So I am ready to do all my new connectors, but unfortunately my labeling got screwed up. Would someone mind taking pics of the CPU idc connectors that clearly show which color wire on which pin?
Thanks in advance

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Hi,
I have a STTNG. I had a weak flipper on the left side. It is especially noticeable after4-6 balls of play. I rebuilt the two lower flippers including new coils. Now the left flipper seems weak all the time. I have visually checked the connectors on the Fliptronics board J902 & J907 and there is no heat damage or pin/connector darkening. Does anyone have any suggestions what I should look at next?
Thanks

Are these adequate?

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Thank you. Perfect!

Every wire color for every connector you are looking for is listed on the same page you posted an image from

I know, but I don't trust it

Also J-206 and J-207: and J-208 and J-209 are interchangeable, incase you ever have a broken pin/solder joint etc.

That good to know.

Heads up: Star Trek: Picard premiers sometime today (Jan 23) on CBS All Access. Not sure what time; as CBS hasn't offer that nugget of information.
Outside of North America; it premiers on Amazon Prime Jan 24th.

If you didn't watch "The View" this morning; Patrick Steward was there talking about his show. He dropped this bomb on one of the hosts.

Let's celebrate the arrival of Star Trek: Picardwith a pinball sale!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1day-only-sale-capt-picard-day-6-16#post-5430279

I do, but only Eneloop brand made in Japan ones. Best you can buy. Stay away from mainstream energizer/Duracell, etc.
I have over 50 circulating in multiple devices inside/outside of house. Never had one leak but prementioned brands do. I also only use a La Cross smart charger so as to test and not damage the batteries.

Here are the second generation STTNG decals with gold and colour!
Fully laminated on stainless steel film.

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Shopping a STTNG for a friend....Boards back from repair and game boots and looks good. Just need to shop, and clean it up. Only issue I saw right away is the left cannon went back and forth for like a minute and the message said cant find home. Is this optos or switches underneath.

They are a bit noisy. DO people try and lubricate or leave alone?

I know this game has alot of optos. Ill clean them all.

Thx in advance for any help.

Look sweet.

Can't find home is caused by one of the physical switches under the PF, there is an opto in each cannon to sense when a ball is loaded. If they are really noisy you can disassemble them and remove the old grease that's probably dirty and caked up.

thx. Easy to take apart? should I put some silcone sparay or leave alone? I know this is an ongoing pinball argument to lubricate moving parts or not

I probably wouldn’t, it’s right by a coil so it will get gunked up again pretty quick, a good cleaning should suffice.

Basic disassembly isn't too hard, full tear down is a bit tougher. I'm pretty sure Pin_Guy has posted some of his detailed pictures and tear-down information in this thread, search for key words or his posts in this thread to find them.

I need these in my life!

Thanks for ripping off an original mod and making it inferior. Class act all the way. You're paying Nycon a royalty, right?

From my understanding these are metal on metal contact so should be cleaned up and a thin layer of grease applied, I was following the advice that Pin_Guy posted three years ago, the super lube stuff is great!

If you like the look of those decals and wanted a set of your own shipped from the states, what would you recommend?

Whoah!!

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I'd love to do it too. I lubed the shafts of my cannons, but the gear boxes are still noisy. I know I've seen the post *somewhere*, and I believe the boxes are riveted together. No small feat to pull apart just to clean and lube...

I read a post some time, maybe back in the RGP days about putting the gear box in an ultrasonic cleaner, drying it out real well and then using some machine oil to re-lube it. May be a better choice than drilling out the rivets if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner.

Original mod here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-sttng-mod-for-ball-popper-housings-and-other-parts
His are printed stickers

For the record, I'm about 90% sure this dude bought a nycon set from me a scanned into his computer and now duplicates the inferior copy onto sticker stock using his printer.

Thanks mappy24 for covering this

All metal-on-metal moving parts were lubricated, but back in the early 90's the grease was clay based and hardened over time...today's silicone grease will perform better and last much longer. The super lube PTFE grease is similar to the grease used on the wheel inside your mouse.

Its not so bad to take apart:
1) disconnect the 3 molex connectors for the gun assembly.
2) remove the 4 screws that hold the gun bracket to the plate nut.
3) remove the single screw and washer that holds the gun shaft to the drive plate
4) remove the gun assembly while carefully feeding the wires through the play field
5) pull out the gun shaft, you may have to twist it while pulling up on it if the old grease is in really bad shape.

