St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

5 years ago



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  • 2,549 posts
  • 253 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 23 hours ago by ArcadeDanger
  • Topic is favorited by 155 Pinsiders

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There are 2549 posts in this topic. You are on page 51 of 51.
#2501 29 days ago

Speaking of neutral zones, any recommendations for keeping a very nice one safe? Cliffys seem like they're more for preventing further damage, not sure if it's the best option here.

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#2502 29 days ago

Get a cliffy on there.

#2503 29 days ago

you already have some damage A Mantis is better at preventing the damage to start with but a cliffy will cover up existing dame and provide protection.

Image below is a mantis protector installed on a new board with 0 plays. NOTE: The Mantis in the photo below sits slightly lower the top of the playfield which could result in minor damage to the clearcoat; routing out a tiny portion of the mounting location on the bottom side of the board to bring the Mantis flush with the topside could guarantee that damage would not occur.

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#2504 27 days ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Hello STTNG gurus. I have a question.
You know when you're about the launch the ball, you can select on the DMD an item (like lock ball, start mission etc.) and you can accelerate the selection process by flipping?
What would cause the selection screen to go nuts, as if I am depressing a flipper button really fast, non-stop? (but I am actually NOT touching the flipper buttons at all)
The selection goes nuts, but the flippers do not activate, and I am not touching anything.
Takes a while for this issue to surface. I can usually play a couple normal games before this happens...
Thanks for any info!

Alrighty, I think I have fixed my issue. Problem was: I have lighted flipper buttons. With time, the PCB for the right side flipper button (that holds 3 LEDs) curled away from the cab, and towards the flipper opto board. It was making contact with the flipper opto board, shorting something.

#2505 26 days ago

hey sttng fans , new in the club . i have a question . in the borg ship the 2 lamps are not light up , when should they light up ?

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#2506 26 days ago

In test mode, or when the Borg multi all starts.

#2507 26 days ago

Yeah, check in the diagnostics.

#2508 26 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

In test mode, or when the Borg multi all starts.

i have gone in test mode , and they dont light up . c'ant test in multiball , still missing parts i have orderd .

#2509 26 days ago
Quoted from Staf:

i have gone in test mode , and they dont light up

Also check the Flasher menu.

I know when designing my
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stng-a-reargi-prototype
the Borg ship has a flasher mechanism in addition to standard "lamp" matrix mechanism.

#2510 26 days ago
Quoted from Staf:

hey sttng fans , new in the club . i have a question . in the borg ship the 2 lamps are not light up , when should they light up ?

Welcome aboard Captain!

They should flash in T8 All Lamps, or in individual lamp test T8 - 56
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#2511 25 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Welcome aboard Captain!
They should flash in T8 All Lamps, or in individual lamp test T8 - 56
[quoted image]

no lighting up in all the tests , must be a broken wire .

#2512 23 days ago

Going all out to restore a Star Trek Next Gen... will include side blade art, back playfield art, all toys re-painted, full color screen, all led, ending light show, and if that wasn't enough we powder coated all the armor and rails purple and black.

Will show some pics once its all back together.

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#2513 23 days ago
Quoted from drfrightner:

Going all out to restore a Star Trek Next Gen... will include side blade art, back playfield art, all toys re-painted, full color screen, all led, ending light show, and if that wasn't enough we powder coated all the armor and rails purple and black.
Will show some pics once its all back together.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Man....they look great! Really hate the plastic look of the toys on this game. Just picked mine up a few weeks ago but not sure how long it will stay. Not a fan...yet.

#2514 23 days ago
Quoted from gcmess:

Man....they look great! Really hate the plastic look of the toys on this game. Just picked mine up a few weeks ago but not sure how long it will stay. Not a fan...yet.

Give it time, i was unsure about sttng for a month or so. Now its the pin i play the most

#2515 21 days ago

yes , my star is ready

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#2516 21 days ago

Ok I want to throw my game in the garbage!!!

I have been battling phantom left cannon issues which seem to have come out of nowhere.

When I got this game a couple years back nothing worked properly due to corroded cpu wiring from battery leakage.

The CPU and connectors were replaced and I had gone so far as to replace the cables and both optos on the cannons at that time.

Everything has been 100% up until tonight.

However during gameplay the left cannon will randomly begin moving and repeatedly fires the solenoid and then occasionally won’t find hone position and triggers a credit dot.

I have tested everything, all positioning switches register in the cannon test. Gun finds home. Optos check out.

I have checked every other switch on the row and column and nothing is shorted or triggering anything on the cannon that I can determine. I have banged on the playfield in switch test and nothing seems to be causing anything related to the left cannon to trigger.

Is it possible after all this time the Pinsound board is causing a 12v issue that may be creating this phantom issue?

I am at my wits end with this. Any help on what I am overlooking would be greatly appreciated.

