(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



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There are 4425 posts in this topic. You are on page 87 of 89.
#4301 57 days ago

I switched to the Ultimate pinsound mix. It’s great, except the volume of the voice/call outs is a bit low. I found a page that talks about adding a “gain” file to the voice folder, but that didn’t appear to work. Do I really have use the studio software to remix? I’m hoping there is a simpler way.

#4302 57 days ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Yes on the shield although this one here has the single unused wire clip. A lot of machines have that unused.
Edit: maybe just early production so things were robbed? But it is odd on all.

This game has FL-17636 flipper coils - weren't these only on prototype or early production games? As the switched to FL-11629 for the main release of the game

#4303 57 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

This game has FL-17636 flipper coils - weren't these only on prototype or early production games? As the switched to FL-11629 for the main release of the game

I honestly don't know how far into production the FL-17636 coils were used, my machine (mfg 01/27/94) had these as original coils. I cant tell when this "HUO" machine was made as the machines identification number was removed.

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#4304 56 days ago

So ever since I've had my machine the to be continued button would never light up. I would like to get it to light up. Where do I start as someone who's pretty new to repair. I have a dmm just not sure exactly where to poke around. The button itself works in game and provides the buy in, just no light.

#4305 56 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

So ever since I've had my machine the to be continued button would never light up. I would like to get it to light up. Where do I start as someone who's pretty new to repair. I have a dmm just not sure exactly where to poke around. The button itself works in game and provides the buy in, just no light.

I would start by reseating the lamp and if that doesn’t work then replace the lamp. Flashes at the end of the game I believe. Never opened one up though...

Do this with the power off of course!

#4306 56 days ago
Quoted from andrewket:

I switched to the Ultimate pinsound mix. It’s great, except the volume of the voice/call outs is a bit low. I found a page that talks about adding a “gain” file to the voice folder, but that didn’t appear to work. Do I really have use the studio software to remix? I’m hoping there is a simpler way.

I dialed in the eq settings and my voices are coming in nicely in that mix. I tuned the eq so the core music sounds about as balanced as if you were watching the tv show with audio out to an external amp amd speakers.

But I can see where even then some voices get lost a bit.

#4307 56 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

So ever since I've had my machine the to be continued button would never light up. I would like to get it to light up. Where do I start as someone who's pretty new to repair. I have a dmm just not sure exactly where to poke around. The button itself works in game and provides the buy in, just no light.

Quoted from holminone:

I would start by reseating the lamp and then replacing the lamp. Flashes at the end of the game I believe. Never opened one up though...

Agreed - it's probably just a burned out bulb. I'd like to switch mine from incan to LED (I converted to LED with OCD boards a couple weeks ago) but I left that button and the Engage button alone because I couldn't twist off the casing without fear of breaking the 40 year old plastic housing...it looks pretty delicate and I tried twisting it hard but it won't budge. Same kinda button is in my Sterns and they all twist off rather easily.

Is there a trick to getting the STTNG buttons out or are they just seized up from age? I might by a compare spares to have in case I get the notion again to get them out and I wind up breaking them.

#4308 56 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Agreed - it's probably just a burned out bulb. I'd like to switch mine from incan to LED (I converted to LED with OCD boards a couple weeks ago) but I left that button and the Engage button alone because I couldn't twist off the casing without fear of breaking the 40 year old plastic housing...it looks pretty delicate and I tried twisting it hard but it won't budge. Same kinda button is in my Sterns and they all twist off rather easily.
Is there a trick to getting the STTNG buttons out or are they just seized up from age? I might by a compare spares to have in case I get the notion again to get them out and I wind up breaking them.

You actually pull it straight back out no twisting, just use your strength. I also should have added that I tried different bulbs during single lamp test and am not getting anything.

#4309 56 days ago

I'm going to go out there and say there may be nothing wrong with your machine.
To Be continued flashes for me in attract mode and during lamp test - IIRC.
However, it does not work at end of game during buy in.

I haven't tried troubleshooting extensively; but I'm actually thinking either there is a manufacturing defect. Or; the game code is broken.
Of-course; this all could be a bad dream too. YYMV.

#4310 56 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm going to go out there and say there may be nothing wrong with your machine.
To Be continued flashes for me in attract mode and during lamp test - IIRC.
However, it does not work at end of game during buy in.
I haven't tried troubleshooting extensively; but I'm actually thinking either there is a manufacturing defect. Or; the game code is broken.
Of-course; this all could be a bad dream too. YYMV.