Looked up while playing Whirlwind and saw this. Educate me please.

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It’s a breakout game you can play in holodeck. Here’s a thread with info:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-breakout-video-spoiler#post-1308237

Old school breakout

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-breakout-video-spoiler#post-1308382

Dang too slow ... I was trying to find my STTNG code list.

This forum is for people who like STTNG pinballs and topics related to it. Your commercial driven biased opinions don't belong here.
For the record my decals are not inferior in any way. As a matter of fact they are superior. I have seen the laser etched version and did no like them. The metal is unprotected and goes dull over time. My decals are fully laminated for the brushed metal to stay shiny for ever. They can also absorb ball hits much better. The artwork resolution of mine is also far superior. And thirdly the adhesion film I use is the best money can buy. In regards to "ripping off" I find it quite hilarious that you have stolen, reproduced and sold the original Star trek artwork but claim royalties for those stolen images for yourself and your friend. Get real Mr.Zitt!

Note: there are several tiny washers, these will be covered in grease and easy to loose.

scooter8416 did a truly outstanding job on his.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/54#post-4787670

Counterstrike! Where's my popcorn?
Hell no.gif

Sorry I couldn't help myself ...

Sure let's get real.
You couldn't even be bothered to come up with original work... so how can it be:

when it's obvious to everyone who is paying attention that you exactly copied everything from the Nycon design. It's obviously a SCAN of the Nycon layout. So you are saying you painstakingly created every piece of art by yourself AFTER receiving the parts from me? You couldn't even be bothered until recently to "change" your print from black and white exact copy to "somewhat" color.

Look... I participate in this thread. You don't. My commercial bias is well founded.
Sure it's just "coincidence" that you posted your blatant copy after I mentioned Nycon's were on sale on my site after saying how much I enjoyed Star Trek: Picard.

I'll let the community figure out for themselves if your product is "superior". It's obvious to anyone that you didn't have this "idea" until you received an original set.

Lies. The material laser etch by Nycon is a bushed metal laser plastic. It can't go "dull" as you put it.
My original set still looks exactly the same over 1.5 years later. Do you live in an atmosphere of HCl? :rolleyes:

Product positioning. You had to laminate your stickers because
1) Yours are thin garbage... you had to make them resilent to avoid scratches by a fingernail.
2) Inkjet prints smear when people touch them... especially on this type of material. You have to laminate your stickers to keep the quality "on par" with Nycons.

LOL. Ball Strikes? On the outside of a VUK housing... On a switch bracket above a ramp?
Man, I don't want to play your misadjusted pinball machines.

That's right; because you're a material expert. You've tested your Nycon sample chemically and know there is something wrong with it?
Product positioning.

Pot... hello kettle.
I'm not sure I'd be saying that given you literally scanned a Nycon copy and inkjet print them to sticker paper. You couldn't even be bothered to come up with an original design.
Congrats; you win the argument. It's obvious you have a superior product in every way. Bravo. :rolleyes:

I'm done defending Nycon's product to this "commercially biased" copy-cat. I'll let the community decide if they want to support the original designer or the copycat. For the record; I don't make these product. Nycon - the original artwork artist does. I import them from Nycon. So; I support the original artist.

Dude you are out of control! I have never seen that much BS in one post! This forum is for STTNG fans not for your rants. Get a life.

Great fact driven response. Not a personal attack at all. Gotcha.

Posts by BioBa… 12.
Posts by Zitt… pages … too many to hand count.

Cool. Everybody had their say. Can we move along now?

Amen!

I have a pair of custom painted cannon covers for STTNG that I didn't use when I had my Star Trek. PM me if interested.

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Hey does anyone know how I can set my machine to .25 per play? Is that even possible?

As long as you have a coin door with a coin slot and a .25 coin mech installed, then yes, you can adjust the settings for 1 credit/ 1 play. In the Pricing adjustments.

Man....I looked. I was all over the pricing menu, and closest I could get was .50 per play.

Custom pricing (A.3.1.). Then pick whichever coin slot is active (A.3.2-5) and set to 1.

Units/Credits (A.3.6) set to 1.

Or just change the value of the coin slot to .50 (settings A.3.12-15). It'll think 1 coin = .50

STTNG is too great of a game to only cost .25 per play so they make it hard to do.

I am selling this decal set for the two cannons. If anybody is interested just pm me

Those look pretty nice, and they fit the general art of the game. Plus, they don’t completely steal from another person’s idea! Win-win!