(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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#3001 4 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

He hasn't actually ordered it apparently but will likely order from Pinball Heaven in the UK. It's around $25 before shipping. Marco seems to also sell it but they want $50. The only downside is there are 2 color substitutions on the one Pinball Heaven makes which kinda sucks but I have no idea where to source the wire to make it myself. Even if I did that it would cost way more than that in materials to do it.
https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/star-trek-tng/cannon-looms-for-star-trek-tng-h-17067/
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-17067

You can get all sorts of wire colors at Bay Area Amusements. They have 18 and 22 Gauge. Search HA-30018 or HA-30022

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH

That being said, buying 8 different colors at $2.25 is not much cheaper but you should have enough wire to make a couple sets.

#3002 4 years ago
Quoted from pinball_ric:

I have no idea where to source the wire to make it myself.

Just use any stranded wire CAT5E or 6 patch cable...

50' - 8 conductor ... $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E8CEGI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

You can easily make 15 pairs of cannon looms ... roughly 3 for $1

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#3003 4 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Followed the steps in the pinwiki document, which seem to suggest the issue is off-board as there is no AC voltage at J120/J121. I've confirmed this by swapping driver boards with no change. Unfortunately pinwiki speaks a lot about on-board issues, but not too much about off-board.
Some of the GI kinda work; they aren't very bright but they do light. Examples would be the rollover GIs and the shield GIs. Does anyone have any ideas of how almost all of the GIs would spontaneously stop working all at the same time, and it doesn't appear to be aboard issue?
How would I go about checking the transformer 6.3 VAC?

Bump, any help would be great.

#3004 4 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Does anyone have any ideas of how almost all of the GIs would spontaneously stop working all at the same time, and it doesn't appear to be aboard issue?

How would I go about checking the transformer 6.3 VAC?

The only non-board issue that would cause this is your lighting connectors or transformer. You check the transformer in exactly the same manner as you checked the 6.3VAC to the power board, just at the other end of the cable.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

1)Turn off the game

2) disconnect the lighting connector from the transformer. Note: one side of the transformer has yellow wires, the other has Yellow-White wires
DSC00628 (resized).JPGDSC00628 (resized).JPG

You can ohm these out, but what fun is that...

3) Inspect the connector on both sides, if burned or corroded replace the connector.
Lighting Pins (resized).jpgLighting Pins (resized).jpg
Transformer Pins (resized).jpgTransformer Pins (resized).jpg

4) Set your meter to AC Volts and measure the voltage from the transformer by putting one lead in each side of the lighting secondary...I chose 9 and 7 because they were the easiest to get on.

5) Turn game on
DSC00630 (resized).JPGDSC00630 (resized).JPG

You should measure around 8VAC with no load applied.

#3005 4 years ago

Pin_guy beat me to it in far more detail.

#3006 4 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Pin_guy beat me to it in far more detail.

#3007 4 years ago

Why 7 and 9? per the schematic 7 is White-Yellow and 9 is Orange. Shouldn't it be 4 and 9? Or 7 and 5?

#3008 4 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Why 7 and 9? per the schematic 7 is White-Yellow and 9 is Orange. Shouldn't it be 4 and 9? Or 7 and 5?

You are looking at the wrong side; ALL of these wires are yellow not white (one side of the secondary winding has white stripes). You have to measure across the secondary winding, consult the wiring diagram in the WPS schematic I attached. One side of the winding connects to pins 1, 4, and 7. the other side connects tp pins 3, 6, 9, 5.

You can use any combination you like 1-3, 1-6, 1-9, 1-5, 4-3, 4,6, 4-9, 4-5, 7-3, 7-6, 7-9, or 7-5; like I said I measured 7-9 as they were easiest since they were on top.

#3010 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Hmmmm...I wonder if I can make a special 3 connector ribbon cable to simultaneously drive ColorDMD LED and LCD displays for a side-by-side comparison.

Why yes, yes I can!