Very interesting theory, I will test this out.

#4311 56 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm going to go out there and say there may be nothing wrong with your machine.
To Be continued flashes for me in attract mode and during lamp test - IIRC.
However, it does not work at end of game during buy in.
I haven't tried troubleshooting extensively; but I'm actually thinking either there is a manufacturing defect. Or; the game code is broken.
Of-course; this all could be a bad dream too. YYMV.

Mine flashes after a game...maybe yours is disabled in the menu system (A2 10 "Buy Extra Ball")? It defaults to 1 Credit but can be turned off.

#4312 56 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Mine flashes after a game...maybe yours is disabled in the menu system (A2 10 "Buy Extra Ball")? It defaults to 1 Credit but can be turned off.

Sadly this wasn't the fix.

#4313 56 days ago

Seriously, I'm thinking this was a miss in QA.
As the game works perfect, is just the button doesn't flash when you think is should

#4314 56 days ago

Yeah so not sure if I did this properly still new to dmm's but I measured around 8 volts where power comes in to the push button assembly. Same measurement where the wire connects on the outside and same on the prong inside where the bulb touches.

#4315 56 days ago

About 20% of the time, my left launcher ball scoop solenoid will over propel the ball straight into the left drain lane jumping over the left launcher rails. Any thoughts on how to calm that solenoid down?

#4316 56 days ago
Quoted from Darkkow:

About 20% of the time, my left launcher ball scoop solenoid will over propel the ball straight into the left drain lane jumping over the left launcher rails. Any thoughts on how to calm that solenoid down?

Following....this happens to me about once out of every 10-15 times as well. Same VUK, same symptom. I've had the game about 3 to 4 months now and this didn't happen in the first 100 games I played. Coincidentally perhaps, after a shop job and cleaning of the subway, VUKs, etc. last month I started seeing this behavior. During the shop job, I didn't change anything on this VUK assembly.

#4317 56 days ago
Quoted from Darkkow:

About 20% of the time, my left launcher ball scoop solenoid will over propel the ball straight into the left drain lane jumping over the left launcher rails. Any thoughts on how to calm that solenoid down?

My left cannon loads used to jump off the rail and into the drain lane about 70%-80% of the time. And the scoop on my POTC was also completely inconsistent. I used to cringe when it would be time for that left cannon to load or the POTC scoop to kick out because I knew it was probably going to be the end of that ball. When I checked them out I noticed on both the STTNG coil and on my POTC coil those plungers had a bit of wiggle inside the coil sleeve and the end of the plunger would come to rest on the coil stop in just a slightly different spot (and, therefore, angle) after each kick up. When I tested manually adjusting the plunger rest position to the same spot before each kick up they became consistent. So I came up with an odd fix to try to give the plungers a consistent resting spot. I used duct tape to tape a small amount of foam weather stripping to the coil stops. That gave the plunger a slightly shorter travel and it helped the plunger come back to rest in a consistent spot so each kick up would be consistent. After I did this on my STTNG and POTC they both instantly became 100% reliable. It was like a light switch had been turned on. The STTNG cannon loads never fly off the rail now, and the POTC scoop hits the same spot each time now.

In fact, a couple weeks ago my POTC scoop suddenly started firing inconsistently again in the middle of a game. After the game I lifted the playfield and saw the weather stripping and tape had fallen off the coil stop into the bottom of the cabinet. I re-applied it and it instantly went back to 100% again. Might be worth trying it on your cannon. Here's a post with a picture describing what I did:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/inconsistent-vuk-kickouts-ideas-for-solutions#post-5406189

#4318 56 days ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

My left cannon loads used to jump off the rail and into the drain lane about 70%-80% of the time. And the scoop on my POTC was also completely inconsistent. I used to cringe when it would be time for that left cannon to load or the POTC scoop to kick out because I knew it was probably going to be the end of that ball. When I checked them out I noticed on both the STTNG coil and on my POTC coil those plungers had a bit of wiggle inside the coil sleeve and the end of the plunger would come to rest on the coil stop in just a slightly different spot (and, therefore, angle) after each kick up. When I tested manually adjusting the plunger rest position to the same spot before each kick up they became consistent. So I came up with an odd fix to try to give the plungers a consistent resting spot. I used duct tape to tape a small amount of foam weather stripping to the coil stops. That gave the plunger a slightly shorter travel and it helped the plunger come back to rest in a consistent spot so each kick up would be consistent. After I did this on my STTNG and POTC they both instantly became 100% reliable. It was like a light switch had been turned on. The STTNG cannon loads never fly off the rail now, and the POTC scoop hits the same spot each time now.
In fact, a couple weeks ago my POTC scoop suddenly started firing inconsistently again in the middle of a game. After the game I lifted the playfield and saw the weather stripping and tape had fallen off the coil stop into the bottom of the cabinet. I re-applied it and it instantly went back to 100% again. Might be worth trying it on your cannon. Here's a post with a picture describing what I did:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/inconsistent-vuk-kickouts-ideas-for-solutions#post-5406189

Thanx for that...nice idea! I'll give that a shot this weekend....

