(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

11 years ago


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  • Latest reply 25 hours ago by sfspanky
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There are 10,614 posts in this topic. You are on page 211 of 213.
#10501 27 days ago

Thanks everyone, I have ordered the parts I was looking for.

#10502 26 days ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

I am installing a new set of ramps and ended up with an extra Alpha Quadrant sticker. If anyone needs it, send me a message and I will throw it in the mail.

Received yesterday ....

Thank you so much

#10503 25 days ago

Anyone have a display cover for sale? Mine has a lot of scratches on the clear display area. PPS is out of stock, and Marco is way over priced.

#10504 25 days ago

You might be able to polish those out with novus 3, 2 or other plastic compounds if they aren't too deep

#10505 25 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

Anyone have a display cover for sale? Mine has a lot of scratches on the clear display area. PPS is out of stock, and Marco is way over priced.

The last few Speaker panels that I have purchased from Classic Arcade have been pretty nice. Can't speak for their STTNG speaker panel as my OG is in very nice shape, but the ones I purchased for WH2O, TAF and FH I'd definitely buy again.

https://classic-arcades.com/shop/ols/products/sorcerer-speaker-panel

#10506 25 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

You might be able to polish those out with novus 3, 2 or other plastic compounds if they aren't too deep

Tried that....didn't work as the scratches are pretty deep...unfortunately

#10507 25 days ago
Quoted from sfspanky:

The last few Speaker panels that I have purchased from Classic Arcade have been pretty nice. Can't speak for their STTNG speaker panel as my OG is in very nice shape, but the ones I purchased for WH2O, TAF and FH I'd definitely buy again.
https://classic-arcades.com/shop/ols/products/sorcerer-speaker-panel

Thanks .... I'll check it out

#10508 25 days ago

I recently used the Classic Arcades speaker panel plastic on mine. The printing quality is nice, but a few caveats:

- It's a bit darker than the original, so the "ceiling" of the bridge above the display cutout is more dark brown than tan, and some finer details get lost.
- There's a thin line of the white base print showing at the bottom of the display cutout on mine, maybe 1/2 mm or so, that shouldn't be there.
- Since there's no thick black backing (whatever that stuff is) on the rear of it like the original, it's a little translucent, so don't use a light colored adhesive tape or you WILL see it.

I got one b/c I needed a replacement for my badly gouged original and couldn't find another anywhere. I'd rather it wasn't as dark as it is, but overall it's acceptable.

#10509 25 days ago

I had Mikonos make a replacement speaker panel for my Stargate...very nice work. I had to send it to Spain though, which was pricey, but I had no other option. If someone really needs a quality replacement, send it to him...here is a thread on the Stargate he did for me. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stargate-pinball-speaker-panel-art-plastic-gottlieb-reproduction

#10510 23 days ago
Quoted from koji:

Hey club.. just a FYI, I'm planning on streaming the latest (soon to be released) LX-9 with NZ mod tonight at 8PM PST, if anyone wants to drop by and check it out..
https://www.twitch.tv/pinbruh

When are you planning to release LX-9 to the public?

#10511 23 days ago

Looking for some help.

For some reason my eddy proximity sensors are not picking up balls at in the in-lanes both sides and consequently I am not getting the super spinner or the hurry up.

I have checked the wiring at the sensors and at the connectors J205/J207 everything is as it should be.

I did a switch test and the ball did not register. I did a play test and got the warp factor up to 6 to activate the hurry up in-lane sensor and nothing. Then I got warp 7 for the super spinner in-lane sensor and nothing. (These tests are where the features should begin according to the rule book)

Each of the sensor boards leds were working but now the right board's led is out.

I believe these proximity switches work with a magnetic field and I have been using the 'Star Trek Logo' balls and thought it may be the metallurgy of them so I tested with a standard ball.

Do these boards have a working life? I am hesitant to purchase two new boards at 69 euros each without first checking with the people who know.

Any help, as usual, would be much appreciated.

#10512 23 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Do these boards have a working life? I am hesitant to purchase two new boards at 69 euros each without first checking with the people who know.

Yes, they can drift over time. However, very common for cracked header pins or the IDC connector to have a connection issue. Investigate there first.

#10513 23 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Looking for some help.

There is a small screw (rheostat) that controls the sensitivity on the board. I have to adjust mine from time to time.

#10514 23 days ago
Quoted from pjflyer:

There is a small screw (rheostat) that controls the sensitivity on the board. I have to adjust mine from time to time.

