(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

6 years ago



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#2801 11 months ago

Which opto?....

Hi STTNG fans. Logic question for the group. Which opto do you predict is failing in the following situation: upon boot up, the catapult launches a ball and goes into the trough, and then the left in lane ball popper pops a ball to left drain line. The cycle repeats over and over. It’s like the normal ball reset procedure but it just happens over and over...

Is it possible to predict which Opto is the culprit?

#2802 11 months ago
Quoted from holminone:

Which opto?....
Hi STTNG fans. Logic question for the group. Which opto do you predict is failing in the following situation: upon boot up, the catapult launches a ball and goes into the trough, and then the left in lane ball popper pops a ball to left drain line. The cycle repeats over and over. It’s like the normal ball reset procedure but it just happens over and over...
Is it possible to predict which Opto is the culprit?

If you have a meter go to Post #2768 on here and it will tell you how to check.

#2803 11 months ago
Quoted from meSz:

If you have a meter go to Post #2768 on here and it will tell you how to check.

For future reference, the post number is itself a link to the post. In this case: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/56#post-4871707

#2804 11 months ago
Quoted from holminone:

Which opto?....
Hi STTNG fans. Logic question for the group. Which opto do you predict is failing in the following situation: upon boot up, the catapult launches a ball and goes into the trough, and then the left in lane ball popper pops a ball to left drain line. The cycle repeats over and over. It’s like the normal ball reset procedure but it just happens over and over...
Is it possible to predict which Opto is the culprit?

If there are no other balls loaded, it sounds like a diverter issue to me. It should load the right cannon first. If the diverter doesn't kick it over it ends up in the left lane vuk. After recognizing it didn't load correctly the game ejects it and tries again (and again and again...).

#2805 11 months ago
Quoted from TimBoch:

I put small nylon spacers to raise the clear plastic up slightly to keep the ball from impacting the plastic as the ball goes up the ramp. Seems to work well.[quoted image][quoted image]

I think I'll try that and it should work.....THANK YOU. I noticed mine had a similar sized spaced in the back left and I've saw a few others since and all had the same spacer in the back left. Adding the 2 in the front should work.

#2806 11 months ago
Quoted from holminone:

Which opto?....

Hi STTNG fans. Logic question for the group. Which opto do you predict is failing in the following situation: upon boot up, the catapult launches a ball and goes into the trough, and then the left in lane ball popper pops a ball to left drain line. The cycle repeats over and over. It’s like the normal ball reset procedure but it just happens over and over...

Is it possible to predict which Opto is the culprit?

This is more than likely a subway diverter issue and not an opto problem. Its super easy to figure out if its an opto problem, first remove all balls, then go into switch edge test and and drop a ball into each of the 3 VUKs one at a time...if all 3 register this is definitely not opto related,; drop the remaining 3 balls into the trough and when you leave diagnostic mode, you will also see the ball launch behavior has stopped as all three staged balls are loaded.

#2807 11 months ago

Had some problems with my color DMD lately. It sometimes start showing white and distorted graphics only. Used to be that I could turn the pin off and back on and it was all goo, but since today, it will stay white and some lines missing, other doubled up.
I reset all ribbon cables, but that did not fix it. I also found out, that once I go into the DMD menue, the display is fine, just not in the actual game. Any chance the display chip is going bad?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

20190316_212411 (resized).jpg
#2808 11 months ago
Quoted from StrangeSubset1:

Had some problems with my color DMD lately. It sometimes start showing white and distorted graphics only. Used to be that I could turn the pin off and back on and it was all goo, but since today, it will stay white and some lines missing, other doubled up.
I reset all ribbon cables, but that did not fix it. I also found out, that once I go into the DMD menue, the display is fine, just not in the actual game. Any chance the display chip is going bad?
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
[quoted image]

Reseat the chips. That always fixes this issue for me.

#2809 11 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Reseat the chips. That always fixes this issue for me.

Seems to be working for now.....

#2810 11 months ago

Hey Pin_Guy, I'm wondering if you might know anything about a strange cannon issue that I've had since I obtained my STTNG. The canon plungers (particulary the left) sticks "on", meaning that when it fires for the test on boot, it stays sticking out. I have to slam tilt multiple times until it stops sticking open. It almost feels like a ground issue or something, as it stops after a while. After I get it to stop sticking, it works fine until reboot. Any ideas?

#2811 11 months ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

The canon plungers (particulary the left) sticks "on"

Mine does this too and the fact that you can bang it to make it reset means it a mechanical issue. The plunger is binding somewhere and I tried many times to readjust and I also replaced the plunger but it still happens intermittently.

