According to schematic, it is, by 12V from J5.

Running out of things to do to this machine so i get bored and start messing with things I shouldn’t. Chrome nail polish powder added to the ships.

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So you like purple

camera makes it look purple purple when it’s really white with a slight purple hue.

Bored?
* Did you get a PinSound system, with speakers and headphone station?
* Consider a LCARS Display mod and a Borg Alcove Display mod for your machine?
* Consider Professor Pinball Borg Interactive Display mod?
* Consider Mick Pinball Cannon Dome led mods?
* Consider LED OCD and GI OCD mods?

Yes to Pinsound AND speakers
Yes to clear cannon domes, to rip out and put inside the chrome covered cannons on the way
LED OCD and GI OCD on back order for Wpc
Not yet on the pinduino

Your mods are awesome but going off what you quoted me months ago.. I think it was $1500 for them.. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m sure it’s worth it and I really like sttng.. it’s my 2nd one and this one ain’t ever leaving… but I can’t justify spending that kind of money on a mod for it right now, especially when I have other machines in line to buy.

Get the pinsound shaker!

Note on the PinSound Shaker...cool idea, however the "stock" shaker events are WAY TOO MUCH. I feel they should only happen during significate moments in gameplay. Not launching the ball and nearly everything else. SO, you will need to learn PinSound Studio and customize your own, with the sound package you are using.

I would share mine with you, which is pretty good, however I haven't learned exactly how to do that yet.

I run a sub loud enough it shakes the machine plenty.

EXCELLENT! Perfect use of the PinSound output jacks....(so do I) lol

There‘s no way to copy shaker settings between sound sets. Has been requested multiple times over many years, but no response from Pinsound. Perhaps someone can hack the config file…

Have a Pinshakers.com shaker in mine for 3 years now.
Great shaker, configurable triggers for flashers or solenoids, very flexible.

Pinside shop : https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1206-pinshakers

Introduction thread of the product : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/introducing-the-pinshakers-universal-plug-amp-play-shaker-motor-kit

It's not in the config file. It's in the firmware, hence the inability to modify it.

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It's my experience that for the most part, a person uses the PinSound basic hardware configuration OR starts clean and creates events based on the gameplay capture. Using the scripting documented during gameplay, you'll decide what type of shaker event aspects you want to occur. Certainly a trial and error sort of thing.

Again, I've only created a "Shaker Profile" for my machine, removing more than half of the standard events. That way when explosions happen, or whatever, a shaker event happens. NOT when a ball is launched or drains, or just rebounds off the slings.

Mike, I'll be the first to admit I have limited experience with this. The "NEW" PinSound board seems to offer more control / features.

It‘s both. The firmware holds factory presets for many machines (I actually did the ones for SWDE for instance), but you can configure your own triggers with the same editor you use for the sounds, and that overrules the firmware settings. If you switch to a different sound set, however, it goes back to the firmware settings unless you configure your own shaker events for the 2nd sound set. There‘s no way to copy the shaker events between sound sets.

Wow, I had guessed as much however wasn't sure. Guess I am staying with the sound package I am using, which is configured with my shaker profile.
I wonder why it's not a standalone file?

For those who have the PinSound Motion Control Board:

Are you using the "Relay Control" feature for anything? and if so, what?

What is it designed to offer ?

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I have used the aux output on a Road Show. I built a topper with orange rotating beacons and was using the aux board to trigger them for certain events. It works the same as the topper with triggers based on sounds.

Very cool use. I was unaware that was possible. Currently I connected some flashers in parallel with the internal Borg Ship flashers, and mounted the actual flashers externally on top of the header. These flashers strobe the ceiling of the room, similar to lightening, during the explosions.

Does the control for it appear in PinSound Studio app? If so, does it work like a "contact closure ON / OFF" thing, or are there any attributes to the event?
I feel so like a newbie on this aspect of the software / hardware

It’s been a while. It’s a relay (ON/OFF). The way it was controllable back then (not sure if this has changed) was sound triggers that would turn on the relay for x seconds. I would have preferred a way to just turn the relay on without time limitations. Maybe it’s an option now.

Examples:

VERY NICE machine and mod work

Does anyone have a LX 8 ROM they want to sell? I am just starting my teardown and saw the announcement a little too late to grab one earlier.

Matt's Basement is one source to get you going for LX-8 Rom

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/star-trek-the-next-generation-cpu-rom-lx-7-u6-bally-williams-eprom-sttng/

I’m burning another batch of LX8 EPROMS in about a week. PM if you want one. $5 plus shipping.

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That's a fair price. Thank you.

Nice labels!!

