St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

4 years ago


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There are 1703 posts in topic. You are on page 27 of 35.
#1301 4 months ago
Quoted from Axl:

This is cheap, works wonders, and won`t look silly in the machine.
http://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm

Looks like that would work great also. It doesn't say what machines it fits, or if its universal.

#1302 4 months ago

These line up horribly. Unless I've done something completely wrong. Are you supposed to screw it in from the side like that too? Ball will hit the screw if if traveling on that side for any reason.

20170215_182619 (resized).jpg

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#1303 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Can you tell me if the Alpha ramp came with the upper decal attached?

My Alpha ramp that I got at Pinball Expo years ago, did not come with the decal that has the space graphics and ball. I had to take mine off the old ramp and put on the new repro.

Here is my game with PBL ghost busting LEDS and purple Evo bumpers. Changed all posts and top lanes to purple. Purple frosted in 3/4 of the playfield and frosted white in the bottom 1/4. Use warm whites in yellow and orange inserts. Modded Hallmark ornaments with Zit's purple wing leds. Pinball Dreams apron and lit backboard from Germany.

IMG_3066 (resized).JPG

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#1304 4 months ago

hope to become a member this weekend,
hope she's worth it
im trading my jurassic park and my lethal weapon for it
she seams to be in great shape except the slingshot plastics
fingers crossed it will happen

make it so

#1305 4 months ago

Good deal for you. JP is fun, LW is aweful. In the US JP is about $2,200 and LW is about $1,200, if that's true for your country you are getting a great deal.

Quoted from jorro:

hope to become a member this weekend,
hope she's worth it
im trading my jurassic park and my lethal weapon for it
she seams to be in great shape except the slingshot plastics
fingers crossed it will happen
make it so

#1306 4 months ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Good deal for you. JP is fun, LW is aweful. In the US JP is about $2,200 and LW is about $1,200, if that's true for your country you are getting a great deal.

Agreed; two DE turds for STTNG is a win-win-win.

#1307 4 months ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Agreed; two DE turds for STTNG is a win-win-win.

What would be in your collection ?
Owned a JP was a good game! Sad commentary for someone that hides his collection !
Just because you may dislike DE doesn't mean everybody has too!

#1308 4 months ago

JP is a fun game with some good shots, the T-Rex eating the ball and the raptor pit but it's not in the same league as STTNG IMO. Harsh to call it a turd though.

#1309 4 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

JP is a fun game with some good shots, the T-Rex eating the ball and the raptor pit but it's not in the same league as STTNG IMO. Harsh to call it a turd though.

Nicely put

#1310 4 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

Nicely put

Quoted from transprtr4u:

Nicely put

I own both and both are keepers for me. Especially with the new JP 6.0 ROMs that came out recently

#1311 4 months ago

So close. A switch matrix issue and installation of the shuttle ornament is all that's left. I knew this was a big project going in but DAMN! Before and after(or during i guess).

Thanks for all the help from everyone in this thread! Seriously appreciate it.

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#1312 4 months ago
Quoted from transprtr4u:

What would be in your collection ?

BTTF and STTNG among others

Quoted from transprtr4u:

Just because you may dislike DE doesn't mean everybody has too!

True, one man's trash is another man's treasure.

#1313 4 months ago
Quoted from simplykind:

So close. A switch matrix issue and installation of the shuttle ornament is all that's left. I knew this was a big project going in but DAMN! Before and after(or during i guess).
Thanks for all the help from everyone in this thread! Seriously appreciate it.

Don't forget that ColorDMD!

#1314 4 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Don't forget that ColorDMD!

Yeah, most definitely needs a ColorDMD!

#1316 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone use this in an STTNG?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3666

Should work well but if @barakandl has any left the cheap 6264 substitutes are much cheaper, I put them in all my WPC games.

#1317 4 months ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Should work well but if barakandl has any left the cheap 6264 substitutes are much cheaper, I put them in all my WPC games.

How much cheaper? The pinball life one is only $20, I thought that was pretty cheap. Anyone ever install that one from pinball life? Is it just plug and play or would I have to take out the board and do some soldering?

#1318 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone use this in an STTNG?
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=3666

No, I cant stand when the date/time isn't accurate.

#1319 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

How much cheaper? The pinball life one is only $20, I thought that was pretty cheap. Anyone ever install that one from pinball life? Is it just plug and play or would I have to take out the board and do some soldering?

Minor soldering, if your RAM is already socketed; if not, please don't attempt this unless you are already skilled in PCB repair...please see this link for more information.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size

#1320 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Minor soldering, if your RAM is already socketed; if not, please don't attempt this unless you are already skilled in PCB repair...please see this link for more information.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Jumpers.2C_RAM_and_ROM_size

How about this product...?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1783

#1321 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

No, I cant stand when the date/time isn't accurate.