#2812 11 months ago

I just finished pulling it apart and stretched out the spring. Problem seems to be gone. I'll report back if it starts sticking again, but I'm getting zero sticks when I usually get quite a few.

#2813 11 months ago

It’s not a spring issue. If you look at the coil retention bracket, you will see a dimple or circle where the plunger has damaged it from use. The edge of the plunger actually hangs up on the bracket. You can either replace the braclet or file it down a bit if it’s not that deep.

#2814 11 months ago

The drop wasn't resetting cleanly. Had a look and the single finger was bent down around 20 degrees. Have straightened it back up, but I assume it'll just flex again. Common issue? Any fixes?

pasted_image (resized).png

#2815 11 months ago

I have cut out a sturdy one from metal. Pretty easy to do since it's a straight forward simple design.

#2816 11 months ago

I mentioned an interference problem between the beta ramp and pop bumper when I was evaluating my new game; I checked the ramp install and the pop assembly and both seem to be mounted correctly. My only other thought is to add some shims under the PF to lower the pop down a bit. Any thoughts welcome.

20190310_161345 (resized).jpg20190310_161359 (resized).jpg

#2817 11 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

I mentioned an interference problem between the beta ramp and pop bumper when I was evaluating my new game; I checked the ramp install and the pop assembly and both seem to be mounted correctly. My only other thought is to add some shims under the PF to lower the pop down a bit. Any thoughts welcome.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Grind 1/8" off that side of the pop housing and metal pop ring?

#2818 11 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Grind 1/8" off that side of the pop housing and metal pop ring?

Yeah I think I like your idea better. Dropping the whole assembly down runs the risk of altering the spoon switch triggering properly. Thanks for the suggestion.

#2819 11 months ago

I finally got STTNG home yesterday and it wouldn't boot. Luckily we have a pinball shop fairly close so I grabbed a new Rottendog MPU and a couple of other mods while I was there.

I moved the ROMs, CPU and added NVRAM and it booted right up. While I had the backbox open, I installed an LCD ColorDMD, set to DotsXL. My question to the group, what has the community done to deal with the upper part of the LCD panel blocking part of the translite? The two options that came to mind were physically moving it lower(don't think I can) or removing the bulbs that are now blocked. Thanks.

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#2820 11 months ago
Quoted from Tallon:

It’s not a spring issue. If you look at the coil retention bracket, you will see a dimple or circle where the plunger has damaged it from use. The edge of the plunger actually hangs up on the bracket. You can either replace the braclet or file it down a bit if it’s not that deep.

Interesting. The spring tension has fixed it for now. I’ll look at the bracket when it inevitably returns.

My right canon is now very slow when lining up shots, but after I fire, it goes back to normal speed. I know it’s supposed to be slower during shots, but it is now very slow—I’d say half the speed of what it used to slow down to. Still functional but annoying. Any ideas? The right canon is fine.

#2821 11 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

My question to the group, what has the community done to deal with the upper part of the LCD panel blocking part of the translite?

Nothing, no part of this should block any of the translight and the light board should open freely.

pasted_image (resized).png
#2822 11 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Nothing, no part of this should block any of the translight and the light board should open freely.[quoted image]

To really foul things up requires an engineer.. Of course I mounted like my other games and didn't RTFM. Needless to say, it's now fixed.

Now to look into why my left cannon is hopping on power up.

#2823 11 months ago
Quoted from RobF:

My only other thought is to add some shims under the PF to lower the pop down a bit. Any thoughts welcome.

My ramp is moved forward a little bit to make room for that problem.

#2824 11 months ago

Alrighty.. I've got Color DMD, LED OCD, GI OCD, Laser Cannons, Flipper Fidelity Speakers and I'm considering what to do next.

What mirror blades are y'all using? There are a few out there and some have screw holes, some tape and I'm curious as to the preferred brand and installation method.

#2825 11 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Alrighty.. I've got Color DMD, LED OCD, GI OCD, Laser Cannons, Flipper Fidelity Speakers and I'm considering what to do next.
What mirror blades are y'all using? There are a few out there and some have screw holes, some tape and I'm curious as to the preferred brand and installation method.

pinsound with stereo , its awesome in sttng .

#2826 11 months ago

My STTNG is having some troubling opto issues, causing balls to be launched randomly in the game. So far, I've replaced opto boards, had the main opto board serviced, and replaced a handful of optos on the game. No luck on that end. What is happening in switch test mode, if I close the coin door and hit the flipper buttons 15 or 20 times, the vibrations will cause a couple of optos to trigger in the same row. Frustrating. Any ideas? Thanks. I'm also gonna post this as a general tech help question.

