Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993Quoted from Pin_Guy:A little high but not really that bad given how hard it is to find these anymore; you will also need the sensor cable assembly A-17064.
The way the Aussie dollar is falling, that board is getting cheaper by the day ....
I have Tangles sensor boards in my MB and have had no issues, works a treat
Quoted from Manny65:The way the Aussie dollar is falling, that board is getting cheaper by the day ....
Very true, this is why I purchased a new translite from Mr. Pinball yesterday ... In hindsight I should have purchased two.
My STTNG has firmware LA-7 installed and I see many references/posts with folks having LX-7 firmware. From what I've been able to gather, LA-7 is the "US" version of code while LX-7 is the "Exported" version of code that has additional languages available. Is this true? Are there any other code differences?
I'm going to buy a ColorDMD soon and the required game FW level posted on their site is LX-7. I'm thinking LA-7 would be the same.
Quoted from Mathazar:I'm going to buy a ColorDMD soon and the required game FW level posted on their site is LX-7. I'm thinking LA-7 would be the same.
They are, you will be fine with your current ROM.
Looks like I need a the 8 driver board....fixing this for a friend. I see the are only about $40 or so from vendors unless someone has one for sale cheaper...
Quoted from Mathazar:How is that switch (seemingly) replacing the entire functionality of the left A-16922 Proximity Sensor II PCB? I would love to put this back to factory if I can get my hands on a replacement PCB, but the pin seems 100% functional and I also don't want to screw that up.
I think someone is selling those MR switches or something like them here on Pinside. The Eddy or proximity sensor that is original (and there should be one on your right inlane too IIRC) has a Eddy effect sensor that has to be powered so that board is serving the functions of biasing up the sensor and adjusting it's sensitivity via the potentiometer mounted on the board as well as displaying via an LED when the switch is tripped plus converting that to a switch matrix input. The magnetic switch on the other hand is only doing the last thing - creating a switch closure input to the switch matrix just like any other mechanical switch would along with the required diode of course.
I picked up my STTNG a little under two weeks ago and have been playing it exclusively while getting it to fully function - probably have played 50-60 games. Tonight I played a couple of my other pins for the first time since picking up STTNG (STPro and BKSOR)....they seem so "small" and I swear I'm playing them better and faster after spending so much time a widebody!
I've got enough time on my new-to-me STTNG now that I'm pretty confident in it working 100%. I ordered a Tangles Eddy board and cable assembly today to replace the workaround switch a previous owner did on the left inlane, and a new ColorDMD is slated to arrive Monday. An LED conversion (with OCD boards) is in the near future after I get the playfield cleaned up (topside tear-down, new posts, maybe new plastics, maybe new ramps, tumble metal bits, clean/wax, etc.).
I do have a bulb out under one of the yellow Neutral Zone inserts....looks like I need to remove the subway in order to access those bulbs for replacing? Does the whole thing have to come out or can it be partially moved to get access? If the whole subway has to be removed, I might save this particular job for the future when I do the LED conversion.
I've got a few other questions that I'll put in individual posts.....
Mylar is starting to bubble a bit over the JACKPOT and EXTRA BALL inserts. If the ball is rolling slow enough over them, it does affect the trajectory. Recommendations? Last year I tried removing mylar from the sling areas of another project (using freeze spray) but it didn't go well...still lifted paint. Wasn't too worried about that as I was installing a hardtop, just trying to make the surface smooth as possible before laying it down. I'm tempted to just live with this on my STTNG.
IMG_7835 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mathazar:Is there anything missing here (to the left of the Neutral Zone) besides a screw on the plastics?
Yes, that plastic typically extends down to the last post forming an arrowish shape. Plastic basically follows the keyline on the art (outlining wood).
My game also has that broken plastic. Common for most games.
Quoted from Mathazar:I'm guessing a previous owner secured it with a nail? That should be a regular screw-post, right?
yes; and the alpha ramp - and a ?cliffy? ramp protector should attach to it. In your picture your ramp is broken and the plastic is missing.
