These are no longer manufactured, they are different because the wire connections come off the side of the switch. The normal switches have the connections at the end of the blades but because of the cannons, there isn't enough clearance to have the wires comming off the back of the switch. I believe these particular switches were only used on STTNG and Road Show.

In fact, they do!
IMG_1357 (resized).JPG
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/RG-12

In your picture, you seem to be missing the standoff for the Delta ramp ball return. This is a part that could be difficult to find

Thanks, I figured that was the protector and ordered earlier today.

Do you mean the tall hexagon post that the wire form mounts to? What is the length? I think I can find one.

duplicate

That same sleeve and screw is found on other games (Firepower comes to mind). It is such a simple piece, I'm surprised one of the pinball places hasen't had some made yet.

I bought the 1" #5 sheet metal screw (a wood screw would also do) from the local hardware store. Took the screw to a hobby shop and found a piece of aluminum tubing that the screw barely fit inside and cut it to length and filed the cut smooth. Really easy.

Yes, it's 2.25" tapped on both sides.

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I am definitely in if you end up confirming that your solution works!

They look good to me, I'm in plus ill kick you some for labor. You shouldn't be doing this for free.

Interesting, the post screwed into my playfield has a female end to receive this post. I think I need a male post on one end.

Just in case someone else wants to try this, I thought I'd post some notes on having my phaser handle and trigger powder coated.

1) Don't powder coat the trigger! It won't fit back in the handles correctly. Had to strip the coating off. Would have looked cool in gloss red but just didn't work. So instead of a color I polished it to a mirror finish and I think I like this better

2) My phaser handle had apparently been re-painted at some point and there was a reaction with the powder during cure making a nasty mess. After stripping and sandblasting and reapplying the powder coat it turned out GREAT! I would recommend removing all of the existing paint/coating before powder coating.

3) Take before pictures "before" you finish so you can compare. I can only provide pictures of the "after" . I'll post them later

Forgot to mention, be sure to apply a clear coat after the color coat to help with wear.

Could someone with the PinBits shaker motor comment on when the motor shakes. Is it ONLY with the shield flashes? I would think it would also be the pop-bumpers like many other games. Additionally, do you think it is worth the $250 price tag?

This is very interesting, I never did confirm that the post the standoff screws into was correct in my...I'm now thinking it's not; unfortunately I don't have a copy of the Williams green parts catalog, and the online version of it is missing the entire metal post section.

My machine has the post in the picture installed...
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The STTNG manual does show a ramp post with part number 02-4934 which is available at bay area amusement http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=baa&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MP-02-4934 and could be your missing post!

Installed a roadshow shaker into my STNG , bought the Pinbits intelligent shaker board.

http://www.iobium.com/installing_the_shaker_motor_cont.

Whole new game with the shaker

Thats it!

Sorry, million questions as I sort this thing out. Found this plastic in a box of extras. I think it's for sttng. Anyone know? The two in the middle, not the slingshots.

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The one you are holding (31-1803-27) is for sure, its needed to prevent balls from getting stuck under the delta ramp. See pictures for placement.

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Delta ramp removed for clarity
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The other clear part I don't recognize, judging by the curvature of the rounded cut, it looks like its designed for a pop bumper area, but I don't know what game it's from.

This is a picture of my STTNG that I like a lot. It's of the first layer of the upper playfield and shows a lot of stuff you normally can see making it a good reference document. Keep in mind that this game did not ship with a lower pop bumper cap; the one in the photo has not yet been cut to fit around the Beta Ramp.

STTNG Playfield level 1 (resized).jpg

White or black replacement rubbers? Opinions?

Translucent from pinball life or colored from Titan. Ditch the blah black or white.

What's wrong with the translucent from Titan? Pinball life ones better?

Seconded. Black make the Playfield dirty and white stand out too much against the darker color scheme of this game. Translucent look futuristic.

I have yellow rubbers on mine. It's nice, but I'm always cleaning them... Next time I'll do something darker.

If you are only getting translucent then I get them from pinball life as well as my colored posts because they are cheaper. If you are getting colored rings with translucent slingshot bands then Titan, as pinball life doesn't have the colored rings.

Pics?

Thanks for the input on the rubbers. Just ordered a set of translucents. It's going to look great!

I'd love to see pics when it's all done.

I'll be sure to post pics when I'm done.

Does anyone have a count of each type of bulb used in STTNG? I'm looking to put together my own LED kit, but I don't know how many GI, flashers, etc are in the game. The inserts I can count, but I wanted to have a good idea instead of guessing.

Also I just installed my new non-ghosting ROM and it works like a charm!

Thanks

By the way, here's a shot of my newly-painted Borg ship with the green acrylic windows from Pinbits. I just used a metallic gray enamel spray paint I got from the model car section of Hobby Lobby. I followed up the gray with spurts of metallic black and then used some crumpled paper to wipe away the excess black. Turned out pretty good - definitely better than before!

