(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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There are 10,264 posts in this topic. You are on page 84 of 206.
#4151 3 years ago

Holy crap. At first it looked like it was broken but looking further at your pictures actually it is definitely not installed right. I need to move the arm above the bar

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#4152 3 years ago
Quoted from SDVmnt:

Holy crap. At first it looked like it was broken but looking further at your pictures actually it is definitely not installed right. I need to move the arm above the bar[quoted image]

Yes in your case that plunger would push the target into the up position and the switch would turn off, but once the coil deactivated the plunger and the metal arm would drop back down (leaving the target up). More that likely the switch would be closed again by the falling metal arm and machine would believe the target had failed to lock in the up position and would re-activate the coil to push the target up. This would continue until the machine disabled the drop target.

The switch activator arm should be activated by the tab on the back of target itself (shown by the red circle)
Drop target 1 (resized).jpgDrop target 1 (resized).jpg

#4153 3 years ago

Hey folks... past few weeks my STTNG developed a habit of resetting during a game. I went through the backboard, pushed down on the connectors, replaced the batteries while it was on, and it seems like that helped, played a few games, no problem.

Over the past couple of days, I moved the game and the problem is back, and seemingly worse - you start a game and it resets, and it continues to reset, never coming back. I unplugged it for the moment. I'll check voltages, but what else should I look for?

The reset doesn't seem to happen at any particular action in the game, it just seems random...

#4154 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Hey folks... past few weeks my STTNG developed a habit of resetting during a game. I went through the backboard, pushed down on the connectors, replaced the batteries while it was on, and it seems like that helped, played a few games, no problem.
Over the past couple of days, I moved the game and the problem is back, and seemingly worse - you start a game and it resets, and it continues to reset, never coming back. I unplugged it for the moment. I'll check voltages, but what else should I look for?
The reset doesn't seem to happen at any particular action in the game, it just seems random...

What you are experiencing is a common issue whereby the watchdog circuit monitors the 5 volt power and will reset the machine if the voltage drops below a preset value. Googling WPC 5v reset will give you a raft of links and information.

I found a post that the majority is word-for-word from "Repairing Williams/Bally WPC Pinball Games from 1990 to 1999" but it has some additional comments on pin pointing the problem that I found most useful. It's basic troubleshooting but broken down into the steps and well explained.

"+5 volts DC: TP2 (TP101 on WPC95). Should be 4.92 to 5.1 volts DC. If this is below 4.92 volts, the game will most certainly reset easily, as this is the voltage the "reset watchdog" examines. Often the problem is bridge rectifier BR2 (diodes D7-D10 on WPC95) and the related filter capacitor C5 (C9 on WPC95). Sometimes it could also be the +5 volt voltage regulator is failing (Q1 LM323K or LM317 on WPC95). Or it's very common for the input connector (J101 or J129 wpc95) or 5 volt to CPU board output connector (J114 or J101 wpc95) on the driver board. At this point do NOT remove/reseat the connectors!
This is very important. Removing or reseating the connectors will make finding the actual problem nearly impossible. So don't touch them yet!
Check for +5 volts on the CPU board. Yes I know, you checked the +5 on the driver board TP test point. But there are *two* connectors (or sometimes a third/fourth "Z" conector too) that go from the driver board to the CPU board. If these connector(s) are having problems, the +5 volts will be lower on the CPU board than it is on the driver board. The best place to test for +5 on the CPU board is right at the CPU board game EPROM pin 32 (the last pin). If the CPU board's +5 volts is even just a bit lower than the Driver board's Test Point +5 volts, that means the connector(s) between these two boards need to be re-pin'ed with new Trifurcon connector pins. This is very common and just re-pin'ing these two connectors can fix a lot of reset problems (without having to change any driver board parts).
Next reseat the right side driver board connectors J101. Power up and re-test the +5 volts on the driver board Test Point. If the voltage has gone up, then the input connector J101 is bad. Repin this connector with new Trifurcon connector pins. If it's the original connector (IDC), you will have to replace the connector housing too.
Recheck the voltage on the CPU board at the game ROM pin 32. Now reseat driver board connector J114 (J101 on wpc95) at the lower left. Recheck the CPU board +5 volts at game ROM pin 32. If the voltage has gone up, connector J114 needs to be replaced. Repeat this procedure for CPU board connector J210, and then repeat with the "Z" connector (if the game has one). Again if voltage changes after a connector reseat, the connector MUST be repinned with new Trifurcon connector pins. (And wire brush the male connector pins or replace them too.)
If the CPU and Driver board +5 volts are very close to each other and are 4.92 volts DC or higher, try this. Remove driver board +5/12 volt connectors J114 (power to CPU board), J116 (cabinet), J117 (backbox), J118 (playfield), and measure the 5 volts at TP2 on the driver board (on WPC95 connectors J101, J139, J138, J140/J141 respectively). If you still below 4.92 volts, BR2/C5/C4/LM323K regulator are the likely culprits. If the +5 volts goes up with these four connectors removed, one of the other boards/devices is dragging the +5 volts down. Replace the connectors one at a time to try and find the culprit."