#2517 20 days ago
Quoted from Bos98:

However during gameplay the left cannon will randomly begin moving and repeatedly fires the solenoid and then occasionally won’t find hone position and triggers a credit dot.

This is a classic symptom of a cannon opto transmitter failure, essentially the game is seeing a closure of the cannon switch telling it there is a ball in the cannon; it could be caused by low 12v to the opto board under the playfield, bad connection to the opto transmitter in the cannon or at the 16 opto board, a bad filter capacitor on the 16 opto board or even a failing LM339 on the 16 opto board.

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#2518 20 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is a classic symptom of a cannon opto transmitter failure, essentially the game is seeing a closure of the cannon switch telling it there is a ball in the cannon; it could be caused by low 12v to the opto board under the playfield, bad connection to the opto transmitter in the cannon or at the 16 opto board, a bad filter capacitor on the 16 opto board or even a failing LM339 on the 16 opto board.[quoted image]

Could too many mods occupying the unregulated 12v power supply cause this to happen?

#2519 20 days ago

Sure, and easy to test, unplug some of the mods.

#2520 20 days ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Could too many mods occupying the unregulated 12v power supply cause this to happen?

Don't see this being the issue, but yeah, unplug them.

1. Quickly indirect opto board for clean connections and cold solder.
2. Take the plastic off the Canon and examine both sides of opto for broken wires.
3. Go into switch edges test. Wiggle each side of the opto switch. If you get a switch hit (open), you likely have cold solder on whichever side triggers. Do the same wiggling with the connectors on the opto board.
4. If nothing triggers, wiggle the canon wiring leading to the optos to look for issues there.
5. If none of that does anything, I'd replace the bulb if you have one. You can buy 100 on eBay for a couple bucks.
6. If bulb is fine, my first suspect would be the LM339. I think that board has three, but you only need to replace two of I remember.

#2521 20 days ago

In case you missed in the BF thread:
Pinball-Mods.com is having a site-wide Black Friday / Cyber Monday sale.

All Pinball-mods.com products are 18% off - Must use discount code: BF2018.

All Pinball.Center products and STNG VUK kits are on sale for 10% off - No discount code needed.

All sales will end at 11:59pm on Cyber Monday (11/26/2018). Shipping is not discounted. Limited to stock on hand - No Rain Checks.

#2522 19 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This is a classic symptom of a cannon opto transmitter failure, essentially the game is seeing a closure of the cannon switch telling it there is a ball in the cannon; it could be caused by low 12v to the opto board under the playfield, bad connection to the opto transmitter in the cannon or at the 16 opto board, a bad filter capacitor on the 16 opto board or even a failing LM339 on the 16 opto board.[quoted image]

Well I got it fixed. I hadn’t thought about the optos in the ball popper mechanism and the second one was indeed intermittent. For good measure and because I have about 100 opto transmitters and receivers I replaced all of the ones pertaining to the left cannon while I had it opened.

You forget how heavy that damn playfield is!

Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help.

#2523 19 days ago
Quoted from Bos98:

I have about 100 opto transmitters and receivers I replaced all of the ones pertaining to the left cannon while I had it opened.

I actually got fed up an replaced every opto in the game with fresh "blue" lensed IR transmitters and I haven't had issues since.

#2524 19 days ago
Quoted from pzy:

I got it from ThinkGeek:
https://www.thinkgeek.com/product/kjtk/
It was on sale at the time, so it was just under $100 shipped. It's a pretty high quality rug, just has to flatten out and "fluff" a bit. I like it a lot!

ThinkGeek currently has 50% off everything and free shipping with the code DOTCOM - makes this rug about $75 shipped. Nice deal!

#2525 19 days ago

Thinkgeek's site is failing to keep up with the web traffic.
I can't order my wants... giving up.

#2526 19 days ago

I finally had a chance to put programmable (addressable) LEDs on the ramps of a STTNG using a Pinduino. Been wanting to do this for a long time and am very happy with how it turned out.

Code is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/Star-Trek-TNG

Get a pinduino and go nuts!

#2527 19 days ago
Quoted from Celofane:

My mods
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
To be continued...

Would you mind sharing which replacement ships you ordered? I want to do mine, those look so much better! Thanks!

#2528 18 days ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

I finally had a chance to put programmable (addressable) LEDs on the ramps of a STTNG using a Pinduino. Been wanting to do this for a long time and am very happy with how it turned out.
Code is open source: https://github.com/elyons/professor_pinball_pinduino_sketches/tree/master/Star-Trek-TNG
Get a pinduino and go nuts!

Nice work, not really my cup of tea but I can really appreciate the opportunities for customization. One thought I had during your video was when in a battle mode (Borg or Cardashians (sp?)) and no other shots recently hit it could pulse red for red alert. I know there's no call-out for it but it might be cool if not over-done. Thanks for sharing.

