Anyone doing a restore on their cabinet? Decals here: http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/star-trek-the-next-generation-pinball-cabinet-decals/
Anyone doing a restore on their cabinet? Decals here: http://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/star-trek-the-next-generation-pinball-cabinet-decals/
Please explain what you mean by "back cabinet", do you mean the backbox behind the translite? My guess is that the game is doing GI (general illumination) dimming during that mode and LEDs really can't handle that well unless you use the GIOCD board. You can disable the dimming in the adjustments and see if it resolves it. This should also occur during the intro to Borg Multiball, it should also affect all the G.I., not just the backbox.
If I missed a link in the thread, apologies, but...
My Google search capability must suck. I've been unable to locate the Star Trek pingulp available anywhere. Any idea if those are still available? I saw it in a few photos here, as well as on the "cool mod" lists. My machine needs one.
Thanks!
After going through all of the posts in this forum, I think this is the right place to share a mod that I just installed for my STTNG. I was inspired after playing a Tron and seeing the "rope" lights on the ramps. This is my first real mod and I am not an engineering person at all so any recommendations for improvements would be great. My goal was to not modify the playfield and stay away from the on machine power (easy to remove mod). Hopefully someone has suggestions on how to eliminate my need for external power.
First picture is before ball is launched
IMG_4322 (resized).JPG
Second picture is during the launch
IMG_4323 (resized).JPG
Here is the adjustable timer circuit I use to have the light only on for a couple seconds while the ball is launched.
IMG_4249 (resized).JPG
I hooked up a switch to the catapult to trigger the circuit
IMG_4259 (resized).JPG
Here is the video showing the mod.
Thanks for inspiring me to share the mod.
I took advantage of the BrExit Euro and ordered a STNG Apron from Pinball-Dreams.com.
Easy to install and came with printed instructions. You have to transfer your existing rails and hardware from your old apron; but was still easy to do. I decided to wire mine into the OPTO 12V's... and I had to bump my 3A SB to 4A SB as I also have ColorDMD installed. They don't recommend the opto 12V; it was just right there by the apron and easy for me to splice into. I'll probably live to regret that decision.
Quoted from nwpinball:Is that just cosmetic or does it change gameplay?
Keeps the ball from draining out the side outlines.
Quoted from transprtr4u:Keeps the ball from draining out the side outlines.
* as much... still outlane drains, just a bit more fairly.
Though it seems to be hotly debated as some purists don't like them. I installed them, never going back; the original ones destined to live in the cabinet incase I sell to someone who wants to put them back on.
Quoted from Bobinsky:After going through all of the posts in this forum, I think this is the right place to share a mod that I just installed for my STTNG. I was inspired after playing a Tron and seeing the "rope" lights on the ramps. This is my first real mod and I am not an engineering person at all so any recommendations for improvements would be great. My goal was to not modify the playfield and stay away from the on machine power (easy to remove mod). Hopefully someone has suggestions on how to eliminate my need for external power.
First picture is before ball is launchedSecond picture is during the launch
Here is the adjustable timer circuit I use to have the light only on for a couple seconds while the ball is launched.
I hooked up a switch to the catapult to trigger the circuit
Here is the video showing the mod.
» YouTube video
Thanks for inspiring me to share the mod.
That's pretty sweet, if you can share your power requirements (I see it's powered by a 9V battery) we might be be able to help you with how to wire it into the game so the battery is not required. How many launches is the battery good for?
Quoted from nwpinball:Awesome apron. What's up with the prolonged outlanes for STTNG that Pinball Dreams sells? Is that just cosmetic or does it change gameplay?
it's a pretty subtle change. those outlanes still eat tons of balls!
Quoted from mavantix:* as much... still outlane drains, just a bit more fairly.
Though it seems to be hotly debated as some purists don't like them. I installed them, never going back; the original ones destined to live in the cabinet incase I sell to someone who wants to put them back on.
I have not installed the outlane extenders - but I did move the right outlane post to the most closed position. It's kind of under the plastic and a bitch to get at but I think it helps a lot. I would recommend trying that before you extend the outlanes.
The game is so much more enjoyable with the extended out lanes and they even have been approved by the games designer Steve Ritchy.
Another thumbs up for the outlane extensions. They are still plenty hungry with them installed, as someone said, the extensions make it feel a little more fair.
