(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 30 minutes ago by cocomonkeh
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There are 3180 posts in this topic. You are on page 64 of 64.
#3151 14 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The coil mounting holes in the original VUK were oval (slotted) so that the positioning can be adjusted, if firing too hard, move it down a little and if too weak move it up a little. there is only a little wiggle room here, but after a couple position adjustments mine works flawlessly (original coil).

Rebuilding a flipper is one of the easiest things to do, I would just do it; you dont even have to desolder the coil, just let it hang by the wires.

Thanks for the tips! I moved the eject VUK up and now it's too strong. Going to do some fine tuning and it will be 100%.

Did the flipper rebuilds. 1 hour for the first one, 30 minutes for the second, and 15 minutes for the third. Just takes a little practice. WOW! I had no idea how dirty those things were, and it's like having new flippers! The ball screams up the ramp now. I now know how to fix weak flippers, and will be rebuilding flippers on a few games going forward.

Thanks again for the tips!

1 week later
#3152 8 days ago

One would think that there would be an adjustment for the ball save timer (Return to Duty), yet, I see none. I assume it’s not there, or am I somehow overlooking it?

#3153 8 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

One would think that there would be an adjustment for the ball save timer (Return to Duty), yet, I see none. I assume it’s not there, or am I somehow overlooking it?

Here's a link to an online manual. Return to Duty settings are described on pages 1-20 and 1-28. Looks like only on/off setting and no ability to change the timer.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2357/Williams_1993_Star_Trek_The_Next_Generation_Operations_Manual_with_OCR.pdf

#3154 5 days ago

Does anyone know the part # for this switch under the cannon?

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#3155 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Does anyone know the part # for this switch under the cannon?[quoted image]

Technically I think they were Cherry DA3C-B1AA, which are NLA.

I have been using DB3C-B1AA switches, which require more force to actuate. I have them on all of my STTNG ramps and so far they've been fine. More details are in the post below.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games#post-4941787

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/zf-electronics/db3c-b1aa/?qs=Z9t1pRjfOcyNm7XI%2Fy9Iqw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Edited post since my pic wasn't working...

#3156 5 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Technically I think they were Cherry DA3C-B1AA, which are NLA.
I have been using DB3C-B1AA switches, which require more force to actuate. I have them on all of my STTNG ramps and so far they've been fine. More details are in the post below.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cherry-microswitches-in-wms-games#post-4941787
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/zf-electronics/db3c-b1aa/?qs=Z9t1pRjfOcyNm7XI%2Fy9Iqw%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
Edited post since my pic wasn't working...

Perfect, thanks!

I know I’m missing a hex post here, but I think I may also be missing the post below it.

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#3157 5 days ago
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#3158 5 days ago

I can’t claim that my above pic is totally stock, but the spacer most likely is. It was taken pre-restore, it’s much shinier now with new screws, washers and a lot of elbow grease.

#3159 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Perfect, thanks!
I know I’m missing a hex post here, but I think I may also be missing the post below it.[quoted image]

Here's mine:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/4dtq6vR6MJ8D7yGR7

#3160 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Does anyone know the part # for this switch under the cannon?

I would use this one ... the switch with a roller actuator arm was added during the original production of this machine.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-12953

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#3161 5 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Perfect, thanks!

I know I’m missing a hex post here, but I think I may also be missing the post below it.

I believe my game has these posts:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4934
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4659-1

#3162 5 days ago

What could cause the flipper coils to lock on for a few seconds when you turn the game on?

It’s blown F103, F112 and F11 in the past, but I’m not sure if it’s related. I put new LED’s in today and it looks like a lot of my flashers are not working. I just tested the fuses and they all appear to be good at the moment.