Mike

#2827 11 months ago

Ok, the problem is a little bigger than I thought- here goes the convoluted description.

Whenever any switch in row 5 is triggered, it triggers multiple switches in that column. For instance, when the left 2x shuttle target is hit (column 8, row 5), the game will also activate (Column 8, row 2) (Column 8, row 6), and (Column 8 row 7). So four switches for every hit to any switch on row 5.

The switch matrix is kinda voodoo to me, but I did test that the problem wasn't on the board by isolating 207/209. Any ideas. I'm pretty lost here.

Quoted from mikeflan:

My STTNG is having some troubling opto issues, causing balls to be launched randomly in the game. So far, I've replaced opto boards, had the main opto board serviced, and replaced a handful of optos on the game. No luck on that end. What is happening in switch test mode, if I close the coin door and hit the flipper buttons 15 or 20 times, the vibrations will cause a couple of optos to trigger in the same row. Frustrating. Any ideas? Thanks. I'm also gonna post this as a general tech help question.
Mike

#2828 11 months ago

Could be a bad IC.
1) check 1N4148
2) check LM339
3) check caps/resistors
if column switches,
1) check ULN-2803
and/or check +12 dc digital and +12 dc power.

#2829 11 months ago
Quoted from mikeflan:

Ok, the problem is a little bigger than I thought- here goes the convoluted description.
Whenever any switch in row 5 is triggered, it triggers multiple switches in that column. For instance, when the left 2x shuttle target is hit (column 8, row 5), the game will also activate (Column 8, row 2) (Column 8, row 6), and (Column 8 row 7). So four switches for every hit to any switch on row 5.
The switch matrix is kinda voodoo to me, but I did test that the problem wasn't on the board by isolating 207/209. Any ideas. I'm pretty lost here.

If the problem is not on the board then it pretty much has to be a bad diode on a switch or a problem with your opto board. Have you made sure the connectors to the trough opto board is solid? Those IDC connectors can get iffy after all this time, try wiggling that connector a little while in switch test mode.

#2830 10 months ago

Question from a dummy who apparently didn't take enough pictures. Where on earth does this plastic piece go? I've scoured photos online and can't find Waldo (except on very blurry one from a mid-teardown that isn't helpful enough).

Screen Shot 2019-04-02 at 1.12.12 PM (resized).png
#2831 10 months ago

My STTNG has had a non-working Romulan flasher for a while. I replaced the ribbon cable, but that made it work for a little and then it stopped again. This past weekend I performed the tie back mod to the 8-driver board using Zaza's method (resistor array + 10k) as mentioned on Pinkwiki (http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation). I looked over the ribbon cable pin connectors with the magnifying glass but they all look good so I didn't touch them up.

The Romulan flasher is now working consistently. I noticed there's a toasted spot in the middle of the board, so I'm wondering if the transistor is running hot/going bad. I'm not looking at a gift horse in the mouth, but would the tie down help a flaky transistor that drives the flasher stay functional?

I'm thinking the smart idea is to probably let it be until it fails again.

STTNG-DriverBoard-Back-TieDownInstall (resized).jpg
#2833 10 months ago

Haha, thank you! Those other posts make me feel better!

#2834 10 months ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

This past weekend I performed the tie back mod to the 8-driver board using Zaza's method

Credits goes to richard_bok , I only made a photoshop of this board with resistor-array and one 10k resistor.
This modification prevents coils/flasher to activate when ribboncable to aux-board has lost contact with cpu-board

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-coil-38-is-always-energized-even-with-a-new-8-board-driver#post-2973924

#2835 10 months ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Question from a dummy who apparently didn't take enough pictures. Where on earth does this plastic piece go? I've scoured photos online and can't find Waldo (except on very blurry one from a mid-teardown that isn't helpful enough).

pasted_image (resized).png
#2836 10 months ago

Anyone have a wall art sttng playfield for sale?

#2837 10 months ago

[nevermind]

#2838 10 months ago

Got a newbie question regarding the General Illumination (GI) on STTNG. I'm looking to replace the poor melted Klingon Bird of Prey with the Hallmark ornament. It seems like the GI wiring can support the new KBOP lights directly (in my brief testing). I did measure the AC voltage at the sockets and its coming in around 3.6VAC with the bulbs in, and 4.0VAX with the bulbs out. I thought it was supposed to be 6.3VAC? Is this normal or am I measuring it wrong?