This has restored the switches. The left inlane switch works as it should to activate hurry up.
The right inlane registers in switch test but does not activate super spinner at warp 7.

Am I missing something?

#10515 23 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

This has restored the switches.

Do you have this board? If so, the sensitivity can be adjusted by rotating the round rheostat until it senses the ball.

When the ball goes down the right in lane, does it start flashing the warp factor light on the left orbit or just not activating the super spinner?

eddy board (resized).pngeddy board (resized).png
#10516 23 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

When are you planning to release LX-9 to the public?

Not my decision. I just help with testing, although I did release some mods to improve the ball nz ball detection and command Dec which will be part of the package.

Should be soon.

#10517 23 days ago
Quoted from pjflyer:

Do you have this board? If so, the sensitivity can be adjusted by rotating the round rheostat until it senses the ball.
When the ball goes down the right in lane, does it start flashing the warp factor light on the left orbit or just not activating the super spinner?
[quoted image]

Yes that is the board. I altered the sensitivity and it registers in switch edge test.
The warp factor light activates yes.
The spinner light does not flash when it should and the spinner value does not increase.

#10518 23 days ago

Do you have super spinner on in the settings?

#10519 23 days ago

Would a different ROM version be different? Not sure what's happening if the eddy is working but not activating super spinner when it should.

Quoted from slochar:

Do you have super spinner on in the settings?

Been a while since I've been in settings, I didn't know it was in there.

#10520 22 days ago
Quoted from pjflyer:

Would a different ROM version be different? Not sure what's happening if the eddy is working but not activating super spinner when it should.

Been a while since I've been in settings, I didn't know it was in there.

Ah. I've recently fitted lx8. I didn't know there was a super spinner setting.

#10521 22 days ago

It's in lx7 too

#10522 22 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Do you have super spinner on in the settings?

I checked this morning and super spinner is on in the settings.

#10523 21 days ago

Hello pinball and Star Trek fans.

I'm almost done with restoring my TNG but I have, one issue left.

When locking the first Ball, about 50% of the time time, the game loses the Ball.

Lock 1 is registered and the Admiral tells me the borg are coming, but the game won't give me a ball back. It goes in research mode, then I lose the Ball.

It does this only for Ball number 1, so I guess an opto issue somewhere, but I'm not exactly sure what is the normal path for Ball number 1.

Any idea ?

Merci

#10524 20 days ago

Sounds like Opto problems remain to me.

#10525 18 days ago

I have an issue that has been discussed years ago from what I read. After all of the balls have been in play during final frontier and the flippers turn off, two balls load into the shooter lane, and i play both balls until one drains. The game seems to know and on the next ball into the shooter lane, only one is shot out. Opto issue in the subway? I have cleaned them all, and still seem to get the problem. Suggestions?

#10526 18 days ago
Quoted from math08:

I have an issue that has been discussed years ago from what I read. After all of the balls have been in play during final frontier and the flippers turn off, two balls load into the shooter lane, and i play both balls until one drains. The game seems to know and on the next ball into the shooter lane, only one is shot out. Opto issue in the subway? I have cleaned them all, and still seem to get the problem. Suggestions?

Check Ball trough optos. Specifically ball #5 and 6 optos.

Magnetized balls can also wreak havoc in the trough.

#10527 18 days ago

Based on the placement on the ball trough, i assume the ball 6 opto is LED7? I just dropped the board and LED7 is not on. All other optos are on, and the receivers are working.

#10528 18 days ago

Just ordered new opto boards from Pinball Life. Thanks all.

#10529 17 days ago
Quoted from math08:

Just ordered new opto boards from Pinball Life. Thanks all.

Just did the same, had 2 balls kicking out upon starting a game. Reflowed etc. but no change..

#10530 17 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Just did the same, had 2 balls kicking out upon starting a game. Reflowed etc. but no change..

Could be opto #1 not working. That one detects a ball jam in the trough. If it’s on all the time it would cause a double kick out.

#10531 17 days ago

So…..not only can the opto board have cold solder joints. But the blue resistors get smoking hot and can desolder themselves. The opto can also dim and dull over time. All of which can cause these problems. I don’t usually recommend just throwing new boards in as the .100 connectors are notorious for either getting loose or tarnished over time. Replacing the boards and having a bad connector may mask the problem for a time but have it creep back up later. For the $70 ish you can get the original boards gone thru and know they are 100%. Most places have a $35 testing fee for no fault found and you will know it’s not the boards them

#10532 17 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Just did the same, had 2 balls kicking out upon starting a game. Reflowed etc. but no change..