If you change the setting so it doesn't display it, how do you know it's wrong?

#1322 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

How much cheaper? The pinball life one is only $20, I thought that was pretty cheap. Anyone ever install that one from pinball life? Is it just plug and play or would I have to take out the board and do some soldering?

I think they were $6 a piece but I could be wrong. It's unlikely the RAM is socketed so you would probably have to pull the board, remove the old IC and install the new one or a socket and the new one. As @Pin_Guy has already said, don't do this if you're not pretty good with a solder iron.

#1323 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

No, I cant stand when the date/time isn't accurate.

Why wouldn't that setting be saved if all the others are?

I wouldn't think using nvram affects time and date other than you need to set it once initially

#1324 4 months ago
Quoted from BobC:

Why wouldn't that setting be saved if all the others are?
I wouldn't think using nvram affects time and date other than you need to set it once initially

There's no battery to keep the clock running when the power is turned off. Original design=volatile RAM + battery + real time clock, NVRAM retrofit = no battery + non-volatile RAM = no clock running while powered off. The up-side is you never worry about batteries leaking on your valuable board again or losing your settings / high scores when they die, the down side is you lose the date / time settings being accurate. With STTNG there's relatively little downside, for games with Midnight Madness Multiball or time/date stamps on high scores it's more of an issue, if it's worth it to you or not is a personal preference.

#1325 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Looks like that would work great also. It doesn't say what machines it fits, or if its universal.

It is universal. i Have it on Pinball Magic, BSD, STTNG, TS and so on.

#1326 4 months ago
Quoted from Walamab:

I noticed some strange behavior of my left cannon lamp (lamp 52). It does not respond during the individual lamp test yet I see it flashing (occasionally) during attract mode. I've traced continuity in both wires (red and yellow) from the lamp socket to the board and see voltage at the board. There is a diode connecting the red wire to the lamp socket like the schematic indicates. Am I missing something that would keep this lamp from working correctly? I assume since I see it illuminate during attract that the diode is good. I've tried known good bulbs as well. A push in the right direction would be appreciated.
Thanks!

For what it's worth...I go to the bottom of this one. Turns out it was the flaky Molex connector that the gun harness lamp lead use. Replaced it an now it works great. Maybe this will help someone else.

#1327 4 months ago

Anyone ever put in JJP invisiglass in their STTNG?

https://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=64

Does it fit good? The glare off the DMD and backbox LEDs is really bad on this game, I know there might be cheaper solutions but I had invisiglass in the WOZ we used to own and it was really awesome.

#1328 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone ever put in JJP invisiglass in their STTNG?
https://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=64
Does it fit good? The glare off the DMD and backbox LEDs is really bad on this game, I know there might be cheaper solutions but I had invisiglass in the WOZ we used to own and it was really awesome.

I have PDI glass in mine: http://pinballdecals.com/NonGlareOpticalGlassPage.html fits just fine and looks fantastic. Whether it's worth it or not is a subject for debate in many other threads that already exist here. In my opinion it might be a little better than Invisiglass (which I have in my WOZ just down the wall from STTNG) but I don't think it's an order of magnitude better, again opinions will vary. Both are much better than standard tempered glass.

#1329 4 months ago

Every time I order parts from Marco I spend more than I intend to make the best use of the shipping. So I decided to replace the shuttlecraft with my last parts purchase. My original shuttle was looking pretty rough, the Marco shuttle looked ok, though I didn't like the colors so I painted it myself and put on their decals. Looks very nice. Now waiting for my new clear plastics to come from Germany. I have had my STTNG for about a year now, and I think I have spend almost $800 on it. Still my #1 pinball machine.

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#1330 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone ever put in JJP invisiglass in their STTNG?
https://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=64
Does it fit good? The glare off the DMD and backbox LEDs is really bad on this game, I know there might be cheaper solutions but I had invisiglass in the WOZ we used to own and it was really awesome.

I have JJP invisiglass on my STTNG. Fits perfectly and looks amazing.

#1331 4 months ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

I have JJP invisiglass on my STTNG. Fits perfectly and looks amazing.

Awesome. It's the next thing on my list after finishing the led upgrades. I'm putting the invisiglass ahead of the color dmd because the glare is terrible right now.

#1332 4 months ago

If the glare is from the backbox, you can use GIOCD to dim the backbox LEDs during gameplay.

#1333 4 months ago
Quoted from pezpunk:

If the glare is from the backbox, you can use GIOCD to dim the backbox LEDs during gameplay.

