unfortunately the engineer that designed this board took no efforts to ensure these inputs could not "float" which would result in an unpredictable output from the flip-flops. There is a mod to this board to prevent an open input from burning stuff up ... scroll down to the This 9 pin bussed resistor SIP‎ portion at https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation

#4366 31 days ago

Anyone ever make an LCARS style topper? Could be cool. Add red spotlights during borg mode for red alert.

Screenshot_20200610-185019_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg
#4367 30 days ago

Got a question on setup, perhaps this is a newb question - I had noticed that I was getting a frustrating number of right side drains. Left-right/side to side wise, I'm spot on 0 degrees. I don't have a bubble on my game, but I hear you should generally have the playfield at an angle of 6.5 degrees.

My iPhone has the Measure app that uses the accelerometers to figure out angles. I placed it flat on the playfield right where the flippers are. I was at 3 degrees. After adjusting the front levelers all the way up and the rears as far down as possible I got it to 5 degrees. My garage slopes outwards, STTNG is facing up hill so I'm guessing that's what I'm working against.

What process do you go through to set this? Thanks!

#4368 30 days ago

I just use a bubble level, but I also deal with the uneven garage floor. Sucks but what are you gonna do?

You really want to get to 7 to 7.5 degrees. That will help cut down on the side to side action.

#4369 30 days ago

You could always slip a 2 X 4 under the back levelers.

#4370 30 days ago
Quoted from aahgo:

You could always slip a 2 X 4 under the back levelers.

I believe Pinball Life sells longer levelers too or you could get some pinfoots (generic name) and only put them on the back.

#4371 29 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

A bad ribbon cable can also cause this issue as the LS576 driving the whole board expects its inputs to be a logic high or logic low level; Unfortunately the engineer that designed this board took no efforts to ensure these inputs could not "float" which would result in an unpredictable output from the flip-flops. There is a mod to this board to prevent an open input from burning stuff up

I encountered this problem twice before figuring out that it was actually the ribbon cable. I was sure i had a shorted transistor when the diverter locked on. Turned out to be the ribbon cable. So i will definately have too take a look at that proposed fix with the pull up resistors.

#4372 28 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'm interested to know how good the STTNG translite is compared to the original - is the sharpness of the image the same or better? I have seem some STTNG repros (not from MrPinball) that I thought weren't as sharp as the original and it put me off.

Installed today, I think it looks great.

Original
Original (resized).jpg
New
New (resized).jpg

Backbox lighting reference
LightBoard (resized).jpg

#4373 25 days ago

Public service notice that all of my Star Trek products are on sale for 16% off for Captain Picard Day until 6/19/2020.
See: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1day-only-sale-capt-picard-day-6-16#post-5048311

#4374 23 days ago

In the middle of an above-average game tonight, my left flipper died, no longer moved. Popped it open to see the plunger linkage broken in half. I rebuilt all three flippers several weeks ago using a rebuild kit from Marco's....this is the second flipper to break (same plunger linkage)!

I wound up putting the original plunger back in with the rest of the rebuild parts to get back up and running in 20 minutes. Normally I've been pretty happy with Marco's stuff but two breaks in as many months?
IMG_8596 (resized).jpgIMG_8597 (resized).jpg

#4375 23 days ago

That's pretty weak sauce; Marco.
I haven't had a single linkage break on any of my games. I rebuilt mine about 2 years ago with parts from PinballLife.com... haven't had any issues.

#4376 23 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

In the middle of an above-average game tonight, my left flipper died, no longer moved. Popped it open to see the plunger linkage broken in half. I rebuilt all three flippers several weeks ago using a rebuild kit from Marco's....this is the second flipper to break (same plunger linkage)!
I wound up putting the original plunger back in with the rest of the rebuild parts to get back up and running in 20 minutes. Normally I've been pretty happy with Marco's stuff but two breaks in as many months?
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is pretty weak. I almost always use flipper parts from PBR but have had good luck with the ones from PBL too, not sure I've ever bought those from Marco but who knows where those links come from and any of the suppliers could end up with a bad batch from the manufacturer.

#4377 23 days ago

Just picked up yesterday after a 9 hour round trip. already have color dmd on the way, any suggestions for mods or upgrades? It came with plastic protectors and outlane extenders

20200618_002751 (resized).jpg

#4378 23 days ago

Pinsound. Definitely a must. Better speakers won't hurt.

Then you can go with some fancy lit ships, side blades, metal decals to cover the metal poppers (from zitt ).

I converted mine to LED including GI (stay away from colored GI it makes the game darker than it already is). You need the GI-OCD board however in order to have the GI do what it's meant to do (dimming the shields for example) if you use LEDs.

#4379 23 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Just picked up yesterday after a 9 hour round trip. already have color dmd on the way, any suggestions for mods or upgrades? It came with plastic protectors and outlane extenders
[quoted image]

Make sure the tie back has been done. Blown boards are no fun.

#4380 23 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Make sure the tie back has been done. Blown boards are no fun.

This ^^^^^ and remote battery holder / NVRAM before anything else. Then I like the ColorDMD LCD version for this game, I'm not a big fan of adding lighted ships to the game but some colored LED flashers in the Borg Ship can really make that POP, just match whatever color windows (green or blue) it has in it.

#4381 23 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Then you can go with some fancy lit ships, side blades, metal decals to cover the metal poppers (from zitt ).

Thanks. Most of the products talked about here are currently on sale thru 6/19 for Captain Picard Day.
http://pinball.click/STNGMods
I personally think the ColorDMD is the best mod for this game. I have yet to try Pinsound on any game.

+1000 for the 9 hour round trip. I'm not sure I could do that.