Stupid question. If the game double feeds a ball, you take off the glass and remove the ball, power cycle the game and press start, does it still kick out 2 balls?

#10533 16 days ago
Quoted from Energyspike:

Just did the same, had 2 balls kicking out upon starting a game. Reflowed etc. but no change..

Replaced both boards yesterday and all is working well. When I have time I will find out which opto is bad and repair so I have a future back up for both STTNG and IJ.

#10534 16 days ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Stupid question. If the game double feeds a ball, you take off the glass and remove the ball, power cycle the game and press start, does it still kick out 2 balls?

Yes, it would always kick out two balls, tried what you said in the beginning of trouble shooting.

#10535 16 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Could be opto #1 not working. That one detects a ball jam in the trough. If it’s on all the time it would cause a double kick out.

Thanks for the tip, appreciated.

#10536 14 days ago

Anyone used the SMALL borg cube from lighted mods? If so how did you like it?

IMG_8728 (resized).pngIMG_8728 (resized).png
#10537 14 days ago

well, it's official..After 2 1/2 years of my STTNG sitting as a project, it's up and running..installed pin2DMD and pinball pro speakers w/ a pinsound + board with a killer new mix. After getting it solid, I waxed on/off and wow, it truly is a survivor.. HUGE SHOUT OUT TO Phoerber for coming down to my house to repin the opto connectors and pin2dmd, LX-8, and sending this maching 'out of space dock'..he inspired me to keep going with its' resurrection.. It's such a huge reward to have this join my collection as a playable machine. ENGAGE!!! EDIT..If it weren't for Pete, this wouldn't be running right now, so major gratitude! This Dude Abides!

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#10538 14 days ago
Quoted from Pwuestefeld:

Anyone used the SMALL borg cube from lighted mods? If so how did you like it?
[quoted image]

It's a quality mod. In a sea of cheap crap mods, this is not one of them.

#10539 14 days ago
Quoted from KING-HENRY:well, it's official..After 2 1/2 years of my STTNG sitting as a project, it's up and running..
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Congrats!! You have a very nice example, playfield, cabinet and stainless steel parts look great!

I will point out something looks off with your Klingon ship. The lights that mount underneath the wings are just dangling down.

#10540 14 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

Congrats!! You have a very nice example, playfield, cabinet and stainless steel parts look great!
I will point out something looks off with your Klingon ship. The lights that mount underneath the wings are just dangling down.

I’m not done or even close with that lol. I’ve got the hallmark ship there and also the romulan ship. I’m replacing the borg ship with a cube. So all of that is in the works. Art blades will also be installed soon. I even have lasers for the cannons. All in good time. Thanks for the compliments on the condition!! It really is a diamond in the rough, and well worth the wait

#10541 14 days ago

Ahh, ok awesome!!
I also have the Pinsound system and laser cannons (though my aim was probably better without them lol, but they look cool).
GI OCD and LED OCD also both must haves. With GI OCD you can enable GI dimming and it’s not just for the shields. Borg mb canon shots have a cool GI bright/dim oscillation.

#10542 14 days ago

Yeah thanks for reminding me on the LEDOCD board; had one on my previous LotR and I couldn’t imagine that pin without it.

#10543 14 days ago

hi fellow STTNG owners!

Last night, completely out of the blue, I got the infamous "Open Coin Door to use buttons" message on the DMD screen. It now happens pretty much everytime I switch on the game.

It starts with a "dong" and a message on the screen, than does it another time, and than does it some some more, and more, until it eventually goe DMD screen crazy browsing through the game menus and deleting the high scores (all except the Grand Champion one, fwiw).

Has anyone ever encountered this thing? do you know where to look for?

i've seen on forums that some people say it could be related to a battery leak but my battery pack is removed and off the CPU board and there is no sign at all of any alkaline on the board (also my STTNG got shopped and checked by a pro just a year ago).

i'm kind of puzzled since the game was running super smooth and then "dong", all of a suddent.

any help would be much appreciated - thanks guys

#10544 14 days ago
Quoted from KING-HENRY:

well, it's official..After 2 1/2 years of my STTNG sitting as a project, it's up and running..installed pin2DMD and pinball pro speakers w/ a pinsound + board with a killer new mix. After getting it solid, I waxed on/off and wow, it truly is a survivor.. HUGE SHOUT OUT TO Phoerber for coming down to my house to repin the opto connectors and pin2dmd, LX-8, and sending this maching 'out of space dock'..he inspired me to keep going with its' resurrection.. It's such a huge reward to have this join my collection as a playable machine. ENGAGE!!! EDIT..If it weren't for Pete, this wouldn't be running right now, so major gratitude! This Dude Abides!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

KING-HENRY - So happy for you bud, that is one sexy STTNG!!!