#4319 55 days ago
Quoted from misterman:

So ever since I've had my machine the to be continued button would never light up. I would like to get it to light up.

I would want it to light up as well.

Quoted from Zitt:

Seriously, I'm thinking this was a miss in QA.
As the game works perfect, is just the button doesn't flash when you think is should

It is should flash if buy-ins are enabled in settings.

pasted_image (resized).png

Link to video...its sideways, sorry.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yUPsJ8fPoJ5LJ4pYkNKQv_UeVF82WuoA

#4320 55 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Quoted from Mathazar:
Wow....this is nice: https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/96147

It's a good looking machine! I would be interested in why every serial number sticker in the machine was removed by the owner.

I ask the seller if he could provide addition pictures of the back of the machine; the seller was very responsive and provide me with additional photos...like the rest of the machine both the manufacturing date label and the Machines Identification label was removed. My gut is screaming "Stolen"

Back (resized).jpeg
#4321 55 days ago
Quoted from Darkkow:

About 20% of the time, my left launcher ball scoop solenoid will over propel the ball straight into the left drain lane jumping over the left launcher rails. Any thoughts on how to calm that solenoid down?

If you look at the assembly there are slots in the bracket where the screws attach the coil / plunger assembly, you can slide the bracket up a little which reduces the travel of the plunger and softens it enough to stop it from bouncing off the rail. Since I've done this I've never had a failed VUK kick to the rail whatsoever and never had it not eject it fully either. Same trick works to adjust other VUKs like on CV which can be a real PITA to get just right.

1 week later
#4322 48 days ago

Searched and can't seem to find a post about this: When I leave the machine alone during the ball launch selection, the selector keeps accelerating faster and faster between the ball launch options. It starts out at the normal speed, and the flippers aren't firing or anything like that. I recently installed a LCD colordmd, but the machine had a LED colordmd before. Is there a big power difference? Thanks.

#4323 48 days ago

Pretty sure that's normal. At least that's what my ST:TNG does (with original DMD and after I put in a ColorDMD).

#4324 48 days ago

Normal

#4325 48 days ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

Searched and can't seem to find a post about this: When I leave the machine alone during the ball launch selection, the selector keeps accelerating faster and faster between the ball launch options. It starts out at the normal speed, and the flippers aren't firing or anything like that. I recently installed a LCD colordmd, but the machine had a LED colordmd before. Is there a big power difference? Thanks.

It has nothing to do with having a colorDMD - it's just the way the game is

#4326 48 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

It has nothing to do with having a colorDMD - it's just the way the game is

It's punishment for not launching the f'ing ball in a reasonable amount of time when it's your turn.

#4327 47 days ago
Quoted from Dreadreaper:

I recently installed a LCD colordmd, but the machine had a LED colordmd before. Is there a big power difference?

Yes, the power difference between the two is quite substantial; what did you not like about the ColorLED?

I know I measured both of these when they were connected to my machine at the same time but unfortunately I cant find where I documented this

#4328 47 days ago

Thought I'd pass this along in case someone else ever runs into this oddity: for the last few days, an intermittent problem cropped up on my recently shopped ST:TNG:

Symptom #1: during multiballs, particularly Final Frontier, the game would "lose track" of the number of balls in play and end prematurely.
Symptom #2: when a ball drained, it sometimes took up to 4 or 5 seconds for the game to recognize the ball in the trough before ending the ball and proceeding to the next ball.

The symptoms got more persistent last night so I had a closer look. When I shopped out the game a month or so ago, I cleaned all the optos and subway so I was going to be surprised if that was it. I did a Switch Edge test and things checked out fine. Then....I noticed when I closed the coin door, I'd get the expected "beep" for the coin door switch closing but that was followed by three more unexpected beeps. I repeated the opening and closing of the coin door a few times and most of the time, I'd get the extra beeps. Watching the screen, I saw it was the optos for Trough Balls 5, 4, and 3! What the heck? I closed the door slowly, and those trough optos would sound off as I pressed the coin door in to turn the lock. Aha.