#2529 17 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Nice work, not really my cup of tea but I can really appreciate the opportunities for customization. One thought I had during your video was when in a battle mode (Borg or Cardashians (sp?)) and no other shots recently hit it could pulse red for red alert. I know there's no call-out for it but it might be cool if not over-done. Thanks for sharing.

That is a great idea. I'll see if I can figure out a unique combination of flashers/motors that will let me detect one/both of those events (and then something to signal the canceling of them to return the LED ramp lights to "normal" behavior.)

Another idea I'd like to do is to use the pinduino to just drive LEDs in the Borg ship. It would be great to have it green (never understood why it has blue film in its cutouts) in normal play, and then flash red when hit in multiball.

#2530 17 days ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

It would be great to have it green (never understood why it has blue film in its cutouts) in normal play, and then flash red when hit in multiball.

THAT would be hella-cool!

#2531 17 days ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

That is a great idea. I'll see if I can figure out a unique combination of flashers/motors that will let me detect one/both of those events (and then something to signal the canceling of them to return the LED ramp lights to "normal" behavior.)

Another idea I'd like to do is to use the pinduino to just drive LEDs in the Borg ship. It would be great to have it green (never understood why it has blue film in its cutouts) in normal play, and then flash red when hit in multiball.

On my STNG RearGI project; I connected up to the lamp and Flasher matrix with an opto matrix. On that project; I made "blue" or "green" borg an option.

The Borg ship is blue because if you watch the episode; the "Type 3 ship" which is based on has blue "windows".

#2532 16 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

On my STNG RearGI project; I connected up to the lamp and Flasher matrix with an opto matrix. On that project; I made "blue" or "green" borg an option.
The Borg ship is blue because if you watch the episode; the "Type 3 ship" which is based on has blue "windows".

Thanks for the info on the episode -- I'll need to go look that one up and rewatch it. Also, thanks for the link to your thread. That is one hell of a board you made (and I love your Klingon warbird boards). Would be fun to talk shop at some point.

#2533 16 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

The Borg ship is blue because if you watch the episode; the "Type 3 ship" which is based on has blue "windows".

Very true

But for me borg is dark black/silver with green windows. So thats how mine looks

#2534 16 days ago
Quoted from lyonsden:

Would be fun to talk shop at some point.

Come to TPF'19; and we can.

#2535 15 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Not too bad... I question the use of what appears to be a DS9-ish theme on the Final Frontier... but to each his own.
Nice looking machine... even without my mods. ;D

In regards to my Ultimate Pinsound mix, The Final Frontier music is not from DS9. It's the Star Trek Generations Overture by Dennis McCarthy. Love that movie.

#2536 15 days ago

Thread lurker here. Thinking of picking up a heavy project STTNG. Does anyone know of a populated, or mostly populated playfield for sale? A big plus would be with wiring harness. Or just a separate wiring harness for sale too.

#2537 15 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Come to TPF'19; and we can.

Would love to -- on my to do list, but not sure if it will be this year. I've only heard amazing things about TPF.

#2538 15 days ago
Quoted from mrpilkington:

Thread lurker here. Thinking of picking up a heavy project STTNG. Does anyone know of a populated, or mostly populated playfield for sale? A big plus would be with wiring harness. Or just a separate wiring harness for sale too.

Nope to all questions.
I doubt you are going to find any populated PFs. Most smart people will see the project knowing that parting this title is not logical - just too good of a game that can command a really good price.

#2539 15 days ago
Quoted from mrpilkington:

Thread lurker here. Thinking of picking up a heavy project STTNG. Does anyone know of a populated, or mostly populated playfield for sale?

I have on for sale ... its a fully populated pristine playfield (better than new condition) and 100% operational. I will ship it in a 3/4" plywood cabinet with a glass inspection top layer for only $6000.

#2540 15 days ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I have on for sale ... its a fully populated pristine playfield (better than new condition) and 100% operational. I will ship it in a 3/4" plywood cabinet with a glass inspection top layer for only $6000.

but that’s easy to get rid of right? Break it off and throw it away?

Yeah Now figuring that. One of those machines you just never see all termited or falling apart. Or flooded out. Or parted out. Like an IJ ETC. Save it at all costs.

#2541 9 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Yuck. I'd have replaced those LEDs too... The crap brown color is a good indication of poor IR transmission as the Epoxy has "yellowed" due to emitting IR radiation for 30ish years. It's cheap at $0.74/ea insurance policy.
They should be this nice Blue/purple hue
[quoted image]
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/QED223A4R0/QED223A4R0CT-ND/3907905
The main reason I mention this is I was having a lot of issues with my Optos and it wasn't until I went in an replaced every one of them with new ... did my flaky opto issues go away.