#4155 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What you are experiencing is a common issue whereby the watchdog circuit monitors the 5 volt power and will reset the machine if the voltage drops below a preset value. Googling WPC 5v reset will give you a raft of links and information.

This is a great pointer and I'll follow up with this. I did lift the playfield, measured voltage at the tap to be 113.6 on, 115.1 with the power off. Unplugged and replugged the connectors to the transformers. Played a bit, and then it went on its reset rampage. I'll report back when I verify as per instructions.

#4156 3 years ago

Agree, before touching anything else, measure the voltage on TP2 and write it down. And then measure the voltage at pin 32 on the game rom (U6) on the CPU board and write it down. Then come back and tell us the voltages. Of course you can also follow the (excellent) guide mentioned above.

I have had a couple of issues with the Z connector on both my IJ and STTNG. Have thought about eliminating the Z connector entirely, and soldering the wires together instead.

#4157 3 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

I have had a couple of issues with the Z connector on both my IJ and STTNG. Have thought about eliminating the Z connector entirely, and soldering the wires together instead.

Had that. Did that. Problem fixed in my case.

#4158 3 years ago

New personal best tonight - x3 Final Frontiers / x24 Missions, x14 Artifacts, and collected x4 Extra Balls along the way. All the parts I was waiting on to do a topside teardown/clean/shop job/wax (including new ramps and plastics!) have come in but I can't stop playing this pin.

IMG_7873 (resized).jpgIMG_7873 (resized).jpg
#4159 3 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

New personal best tonight - x3 Final Frontiers / x24 Missions, x14 Artifacts, and collected x4 Extra Balls along the way. All the parts I was waiting on to do a topside teardown/clean/shop job/wax (including new ramps and plastics!) have come in but I can't stop playing this pin.[quoted image]

With scores like that I think you should leave the game as it is

#4160 3 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I can't stop playing this pin.

When the time comes you stop for a while paint that borg ship please

#4161 3 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

When the time comes you stop for a while paint that borg ship please

Meh. I prefer that look to what I got. A previous owner painted mine shiny silver. So wrong.

#4162 3 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

New personal best tonight - x3 Final Frontiers / x24 Missions, x14 Artifacts, and collected x4 Extra Balls along the way. All the parts I was waiting on to do a topside teardown/clean/shop job/wax (including new ramps and plastics!) have come in but I can't stop playing this pin.[quoted image]

Wow! That's amazing! When you do a 2nd Final Frontier, do you get credit for all artifacts you collected so far and get a bigger bonus or does it only count the ones collected since the first Final Frontier? I hope someday to be able to find out for myself but until then I'm just curious

#4163 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Wow! That's amazing! When you do a 2nd Final Frontier, do you get credit for all artifacts you collected so far and get a bigger bonus or does it only count the ones collected since the first Final Frontier? I hope someday to be able to find out for myself but until then I'm just curious

Thanx! In the Final Frontier, you get 1B for every four artifacts you collect and you keep them all. In my first FF, I had 8, so I got 2B. My second FF, I got it up to 11 so I still got 2B. In my third FF, I got it up to 14 so I got 3B. No matter how many artifacts you get, the shot bonus during FF maxes out at 250M. That's where I get the bulk of my points - my goal during FF is to keep all 6 balls active for as long as possible, but ultimately get it down to 3 in the subway so that you're dealing with only 1 ball on the playfield at a time. When in that "zone", I can keep hitting the center hole as the left VUK keeps feeding the left inlane. My personable best there is somewhere around 20 shots in a row. I usually get 5 or 6 in a row, miss the hole, 2nd ball feeds to left flipper, and try to get both in and get back to one at a time method.