The results is I was able to clearly see that the Color LED is the clear winner for STTNG and everyone that has seen these two displays running at the same time agreed that the colors of the were more vibrant than the LCR, which looked washed out by comparison. I did my best to attempt to capture the ColorDMD LED display, but the way cameras adjust for changing brightness and contrast the video lack the "WOW factor" you get from seeing the actual display.

Anyways, here's the video link; if you are looking at this upgrade for your machine, either display is a great enhancement, but I highly recommencement the LED and its a little cheaper as well which in this case is a win-win.

The LED version is on top with the LCD (Large DOTS) on the bottom; this is a 2GB 16min long video that contains nearly every video image in the game, I hope you enjoy it.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TxcL19w5B5pTPhWWjX3OIj1VY0GFL82E

#3011 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

You are looking at the wrong side; ALL of these wires are yellow not white (one side of the secondary winding has white stripes). You have to measure across the secondary winding, consult the wiring diagram in the WPS schematic I attached. One side of the winding connects to pins 1, 4, and 7. the other side connects tp pins 3, 6, 9, 5.
You can use any combination you like 1-3, 1-6, 1-9, 1-5, 4-3, 4,6, 4-9, 4-5, 7-3, 7-6, 7-9, or 7-5; like I said I measured 7-9 as they were easiest since they were on top.

All right, made some progress. At least its not the transformer. I got most of the GI working, but nothing on the purple wire works. Testing at J120/J121 gets 0V AC on purple, where all the others now are at 6.8V. F106 tests okay, so the search continues.

#3012 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Why yes, yes I can!
The results is I was able to clearly see that the Color LED is the clear winner for STTNG and everyone that has seen these two displays running at the same time agreed that the colors of the were more vibrant than the LCR, which looked washed out by comparison. I did my best to attempt to capture the ColorDMD LED display, but the way cameras adjust for changing brightness and contrast the video lack the "WOW factor" you get from seeing the actual display.
Anyways, here's the video link; if you are looking at this upgrade for your machine, either display is a great enhancement, but I highly recommencement the LED and its a little cheaper as well which in this case is a win-win.
The LED version is on top with the LCD (Large DOTS) on the bottom; this is a 2GB 16min long video that contains nearly every video image in the game, I hope you enjoy it.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TxcL19w5B5pTPhWWjX3OIj1VY0GFL82E

Thx for doing this!

#3013 4 years ago

Appreciate the effort... but I don't think the LED looks better than the LCD.
Given you've put the camera at an angle; makes me suspect that the LED is just too bright.
Furthermore; What you haven't mentioned is that with the LED; you don't have the option of selecting different dot styles at tall. It's one and done. If you don't like the LED "dots" - too bad... your stuck with it.
STNG was the first LCD ColorDMD I purchased. I'm happy with my purchase and this video comparison really doesn't change that decision.

#3014 4 years ago

Hi everyone, I just picked up an STTNG yesterday! So pumped to have a pin in the house again.

It was dirty on top of the playfield and the cabinet is beat up, but under the playfield is spotless. There’s almost no black coil dust anywhere to be found.

It hasn’t been played in years because the “ball needed to be calibrated”.

I’m having trouble with the playfield rail/latch assembly. Judging by the inside of the cabinet, I’m not the first person to have this problem.

I can’t get the playfield to lock in the upright position. I had a HSII, and am using the same technique.

Let me know if you can tell what’s going on from the pics. Thanks in advance for any assistance you could provide.