Quoted from Mathazar:Recommendations? Focused wet sanding?
Common. Leave it alone unless you want to replace the inserts and/or a new PF.
Quoted from Mathazar:Is there anything missing here (to the left of the Neutral Zone) besides a screw on the plastics? Somehow it doesn't look quite right to me.
Your plastic is broken is all,
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Mathazar:That should be a regular screw-post, right?
Yes, its also supposed to have a thick yellow rubber on it.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Mathazar:Mylar is starting to bubble a bit over the JACKPOT and EXTRA BALL inserts. If the ball is rolling slow enough over them, it does affect the trajectory. Recommendations?
I used freeze spray and all the original mylar came right off with no issues; you just have to go slow and work a little at a time.
Quoted from Mathazar:Shield inserts are in pretty rough shape visually, at least when the insert lights are off. When they're on, it doesn't look that bad but it's still noticeable. Recommendations? Focused wet sanding?
There is no easy way to fix this and those inserts are now made out of unobtanium.
In for a penny, in for a pound. Like I knew I would, I just plopped down $700 on my bargain $3K STTNG. Just ordered new ramps (all three), steel ramp guards, Cliffy's for Neutral Zone, Mission Start, and Catapult, new posts, new rubber sleeves, new rubber kit, and a new plastics set plus plastic protectors. Add that to the $70 Eddy board and cable assembly I bought earlier today and the $400 ColorDMD that should be here Monday....hoo boy! But I *love* this game.
Going to need to recover a bit before pulling the trigger on a set of LEDs plus LED and GI OCD boards. The above will keep me busy for a while.
Quoted from Mathazar:Put the new ColorDMD in tonight....wow. the ColorDMD breathes totally new life into a 27 year old pin.[quoted image]
Agreed. BTW Pinsound is as awesome of an upgrade as the ColorDMD, especially since there are upgraded sound packages for sttng.
While putting the ColorDMD last night, I came across a new mystery in the backbox that I'm hoping someone can help me decipher. Keep in mind that since fixing the cannons a couple weeks ago, I've got about 60 games on the pin and everything is working (all switches, all solenoids, all lamps but one insert in the Neutral Zone, all modes behaving properly, including Final Frontier, no Credit Dot, no Test Report)
I found two clipped wires that are bundled together in the same wire-wrap by themselves: VIOLET-YELLOW AND VIOLET-BLACK. VIOLET-YELLOW can go to lots of places (50V for solenoids) but I can find reference in the wiring guide docs to only one place for VIOLET-BLACK and that's Solenoid 7 (KNOCKER). When I look at the Knocker, it has VIOLET-BLACK already attached. And it works. And there's a Molex connector for the wires going into the Knocker where one end opposite the Knocker has two VIOLET-YELLOW wires tied together.
Is that Molex connector to the Knocker factory or a hack?
Are there other places in the pin that has a VIOLET-BLACK wire besides the Knocker?
Thanx in advance for any insight....
IMG_7848 (resized).jpgIMG_7851 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mathazar:Is that Molex connector to the Knocker factory or a hack?
Looks factory, although the wire to the knocker itself is super long.
I would trace the cut wires back to see where they actually go.
pasted_image (resized).pngQuoted from Pin_Guy:Looks factory, although the wire to the knocker itself is super long.
I would trace the cut wires back to see where they actually go.
OK, this is a little bizarre. I traced the cut VIOLET-YELLOW and VIOLET-BLACK two-wire bundle...it went down the gray (right side) tubing channel to the lower cabinet. There should be no VIOLET-BLACK wires in the lower cabinet. I inspected the wires coming out of the gray channel tube, no VIOLET-BLACK wires. Huh? Either the wires are spliced to different colored wires inside the gray channel tube or they're not attached to anything. I tugged on them, and they came up and out. So I've got this two-wire VIOLET-BLACK and VIOLET-YELLOW set about a foot long cut at both ends (no bare wires showing) connected to nothing.