For anyone looking to colorize their DMD, I have 2 more left. Please PM if interested and I will take good care of you!

#10545 13 days ago
Quoted from Pwuestefeld:

Anyone used the SMALL borg cube from lighted mods? If so how did you like it?
[quoted image]

That actually looks like a nice mod. I haven't seen many good mods for this game. I am considering painting my original Borg ship as its yellowed quite a bit and frankly is a bit of an eye sore....

#10546 13 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

hi fellow STTNG owners!
Last night, completely out of the blue, I got the infamous "Open Coin Door to use buttons" message on the DMD screen. It now happens pretty much everytime I switch on the game.
It starts with a "dong" and a message on the screen, than does it another time, and than does it some some more, and more, until it eventually goe DMD screen crazy browsing through the game menus and deleting the high scores (all except the Grand Champion one, fwiw).
Has anyone ever encountered this thing? do you know where to look for?
i've seen on forums that some people say it could be related to a battery leak but my battery pack is removed and off the CPU board and there is no sign at all of any alkaline on the board (also my STTNG got shopped and checked by a pro just a year ago).
i'm kind of puzzled since the game was running super smooth and then "dong", all of a suddent.
any help would be much appreciated - thanks guys

Try reseating all the connectors on the board just inside the cabinet on the left side. My IJ was doing something similar and that did the trick.

Edit: ln fact my STTNG is doing this too. It goes to the menu and resets my high scores like I’m pressing the coin door buttons. So I just reseated my connectors as well. Guess we’ll find out together if that’s it or there’s something more.

#10547 13 days ago
Quoted from spidey:

Try reseating all the connectors on the board just inside the cabinet on the left side. My IJ was doing something similar and that did the trick.
Edit: ln fact my STTNG is doing this too. It goes to the menu and resets my high scores like I’m pressing the coin door buttons. So I just reseated my connectors as well. Guess we’ll find out together if that’s it or there’s something more.

many thanks for replying going to test this tonight!

#10548 12 days ago

So…

I reseated all the connectors on the board inside the cabinet, one after another, and it seemed to work for a while, like for several hours, almost a day, played a bunch of games, fine, and then boom, came back again, and back to square one.
So I went and opened up the backbox, checked, reseated all the connectors in the backbox as well, and same thing happens: “open door to press buttons” DMD messages, and then it all goes funny, it's very strange.

Now, one thing that I've figured out, that I found out, is that whenever the game seems to not throw in the message on the DMD screen, then the menu activation button doesn't work. On the opposite, when the menu activation button works from the get go, then for sure those DMD messages are going to come sooner rather than later.

Last but not least, the start button is starting to act funny, like sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't work. Never did that before this problem arose this past weekend… could it be related?

#10549 12 days ago
Quoted from ParisPinballAdct:

So…
I reseated all the connectors on the board inside the cabinet, one after another, and it seemed to work for a while, like for several hours, almost a day, played a bunch of games, fine, and then boom, came back again, and back to square one.
So I went and opened up the backbox, checked, reseated all the connectors in the backbox as well, and same thing happens: “open door to press buttons” DMD messages, and then it all goes funny, it's very strange.
Now, one thing that I've figured out, that I found out, is that whenever the game seems to not throw in the message on the DMD screen, then the menu activation button doesn't work. On the opposite, when the menu activation button works from the get go, then for sure those DMD messages are going to come sooner rather than later.
Last but not least, the start button is starting to act funny, like sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't work. Never did that before this problem arose this past weekend… could it be related?

I almost hate to ask this but is there any sign of battery leakage below the battery holder?

#10550 12 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I almost hate to ask this but is there any sign of battery leakage below the battery holder?

Even if there isn't visible damage it's probably there. Sounds like it. Seen and repaired boards with no visible damage but the traces to the ASIC socket were corroding and broken in some cases. Similar symptoms as what is being described here.

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