My scoring strategy is now heavily weighted to getting artifacts for the FF bonus points. Unless I'm a mission or two away from getting to FF, I'm pretty much targeting the holodeck at ball launch to do the shuttle maze video. I can get an artifact with that about 90% of the time now...I usually crash only if I let my mind wander. Sometimes, tho, on that very last cave where you pick up the artifact my finger will twitch as I'm changing "lanes" and I'll fly right by the artifact and miss picking it up! That is sooooo aggravating...

#4164 3 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Wow! That's amazing! When you do a 2nd Final Frontier, do you get credit for all artifacts you collected so far and get a bigger bonus or does it only count the ones collected since the first Final Frontier? I hope someday to be able to find out for myself but until then I'm just curious

I was too slow to respond lol.. Post edited.

All artifacts collected so far. It goes quickly at a certain point. I went from 7b to 19b in a heartbeat once after starting my 2nd FF with 14 or 15 artifacts.

#4165 3 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Agree, before touching anything else, measure the voltage on TP2 and write it down. And then measure the voltage at pin 32 on the game rom (U6) on the CPU board and write it down. Then come back and tell us the voltages. Of course you can also follow the (excellent) guide mentioned above.

Voltage at TP2 (test point 2) on the Power Driver Board is 4.98vdc. (for ground I went to the plane screw cause I couldn't find the ground TP).

Voltage at the CPU board (ROM Pin 32) is measuring 4.93vdc. I did re-seat the connectors, the voltage at the CPU is now 4.95vdc. Given the difference it seems like I need to re-pin the connectors between these boards.

Where does one source 'trifurcon' connectors to re-pin the connectors?

STTNG-PowerDriverBoard-TP2-voltage (resized).jpgSTTNG-PowerDriverBoard-TP2-voltage (resized).jpg
#4166 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Voltage at TP2 (test point 2) on the Power Driver Board is 4.98vdc. (for ground I went to the plane screw cause I couldn't find the ground TP).
Voltage at the CPU board (ROM Pin 32) is measuring 4.93vdc. I did re-seat the connectors, the voltage at the CPU is now 4.95vdc. Given the difference it seems like I need to re-pin the connectors between these boards.
Where does one source 'trifurcon' connectors to re-pin the connectors?[quoted image]

To replace an original IDC connector to a trifurcon - you'll need trifurcon terminals, connector housing, and a good crimping tool to ensure a proper connection.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CT156T
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF15613 (get the right sized housing to suit the connectors you're replacing)
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=trifurcon (shows the various housing connectors and the terminals)
https://www.pinballlife.com/molex-crimp-tool-for-0156-terminals.html

#4167 3 years ago

Ok, just got my STTNG back from a friend. The ball launch keeps launching balls when you start a game. Any suggestions on where I should start trouble shooting? I want to replace the boards in the back back box and clean up the ribbons and wiring. Any suggestions on where I can get replacement boards?

#4168 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Voltage at the CPU board (ROM Pin 32) is measuring 4.93vdc. I did re-seat the connectors, the voltage at the CPU is now 4.95vdc. Given the difference it seems like I need to re-pin the connectors between these boards.

I disagree, you are only dropping .02V through 4 connections ... this does go through a Z connectors. If I did replace the header and connector on the CPU, I would personally just use an the same style header and IDC.

#4169 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott9:

Ok, just got my STTNG back from a friend. The ball launch keeps launching balls when you start a game. Any suggestions on where I should start trouble shooting?

Sounds like a staging problem. Start with your subway diverters, ensure they are operating correctly and not gummed up or locked on.

Quoted from Scott9:

I want to replace the boards in the back back box.

I would not recommend this action unless your boards are unrepairable due to severe corrosion or hacked really bad by botched repairs. Why do you want to replace all your boards?

#4170 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I disagree, you are only dropping .02V through 4 connections ... this does go through a Z connectors. If I did replace the header and connector on the CPU, I would personally just use an the same style header and IDC.

I'd seen the reference to the 'Z connector' and was wondering what the heck it was, I was also looking at these connectors/wires and wondered if this hack in the middle of the grey cables was original. So much learning.

#4171 3 years ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Voltage at TP2 (test point 2) on the Power Driver Board is 4.98vdc. (for ground I went to the plane screw cause I couldn't find the ground TP).

I just noticed that you are using rechargeable batteries in your machine...this is an odd way to go as you will loose your settings every time the charge runs low.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

I would like to suggest IF you are going to use batteries, you should use AA Lithium batteries. (please no comments on NVRAM)

At the end of my STTNG Restoration in November 2015 I installed Energizer Ultimate AA lithium batteries as I know how reliable they are. I never check these batteries as there is no reason to and I plan on posting in this channel when when they eventually drain down enough that they can no longer power the clock and RAM; as of yesterday they are still holding fine in a machine that is at the most turned on once or twice a month.