My guess is if VIOLET-BLACK really is only for the Knocker, and the Knocker is wired up and working albeit with what looks like way longer wire than factory, that someone along the way rewired the Knocker (with the same color coded wires as factory) and for some reason left the clipped section of original wires still in the backbox wiring harness.
IMG_7852 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mathazar:My guess is if VIOLET-BLACK really is only for the Knocker, and the Knocker is wired up and working albeit with what looks like way longer wire than factory, that someone along the way rewired the Knocker (with the same color coded wires as factory) and for some reason left the clipped section of original wires still in the backbox wiring harness.
I would concur, according to the STTNG parts list, the knocker assembly wires should be 18AWG red and black wires that are 2.5" long as shown in the picture I posted earlier.
pasted_image (resized).png*Editted out the manual pic* you found that info.. Otherwise violet-yelllow 50V does seem to also extend to the cab for a number of things.. Perhaps trace back from one of the guns/kickback to see if someone spliced in some other wire.. Or just shortened the run for some reason.. If kickback/guns/plunger work someone changed some part of the wire for some reason..
Anyone seen a scoring "rollover"? I searched on the thread and forums a bit but didn't find any mention. Had a semi-epic game this afternoon- 17,984,238,880 after about an hour of play, 3-ball setting, 4 Extra Balls collected along the way, 2 complete Final Frontiers and one shot away from starting a 3rd Final Frontier. But during gameplay, the score rolled back to 0 after 9,999,999,990. When the game was over, the full correct score shows up in the high score list. I noticed this a couple of times before on previous games when I passed the 9,999,999,990 mark but this time I took some pictures. First picture shows the correct score on the High Score list while the second picture shows the score after the game ended, with the missing 10B digit (which is how it was displayed during gameplay after 9,999,999,990).
Known bug?
IMG_7855 (resized).jpgIMG_7854 (resized).jpgQuoted from Mathazar:Anyone seen a scoring "rollover"? I searched on the thread and forums a bit but didn't find any mention. Had a semi-epic game this afternoon- 17,984,238,880 after about an hour of play, 3-ball setting, 4 Extra Balls collected along the way, 2 complete Final Frontiers and one shot away from starting a 3rd Final Frontier. But during gameplay, the score rolled back to 0 after 9,999,999,990. When the game was over, the full correct score shows up in the high score list. I noticed this a couple of times before on previous games when I passed the 9,999,999,990 mark but this time I took some pictures. First picture shows the correct score on the High Score list while the second picture shows the score after the game ended, with the missing 10B digit (which is how it was displayed during gameplay after 9,999,999,990).
Known bug?[quoted image][quoted image]
Wow! Amazing game! I can only wish I encounter that bug some day 
Quoted from PantherCityPins:Found this in the bottom of my STTNG. Any idears?
You don't want to find those in the bottom, they are part of your playfield support system.
pasted_image (resized).png
They bolt thru the cabinet:
pasted_image (resized).pngFound it and reinstalled. Thank you sir!
While I have the playfield up, I am going to take a look at my neutral zone switch. I don't seem to get credit for hitting it sometimes. For example, I will get the alert for a multiball like the Romulan one but then I shoot the neutral zone and nothing happens. Is that usually the target not registering?
Quoted from PantherCityPins:For example, I will get the alert for a multiball like the Romulan one but then I shoot the neutral zone and nothing happens. Is that usually the target not registering?
You have to shoot it in the hole to start the multiballs. Do you mean the switch in the subway?
the subway opto isnt directly tied to the neutral zone. it provides closure for both the Neutral Zone and the Advance Rank holes, with no switch closure from the neutral zone switch, game assumes a closure of the subway switch was caused by a ball entering the Advance Rank hole.
Replacing my small 8 driver board with a new one. It comes with 4 1/2" white spacers....My screws are not long enough and I dont have others. It looks like these can be taken off the new board since it mounts on metal spacers. I'm sure its fine but before I remove them, anyone else replace the same board and just remove these?
Thx
Quoted from billsfanmd:It looks like these can be taken off the new board since it mounts on metal spacers.
Can you post a pic of the bottom side of the board?