714B367B-95AC-402F-945E-0B41AB4AA3C2 (resized).jpeg714B367B-95AC-402F-945E-0B41AB4AA3C2 (resized).jpegC969AB7D-7679-4A32-91A9-B59A3D4409D7 (resized).jpegC969AB7D-7679-4A32-91A9-B59A3D4409D7 (resized).jpegB342D78D-B05E-4A6F-AD8F-72AB3AB73DFA (resized).jpegB342D78D-B05E-4A6F-AD8F-72AB3AB73DFA (resized).jpegC52D11E7-2F84-499C-A72C-C4EB731A5C2F (resized).jpegC52D11E7-2F84-499C-A72C-C4EB731A5C2F (resized).jpeg
#3015 4 years ago

I’m finally getting back to my STTNG rebuild. This mornings fun was the “missing” pop bumper cap. I used the template from this website (thanks!!):
https://www.planetimming.com/Pinball/sttng_pop_bumper/sttng_pop_bumper.html

I couldn’t find my hack saw so I used a coping saw. It worked out fine. Then I used some fine sandpaper to clean up the edges. Next I used a dremel to put the bevel on it, and once again cleaned things up with fine sandpaper. Finally some Nouvs #2 to polish it up.

I’m happy with how it turned. Hopefully it doesn’t interfere with the ramp.

4A23AC26-D78F-43D2-A00D-8AE5A5B08115 (resized).jpeg4A23AC26-D78F-43D2-A00D-8AE5A5B08115 (resized).jpeg8235D82D-87F8-4DEC-B62D-C74E8FDB683B (resized).jpeg8235D82D-87F8-4DEC-B62D-C74E8FDB683B (resized).jpeg799BB628-6B51-47F6-8B9D-589DE977FF22 (resized).jpeg799BB628-6B51-47F6-8B9D-589DE977FF22 (resized).jpeg3D684FBE-4751-46C6-8F33-0C0C5271B6F9 (resized).jpeg3D684FBE-4751-46C6-8F33-0C0C5271B6F9 (resized).jpeg8AC8C5C3-5A15-4196-A55A-464B4D332EAD (resized).jpeg8AC8C5C3-5A15-4196-A55A-464B4D332EAD (resized).jpeg
#3016 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Why yes, yes I can!
The results is I was able to clearly see that the Color LED is the clear winner for STTNG and everyone that has seen these two displays running at the same time agreed that the colors of the were more vibrant than the LCR, which looked washed out by comparison. I did my best to attempt to capture the ColorDMD LED display, but the way cameras adjust for changing brightness and contrast the video lack the "WOW factor" you get from seeing the actual display.
Anyways, here's the video link; if you are looking at this upgrade for your machine, either display is a great enhancement, but I highly recommencement the LED and its a little cheaper as well which in this case is a win-win.
The LED version is on top with the LCD (Large DOTS) on the bottom; this is a 2GB 16min long video that contains nearly every video image in the game, I hope you enjoy it.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TxcL19w5B5pTPhWWjX3OIj1VY0GFL82E

Pretty amazing.... now I want the LED one.....could put the LCD into my LAH

#3017 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I don't think the LED looks better than the LCD.

I know, the video is unable to capture the vibrance and clarity of the LED over the LCD; this is why there is few videos available that attempt to capture this.

Quoted from Zitt:

Given you've put the camera at an angle; makes me suspect that the LED is just too bright.

or... I couldn't play the machine if there was a tripod in front of it, so had to side shift it.

Quoted from Zitt:

What you haven't mentioned is that with the LED; you don't have the option of selecting different dot styles at tall.

I made the assumption that anyone trying to decide between an LED or LCD would already know this.

Quoted from Zitt:

STNG was the first LCD ColorDMD I purchased. I'm happy with my purchase and this video comparison really doesn't change that decision

This was also my first color LCD purchase and the video wouldn't have changed my mind either; I'll see if I can play with camera settings and grab some still images with the camera in front if the displays; if anyone out there knows whatmanual camera settings you need to photograph lighting, please let me know.

It's pinball playing time!

#3018 4 years ago

Pin_Guy,
Sorry; that must have come across as criticism when it wasn't intended to be. I appreciate that you did video the two.
I'm sure there are some people out there that will as well as it will help them to decide.

Good job. Thumbs up!

Quoted from Pinless:

Let me know if you can tell what’s going on from the pics. Thanks in advance for any assistance you could provide.