I looked at the cam lock and the damn thing is bent, i.e. in order to clear the cabinet frame to turn the key to lock the door, you had to press the door inward more. When you do that, the coin mechs PUSH AGAINST THE TROUGH OPTO PCB. And since it's bent, once locked, the door stays in that more-inward position and continually puts pressure on that trough PCB. I replaced the bent one with a new straight one, and now the coin door closes and locks with only the one beep for the coin door switch.

Time will tell, but three games so far, all with Final Frontier, and neither symptom encountered yet.
Coin Door Lock (resized).jpg

#4329 47 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Thought I'd pass this along in case someone else ever runs into this oddity:

It is odd, normally only the locking pin securing the coin mech has to be removed to prevent this, but it looks like your pin was removed and still had this problem. Do you know if your machine has an aftermarket ball trough?

#4330 47 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

It is odd, normally only the locking pin securing the coin mech has to be removed to prevent this, but it looks like your pin was removed and still had this problem. Do you know if your machine has an aftermarket ball trough?

It looks OEM, but I am cringing looking at the wiring hack a previous owner did on the J1 connector for the A-16927 trough PCB (a similar wiring hack is also made on the A-16926 PCB as well). I understand that quick on-site repairs are necessary to keep the revenue coming in on routed games, but it shouldn't take more than an hour to properly re-pin those wires into new connectors. On my to-do list.

IMG_8311 (resized).jpg
#4331 47 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's punishment for not launching the f'ing ball in a reasonable amount of time when it's your turn.

LMAO yep clearly the programmer hated waiting for players to plunge their ball

#4332 44 days ago

Follow up, all the easy stuff didn't help - Repinning the connector, no improvement. Modification of removing the Z connector between the power and cpu boards. Came out nice and tidy, soldered and heat shrinked. That too didn't help. Resets coming more often, and the voltage is at 4.7vdc on the cpu. Machine will stay on if I disable the high voltage by opening the front door.

I ordered up the Bridge Rectifier/cap kit from Marco. Watched a few videos on folks replacing them; aside from the hint of replacing the BR that share the heat sink by mounting them on heatsink before soldering, any other suggestions on avoiding pitfalls?

Another thing I discovered - seems like there is some screws that cut through the playfield (I'm guessing humidity and expansion/shrinkage in heat?). they're behind the flippers but what would you do to fix this?

STTNG-PLayfieldScrewsThrough (resized).jpg
#4333 44 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Another thing I discovered - seems like there is some screws that cut through the playfield (I'm guessing humidity and expansion/shrinkage in heat?). they're behind the flippers but what would you do to fix this?[quoted image]

They're flipper positioning holes, you align the bottom edge of the flipper to the hole. You can put a toothpick in the hole and rest the flipper on the toothpick when tightening the flipper bat - remove the toothpick afterwards

#4334 44 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

They're flipper positioning holes, you align the bottom edge of the flipper to the hole. You can put a toothpick in the hole and rest the flipper on the toothpick when tightening the flipper bat - remove the toothpick afterwards

I use an appropriately sized allen wrench.

#4335 44 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Follow up, all the easy stuff didn't help

Take a good look at the PinWiki WPC guide, specifically the section that diagnoses power problems. Follow the steps in order, you never know if yours is one of the less common causes. There is a lot to check before resorting to replacing bridges and caps which might not solve your problem but might cause you to damage traces on the board.

I have a TZ (another power hungry game) that took some effort to diagnose lower than normal 5v. You can see some of the diagnosis work here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/170#post-5590748
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/172#post-5599308

PinWiki notes that replacing the LM323K 5v regulator is one of the last things that can be tried after eliminating other potential issues that may be contributing to the problem (remember, this could be a cumulative thing, not just a single issue). This worked for me, removed the LM323K and installed a PSU5 from ezsbc.com. I was able to dial the 5v to exactly where it needed to be. Daniel at EZSBC ships his quality made stuff out quickly, very reasonably priced, and works just as advertised.

This is another link recommended to me during my diagnosis. http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/14-twilight-zone-reset-and-the-5v-regulator.3966/

If you need it, there is a YouTube video that shows installation of a PSU5.