Yes, I did read about that. I'll have to try it once I get to that point. I have the playfield gi lights ordered through cointaker, ordered Tuesday but they haven't even shipped yet. Once I finally get those in then I'll get the GI OCD installed. The glare from the DMD is the worst though. Instead of alternate solutions I think I'll be most happy with a sheet of invisiglass.

#1334 4 months ago

I'm having a recurring, occasional issue where my STTNG goes into a ball search when a ball is lost, and never seems to find the ball. No switch errors are displayed (no credit dot), and all trough and subway, etc. switches work as expected in switch test.

I've already replaced the trough opto boards with new ones from Great Lakes Modular, and tried wiggling the connectors/wires on both the trough opto boards and the opto board under the playfield and no switches fire in switch edge test mode.

I also recently added the plastic shim that goes in the trough to keep balls from getting hung up on a possible divit there.

One thing that I've noticed is that when the ball search does occur, simply turning the game off and on doesn't resolve it. However, if I select "clear all balls" from the test menu and let a few balls travel around the playfield that does seem to solve it until some random time in the future when it will happen again.

I'm running out of ideas on this one, though the fact that moving balls fixes it while powering off/on doesn't makes me think it might be a physical problem, vs. a switch or solenoid not working (all solenoids also work in test mode).

Alright STTNG "engineers", what do you think?

#1335 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I'm having a recurring, occasional issue where my STTNG goes into a ball search when a ball is lost, and never seems to find the ball.

What do you mean by "lost"? Presumably you know where the ball is! Does it go into one of the playfield scoops, then it doesn't kick a ball up?

#1336 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

Alright STTNG "engineers", what do you think?

Check your balls,
no no those ones.
the ones in the sttng.are they (or one) magnetized and not rolling in the trough properly .
problem might only show up if the magnetized ball is in a certain spot !

#1337 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Yes, I did read about that. I'll have to try it once I get to that point. I have the playfield gi lights ordered through cointaker, ordered Tuesday but they haven't even shipped yet. Once I finally get those in then I'll get the GI OCD installed. The glare from the DMD is the worst though. Instead of alternate solutions I think I'll be most happy with a sheet of invisiglass.

I use the GI OCD backbox dimming feature and the DMD glare guard like one of these. No need for PDI glass if you have these! (that is unless you have room lighting causing the glare )

http://www.cometpinball.com/DMD-GLARE-ELIMINATOR-p/dmdglare.htm

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2212

#1338 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I'm having a recurring, occasional issue where my STTNG goes into a ball search when a ball is lost, and never seems to find the ball. No switch errors are displayed (no credit dot), and all trough and subway, etc. switches work as expected in switch test.
I've already replaced the trough opto boards with new ones from Great Lakes Modular, and tried wiggling the connectors/wires on both the trough opto boards and the opto board under the playfield and no switches fire in switch edge test mode.
I also recently added the plastic shim that goes in the trough to keep balls from getting hung up on a possible divit there.
One thing that I've noticed is that when the ball search does occur, simply turning the game off and on doesn't resolve it. However, if I select "clear all balls" from the test menu and let a few balls travel around the playfield that does seem to solve it until some random time in the future when it will happen again.
I'm running out of ideas on this one, though the fact that moving balls fixes it while powering off/on doesn't makes me think it might be a physical problem, vs. a switch or solenoid not working (all solenoids also work in test mode).
Alright STTNG "engineers", what do you think?

When it happens put the game is switch levels test and note which optos are showing closed and open, then when you clear out the balls take careful note of where they all are. You may even want to jam a rag up in the top to stop balls launched from the trough going into the subway just to make it easier to keep track. This should tell you which opto is not registering at the proper time or where the ball is getting hung up. Also try vigorously shaking the game when it's in search mode to see where a ball might be stuck.

#1339 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I'm having a recurring, occasional issue where my STTNG goes into a ball search when a ball is lost, and never seems to find the ball. No switch errors are displayed (no credit dot), and all trough and subway, etc. switches work as expected in switch test.
I've already replaced the trough opto boards with new ones from Great Lakes Modular, and tried wiggling the connectors/wires on both the trough opto boards and the opto board under the playfield and no switches fire in switch edge test mode.
I also recently added the plastic shim that goes in the trough to keep balls from getting hung up on a possible divit there.
One thing that I've noticed is that when the ball search does occur, simply turning the game off and on doesn't resolve it. However, if I select "clear all balls" from the test menu and let a few balls travel around the playfield that does seem to solve it until some random time in the future when it will happen again.
I'm running out of ideas on this one, though the fact that moving balls fixes it while powering off/on doesn't makes me think it might be a physical problem, vs. a switch or solenoid not working (all solenoids also work in test mode).
Alright STTNG "engineers", what do you think?