Edit: flashers are working in attract mode

#3163 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

What could cause the flipper coils to lock on for a few seconds when you turn the game on?
It’s blown F103, F112 and F11 in the past, but I’m not sure if it’s related. I put new LED’s in today and it looks like a lot of my flashers are not working. I just tested the fuses and they all appear to be good at the moment.
Edit: flashers are working in attract mode

I'd be checking the flipper transistors if your flippers are locking on. Check the manual for fuse lines if they are blowing. Sounds like you have some board work ahead.

#3164 4 days ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

I'd be checking the flipper transistors if your flippers are locking on. Check the manual for fuse lines if they are blowing. Sounds like you have some board work ahead.

It has a new MPU, new aux driver board, and transistors checked out ok on the FlipTronics ii.

Are you thinking there could be an issue with the FlipTronics besides the transistors?

#3165 4 days ago

Has anyone seen an issue where a shot to the Neutral Zone will register as if you shot the holodeck/lock hole? It happens on occasion on my machine. Worth noting is that I recently replaced all of the subway optos. Also worth nothing is that I also replaced the center (large) Neutral Zone target, and it's not dialed in. So sometimes a ball will go into the Neutral Zone hole without registering a hit on any of the Neutral Zone targets.

I *think* there's an opto between the holodeck hole and the Neutral Zone hole - I suppose a shot to the Neutral Zone could be rolling backwards up the subway and triggering that opto. It's my only explanation, just wondered if anyone has this issue.

#3166 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

What could cause the flipper coils to lock on for a few seconds when you turn the game on?

It’s blown F103, F112 and F11 in the past, but I’m not sure if it’s related. I put new LED’s in today and it looks like a lot of my flashers are not working. I just tested the fuses and they all appear to be good at the moment.

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

#3167 4 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

Thanks! Fliptronics and ribbon cables ordered. Hopefully I’ll throw enough new parts at it to fix it.

#3168 4 days ago
Quoted from Pinless:

it looks like a lot of my flashers are not working.

This is likely a connection issue or a broken wire on the bottom side of the playfield.

#3169 4 days ago
Quoted from PinJim:

Has anyone seen an issue where a shot to the Neutral Zone will register as if you shot the holodeck/lock hole? It happens on occasion on my machine. Worth noting is that I recently replaced all of the subway optos. Also worth nothing is that I also replaced the center (large) Neutral Zone target, and it's not dialed in. So sometimes a ball will go into the Neutral Zone hole without registering a hit on any of the Neutral Zone targets.
I *think* there's an opto between the holodeck hole and the Neutral Zone hole - I suppose a shot to the Neutral Zone could be rolling backwards up the subway and triggering that opto. It's my only explanation, just wondered if anyone has this issue.

The same thing happens on my machine and others I've played. I just assumed that was the standard behavior if you don't hit any targets when entering. If not...boy do a lot of machines need adjusted!

#3170 1 day ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I could be wrong, but the first thing I think of in this scenario is:
1) Bad drive transistor on the fliptronics board (energized til fuse blows) - this would not be a power on only issue
2) Failure of the blanking circuit to hold the Fliptronics board in a reset state at power on; most likely cause is a bad ribbon cable.

Just installed new ribbon cables and FlipTronics board. The board fixed the initial solenoid locking issue, but now it doesn’t boot up. It only displays a few dots on the DMD.

I’ve went over my connections a few times and I don’t see anything. Any suggestions? Or does someone see something I missed?
6BA98D8E-E1E6-47D3-87B7-F3ED01C0FB1B (resized).jpeg

Edit-found a ribbon cable not seated correctly. All is well. A STTNG is officially back from being dead 10+ years!

Thanks Pinside!

#3171 1 day ago

It played 1 game flawlessly and then proceeded to blow F103, F104 and F105. I think I jinxed it.

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#3172 1 day ago
Quoted from Pinless:

It played 1 game flawlessly and then proceeded to blow F103, F104 and F105. I think I jinxed it.

Hey that my avatar! LOL

But you now know one of the reasons I chose it

#3173 1 day ago
Quoted from Pinless:

It played 1 game flawlessly and then proceeded to blow F103, F104 and F105. I think I jinxed it.