#4336 43 days ago

Another mystery solved. My right flipper bat has been moving downward ever so slightly these last few days if I let the ball just land on it or when I'm trying to drop catch or trap it. I thought maybe the flipper shaft was moving but I've got the lock down screw pretty tight. I took a closer look the bushing and dang....two of the three screw's heads are sheared right off of the screw and the bushing is moving around on the one good screw left. Found the two screw heads in the bottom of the cabinet.

Time to break out the Dremel, tap what's left of the headless screws, and get them out of there.

IMG_8400 (resized).jpg
#4337 43 days ago

sweet jeasues.... how tight did those heads have to be to snap off like that?
I'd never torque down on nylon like that... leads to cracking.

#4338 42 days ago

(Self Resolved).
My Bridge Rectifier kit came from Marco (I was surprised how fast).

Most of the original capacitors were out of spec on my ESR, the 'worst' was measuring 9202uF. Closest one was 13000uF- they're supposed to be 15000uF

The capacitors have thick hook like legs, so my desoldering gun didn't really work with it. I did lift a trace on C30 capacitor when it popped out before I had removed all the solder. I was able to solder to the remaining trace, run the wire through the whole and wrap it on the capacitor leg. Tested ok. See pics for how I resolved it.

The rest of the repair went as planned. The voltages are much better, 5.01vdc at TP2 and the CPU board is coming in at 4.97vdc at the chip leg.

Board powered on, all LEDs are lit, game booted, game on, BUT...

The playfield lights are not working - general illumination is, but 'The Final Frontier', 'Shoot Again' and the mission lights are not working.

Any hints as to where I made a mistake?

Update - figured out my loss of play field lamps was due to a lack of 18vdc. The C7 top positive trace must have lifted as well as there was no continuity from TP8 (18vdc) to the positive posts of C7 (but there was to C6). I added a jumper wire on the back between the + posts of C7 and C6 and that resolved it.

Test Point voltages in the Power Driver Board, in case someone asks:
TP1 - 13.45vdc
TP2 - 5.02vdc
TP3 - 11.89vdc
TP6 - 71.1vdc
TP7 - 21.1vdc
TP8 - 0.03vdc (is this right?) Update - no this is not right. When working is now 14-17vdc

PowerDriverBoard-C30TraceLifted (resized).jpgPowerDriverBoard-Tracerepair1 (resized).jpgPowerDriverBoard-C30TraceRepair2 (resized).jpg

#4339 39 days ago

Always a fun adventure with STTNG - it's now complaining about 'CHECK SWITCH F4 - L. FLIPPER BUTTON'. Flipper is working fine, however, selecting items by pressing left button does not trigger it (Command Decision, Shuttle Craft through tunnels video mode - won't turn left).

I cleaned the optos on the left side with alcohol+qtip, but no fix. I did notice one of the resistors on the board got extremely warm to the touch. Do I have a fried opto and need to replace it? Is there something else I should check first?

Thanks as always!

#4340 39 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Always a fun adventure with STTNG - it's now complaining about 'CHECK SWITCH F4 - L. FLIPPER BUTTON'. Flipper is working fine, however, selecting items by pressing left button does not trigger it (Command Decision, Shuttle Craft through tunnels video mode - won't turn left).
I cleaned the optos on the left side with alcohol+qtip, but no fix. I did notice one of the resistors on the board got extremely warm to the touch. Do I have a fried opto and need to replace it? Is there something else I should check first?
Thanks as always!

The flipper opto boards have 2 switches - one switch is used for the lower flipper and the other switch is used for an upper flipper (if there is one - eg on the right side) and also used for other game features such as video mode, command decision etc. Try swapping the flipper boards and see if the problem now occurs on the right flipper - I'm guessing the upper flipper won't work. You can then either replace the flipper board as a whole (most pinball companies carry these) or you can try repairing your existing board. Maybe buy a set of new boards and drop them in to verify that you now have no other issues, and then you can work on repairing the faulty board to have a spare set.