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Don't know if this will help, but I made up this to help know what bulbs I was looking to replace with LEDs.

STTNG Blubs (resized).jpg

If anyone needs a replacement Delta ramp I have a good condition one for sale. $50 shipped (within US) and has a new ramp decal installed. No cracking, there's a bit of spidering around some of the back screw holes but nothing is cracked through.

Ramp was pulled as I got a new set of ramps and subway for a playfield swap. Still in progress. What a project...lol.

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My advice is order several extra of each type you get. The extra buck or two is WELL worth it when you realize you missed a bulb here and there, or you realize a certain bulb works better in a different spot, or you get a defective bulb.

Also, if you're not already doing so, I highly recommend color-matching the inserts -- it goes a long way towards making the game look brand new. Cool white looks better than warm white on this particular playfield, too, unless you really want a "vintage" look.

This is incredible and exactly what I had in mind for the inserts.

That's a good idea. I've never done an LED kit by myself. The ones that are sold online look way too purple for my tastes. I saw someone's game with cool white GI and I think that looked the best so far. Definitely going for a color match on the inserts.

There was one insert in particular - the Jackpot at the Start Mission hole - that I had a really hard time finding a good LED for. Keep in mind I'm keeping mine more traditional looking with Retro style warm whites most places, and none of them or even brighter, faceted style ones light that insert real well because the light socket is on the end of a pcb and it doesn't extend into the middle of the insert real far. Curious what everyone else has used there, I'm thinking about buying a red flexible to try when I place my next order.

i'm a big fan of the flex-head LEDs. i bend them so that they are pointed directly towards the insert, but as far away as possible. that makes them diffuse across the insert more completely with less of a "hot spot".

flex head (resized).png

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Green_16-9932/index.html#/72/

according to the linked manual, there are thirty-six #555's and eight #906 in the backbox. and another fifty-one #555's and eleven #906 on the playfield; so eighty-seven #555 and nineteen #906.

Apparently there were two #44, two #89 (even though these aren't used in the game), five #555, and one #906 in the caxh box spare parts bag.

There are two #555 in the cabinet for START and TO BE CONTINUED BUTTONS, as well as two #555 in the coindoor for the coin mechs, I don't think these were included in the total.

These are absolutely perfect for the Warp Nacelles

Agree with you both. Also, Comet's Cyan LEDs match the color of the STTNG shield inserts! Looks great!

Word of warning - STTNG uses GI dimming during game play (Borg mulitball when you are taking damage, for example) which makes GI OCD mandatory if you use LEDs in the GI and the shield inserts. Otherwise, you will end up with distracting, ugly flickering LEDs during these modes or gasp, you have to disable GI dimming. The GI dimming during these modes is one of my favorite features of STTNG. Heck, Borg multiball is one of my favorite multiballs in all of pinball!

I can't remember how many there are but I recommend color matched (blue or green) flashers for the borg ship and one blue one for the flasher behind the tractor beam in the translite (it partially lights during the start of Borg MB and looks killer).

This is precisely what I was looking for.

Thanks!

Yes and no, STTNG does have dimming circuitry for the GI, but Adjustment A.1 - 25 allows you to disable this feature. With this set to disabled your GI lights will not flicker at all.

Yeah but you lose cool functionality! In addition to the normal GI, the shield inserts are also GI and dim in relation to your current shield level during Borg Multiball.

This is true, but GI OCD if far from "mandatory" for the shield inserts, the only one that can decide this is the OP. If he feels the shield dimming feature is worth the cost of the OCD board then he should get one

More than the shield inserts dim, the entire GI lighting "flicker" when you take damage. If you disabling dimming, you are missing one of the coolest features of the game. Agreed that GI OCD is not mandatory, but neither are LEDs.

I should have said, GI OCD is mandatory with LEDs in the GI in my opinion.

I just got a nice 1 owner huo sttng. It's all stock. Was thinking about ordering this kit... http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/05-1713

Anyone use that kit, or is there something better?

Cointaker has 3 kits. One says "premium non-ghosting leds", one says "super leds" and one says "frosted leds".

I want the leds bright.
Anyone use any of these kits or have any advice? Is there instructions on where each bulb in the kit goes?

Don't order a kit. Look at the game and order LEDS you want.
I don't think I have ever bought a kit; it's fun to implement your own lighting and probably cheaper too.
You'd have to ask cointaker... but IIRC they didn't use to provide instructions. I think it was up to the customer to figure it out.

The problem is I've never done up a game with leds. I don't know how many go on it, or the types/sizes etc... I really have no clue. I thought a kit would save me some time.

What are the best to use? Cointaker?