I used similar 9V version in my home smoke detectors; I replaced all my smoke detectors when they became 10 years old and the batteries lastest the entire time without that middle of the night low battery chirp!

#4172 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I just noticed that you are using rechargeable batteries in your machine...this is an odd way to go as you will loose your settings every time the charge runs low.
[quoted image]
I would like to suggest IF you are going to use batteries, you should use AA Lithium batteries. (please no comments on NVRAM)
At the end of my STTNG Restoration in November 2015 I installed Energizer Ultimate AA lithium batteries as I know how reliable they are. I never check these batteries as there is no reason to and I plan on posting in this channel when when they eventually drain down enough that they can no longer power the clock and RAM; as of yesterday they are still holding fine in a machine that is at the most turned on once or twice a month.
I used similar 9V version in my home smoke detectors; I replaced all my smoke detectors when they became 10 years old and the batteries lastest the entire time without that middle of the night low battery chirp!

I too changed to lithium AA batteries and have had no issues. Still going strong 3 years later for some of them.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4173 3 years ago

Did someone say NVRAM? Bwaaaa haa, couldn’t help myself.

I personally do NVRAM simply because it’s cheap, but more importantly, I love doing board work. I wish I had a dead game right now that needed board work...

#4174 3 years ago

I'm having an issue with my right orbit lock rejecting the ball frequently. The drop target works correctly and drops level with the playfield. The post rubber near the lock hole is a standard titan rubber. Is this usually an issue with the angle of the metal bracket that is back there?

#4175 3 years ago

Wanna kick some ass in a STTNG tournament?

Hey guys, I'm trying to set up an online tournament for next Friday (April 17th), and I'm trying to recruit participants that have one of the games I have. I'm going to be posting this in each of the forums for the games I own, so I apologize in advance if you get this more than once.

The tournament would be on a single game and take place over zoom. It sounds like it could be a hell of a good time.

Please head over here for info: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/online-tournament-over-zoom-#post-5587755

Oh, and STTNG is losing out to JJPPOC in the best game of all time poll. It's close though. Go vote!

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#4177 3 years ago

Quoted from Scott9:
Ok, just got my STTNG back from a friend. The ball launch keeps launching balls when you start a game. Any suggestions on where I should start trouble shooting?

Sounds like a staging problem. Start with your subway diverters, ensure they are operating correctly and not gummed up or locked on.

Quoted from Scott9:
I want to replace the boards in the back back box.

I would not recommend this action unless your boards are unrepairable due to severe corrosion or hacked really bad by botched repairs. Why do you want to replace all your boards?

The coils look pretty burnt out on the diverters. I am going to replace them, hopefully this works...

I am shopping out the machine with a new cabinet, playfield, graphics, coils, ect... So I figured that since I am going to have the machine torn apart that this would be a good time to clean up some of the panels. I bought the replacement panel for the power spike issue and since I am installing a color DMD I thought this would be a good time to replace the DMD board. I am also upgrading the sound board. Huge mistake?

#4178 3 years ago

Scott9 my sttng started doing that last week and I ended up having to replace the green trough board and it stopped and has been working fine. Not sure if it is the same problem or if that helps any.
(I am referring to the balls keep launching)

#4179 3 years ago

extremely gunked up, but that didn't fix the issue. I ran a solenoid test and the right cannon and right bumper are not functioning. Fuse?

#4180 3 years ago

Wat - Do you remember what board it was that you purchased and from where?

#4181 3 years ago

Scott9 It was #a-17982. Green opto board. I ordered it from Marco. I had ran a test and I think opto number 1 was out I think?

#4182 3 years ago

Thank you... I ordered a replacement 7 ball through opto board yesterday matching that part number. So I should be good once this comes in... Thank you

#4183 3 years ago

Scott9 actually thinking about it you would have to figure out which board has the problem. Mine was that one but it could be the board on the other side for yours. I’m still learning this stuff so sorry I’m not very good at explaining stuff. ☹️

#4184 3 years ago

Scott9 no problem. Give an update when you figure out the problem.

#4185 3 years ago

Extremely gunked up, but not the issue...

5 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpg
#4186 3 years ago

I bought all of the boards that I think I might have to replace. The ones I don't use will go into my home stock for a future issue.