#4382 23 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Thanks. Most of the products talked about here are currently on sale thru 6/19 for Captain Picard Day.
http://pinball.click/STNGMods
I personally think the ColorDMD is the best mod for this game. I have yet to try Pinsound on any game.
+1000 for the 9 hour round trip. I'm not sure I could do that.

Got it for 3.8 so i dont feel too bad

#4383 22 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Got it for 3.8 so i dont feel too bad

Stop copying me!

#4384 22 days ago

Do mirror blades work well in this machine? I know some B/W widebodys get a little tight with mirror blades and the playfield.

#4385 22 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Do mirror blades work well in this machine? I know some B/W widebodys get a little tight with mirror blades and the playfield.

It’s kinda tight on the one I finished up. I test fitted them with using a nylon washer on each side to spread out the cabinet slightly.

Here’s some info to help see what you think.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-a-refresh-for-future-generations/page/4#post-5648067

#4386 22 days ago
Quoted from Digduglus:

Do mirror blades work well in this machine? I know some B/W widebodys get a little tight with mirror blades and the playfield.

Mine had lots of room to Install. Better than my other pins, but test fitting or gauging will be the best. All cabinets have a little different tolerance in them

#4387 22 days ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Mine had lots of room to Install. Better than my other pins, but test fitting or gauging will be the best. All cabinets have a little different tolerance in them

Thank you for the advice everyone. I'd like to do mirror blades. Had to ask because my indiana jones is too tight for them and I was assuming same year/company machines might end up with the same outcome.

#4388 22 days ago

I think it depends on who built the cabinet... and what machine CNCed the Playfield.
IE it's random what machines are tight and which aren't.
i don't do mirror blades; but I have beat the hell out of my art blades on Stern Star trek.
as I result; I havent installed my Monster bash side art yet.

#4389 22 days ago

Had a STNG owner ask me to design some apron cards, so I wanted to offer them to all owners. While some of the design came from a public version of cards out there, these are completely redone from scratch using original graphics (nothing taken from the current cards). Everything was redone in high resolution and an instruction card was designed to perfectly match the title card.

The cards are printed on OEM ultra gloss photo paper using OEM inks on a photo quality printer. I then laminate them with a clear gloss vinyl, cut to size, and color the edges so you don't see a white perimeter on the card when installed.

I sell the set of cards for $10 which includes US postage ($12 international), so please PM me if interested in purchasing.

STNG - Title (resized).jpgSTNG - Instruction (resized).jpg
#4390 22 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Had a STNG owner ask me to design some apron cards, so I wanted to offer them to all owners. While some of the design came from a public version of cards out there, these are completely redone from scratch using original graphics (nothing taken from the current cards). Everything was redone in high resolution and an instruction card was designed to perfectly match the title card.
The cards are printed on OEM ultra gloss photo paper using OEM inks on a photo quality printer. I then laminate them with a clear gloss vinyl, cut to size, and color the edges so you don't see a white perimeter on the card when installed.
I sell the set of cards for $10 which includes US postage ($12 international), so please PM me if interested in purchasing.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Have a pic of them installed?

#4391 21 days ago

I’m thinking a different color might work better. Possible? Maybe black with white writing? Would that match the rest of the apron better?

#4392 21 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Nice! Have a pic of them installed?

I’ll be posting pics when they arrive in the mail. Mr_Tantrum has made several different cards for my games and always does great work

#4393 18 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum: I sell the set of cards for $10 which includes US postage ($12 international), so please PM me if interested in purchasing.

41DC12E2-DC4B-4B3B-AB98-963ACDC38DB1 (resized).jpeg617A6847-E6D3-45CF-B749-C0F6D12BEDCC (resized).jpegDA507276-6E53-4701-BF29-147F2AD000BF (resized).jpeg
#4394 18 days ago

Weapons systems refit with new cannon looms and online, Captain.

Big thanks to Commander dsuperbee for the loom install.

6B02E9FA-2465-4405-AB36-26CBE429BFA3 (resized).jpeg

4B53669C-CAEF-4075-A334-46D01C90B5A9 (resized).jpeg

#4395 18 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look nice, even with me nit picking 'Warbrids' (and a couple other typos on the Objectives)

#4396 18 days ago

Anyone know of a cannon harness in stock? I rewired my left cannon and it was a PITA.. Let alone the dick move of not having the wires the correct color if I ever sell it

#4397 17 days ago
Quoted from SDVmnt:

Anyone know of a cannon harness in stock?

ebay.com link

#4398 17 days ago

You're the man. Thanks again Pin_guy

#4399 17 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

In the middle of an above-average game tonight, my left flipper died, no longer moved. Popped it open to see the plunger linkage broken in half. I rebuilt all three flippers several weeks ago using a rebuild kit from Marco's....this is the second flipper to break (same plunger linkage)!
I wound up putting the original plunger back in with the rest of the rebuild parts to get back up and running in 20 minutes. Normally I've been pretty happy with Marco's stuff but two breaks in as many months?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Note: There was a run of plastic links where the formula was not right.
------ If the link plastic is too hard, then it has a high tendency to break.
------ I went through the same problem when Williams closed their doors
------ and the distributors had a "last batch of flipper kits".

#4400 15 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: There was a run of plastic links where the formula was not right.
------ If the link plastic is too hard, then it has a high tendency to break.
------ I went through the same problem when Williams closed their doors
------ and the distributors had a "last batch of flipper kits".

Is this something thats actually admitted by Marco or just YMMV going forward?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 99.00
Playfield - Other
Arcade Upkeep
From: $ 233.10
$ 55.00
There are 4425 posts in this topic. You are on page 88 of 89.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside