Quoted from koji:There is.. but very short. Not sure if it is adjustable..
Yes. If anyone ever updates code, they should add longer ball saves for horrible players like myself. lol
Quoted from koji:There is.. but very short. Not sure if it is adjustable..
Yes. If anyone ever updates code, they should add longer ball saves for horrible players like myself. lol
Quoted from Mathazar:Not adjustable in terms of length of time, just ON or OFF. From the manual:
A.2 Feature Adjustments
#12 - Return to Duty
This is a ball saving feature. The ball is returned to the player if it is drained at the beginning of ball-in-play.
ON = The ball is returned to the player.
OFF = The ball is not returned to the player.
Ahhhhhhh
I was looking for something that said “Ball Save”. Awesome. Thank you so much.
Quoted from ingo333:It's going to be adjustable:
[quoted image]
I never really liked that extra ball percentile. Would be fun to count on one in the holodeck presuming random is going to be pretty difficult.
Quoted from Mathazar:Not adjustable in terms of length of time, just ON or OFF. From the manual:
A.2 Feature Adjustments
#12 - Return to Duty
This is a ball saving feature. The ball is returned to the player if it is drained at the beginning of ball-in-play.
ON = The ball is returned to the player.
OFF = The ball is not returned to the player.
"Don't Move" - Worf
"Here is another chance" - Troy
I think there's one more that's used for ball save I'm forgetting.
Quoted from bobukcat:"Don't Move" - Worf
"Here is another chance" - Troy
I think there's one more that's used for ball save I'm forgetting.
"Here's your ball back" - Q
Has anyone used these STTNG apron decals from Treasure Cove? Was hoping to hear if the quality is bad/good and how close the colors are to the original silver & gold, since website states "colors will not be exact."
https://www.treasurecovepinball.com/Library/decals/star-trek-tng/star-trek-tng.htm
Quoted from Mathazar:"Here's your ball back" - Q
I've never heard this one before, when does this one get triggered? When you get a 3rd return to duty or is it just random which one of the 3 you get?
Quoted from ArcadeDanger:I've never heard this one before, when does this one get triggered? When you get a 3rd return to duty or is it just random which one of the 3 you get?
Out of nearly 3 years of STTNG ownership and constant weekly (sometimes daily) play, I've only heard this a couple of times myself. I'm GUESSING that maybe if you start the Q mission very quickly at ball launch and your ball drains with RETURN TO DUTY flashing that it triggers this sound bite. I'll have to test that theory with the glass off when I get the time.
Looking for some help on my game, which has been down for a few months now. I’m having problems with the left launcher. When you turn the game on, the launcher won’t find home even though the home switch registers in test. Additionally, the launcher optos aren’t working. I’ve replaced the opto, both sides, and replaced the cannon loom. From the four solder joints on the opto pieces, I get a positive continuity test at the connector under the playfield and from the other end of the connector all the way to connections on the opto board.
Any help would be appreciated. As I’ve added games, I’ve gotten much better at repairs, but still struggle to diagnose electrical issues when the obvious solutions don’t fix the issue.
Quoted from Zitt:Opto Board?
Check for cracked solder joints on the Big resistors and on the connectors.
Will do, I was referring to the 16 opto board underneath the playfield p/n A-16998.
Quoted from frodak99:Looking for some help on my game, which has been down for a few months now. I’m having problems with the left launcher. When you turn the game on, the launcher won’t find home even though the home switch registers in test. Additionally, the launcher optos aren’t working. I’ve replaced the opto, both sides, and replaced the cannon loom. From the four solder joints on the opto pieces, I get a positive continuity test at the connector under the playfield and from the other end of the connector all the way to connections on the opto board.
Any help would be appreciated. As I’ve added games, I’ve gotten much better at repairs, but still struggle to diagnose electrical issues when the obvious solutions don’t fix the issue.
The launcher continually rotating doesn't mean it can't find home position. It can also mean it "sees" a ball in the launcher and is trying to get rid of it.
Quoted from MrMikeman:The launcher continually rotating doesn't mean it can't find home position. It can also mean it "sees" a ball in the launcher and is trying to get rid of it.
Thanks, I had thought of that. Here’s hoping the opto is the only problem.
I'd the optos for that cannon are dark, the common point of failure is the board. Probably a power connection
Quoted from frodak99:Here’s hoping the opto is the only problem.
Empty all the balls from the trough. Enter switch test (either edges or levels). Post an image of the DMD (8x8 switch matrix status). Everything in column 3 and 4 should be closed. Most of column 6 should be closed. Switch 24 should be closed.
I have for sale a pair of my enhanced laser cannon covers, (no laser’s) equipped with red oscillator’s. This is from a quick display that I had made up.
Web site pricing is currently, (cannon covers only $49.95) Oscillator kit, only lights when the cannon cover lights are on, $65.90. Total $115.85 plus $8.95 shipping.
Pinside special for this kit only, $98.95, shipped. I will also throw in, 8 shiny new screws. Please add $9.00 if you want the always on oscillator lights adapter.
Please PM me here, if interested.
Thank you,
Mick
https://www.mickspinball.com/circular-red-oscillating-led-flasher
Quoted from DumbAss:Empty all the balls from the trough. Enter switch test (either edges or levels). Post an image of the DMD (8x8 switch matrix status). Everything in column 3 and 4 should be closed. Most of column 6 should be closed. Switch 24 should be closed.
Here’s the picture, any help interpreting would be awesome.
Quoted from frodak99:Here’s the picture, any help interpreting would be awesome.
Switch 37, 38, 47 and 48 are not registering.
Since you have an unusual 2x2 failure, you should consult the 16-opto board schematic and look for paths that are common to those switches. Focus on rows 7 and 8. Probably the LM339 comparator.
Quoted from DumbAss:[quoted image]
Switch 37, 38, 47 and 48 are not registering.Differentiate between opto pairs and state detection logic.
If state detection logic then you will need to investigate electrically.
If opto pair then you will need to differentiate transmitter versus receiver. It is usually the transmitter. It is unlikely that 4 opto pairs have simultaneously failed. It is more likely that you have a 16-opto board (electrical) problem.Since you have an unusual 2x2 failure, you should consult the 16-opto board schematic and look for paths that are common to those switches. Focus on rows 7 and 8. Probably the LM339 comparator.
Thanks for this.
Quoted from spidey:Are the flippers always weak or do they get weak as the game goes on? Do the coils feel really hot when they’re weak? A common problem of weak flippers is the flipper opto boards. If they’re intermittent they cause they primary coil to fire when the flipper is up and the hold coil is supposed to be on. Primary coil gets hot and weak. The whole reason for having two coils is to not overheat the main coil.
Go into switch test and hold the flipper buttons in and see if you get flipper switches firing.
I was recently having the problem of my right flipper being intermittently weak. Sometimes very weak. I saw this thread, took out the opto board, cleaned the lenses on the optos which were very dusty, reinstalled and the flippers are stronger than they have ever been. I had already changed coil sleeves, stops, switches, etc but noticed today that both right flippers were weak at the same time which led me to the board. Thanks for these searchable forums!
Back in the club again! Yay. I’ve missed this pin. Never wanted to sell it before, but having a tree impale the roof , gotta do it sometimes. Enjoy it so much more than my former Stern Star Trek.
After a quick test, I noticed the right ball guide to flipper Eddy sensor isn’t working. The led is always on like it’s alway made (Left side works great). The adjustment screw doesn’t seem to do anything. So needs to be replaced???? Or anything else to check.
Plus after my last STTNG, I checked the voltage on my 12 volt, reading 11.98 volts on this one. Since the upper right flipper has a hard time making it up the ramp, Guess I will either rebuild the board like the video in the old post or buy a new board. At least now I’ve got the right tools for board work. Yay.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Back in the club again! Yay. I’ve missed this pin. Never wanted to sell it before, but having a tree impale the roof , gotta do it sometimes. Enjoy it so much more than my former Stern Star Trek.
After a quick test, I noticed the right ball guide to flipper Eddy sensor isn’t working. The led is always on like it’s alway made (Left side works great). The adjustment screw doesn’t seem to do anything. So needs to be replaced???? Or anything else to check.
Plus after my last STTNG, I checked the voltage on my 12 volt, reading 11.98 volts on this one. Since the upper right flipper has a hard time making it up the ramp, Guess I will either rebuild the board like the video in the old post or buy a new board. At least now I’ve got the right tools for board work. Yay.
you should have a small pot adjustment located on the board. you should be able to adjust the setting to make the led go out, however when moving the ball over the sensor on the playfield, it comes on for a moment. If that doesn't work, reflow the solder connections (carefully) on the board, try again. Make sure the tiny connections are solidly connected. If these tries don't yield successful results, there are several aftermarket ones you can get.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Plus after my last STTNG, I checked the voltage on my 12 volt, reading 11.98 volts on this one. Since the upper right flipper has a hard time making it up the ramp, Guess I will either rebuild the board like the video in the old post or buy a new board. At least now I’ve got the right tools for board work. Yay.
Flippers work off the fliptronics board and uses 50V power (you'll typically find the actual voltage is more like 70-75V). You can check the voltage at any of the flipper coil lugs, as they are always powered (when the coin door is closed).
Not sure where you read the 11.98V (possibly TP3?) but I'd assume this is the regulated 12V power in which case that is as expected.
Quoted from Manny65:Flippers work off the fliptronics board and uses 50V power (you'll typically find the actual voltage is more like 70-75V). You can check the voltage at any of the flipper coil lugs, as they are always powered (when the coin door is closed).
Not sure where you read the 11.98V (possibly TP3?) but I'd assume this is the regulated 12V power in which case that is as expected.
I think he's referring to the opto boards for the flippers...
Quoted from monkfe:I think he's referring to the opto boards for the flippers...
Yes. That is what I was referring to.
Good news, I was able adjust the pot to work correctly. The room was so dark last night, I never noticed the led to out on the board as I adjusted it. Seemed to be illuminated the whole time, guess that was the other LEDs in the game making it glow. Adjusted it and now the sensor works correctly!
Motors still see slow from what I remember. More so the right one. That’s is another thing I thought the driver board would be the issue. Watching the video kn replacing the caps and bridge rectifier, he tested 12.85 volts after replacement and the cannons moved quickly. Compared to my 11.98.
Plus, will be adding a color dmd later and want to make sure it all works well.
Working on addressing any issues now. The one thing I am wondering now is what switch activates modes in the neutral zone? Like the ferengi mode, etc. Is it the switch at the hole drop? The opto in the subway? The targets all make sounds when getting hit. This is the only mode that sometimes works, sometimes dose not. However when going to the hole to the left, all seems to register like getting promoted, etc which I assume is triggered by the opto there.
Thank you,
Quoted from jetmechinnc:Working on addressing any issues now. The one thing I am wondering now is what switch activates modes in the neutral zone? Like the ferengi mode, etc. Is it the switch at the hole drop? The opto in the subway? The targets all make sounds when getting hit. This is the only mode that sometimes works, sometimes dose not. However when going to the hole to the left, all seems to register like getting promoted, etc which I assume is triggered by the opto there.
Thank you,
Neutral zone is a dual switch trigger. Opto switch in the subway is for both command decision and neutral zone. The only difference is if you hit the neutral zone standup target switch just before the opto then it counts as neutral zone. So any ball that goes in slow and doesn’t trigger the stand up first it will count as command decision. The only thing you can do to improve is to close the gap on the standup to make it more sensitive.
My sttng is being a total asshole again… multiple balls kicking into the trough, all that stuff. So annoying. Oh well at least my biceps are huge from lifting the playfield.
Quoted from Kenz:Any new roms or pinsound mixes worth updating for on STTNG.
Pinsound mixes are distributed via their user forum: https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/category/32-star-trek-tng/. Last new one uploaded in May 2022.
Quoted from radium:My sttng is being a total asshole again… multiple balls kicking into the trough, all that stuff. So annoying. Oh well at least my biceps are huge from lifting the playfield.
Same issue recently. Replaced to through TX & RX boards with Homepin. Problem solved.
Cheers
Quoted from Mathazar:Pinsound mixes are distributed via their user forum: https://www.pinsound-community.org/index.php?/files/category/32-star-trek-tng/. Last new one uploaded in May 2022.
After testing them all, I continue to believe the "Ultimate" is the best overall sound package for Pinsound. If you've installed the Pinsound Shaker, you will likely want to use their application and create your own shaker profile based on events you think are worthy.
Enjoy
Quoted from Kenz:Any new roms or pinsound mixes worth updating for on STTNG.