Did you change the receiver as well? Wondering what part number you used with the emitter PN linked above.

I did found this "matched" set.
QED123 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=KIIz7VjqD7I4A%252bR7oPm1DQ%3d%3d
QED124 https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-QSD124?R=QSD124virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-QSD124

I'd like to use the blue emitters as it seems the Q123(4)s would be fairly easy to mix up with each other. Unless of course the pictures shown aren't correct. Can anyone confirm?

#2542 9 days ago

I have personally never had a Receiver go bad. The material used in my machine was probably everything but IR blocking (IE the black color) so it's unlikely the epoxy dome would become IR resistant. I don't think the emitters are usually black; maybe a trick of the camera... or mouser got lazy and used a photo from the receiver on an emitter.

Sadly; It's been several years (read 4+) since I replaced my emitters so I don't have an exact part number handy. I'd think any of these would likely work in our application:
Digikey IR 940nm Emitters

If you look at Digikey: QED123 is clearly pictured as having a light purple or bluish lens... so yeah; Mouser's picture is suspect. The datasheet backs this up: "clear, peach tinted, plastic". Black is NOT correct.

#2543 9 days ago
Quoted from scooter8416:

I'd like to use the blue emitters as it seems the Q123(4)s would be fairly easy to mix up with each other. Unless of course the pictures shown aren't correct. Can anyone confirm?

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#2544 8 days ago

Thank-you guys for the help. Will be ordering some 123s and 124s.

Slowly getting my sttng all shopped out

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#2545 8 days ago

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#2546 2 days ago

Hey Folks! I finally found a STTNG of my very own - I'm amazed at the complexity of this game, I've only worked on 1 EM before this.

It needs a good shop job. That said, the video / dmd is off; anyone have any ideas what it could be? The dots on the display are moving according to animations, but they're all piled towards the bottom of the DMD. I've reseated the ribbon connector and the power connector to the DMD, no change. Where should I check/focus next? Thanks!

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#2547 2 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Hey Folks! I finally found a STTNG of my very own - I'm amazed at the complexity of this game, I've only worked on 1 EM before this.
It needs a good shop job. That said, the video / dmd is off; anyone have any ideas what it could be? The dots on the display are moving according to animations, but they're all piled towards the bottom of the DMD. I've reseated the ribbon connector and the power connector to the DMD, no change. Where should I check/focus next? Thanks!
[quoted image]

Move associated ribbon connectors while the game is on. Mine gets buggy sometimes because the connection isn't tight enough. If I move the ribbon a little on the board, the problem goes away. Oddly, I also sometimes have to press on the graphics chips on the board. These can loosen from vibration. You may want to pull and reseat. Mine shows a full picture with distortion when I have either of these issues, which is not as bad as what you have here.

If these don't help, go into test mode and do the DMD test, that is, if you can navigate to it. If it's a gassing issue, you should be able to tell with the test. Gassing will have faint dots as well as missing dots. There will be key areas missing with faint dots around them. Hard to tell from your pic. Has it ever fully worked for you? Do you get any more dots than what is pictured? Know a person with a DMD game to swap?

#2548 1 day ago
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

Hey Folks! I finally found a STTNG of my very own - I'm amazed at the complexity of this game, I've only worked on 1 EM before this.

Welcome aboard Captain and CONGRATULATIONS! This remains one of my all-time favorite games.

Quoted from ArcadeDanger:

the video / dmd is off; anyone have any ideas what it could be?

Its in your best interest to become familiar with the information contained here http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC

For your current issue, look specifically in this section http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Display_problems

You can also try swapping in parts from your TZ to help isolate the issue.

#2549 23 hours ago
Quoted from Tranquilize:

Move associated ribbon connectors while the game is on. Mine gets buggy sometimes because the connection isn't tight enough. If I move the ribbon a little on the board, the problem goes away. Oddly, I also sometimes have to press on the graphics chips on the board. These can loosen from vibration. You may want to pull and reseat. Mine shows a full picture with distortion when I have either of these issues, which is not as bad as what you have here.

Thanks Tranquilize, I tried your ideas, physically tweaking things didn't show change. I checked the voltages at the DMD, the 5v and 12v were good.

Since I wasn't getting much progress I punted further investigation until I could talk to some friends about lending their DMD.

As part of going through and cleaning up the machine (it was so dusty!) I'm very happy to report that I pulled the batteries from the board to test their voltages. No leaking. I guess the system was in some sort of bad/corrupted memory state, the display started working after I replaced the batteries. Ran through the tests, replaced a pile of light bulbs.

Game is running, couple of things to do: Neutral Zone hole is worn, so finding a Cliffy for that, the left cannon is not finding home, and the top left corner is dark that I can't see much of what's going on (I'm wondering if there's a burnt bulb I missed there or it's just dark).

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