New STTNG owner, running LX-8,sometimes on lock 2 the machine starts to look for the missing ball.
Is this a normal behavior?

Sounds like an opto problem on your left VUK.

The left VUK works fine during game (Probe, mission etc.etc)
Unless there is a second row of opto that I need to check

Any good Soul got a spare one or know where t find this gate assembly??

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If you get really stuck, I can make you one but it will take a while. You need the whole assembly? Not just the wireform, right?

Has anyone replaced those ugly gates and switches with magnetic reed switches?

the entire assembly please

Greetings, I'm new to the forum. I have a pristine STTNG machine I picked up about 10 years ago that I haven't played in a while. I have a lot to catch up on in this thread!

Question:

When I power up I hear the startup bong and the boot up is normal with no faults but the "Space the Final Frontier..." audio no longer plays. Once I press the play button all the audio seems to work normal.

Any Ideas.

50023 REV. LA-7

Attract Mode Audio is turned off in the settings

Thanks, Crap, rookie mistake....

No, worries. I have noticed the people on this thread for this game. Are super nice.

I have been on pinside around 6 months. This thread, and in general, I have found pinsiders to be super nice and super helpful. The best of people. I very much appreciate the help and nature of what others have shared with me. A very big thank you.

Any one purchase the mirrored translite from classic playfield? If so how do you like it? About to pull the trigger, but want to make sure it’s worth the scratch

It is definitely worth it.. I’ve bought every CPR backglass for all my games they make them for.

Good to know! I didn’t even know it was a thing until some one locally was selling their TNG and advertised it as a feature

EPROMs came in early, burning tonight. I still have 3 more available, PM if you want in.

I'm experiencing some unpleasantness on my Next Gen.

Yesterday: Can't start a game and I am seeing coin door open messages. The start button seems to be ignored, but tests OK in service mode switch test. The door closed switch (sw22) does not close in the service menu switch test. The physical memory protect switch itself tests fine via DMM (as does the interconnect switch above it).

History: A week ago the opto board lost power due to a brittle wire on an IDC molex connector at the WPC board. Repressed the wire and back in business. Five days ago the grip trigger stopped working. We realized we could use the flipper to select a skillshot and simply ignored it until I had some more time to dig in. Now the start button issue in which the game is ignoring the button despite it showing up in service. My guess is a broken white red wire on the row, but the rest of the row seems to be working in service.

Here's the additional problem: I cannot clear out the balls. It dumped three (into the cannon and the left return lane) but the others are stuck --probably in the subway.

Suggestions to safely lift the playfield and check for a broken wire without destroying my subway? Any other advice or tips?

Thanks!

- Acting Ensign, Weasel Crusher

Are you sure the game is set on free play? If you upgraded the eprom or changed the batteries it could have reverted to credits.

It is set to free play, unfortunately. Thanks.

Slowly lifted the playfield into a slight incline worried about the subway.

Seems just a lot of bad luck all at once:

All coils fire in test while holding down the interlock EXCEPT left popper. Hoping for a lose wire. Expecting a blown transistor. Worried about going into a higher service position with three balls in the subway

Memory protect interlock from the switch to the cabinet board has solid wiring, so the issue is likely the cabinet board ...I guess?

Grip trigger microswitch is dead according to the DMM. That's the easiest of the bunch.

Edit:

Fix should be easy. Left popper coil with a broken wire. Because the trough couldn't re-fill, the game ignores the start button (with no error...). I'm guessing there's nothing wrong with the interlock and once I get the popper fixed and the trough full, a game will start and that will weird interlock message will dissappear. Can't figure out how to clear the balls out of that popper though. They're all stacked up.

The problem is NOT with the LED OCD or GI OCD boards. In fact, when the are properly connected, they tap their power directly from the transformer in the cabinet, bypassing the power draw from the power driver board.

Note: ALL of your bulbs must be leds, in all locations or you will blow the small fuses on the OCD boards. As mentioned previously, your resetting is issues from the Power Driver Board most likely. Old burned connectors, corrosion, old electrical parts, etc. Many issues to consider. Personally, my power driver board was burned, hacked and not worthy of saving. Consider a new power driver board if your boards are in same condition

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So, I've owned a STTNG for quite a while and haven't been using her. When I got her in the early 2000's I replaced Capacitors and Power transistors, replaced all bumpers, polished the playing field and I also had to replace the sound board.

She still works like a champ and I am considering:

The Tie Back Mod
Replacement Speakers they just don't sound good.
Shaker Module.

Anyone have any suggestions as to which to do first, other mods, and recommended parts?

Thanks!

I'd do tieback first as it's nearly free if you ignore your time/labor.