LX-8 is about 2 weeks away. Look back several pages on this blog for some references. Simply put, it's going to be worth the years of wait.
All I can say on this topic. The release will be available for download and burn from International Pinball Database when available.
With 21 pages of "read me" information.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:LX-8 is about 2 weeks away. Look back several pages on this blog for some references. Simply put, it's going to be worth the years of wait.
All I can say on this topic. The release will be available for download and burn from International Pinball Database when available.
With 21 pages of "read me" information.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357
Will it work with the Silly sound roms?
I don't have this product, however it looks amazing.
Someone was previously asking about eddy boards
https://stumblorpinball.com/en-us/blogs/news/latest-product-updates-6-5-22
I don't have this product, however it looks amazing.
Someone was previously asking about eddy boards
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:After testing them all, I continue to believe the "Ultimate" is the best overall sound package for Pinsound.
I should be getting my pinsound and speakers in soon. Which Ultimate do you suggest? Seems there are three titled that. Is is from Jedimaster, Mathazar, or Pinballshark? When I had this game several years ago, I had downloaded PinballShark's version and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:LX-8 is about 2 weeks away. Look back several pages on this blog for some references. Simply put, it's going to be worth the years of wait.
All I can say on this topic. The release will be available for download and burn from International Pinball Database when available.
With 21 pages of "read me" information.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357
I do hope you/they take off the trailing zero in the scores...
Quoted from jetmechinnc:I should be getting my pinsound and speakers in soon. Which Ultimate do you suggest? Seems there are three titled that. Is is from Jedimaster, Mathazar, or Pinballshark? When I had this game several years ago, I had downloaded PinballShark's version and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Yes, Pinball Shark I believe.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:I should be getting my pinsound and speakers in soon. Which Ultimate do you suggest? Seems there are three titled that. Is is from Jedimaster, Mathazar, or Pinballshark? When I had this game several years ago, I had downloaded PinballShark's version and thoroughly enjoyed it.
I'll put a plug in there for mine, lol. In that download section for the pinsound files, I posted a link to a 20 minute video of my STTNG so you can hear my pinsound package as the game is played.
Quoted from Mathazar:I'll put a plug in there for mine, lol. In that download section for the pinsound files, I posted a link to a 20 minute video of my STTNG so you can hear my pinsound package as the game is played.
got mine and installed it today as well. Took the ultimate for now, Malthazar's is next. Gonna switch sounds every few weeks or so.
Quoted from jetmechinnc:I should be getting my pinsound and speakers in soon. Which Ultimate do you suggest? Seems there are three titled that. Is is from Jedimaster, Mathazar, or Pinballshark? When I had this game several years ago, I had downloaded PinballShark's version and thoroughly enjoyed it.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:LX-8 is about 2 weeks away. Look back several pages on this blog for some references. Simply put, it's going to be worth the years of wait.
All I can say on this topic. The release will be available for download and burn from International Pinball Database when available.
With 21 pages of "read me" information.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357
Will we just need 1 x 27c040 EPROM for this?
Quoted from mappy24:Will we just need 1 x 27c040 EPROM for this?
Yes. Just the CPU rom.
Quoted from Mathazar:I'll put a plug in there for mine
I just finished the install of my new Flipper Fidelity speakers and pinsound board plus. Installed the ultimate mix first, which I enjoyed like I did a few years ago, however, when I installed Mathazar's Mix, WOW. Great music as others, but all those added/changed sound fx really impressed me and made the game feel somehow updated? This is the thing that keeps be in the hobby, cool pins and great people willing to take the time to take an epic game and push it over the top. Well done sir!
Quoted from jetmechinnc:I just finished the install of my new Flipper Fidelity speakers and pinsound board plus. Installed the ultimate mix first, which I enjoyed like I did a few years ago, however, when I installed Mathazar's Mix, WOW. Great music as others, but all those added/changed sound fx really impressed me and made the game feel somehow updated? This is the thing that keeps be in the hobby, cool pins and great people willing to take the time to take an epic game and push it over the top. Well done sir!
Ahh man. I just listened to a YouTube video. Very cool. I think this post cost me some money.....
I want to test my MPU board. I have Getaway and White Water. Can I swap the MPU boards for testing?
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