I'm about 90% sure that hinge on the bottom "shelf" is suppose to be attached to the double standoff bracket above.
My game is still wrapped up from Pinball show; so I can't grab a shot of it myself. maybe someone else can.

Quoted from PinJim:

. This mornings fun was the “missing” pop bumper cap. I used the template from this website (thanks!!)

But... But... What about my popcaps? They come pre-cut to fit under that ramp. ;D

#3019 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

But... But... What about my popcaps? The come pre-cut to fit under that ramp. ;D

What, you can’t make them yourself?

#3021 4 years ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

All right, made some progress. At least its not the transformer. I got most of the GI working, but nothing on the purple wire works. Testing at J120/J121 gets 0V AC on purple, where all the others now are at 6.8V. F106 tests okay, so the search continues.

okay...so you are placing one lead on J120/J121-6 or J120/J121-11 ? where is the other lead?

Please measure between J121-6 and J121- 11 if its good there playfield issue, if not...board issue.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#3022 4 years ago

HOLY $#!+ ... Look what I just found on ebay!

If you do any type of board work on WPC games, you will immediately know what this is and where it goes

ebay.com link: itm
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

EDIT: Even with shipping added this is < 0.31 each If I had any spare time I would buy all of these and relist them with the WPC part numbers for this and the matching connector for $5/pair

#3023 4 years ago

So, where do they go? The dmd?

#3024 4 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

So, where do they go? The dmd?

This is the trough photo transistor board connector.

#3025 4 years ago

Where are these 2 plugs supposed to plug into?

8DC5F8DF-7AA1-4ADB-BF90-74DB9542DEC9 (resized).jpeg8DC5F8DF-7AA1-4ADB-BF90-74DB9542DEC9 (resized).jpeg
#3026 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

okay...so you are placing one lead on J120/J121-6 or J120/J121-11 ? where is the other lead?
Please measure between J121-6 and J121- 11 if its good there playfield issue, if not...board issue.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Nevermind, I found the problem.

#3027 4 years ago

I noticed that the little plastic wall that goes up and down in front of the lock on my machine does not always sit flush with the playfield. It tends to cause issues with the ball sometimes not locking or going into the hole when things like probe launch are selected. I assumed this needed to be adjusted so it will sit flush with the playfield every time when it is down but just wanted to check and make sure.

#3028 4 years ago
Quoted from PantherCityPins:

I noticed that the little plastic wall that goes up and down in front of the lock on my machine does not always sit flush with the playfield. It tends to cause issues with the ball sometimes not locking or going into the hole when things like probe launch are selected. I assumed this needed to be adjusted so it will sit flush with the playfield every time when it is down but just wanted to check and make sure.

Yep. Easy to adjust. Just search for wpc drop target adjustment. If I remember correctly, this mechanism is where the tieback comes into play, so be aware. I'd double-check your machine to be sure it's been done. http://www.pinballrevolution.com/threads/13-sttng-tie-back-mod-best-way.3954/

#3029 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Hi everyone, I just picked up an STTNG yesterday! So pumped to have a pin in the house again.
It was dirty on top of the playfield and the cabinet is beat up, but under the playfield is spotless. There’s almost no black coil dust anywhere to be found.
It hasn’t been played in years because the “ball needed to be calibrated”.
I’m having trouble with the playfield rail/latch assembly. Judging by the inside of the cabinet, I’m not the first person to have this problem.
I can’t get the playfield to lock in the upright position. I had a HSII, and am using the same technique.
Let me know if you can tell what’s going on from the pics. Thanks in advance for any assistance you could provide.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm assuming you've found the answer to your question by now but if not - the bracket should not be hitting / sitting on the wood like that. Someone disconnected the PF from the slide assembly and then never stuck it back on. It should slide up onto that back hinge / post and the arm will snap in to prevent it from going down and hitting the wood rail. There are some good pictures and instructions in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-remove-entire-playfield

In my opinion this is by far the best playfield slide / service position system ever put into a production pinball machine and I wish JJP, AP and others would use it.