#4341 39 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

(Self Resolved).
My Bridge Rectifier kit came from Marco (I was surprised how fast).
Most of the original capacitors were out of spec on my ESR, the 'worst' was measuring 9202uF. Closest one was 13000uF- they're supposed to be 15000uF
The capacitors have thick hook like legs, so my desoldering gun didn't really work with it. I did lift a trace on C30 capacitor when it popped out before I had removed all the solder. I was able to solder to the remaining trace, run the wire through the whole and wrap it on the capacitor leg. Tested ok. See pics for how I resolved it.
The rest of the repair went as planned. The voltages are much better, 5.01vdc at TP2 and the CPU board is coming in at 4.97vdc at the chip leg.
Board powered on, all LEDs are lit, game booted, game on, BUT...
The playfield lights are not working - general illumination is, but 'The Final Frontier', 'Shoot Again' and the mission lights are not working.
Any hints as to where I made a mistake?
Update - figured out my loss of play field lamps was due to a lack of 18vdc. The C7 top positive trace must have lifted as well as there was no continuity from TP8 (18vdc) to the positive posts of C7 (but there was to C6). I added a jumper wire on the back between the + posts of C7 and C6 and that resolved it.
Test Point voltages in the Power Driver Board, in case someone asks:
TP1 - 13.45vdc
TP2 - 5.02vdc
TP3 - 11.89vdc
TP6 - 71.1vdc
TP7 - 21.1vdc
TP8 - 0.03vdc (is this right?) Update - no this is not right. When working is now 14-17vdc
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Dang. I just read your previous post and was about to warn you about capacitor removal... glad it’s working now.

#4342 39 days ago

Just received the STTNG mirrored backglass and wanted to give some feedback, out of the 3 I ordered ( the two others being IJTPA and TZ ) I would say it is probably the one which isn't a "must have" it isn't bad at all and I did install it, but the mirroring is discreet, and the reproduction of the entretrise crew portraits not as detailled/precise than the original picture, so there is a bit of give and take on that one.
Cheers,

#4343 38 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Try swapping the flipper boards and see if the problem now occurs on the right flipper - I'm guessing the upper flipper won't work. You can then either replace the flipper board as a whole (most pinball companies carry these) or you can try repairing your existing board. Maybe buy a set of new boards and drop them in to verify that you now have no other issues, and then you can work on repairing the faulty board to have a spare set.

Thanks for the suggestion! I did swap them - I found out that both boards have to be plugged in for either side to work - they cleverly used the same board for both sides, just mounted inversely. The busted board didn't trigger the bottom flipper when plugged into the right side. Ordered a replacement opto board (16$) to quickly get it back working, and I found the opto part itself for 6$ (so I can try to repair and keep a spare board if it peters out again).

Thanks for the suggestion.

#4344 38 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Very true, this is why I purchased a new translite from Mr. Pinball yesterday ... In hindsight I should have purchased two.

and 77 days (yep 11 weeks) later:

Arrived at facility
UNITED STATES
Date & time Wed 3 Jun • 6:40pm

#4345 38 days ago

Wow!!! Better late than pregnant.

#4346 38 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

and 77 days (yep 11 weeks) later:
Arrived at facility
UNITED STATES
Date & time Wed 3 Jun • 6:40pm

LOL that beats mine (2 months to the US). Postal shipping from Aust is really poor atm as they mainly use passenger commercial flights which are currently almost non-existent, while the international couriers manage their own cargo flights to handle the load.

I'm interested to know how good the STTNG translite is compared to the original - is the sharpness of the image the same or better? I have seem some STTNG repros (not from MrPinball) that I thought weren't as sharp as the original and it put me off.

#4347 38 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I'm interested to know how good the STTNG translite is compared to the original - is the sharpness of the image the same or better? I have seem some STTNG repros (not from MrPinball) that I thought weren't as sharp as the original and it put me off.

I'll let you know when it arrives

#4348 38 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

and 77 days (yep 11 weeks) later:
Arrived at facility
UNITED STATES
Date & time Wed 3 Jun • 6:40pm

8 weeks for my shields pcb board to get here from Austrailia only to be left in a severe rain by the USPS. I hope it works.

#4349 37 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

and 77 days (yep 11 weeks) later:
Arrived at facility
UNITED STATES
Date & time Wed 3 Jun • 6:40pm

Glad to hear I am not alone (misery loves company)...
- Ordered cabinet decals from Australia April 3rd and they are still sitting there. Last update was April 28th "Cleared and awaiting international departure".
- Ordered ramp protectors and ext. lane guides from Germany in late March. They never even made it through customs, still showing as unknown.

Hopefully as restrictions lift parts will start shipping as I really need a set of head decals

#4350 37 days ago

I ordered a Smart Eddy board replacement for my STTNG in March from Tangles in Australia. He shipped it (great guy BTW - wouldn't hesitate to buy something from him again) within 4 days of my order and provided me a tracking number....within a few days of that it left Australia but then it was like watching paint dry checking on the tracking status every few days! Ultimately, 2 months later, it showed up at my door. Popped it in (took 5 minutes) and it's been working great since.

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