Yeah I waited until this year to put them on my game and wish I'd had done it years ago.
The biggest difference is when the ball is just slowly rolling down from the top edge of the right slingshot it actually drops into the inlane instead of infuriatingly bouncing into the outlane.
Makes the game a lot less frustrating, it's still plenty difficult.
I think I'm gonna get the extenders. I'm just about to get my second STTNG, it's been a few years since my last one. I have a container one coming in from Italy that I know I'm going to tear down and rebuild, so I'm starting to plot mods and parts. What are other people's must do mods or updates? Thanks!
Quoted from nwpinball:I think I'm gonna get the extenders. I'm just about to get my second STTNG, it's been a few years since my last one. I have a container one coming in from Italy that I know I'm going to tear down and rebuild, so I'm starting to plot mods and parts. What are other people's must do mods or updates? Thanks!
ColorDMD, LED OCD, GI OCD, paint the Borg ship, replace the other ships with Hallmark versions, laser cannons, mirror blades, translucent rubbers. That's a nice start.
Ha ha ha, that's all. I didn't do LEDs on my last one but may on this one. Favorite LED package for it?
Quoted from bobukcat:That's pretty sweet, if you can share your power requirements (I see it's powered by a 9V battery) we might be be able to help you with how to wire it into the game so the battery is not required. How many launches is the battery good for?
Thanks bobukcat, the circuit I'm using is a Velleman VM141 start-stop timer which I know is overkill. I tried building my own 555 timer circuit and could never get enough volts to the LED bulb to make it bright enough. Anyway, the circuit needs 2 power supplies, 9-12 volts for the circuit itself and then a power supply for the bulb which I am using a Coin Taker Ultra which is listed at needing 6.3 Volts. The nine volt I was using for the LED didn't seem to hurt the LED since it is not on very long. I'm sure whatever the GI runs on would work for it.
In case anyone else finds applications for it, the tubing I use is called "solid core fiber optic side glow" and you can light it up with any color bulb you can find.
Can some please post a picture of the two under playfield diverters. Need to check wiring and orientation.
My awesome tech set my the subway diverters as follows:
- The small one at rest should just touch the inside of the subway
- The larger one when fully engaged should be in the middle of the split of the subway
Since the posts were slightly deformed he had to dremel it a bit to tighten it properly.
I'll see if I can grab some Picts tonight.
Quoted from BioBa:Can some please post a picture of the two under playfield diverters. Need to check wiring and orientation.
make sure you test this alignment thoroughly before putting it all back together. The only thing that is going to matter on the alignment is the ball should pass with minimal bounce (and no hang). I like to make sure that when the coil is de-energized on the lower diverter, the plunger hits the stop BEFORE the diverter arm can hit the plastic, I like to check this gap with a piece of heavy weight paper.
Quoted from Bdkorn:VAC vs VDC question: I know the 6.3v GI sockets are AC powered. Besides them are there any other sockets or motors (esp. gun motors) that are not DC?
nope.
gun motors use unregulated 12VDC
well ... the controlled lighting is technically not DC as it's pulsed by the lamp matrix.
Quoted from Bdkorn:VAC vs VDC question: I know the 6.3v GI sockets are AC powered. Besides them are there any other sockets or motors (esp. gun motors) that are not DC?
Thanks,
- Brian
Pin_Guy is right, no AC motors on STTNG. Other pins do have AC motors.
Thanks for the info. I am thinking of putting a laser into the borg ship to "shoot" towards the flippers and powering it off of one of the lamps. It wouldn't work with AC power.
Quoted from Pin_Guy:nope.
gun motors use unregulated 12VDC
well ... the controlled lighting is technically not DC as it's pulsed by the lamp matrix.
I don't think you'd see anything but a dot on your apron if you leaned over the machine
You don't really see the beam unless it's going through fog or something
Quoted from BobC:I don't think you'd see anything but a dot on your apron if you leaned over the machine
You don't really see the beam unless it's going through fog or something
I have a green line laser that I think would be cool if it were shot towards the PF...
Neutral hole protector: Cliffy vs. the one Marco sells. Thoughts? Normally I'd buy a Cliffy, but I have other stuff I'm ordering from Marco and theirs looks like a better steel color.