#3030 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I'm assuming you've found the answer to your question by now but if not - the bracket should not be hitting / sitting on the wood like that. Someone disconnected the PF from the slide assembly and then never stuck it back on. It should slide up onto that back hinge / post and the arm will snap in to prevent it from going down and hitting the wood rail. There are some good pictures and instructions in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-remove-entire-playfield
In my opinion this is by far the best playfield slide / service position system ever put into a production pinball machine and I wish JJP, AP and others would use it.

Thanks for that link, it’s very helpful. I never ran across that one in all of my searches.

I haven’t been able to find any info on this ROM. Should it be reflashed to a newer version for any reason? Any worthwhile updates since 1993?

A5CBE2E1-7D15-4A06-A04F-8C590BEB4D2D (resized).jpegA5CBE2E1-7D15-4A06-A04F-8C590BEB4D2D (resized).jpeg
#3031 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Where are these 2 plugs supposed to plug into?[quoted image]

Dollar + Bill Acceptor.
DBA (resized).pngDBA (resized).png

#3032 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

Thanks for that link, it’s very helpful. I never ran across that one in all of my searches.
I haven’t been able to find any info on this ROM. Should it be reflashed to a newer version for any reason? Any worthwhile updates since 1993?[quoted image]

Looks like it's the latest with the anti ghosting patch. So you're all good.

#3033 4 years ago

I made it to Final Frontier twice in the past couple days, and both times the ball was ended with one ball still in play on the playfield (bonus scoring, etc started running on the display & then game over since it was my 3rd ball). I had this happen when I first got the machine in October and it was an issue with the trough opto board. I had a new board put in and the problem cleared up. I just now tried testing it by clearing out balls and bringing up the switch test. As I dropped all six balls back in, all six trough opto switches seemed to register the balls correctly as they passed through and as they came to rest in the trough. I'd really appreciate any ideas anyone might have on other things to check that might be causing the issue.

#3034 4 years ago

Check for a loose connection on the opto board; may want to repunch the wires into the IDC connector.

#3035 4 years ago

Looking to see other photos of the Advance in Rank/Command Decision board on the playfield. Mine is only attached with one screw, and I can't even get it out to replace the lamps because the board is bent forward so far. It just doesn't look it should be mounted where it is, so I'd really like to see some photos of some other games out there. Thanks....
P1040011 (resized).JPGP1040011 (resized).JPG

#3036 4 years ago
Quoted from k9bm:

Looking to see other photos of the Advance in Rank/Command Decision board on the playfield. Mine is only attached with one screw, and I can't even get it out to replace the lamps because the board is bent forward so far. It just doesn't look it should be mounted where it is, so I'd really like to see some photos of some other games out there. Thanks....
[quoted image]

Mine is exactly the same way....it does seem wrong.

#3037 4 years ago

I wonder if this hack led to the fried coils which kept the diverters from working properly:

52A4AB74-A478-4CCB-9D47-F6F585439C6A (resized).jpeg52A4AB74-A478-4CCB-9D47-F6F585439C6A (resized).jpeg956F41ED-7B9C-4C91-922E-B086028CE37A (resized).jpeg956F41ED-7B9C-4C91-922E-B086028CE37A (resized).jpeg
#3038 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

I wonder if this hack led to the fried coils which kept the diverters from working properly:[quoted image][quoted image]

Not really a hack, just one of the ways to repair burned or traces lifted when that transistor was replaced.

Whenever you replace a transistor on these or any board with suppression diodes installed on the board, do yourself a favor and replace the corresponding diode at the same time as the transistor.

#3039 4 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Not really a hack, just one of the ways to repair burned or traces lifted when that transistor was replaced.
Whenever you replace a transistor on these or any board with suppression diodes installed on the board, do yourself a favor and replace the corresponding diode at the same time as the transistor.

If the infamous small green/purple wire associated with the tie-back mod did not lose connection, what else could cause issues with the aux driver board and fried diverter coils?