#2839 10 months ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Got a newbie question regarding the General Illumination (GI) on STTNG. I'm looking to replace the poor melted Klingon Bird of Prey with the Hallmark ornament. It seems like the GI wiring can support the new KBOP lights directly (in my brief testing). I did measure the AC voltage at the sockets and its coming in around 3.6VAC with the bulbs in, and 4.0VAX with the bulbs out. I thought it was supposed to be 6.3VAC? Is this normal or am I measuring it wrong?

Make sure your meter is set to AC.

You measure AC from source to return, not to ground. So one lead on each terminal of the GI socket.

#2840 10 months ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Make sure your meter is set to AC.
You measure AC from source to return, not to ground. So one lead on each terminal of the GI socket.

Yep, that's what I did, it's ~3.6VAC instead of the 6.3 I was expecting.

#2841 10 months ago

The hallmark is not dropin compatible with the gi.
You need current limiting at a min or it will burn out in hours.
There is an RGP thread available from google which talks about the series resistor values.

Yep, that's what I did, it's ~3.6VAC instead of the 6.3 I was expecting.

More than likely, your meter isn't a true RMS meter. Is it a cheapie?
Make sure the GI isn't in "dimming" mode.

If you're looking for a more modern solution; Please see:
http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/stngWingLED

#2842 10 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

The hallmark is not dropin compatible with the gi.
You need current limiting at a min or it will burn out in hours.

I have not seen this to be the case, my BOP is directly wired to the GI and has been for years without issue; prior to wiring it to my machine I measure the AC voltage that was being applied to to the ornament from a set of Christmas tree lights and found the voltage was almost identical to the machines GI voltage.

The wings linked by Zitt look awesome ... I'm just too cheap to buy them.

#2843 10 months ago

Picked up a project STTNG recently. Have some ball trough opt problems. Just order brand new opt for it and installed them and the one is working and the other isn’t. When I first plugged in the inside opt it worked and now it doesn’t.. any thoughts guys..

I am missing a connector on the outside trough so I solder on the wires directly to the board until I get some more connector pins. Any thoughts?

7845C59E-80A3-4B8E-A994-FA6763F9E4BE (resized).jpeg
#2844 10 months ago

Could someone take a picture of their outside connector for me.. not sure if these wires can be solder here..

F2BAB94D-0738-4E3F-8619-BBB653D0E4D0 (resized).jpeg
#2845 10 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

The wings linked by Zitt look awesome ... I'm just too cheap to buy them.

I'm going to give these a try.
https://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm

#2846 10 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I'm going to give these a try.

Zitt's product looks great but I put two of these on my BOP with some colored gels over them (picture is without gels) but I did have to put a resistor in-line because I'm using GI OCDLED. I liked the cost effectiveness and the ability to try different colored gels to suit the game and/or my mood.

https://www.cometpinball.com/6-3-V-Plug-Play-Strips-Comet-Pinball-p/6.3vsmdstrips.htm

IMG_3114 (resized).jpg
#2847 10 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Could someone take a picture of their outside connector for me.. not sure if these wires can be solder here..
[quoted image]

I took these pictures of the optos at the trough on my STTNG. Is this what you're looking for? Hope it helps. I can take a picture at a different angle if you need it.

STTNG Trough Opto 1 (resized).jpgSTTNG Trough Opto 2 (resized).jpg
#2848 10 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

I took these pictures of the optos at the trough on my STTNG. Is this what you're looking for? Hope it helps. I can take a picture at a different angle if you need it.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you! Looks like the grey/yellow wires are attached the first pin together. What pin is the black wire attached to?

#2849 10 months ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thank you! Looks like the grey/yellow wires are attached the first pin together. What pin is the black wire attached to?

No problem. Happy to try to help. Here is another set of pictures of both the small connector and the big connector. I took two pictures of each connector: 1 showing the view from the front as you look from the apron toward it and 1 from behind the connector looking out toward the apron. The black wire for each connector seems to be connected to the third spot from the left as you're looking into the machine from the apron. Let me know if you need any other shots of them.

STTNG Trough Opto - Small Connector Front View (resized).jpgSTTNG Trough Opto - Small Connector Back View (resized).jpgSTTNG Trough Opto - Big Connector Front View (resized).jpgSTTNG Trough Opto - Big Connector Back View (resized).jpg
#2850 10 months ago
Quoted from EaglePin:

No problem. Happy to try to help. Here is another set of pictures of both the small connector and the big connector. I took two pictures of each connector: 1 showing the view from the front as you look from the apron toward it and 1 from behind the connector looking out toward the apron. The black wire for each connector seems to be connected to the third spot from the left as you're looking into the machine from the apron. Let me know if you need any other shots of them.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thank you I see it now. The black wire looks like it's on the third pin..

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