Quoted from Pin_Guy:Can you post a pic of the bottom side of the board?
Here it is
CBD1290E-FEE9-409C-B6A7-834C080C12C2 (resized).jpegIs there a Left/Right balance control for the speakers either in the adjustments menu software or a pot or something on the sound board (I can't find either)? While I'm getting sound out of both speakers, the left speaker is noticeably dominant with higher volume. I've reflowed the solder points on the speakers (the right speaker is daisychained off of the left speaker) and checked the connectors back to the sound board. I also tried replacing the daisychain wires from the left speaker to the right speaker. Note: I had a bad cap on the right speaker that I've replaced. With the bad cap, I got NO sound out of the right speaker. With the replacement cap (or the cap bypassed altogether), I get sound out of the right speaker but at about 70% of the volume of the left speaker.
At some point I'll upgrade the original speakers to something better, but I'm wondering if I might have an underlying sound board issue here if there are no Left/Right balance control adjustments that can be made.
Quoted from Mathazar:Is there a Left/Right balance control for the speakers either in the adjustments menu software or a pot or something on the sound board (I can't find either)?
I doubt it / don't think so.
I'm about 90% sure that WMS did this on purpose. The left and right speakers are actually different and probably address different tonal ranges. IIRC; one speaker is bigger which means it's probably handles low to mid range. While the other has a smaller cone and maybe a tweeter built in for better "high range".
I think WMS "tuned" the speaker setup to get the best overall sound based upon some assessment. Of course; they probably did this once in a different model; and replicated the same speaker setup across many games/models.
I'm no audio expert; so others feel free to chime in.
I've committed to fixing this sucker this weekend. Still have row short White Vio Row 7 and can't figure it out. Having trouble finding a few switches. I believe that someone has rewired this thing with different colors at some point making finding some of the switches a bear.
Could someone help me find a few switches?
Right Return Lane - 17
Under R Gun SW 1 -37
Under Borg Hole - 47
Made Right Ramp - 87
I can't find a white violet wire on anything in these areas.
Quoted from SDVmnt:Having trouble finding a few switches. I believe that someone has rewired this thing with different colors at some point making finding some of the switches a bear.
Quoted from SDVmnt:Right Return Lane - 17
This is the eddy sensor board under the playfield.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from SDVmnt:Under R Gun SW 1
Right VUK opto 1 - Controlled by 16 opto board under the playfield
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from SDVmnt:Under Borg Hole - 47
Quoted from SDVmnt:Made Right Ramp - 87
This one is an actual switch
pasted_image (resized).png
Additional helpful information:
16 Opto board wire color chart
pasted_image (resized).png
Since both the Row 7 optos from the 16 opto board are giving you issues, I would look at the 16 opto board row 7 connection @ J5-7 first; it should have the wire color you are looking for.
pasted_image (resized).png
Good luck with your repairs!
Pin_Guy - The help you offer on this forum is absolutely amazing!!! 
Always extremely helpful (like so many others), but add to that the pictures, diagrams and in depth info, you just stand out. Really really awesome!!!
Thank you!
Phantasize Thank you for your kind words, I find that pictures and diagrams are the best medium to relay technical information. It also helps tremendously that I have over a thousand pictures at my disposal from when I performed a full restoration on this title.
You are the man Pin_guy! I found them all and all look good, nothing obvious anyways. Still the only thing that clears the row is by disconnecting the Green Black wire from the 57 Top Drop target. I replaced that switch and Diode but that didn't help. Any suggestions on what should I check next?
Quoted from SDVmnt:Still the only thing that clears the row is by disconnecting the Green Black wire from the 57 Top Drop target.
Can you send me a picture of it?
What happens with the large connector on the 16 opto board disconnected?
What happens with the trough photo transistor board disconnected?
Quoted from SDVmnt:You are the man Pin_guy! I found them all and all look good, nothing obvious anyways. Still the only thing that clears the row is by disconnecting the Green Black wire from the 57 Top Drop target. I replaced that switch and Diode but that didn't help. Any suggestions on what should I check next?
Reversed diode?
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