#3040 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinless:

If the infamous small green/purple wire associated with the tie-back mod did not lose connection, what else could cause issues with the aux driver board and fried diverter coils?

Bad suppression diode, failing coil, code glitch (locking the coil on too long)...

#3041 4 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Bad suppression diode, failing coil, code glitch (locking the coil on too long)...

Thanks for the info. I’ve got enough parts coming to hopefully prevent any of those issues.

#3042 4 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Not really a hack, just one of the ways to repair burned or traces lifted when that transistor was replaced.

not really, this is a hack repair as there is the right way to repair a board and then there is this way; that being said, this was still not likely caused by the repair to the board, but a failure of the repair "technician" to realize that the blown transistor was a symptom of the problem and not the cause.

#3043 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Check for a loose connection on the opto board; may want to repunch the wires into the IDC connector.

Thank you very much for the advice. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to try it yet but I will. I did play a quick game last night and again made it to Final Frontier. This time I was on Ball 2 when I made it there so when the game ended my ball while there was still one in the playfield, I still had Ball 3 to play instead of it being game over. Another symptom then showed up. To start the next ball, it sent two balls immediately (back to back fires of the vuk) into the catapult, so I had two balls in there together. I'm still going to check on what you suggested, but just wondering if this additional symptom of it loading two balls into the launcher back-to-back to start the next ball sheds any more light on what the issue could be. Both balls stayed in play until I entered holodeck mode when the flippers shut down for that to run and the ball still out in play drained, then the ball that started holodeck came back into play again as normal once the video mode was over. Again, thank you very much.

#3044 4 years ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

Another symptom then showed up. To start the next ball, it sent two balls immediately (back to back fires of the vuk) into the catapult, so I had two balls in there together.

This is likely still caused by the same issue as the game is counting X balls in trough + X balls in VUK's = 6, regardless of there being a ball sitting on the catapult lane switch.

#3045 4 years ago

Any tips on removing the subway ramp? I understand it's easier than it looks!

#3046 4 years ago
Quoted from mappy24:

Any tips on removing the subway ramp? I understand it's easier than it looks!

This video helped me out when I first got mine:

#3047 4 years ago

Alright, giving this one more shot: anyone have any idea why my left Canon has slowed only when in "aim and fire" mode and not in reset mode. The Canon normally slows for you to aim, but mine suddenly developed a really, really slow motion for aiming, so much so that is annoying to wait.

I have plans in cracking open the gear box today to clean and grease, but I'm hoping one of you might know of a less invasive and time consuming fix.

Thanks!

#3048 4 years ago

Have you replaced your cannon wiring harnesses? Mine had some inexplicable issues until I replaced mine recently. The original wires twist and bind over time, wearing them out causing for bad connections.

#3049 4 years ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Alright, giving this one more shot: anyone have any idea why my left Canon has slowed only when in "aim and fire" mode and not in reset mode. The Canon normally slows for you to aim, but mine suddenly developed a really, really slow motion for aiming, so much so that is annoying to wait.
I have plans in cracking open the gear box today to clean and grease, but I'm hoping one of you might know of a less invasive and time consuming fix.
Thanks!

Double check the wire isn't being held up by anything. I had this on mine and the wire was tight when it was moving outwards.

#3050 4 years ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

This video helped me out when I first got mine:

Mission accomplished, thanks.

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Eproms
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 95.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Pinball Mod Co.
Sound/Speakers
$ 26.50
6,000
Machine - For Sale
West Chester, PA
From: $ 209.00
$ 29.90
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Haus
Toys/Add-ons
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
Led
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
From: $ 64.95
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
PinSound
Sound/Speakers
$ 49.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 259.99
Cabinet - Toppers
Lighted Pinball Mods
Toppers
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 29.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
Other
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 649.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
6,300
Machine - For Sale
Sanford, NC
$ 250.00
Lighting - Interactive
Professor Pinball
Interactive
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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