Would anyone be able to scan (or already have access to) a high quality flat image of this section of artwork on the right side of the cabinet? I’m trying to patch this big hole someone drilled in the cabinet... for some reason.

I figure since it’s a clean enough cut that I could print a patch decal.

Also, anyone have any idea WHY someone would cut a hole like this?! The pic shows the incomplete plug I’ve been making to fill the hole.

215AFA0F-C196-4A59-8DDE-3398546B1366 (resized).jpeg

Thank you!!!! I was looking all over Marco's site, for some stupid reason I could not find it, thanks for the link.
As for the switch, how do you even get a ball in that thing up the ramp. Mine never has enough velocity to get all the way there and just drops down the wire ramp. I am wondering if my ramp is warped (no pun intended).

If your game can't make that shot and it's clean overall I'd suggest that a rebuild of the upper flipper may be in order. It is not an easy shot and hitting it clean enough to make the Borg lock when lit is even harder but it certainly should be makeable.

This is the single most difficult shot to make in this game. This could be a lack of power from the flipper, but there is a ball diverter that actuates when the Borg lock isn't lit that can cause some issues; if this diverter doesn't retract properly due to gummed up grease, broken return spring, misalignment, etc... it will kill the balls momentum and you will never be able to make this shot.

I guess I'll just have to pay more attention, might just not be lit when I made it.
I got my first billion last night. Actually 1,875,000....got lucky on the Borg jackpot. Got quadruple jackpot. But still did not make the ramp up into the Borg ship ‍♀️

Looking for the main lamp board for STTNG as well as the complete subway assembly. Lets hope someone has these for sale!

Finally took some more images. Including the areas that got messed up, but you cannot see them when it is installed on the head.

20190223_162323 (resized).jpg

20190223_161722 (resized).jpg

20190223_161731 (resized).jpg

20190223_161746 (resized).jpg

20190223_161802 (resized).jpg

20190223_161819 (resized).jpg

20190223_162312 (resized).jpg

20190210_181421 (resized).jpg

Hi, I picked up an STTNG last week and the right cannon suddenly stopped working, it could be moved freely by hand.

Looking under the playfield I can see that the right cannon has a different screw to the left one. Tightening this screw fixed the issue but does anyone know what part number screw should be in here?

IMG_20190224_210100 (resized).jpg

Yes, after performing a "better than new" factory condition restoration of my machine and every assembly in it, I literally know every single part in the machine down to the most minute detail.

I can tell you at first glace the screws and self locking nut were never meant to be in this assembly...

EDIT: I linked the wrong parts information initially, I have a more detailed parts breakdown that lists every part that was used in every assembly, I'll try to dig it up but it could take me a bit to find it.

I believe the screw and washer are the same as used to connect the motor shaft to the plate, but without the proper reference material I can't guarantee it.
Screws: MS 8-32 x 3/8 PL-HH-S (4008-01168-06) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4008-01168-06
Washers: FW .203 x.625 x .059 (4700-00023-00) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00023-00

pasted_image (resized).png

I'll wait for your expert knowledge, thanks in advance!

Ok, since this is the screw that mounts the upper cannon assembly to the lower bracket assembly, this part could be listed as part of either assembly...or neither and fell through the cracks. I don't want to leave you hanging so here are the complete parts listing for both assemblies (NOTE With the exception of the bracker, Right and left assemblies share the same parts list) only the Right side assemblies are listed here:
Gun Assembly:
pasted_image (resized).png
Bracket Assembly
pasted_image (resized).png

Fantastic, thank you!

I honestly believe these are the parts you need, but I cant prove it.

Screws: MS 8-32 x 3/8 PL-HH-S (4008-01168-06) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4008-01168-06
Washers: FW .203 x.625 x .059 (4700-00023-00) https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4700-00023-00

Who sells those extended outlanes for this game?

Only Pinbits has these, but they are sold out ATM:
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=306

Thanks for that information- anyone have a used set they wish to part with?

I have a refurbished Pinball.Center set of stainless steel extended ball guides if you're interested.
Send me PM.

got mine from pinball centre a month ago

I stand corrected. Pinball Center (I never heard of them before) does have them, and they are in stock

Greetings to all STTNG enthusiasts.

I present you my STTNG Xingothx's Edition, in progress which will be a unique model, since I myself realized all the parts and decals personalized, with stainless steel parts brushed effect.