Thanks for the suggestions guys. So long story short, I added a colorDMD to the machine yesterday and after a couple of games it went dark. Turns out my BR5 bridge rectifier had bought the farm with the increased load from the lcd. Then when I had that fixed and put the power driver board back in the game it wouldn't boot, lost 5v power. So replaced BR2 and now everything is working again!

Played about a dozen games and no ball searches! Did have 2 occasions where shooting the Mode Start hole caused 2 balls to be shot out the left popper (onto the wireform) instead of the expected one, so I'm not sure what that is about.

All switches fire as expected when tested. I guess that time will tell if this issue re-occurs.

It is also amazing how much smoother and faster the cannons move now with the new bridge rectifiers.

#1340 4 months ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

Anyone ever put in JJP invisiglass in their STTNG?
https://store.jerseyjackpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=64
Does it fit good? The glare off the DMD and backbox LEDs is really bad on this game, I know there might be cheaper solutions but I had invisiglass in the WOZ we used to own and it was really awesome.

On my STTNG I added an additional spotlight over the left slingshot with a purple led in it to provide some additional lighting for in front of the flippers. Also have purple bulbs under the Bird of Prey. The rest of the GI is basically cool white except in the pops. What I've found is the additional lighting really helps to reduce topside glare from the dmd and backglass. I haven't tried it with white led in the spotlight so not sure if it's color dependent but it might be a much lower cost alternative you could try.

IMG_0824 (resized).JPG

IMG_0857 (resized).JPG

#1341 4 months ago
Quoted from Fytr:

I'm having a recurring, occasional issue where my STTNG goes into a ball search when a ball is lost, and never seems to find the ball. No switch errors are displayed (no credit dot), and all trough and subway, etc. switches work as expected in switch test.
I've already replaced the trough opto boards with new ones from Great Lakes Modular, and tried wiggling the connectors/wires on both the trough opto boards and the opto board under the playfield and no switches fire in switch edge test mode.
I also recently added the plastic shim that goes in the trough to keep balls from getting hung up on a possible divit there.
One thing that I've noticed is that when the ball search does occur, simply turning the game off and on doesn't resolve it. However, if I select "clear all balls" from the test menu and let a few balls travel around the playfield that does seem to solve it until some random time in the future when it will happen again.
I'm running out of ideas on this one, though the fact that moving balls fixes it while powering off/on doesn't makes me think it might be a physical problem, vs. a switch or solenoid not working (all solenoids also work in test mode).
Alright STTNG "engineers", what do you think?

I have a very similar problem on my sttng. I wonder if it is the br that I need to fix? Is there a good way to test that hypothesis?

#1342 4 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I have a very similar problem on my sttng. I wonder if it is the br that I need to fix? Is there a good way to test that hypothesis?

I would start here:

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Using_a_Multimeter_to_Test_the_Bridge_Rectifier_and_Capacitors

#1344 4 months ago

I'm looking to purchase STTHG and the one I looked at last night had decal graphics on the cabinet. Is this pin originally a cabinet produced with decal graphics and not silk screened?

#1345 4 months ago
Quoted from thunder001:

Is this pin originally a cabinet produced with decal graphics and not silk screened?

No, the cabinets were silkscreen and the head was decaled.

#1346 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

No, the cabinets were silkscreen and the head was decaled.

Yep. I have an HUO. My cabinet is not a decal, but the head is. If anyone ever needs pics of anything on STTNG in an original state let me know. Nothings ever really been done to this one since new so everything is as it was when it left the factory, no hacks or mods under the playfield. The one mod I should do though is that tieback under the drop target.

#1348 4 months ago
Quoted from weaverj:

good price?

Better snatch it up today.

#1349 4 months ago

Is there a connector on the power driver board or elsewhere to get +5VDC? I'm trying to modify the way the LED strips at the back and in the drain react when Borg Multi-ball starts and when video mode is activated.

I'm thinking of using a solid state relay to use the GI circuit to switch the relay providing 12V to the LED strips. The solid state relay requires a +5V supply.

Thanks in advance for the help.

#1350 4 months ago

Is there a connector on the power driver board or elsewhere to get +5VDC? I'm trying to modify the way the LED strips at the back and in the drain react when Borg Multi-ball starts and when video mode is activated.

I'm thinking of using a solid state relay to use the GI circuit to switch the relay providing 12V to the LED strips. The solid state relay requires a +5V supply.

Thanks in advance for the help.

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