Marco seems to carry both the Mantis and the Cliffy versions:
Mantis: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/HG-13
Cliffy: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/HG-13C
The Cliffy is better IMHO, no screws, and conceals the PF damage/wear area around the hole.
I went with the Cliffy because of no screws and it installed fairly easy and looks great. My neutral hole did have some wear that is now completely hidden. I was worried about it affecting the ball because of the lip but I have not noticed any jumps, still seems very smooth even when the ball is at a slow speed.
When I bought my game it had the Cliffy one without the holes, but it wouldn't stay in place even after trying to bend the metal to make it hold better. I felt like it would/could slide into the targets and possibly make the target switches get stuck closed, so I ended up drilling a hole in it and installing a wood screw. Now it's held in place. I didn't want to have a malfunction during a tournament it was in.
For the love of pinball, please no new STTNG owner embarrass themselves with this Ebay auction.
This is worse than the Staples box one from Argentina.
ebay.com link: WILLIAMS STAR TREK THE NEXT GENERATION PINBALL ENTERPRISE COLLECTOR LED TOPPER
If someone really needs a gold edition of the Playmates Star Trek Enterprise D toy for their machine from 1993, I am absolutely sure I have an unbroken and working used one with base in a box in my parts room somewhere. You can have it for $25 + shipping. I may even still have the certificate. You can wire it yourself if you have a little electronics flair.
Keep flipping
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:If someone really needs a gold edition of the Playmates Star Trek Enterprise D toy for their machine from 1993, I am absolutely sure I have an unbroken and working used one with base in a box in my parts room somewhere. You can have it for $25 + shipping. I may even still have the certificate. You can wire it yourself if you have a little electronics flair.
Keep flipping
I'll have it!!!
And I mean it!!!!
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:For the love of pinball, please no new STTNG owner embarrass themselves with this Ebay auction.
This is worse than the Staples box one from Argentina.
ebay.com link » Williams Star Trek The Next Generation Pinball Enterprise Collector Led Topper
If someone really needs a gold edition of the Playmates Star Trek Enterprise D toy for their machine from 1993, I am absolutely sure I have an unbroken and working used one with base in a box in my parts room somewhere. You can have it for $25 + shipping. I may even still have the certificate. You can wire it yourself if you have a little electronics flair.
Keep flipping
hahaha. it's an old toy you can get new in box for $30, except it's scuffed up and damaged and has holes drilled in the stand, for $700 ("or best offer"). nice. i guess it also come with some wires.
I beamed up just this weekend. Lots to do before this beast is at 100%. I've got battery acid damage on the CPU board, a blown diverter coil, and aux board damage that's burned out a trace on the back of the board! ... and I'm only just getting started!
This should be a fun one.
My left flipper keeps slightly moving up so that over time it is not angled correctly. I adjusted it once and really tightened it down but still in moves. It might make sense if the flipper started moving down due to the ball hitting it, but I don't see why or how it is inching upward. Would a new flipper part help? Thanks
Quoted from Farmboss:My left flipper keeps slightly moving up so that over time it is not angled correctly. I adjusted it once and really tightened it down but still in moves. It might make sense if the flipper started moving down due to the ball hitting it, but I don't see why or how it is inching upward. Would a new flipper part help? Thanks
I'd try a new flipper bat. The set screw can wear into the shaft, so even if you adjust it it can work its way back into the wear spot.
Quoted from Farmboss:My left flipper keeps slightly moving up so that over time it is not angled correctly. I adjusted it once and really tightened it down but still in moves. It might make sense if the flipper started moving down due to the ball hitting it, but I don't see why or how it is inching upward. Would a new flipper part help? Thanks
I've had similar problems in the past. Replacing the flipper bat solved it. Like the previous poster said, it's probably uneven wear on the shaft.
Hi all,
Frustrating day trying to resolve the dreaded "loads 3 balls into the shooter lane" problem on my STTNG. I rebuilt the connector to the emitter opto board and opto 1-6 register in test. Didn't see the 7th switch fire during testing (trough up). Problem persisted.
Switched out both opto trough boards for ones from another game and now neither board has its red LED lit and no opto switches register. Tried plugging in the original emitter board and now no red LED there either when it was lit after I rebuilt the connector.
Seems like I somehow lost power to both opto boards simultaneously. Are these fused?
Any advice on how to proceed is appreciated.
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