If you want to know more, everything is described here (french forum):

http://www.neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=44484&start=2875#p1210822

http://www.neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=44484&start=2925#p1235340

LkzxRR (resized).jpg

gBaxXQ (resized).jpg

hHrlLT (resized).jpg

BtfYR0 (resized).jpg

W7Prju (resized).jpg

jRVali (resized).jpg

ZuJbu6 (resized).jpg

wrZpo3 (resized).jpg

NVw8Gt (resized).jpg

hXePl4 (resized).jpg

m3ECF2 (resized).jpg

6JpRxx (resized).jpg

it is not for sale, unique copy

All parts of my STTNG Wips' s link, are at the bottom of this thread:

http://www.neo-arcadia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=44484&start=2875#p1202921

Great work! I like it.
I am working on similar mods.
Speaker panel is finished. Next will be apron with integrated Display.

IMG_20190202_184507 (resized).jpg

great work to

Has anyone put an NVRAM in their game? Do you have to solder in a new socket/chip or does the RAM pull out?

I have...
Original
pasted_image (resized).png

Removed
pasted_image (resized).png

Running Board with original RAM now socketed
pasted_image (resized).png

On the original CPU the RAM was soldered in, if you have an aftermarket board it's likely socketed. Just toss in AA Lithium batteries in the holder and don't worry about it...if you cant help but worry...I will socket your board, install NVRAM, and give you a lifetime guarantee on this work for $50 +shipping. Keep in mind this conversion makes your RTC (Real Time Clock) function as an hour meter counting run hours from 01/01/70...it's up to you if this is a gain or loss in functionality.

IME they are rarely socketed. Between my and my friend's, I have installed NVRAM in probably 15 games. Not 1 was socketed.

WPC era MPU boards have tiny traces that are very close together which makes removing the RAM tricky without damaging traces around the pads of the RAM. I would not attempt socketing this board unless you have lots of experience.

If you want the clock to stay accurate or don't know someone that can socket your board, the lithium batteries are a great option.

The left outlane kickback feature doesn't always successfully return the ball into play (will just drain anyway) and other times it will work but it can take 2 or 3 kicks to successfully return the ball. Is this a timing issue or should I just replace the coil even though it seems strong in test mode?

Bookmarked. It doesn't happen a lot on my machine, but if the ball exits at high speed my return will occasionally fire too late.

take it out of the game clean it, replace the coil stop and sleeve then make sure everything is tight. when you put it back in the machine make sure it is properly aligned so the plunger doesnt hit the ball guide and you should be good to go. Coils rarely fail, and when they do, you can usually tell as the sleeve is melted or the coil winding is broken and it doesn't fire. If you want to verify the coil, its an AE-23-800 so should measure 4.1 ohms across the windings.

Exploded View:
1117 (resized).JPG

Assembled:
1118 (resized).JPG

Installed:

pasted_image (resized).png

In addition to what @pin_guy said, the timing of the kickback can be adjusted by tweaking when exactly the switch closes as it goes over the outlane switch. It is a tricky adjustment as you need to find the balance where it works for fast AND slow moving balls.

Slightly bend the switch wire up or down to make timing adjustments. Remember, the enemy of good is better.

Thanks, I'll check out all of the above!

The kickback issue has been demoted to priority 2 as I seem to now have an issue with opto switch 47 (under borg hole) becoming stuck open. I first noticed it during multiball when the machine was handing out multiple jackpots and then continuously starting modes afterwards.

In the single switch test, 47 was stuck open and obstructing the beam made no difference, I've wiggled wires on the opto boards, cleaned them and reflowed the solder and I thought I had fixed it, but it's started doing it again. I understand this is quite a common fault! Should I replace the optos in the subway next?

Edit: It’s occurred to me that while I was wiggling wires on the little opto PCB’s and the backbox connector (that I thought was the right thing to do!) I forgot that there is a 16opto board somewhere that all these switches connect back to? I’ll check out the connectors on that board later in case there is a loose connection. Any other troubleshooting suggestions gratefully received though! Still getting familiar with this machine....

Anyone? Please? Even just a high quality pic? PM me please!

4efe35820687bc6715375233bafa5281b109f36c.jpeg (resized).jpg

The right side of my cabinet is up against the wall, but if no one else delivers within a few hours I'll pull it out and take a pic!

This any good to you??

IMG_20190301_191647 (resized).jpg

Much appreciated! I'll give it a shot and report back.

I might be able to get access to a handheld scanner on Monday if you can wait, not sure how well it will work with all the black but can give it a go if you want?