Boards Order (resized).JPGBoards Order (resized).JPG
#4187 3 years ago

Had my STTNG powder coated last year. I am swapping out the playfield and cabinets now and switching it to a STTNG Borg Theme

Matt 1 (resized).JPGMatt 1 (resized).JPGMatt 2 (resized).JPGMatt 2 (resized).JPGMatt 3 (resized).JPGMatt 3 (resized).JPGMatt 5 (resized).JPGMatt 5 (resized).JPGMatt 6 (resized).JPGMatt 6 (resized).JPG
#4188 3 years ago

Scott9 looks great! I just messaged a Pinside yesterday about getting some powder coating done. Thought I knew what I wanted to do and then I got looking at all the options and now I’m lost lol. To many options!

With your powder coating being dark, how well can you see it when it is in your house? I’m leaning toward a similar look but worried it won’t be noticeable in the house.

#4189 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott9:

since I am installing a color DMD I thought this would be a good time to replace the DMD board.

IMO this would be pointless as the majority (close to 100%) of all DMD board problems are with the high voltage section. The color DMD runs off of 12V exclusively which virtually eliminates DMD driver board issues, you still get occational header or ram issues but these are infrequent and easily rectifiable. I actually suggest anyone installing a Color DMD remove the high voltage fuses from the DMD board completely after installing a low voltage display.

#4190 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott9:

Extremely gunked up, but not the issue...

how is the other one?

#4191 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott9:

I bought all of the boards that I think I might have to replace. The ones I don't use will go into my home stock for a future issue.[quoted image]

Nothing like throwing money at it trying to fix issues, I always repair the original Bally / Williams boards not a big fan of rottendog stuff, granted sometimes you don’t have a choice.

#4192 3 years ago

pfinny; I agree.
I want disappointed when my new Monsterbash had a Rotten PowerDriver board. But what are you gonna do?

#4193 3 years ago
Quoted from Watkinsd13:

scott9 looks great! I just messaged a Pinside yesterday about getting some powder coating done. Thought I knew what I wanted to do and then I got looking at all the options and now I’m lost lol. To many options!
With your powder coating being dark, how well can you see it when it is in your house? I’m leaning toward a similar look but worried it won’t be noticeable in the house.

I have a lot of UV lighting in my game room so it shows well, when I have the normal lights on it also looks good. So no complaints about it either way. Check with Matt at Back Alley Creations, he does amazing powder coating for me.

#4194 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

how is the other one?

I don't have any issues with the DMD that is in the machine. I also purchased a fix for the voltage issues. Now I feel like a child repeating words I hear my daddy saying compared to the level of expertise you have with this machine. So I will literally take any advice you can give me. I have thick skin, so feel free to call me dumb ass and a moron when appropriate. LOL

#4195 3 years ago
Quoted from pfinny:

Nothing like throwing money at it trying to fix issues, I always repair the original Bally / Williams boards not a big fan of rottendog stuff, granted sometimes you don’t have a choice.

I have a feeling that I am going to be returning a handful of these boards. I just wanted to have everything in hand incase I had an issue when I moved everything over to the new cabinets ... Who do you get your boards from?

#4196 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott9:

I have a feeling that I am going to be returning a handful of these boards. I just wanted to have everything in hand incase I had an issue when I moved everything over to the new cabinets ... Who do you get your boards from?

I’ll share something I had to learn from experience:

New boards don’t always solve your current issues, and will sometimes create new ones.

Until you spend weeks chasing down a problem you created with a new, and unnecessary, board you may not understand.

#4197 3 years ago
Quoted from Scott9:

I have a feeling that I am going to be returning a handful of these boards. I just wanted to have everything in hand incase I had an issue when I moved everything over to the new cabinets

It would be best to fix everything you can before doing this cabinet swap, or take really good notes on exactly what doesn't work; that way if you have a better way to judge if problems you have afterward were pre-existing issues, or problems that are new and likely caused by the move.

#4198 3 years ago

Are there any US vendors that carry this light board for STTNG?
Thanks for the help.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#4199 3 years ago
Quoted from TimBoch:

Are there any US vendors that carry this light board for STTNG?
Thanks for the help.[quoted image]

That might be a really tough one to find, are you completely missing it?

#4200 3 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

That might be a really tough one to find, are you completely missing it?

No. It has just had a history of socket issues and I fear one day it will fail. Be nice to have a backup.

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