There is literally no single point of failure that can cause all three of these fuses to blow at the same time (with no other malfunctions), due to segregation of the continuous duty 50V drive control to the 8-Driver board.

My only recommendation at this point is to pull your CPU board, put it on your bench and ensure the ASIC is seated firmly in its socket.

#3174 1 day ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Hey that my avatar! LOL
But you now know one of the reasons I chose it

It’s the perfect avatar for an owner of this game trying to diagnose multiple issues.

I’m at this level of frustration now:

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#3175 1 day ago

I got another round of fuses and it immediately blew F103 upon turning the power on.

Where should I start checking?

The CPU chip appears to be seated. Coils look ok.

I’m pretty sure I just bought the last 3A slow blow fuses witching a 30 mile radius

#3176 1 day ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I got another round of fuses and it immediately blew F103 upon turning the power on.
Where should I start checking?
The CPU chip appears to be seated. Coils look ok.
I’m pretty sure I just bought the last 3A slow blow fuses witching a 30 mile radius

I should add the following items are new:
MPU board
Aux board
FlipTronics board
All diverter coils including the drop/up target coil
Diverters/cannons are clean and free of gunk
Ribbon cables

I played 10+ games, then installed the FlipTronics and ribbon cables. The FlipTronics fixed the initial coil locking issue. Played 1 game and now it zaps f103 immediately upon power up.

#3177 5 hours ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I got another round of fuses and it immediately blew F103 upon turning the power on.

Where should I start checking?

This could be bad as you may have a broken tieback wire, if you don't know what this is please look here .... actually look here anyways.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation

The issue with a broken tieback wire is that you can repair/replace your 8 driver PCB, but if this wire is broken the drive transistors will blow immediately after your repair due to the excessive flyback voltage from the games coils hitting the transistor like a sledge hammer when their field collapses.

This is what F103 Powers:
pasted_image (resized).png

With no tieback voltage to dissipate the coils flyback voltage all of the 4 transistors highlight in the image below are suspected failures:
pasted_image (resized).png

NOTE, this may also cause the coils to melt.

If you want to confirm this is the problem, simply remove J4 from the 8-Driver board and turn the machine on; F103 should not blow.

#3178 1 hour ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This could be bad as you may have a broken tieback wire, if you don't know what this is please look here .... actually look here anyways.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation
The issue with a broken tieback wire is that you can repair/replace your 8 driver PCB, but if this wire is broken the drive transistors will blow immediately after your repair due to the excessive flyback voltage from the games coils hitting the transistor like a sledge hammer when their field collapses.
This is what F103 Powers:
[quoted image]
With no tieback voltage to dissipate the coils flyback voltage all of the 4 transistors highlight in the image below are suspected failures:
[quoted image]
NOTE, this may also cause the coils to melt.
If you want to confirm this is the problem, simply remove J4 from the 8-Driver board and turn the machine on; F103 should not blow.

I have 1 10ga wire soldered to the coil lug and the 3 violet wires soldered to the other end and covered with heat shrink to avoid the tie back issue.

Once my fuses show up on Thursday, I’ll be able to begin troubleshooting again. Thanks again for the assistance

#3179 30 minutes ago

Damn game. I finished dialing mine in tonight and it’s an #@;$,! kicker. I think the wife and I both prefer it over WOZ. Perhaps it’s the relative simplicity. Dunno, but STTNG holds its own against most any game out there, including TZ which is my favorite.

Is it just me, or do modern games consistently fall short of STTNG? Maybe I just need to spend more time on one, but I’ve yet to find anything modern that felt comparable...

#3180 30 minutes ago

Well new trough boards, new driver board and my game is still acting up after a bit. It just loses track of balls and starts not seeing a drain or spitting out an extra ball from the lock.
My 10 opto board is my best guess. ugh.

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