I can pull out my HP 4670 scanner over the weekend to get you a decent scan.

Thanks BriPin and mappy24

That first pic has a little flare that's making it difficult to print and my photo editing skills just aren't high enough. A scan would be stellar.

play_pinball Here you go. You don't realize how bad your cab is until you scan it and zoom to 100% So it could use some touch up. PM me with your email address so I can send the full scan. I also scanned it in 600 DPI which may be overkill but I wanted to see my dings in even higher resolution

STTNG 300 DPI.jpg

play_pinball is my brother. I don't think he saw this before he went to sleep so I PM'd you his email address.

Going to need some some pointers with opto #47 under borg hole.

It was working fine last night, so I tried wiggling the connectors on the 16opto board, I've also disconnected and reseated all the connectors but I couldn't find any problems there.

Prior to this, I've removed, cleaned and reflowed the solder on the little opto boards.

So I figured that all was well and had a few games.

Later last night, I went into the single switch test and noticed that #47 was stuck open again, blocking the opto with a piece of paper did nothing.

I wiggled lots of wires around the area but no joy....until suddenly the switch started working again for no apparent reason.

I'm thinking next time this happens, get a camera on the opto to check for signs of life? Or a multimeter to check voltages.

I thought I might try swapping the optos with another pair from the subway to see if the problem moves. Can these things go bad? Is it worth just replacing both the opto PCB's?

Thanks in advance for any tips or troubleshooting steps that I haven't thought of yet!

Shameless bump
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/74794
I am surprise there has been zero interest so far.

First thing you need to know when troubleshooting these is that they read closed when the beam is NOT blocked, so blocking a switch that's already reading blocked (open) will have no effect.

This is the logical next step, with the intermittent nature, it sure seems like a wiring/connector issue; although it could also be a weak opto transmitter or dirty optics.

The following images should contain everything you need to isolate the problem.

Optics (resized).png
Optical Emitter (resized).png
Opto receiver (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png

Are these 2 plastics at the top of the ramps factory? When I hit the ramps, sometimes the ball doesn't make it up the ramps and the flippers seem to have enough power. The ball hits at the top of the plastic guards. I don't know if my flippers are set too high? Anything else that could cause this if these are factory?

IMG_4022_LI (resized).jpg

IMG_4023_LI (resized).jpg

Yep factory..

When I first picked up my STTNG several years ago I chased similar problems with the 16 opto board. Turned out to be J5, specifically the connections to the switch matrix. Power and other pins worked fine but the switch matrix connections would flake out every few days. You could try replacing the header pins on the board and install a new connector using a new housing and crimp on pins.

I used a very light layer of dielectric grease (silicone grease) on the header pins of the connector. Put a thin layer of grease on a Qtip, and wipe it on the headers pins. You shouldn't see any grease on the pins. This prevents oxidation of the contact points of the connector. I have not touched this board ever since.

Thanks for the info guys, typically the switch hasn't failed again since but I'll be armed with good information for when it does!

I'd check to make sure your ramp isn't set to low causing the ramp flap to become a "ramp" which causes the ball to "jump" off the ramp and hit the underside of those plastics.

I had the same issue specifically on the shuttle ramp; on mine I know there's a spacer (maybe 1/4") between the ramp and the clear plastic at the top of the ramp. Not sure if the spacer is factory or not.

I put small nylon spacers to raise the clear plastic up slightly to keep the ball from impacting the plastic as the ball goes up the ramp. Seems to work well.

20170217_180158 (resized).jpg

20170303_114012 (resized).jpg

I had my STTNG at the Louisville Arcade Expo this weekend. It was set to 3 ball settings, return to duty was default setting (on), Lock Skill shot set to three and the left kick-back was set to easy. I reset the high scores before the show started and I'm shocked at how low all the scores are, it seems no one could get over a billion points. When I saw this Saturday I thought something must be wrong so I played a quick game, not really trying my hardest and easily put about 1.3B on it. I don't know if it was just a case of most players not being really good at pinball, the good players not playing that game or just not familiar with it or a combination of those factors. With these settings you are guaranteed to get to Borg MB if you want, though your jackpots may not be very high if you don't do anything in modes before that. I'd prefer to make it a little more accessible for players at these shows but I refuse to put outlane extenders on it, other than setting the left kick-back to always on (kinda lame) and a longer ball-save timer are there any suggestions for making is easier but not too easy?