Well it just decided to work. Maybe pulling out F112 and inserting it got things working.

Thank you so much for your help! I'm learning a lot.

Thanks, going to give this a shot tonight

I like the Ultimate mix after trying all of them. Also, hopefully you will be doing a speaker upgrade as well, over what is stock in the machine.
The headphone station is also useful for changing sound packages.

Way to go!

Following up on an older post, hope someone can help.

When all balls are in the trough (not yet staged) the six standup targets register double hits corresponding to the ball trough optos - switches 51 and 61, 52 and 62, 53 and 63, 54 and 64, 55 and 65, 56 and 66. As the balls are staged into the game and the trough empties, some of the double hits go away.

The trough opto boards were replaced by the previous owner with the Pinball Haus boards, not sure if this is a contributing factor.

Anyone ever experience something similar before?

I have LEDs in my TNG but no boards. I'd like to get OCD board(s). I did this in LOTR and it turned out awesome. Last time I used Comet's boards. For TNG, is comet the recommended board? Does it make much of a difference to TNG? Would people recommend both LED OCD and GI-OCD? The backbox is pretty packed. Does anyone have pics with these boards added and how they arranged the back box?

Thanks!

I just installed both with the Comet LEDs as well. Very simple install. Love them. I didn't know there were any alternative boards other than what Comet now sells. I still have not tried programming them because I don't have PC laptop and using a Mac seems to be a pain but maybe I need to look in to that.

Edit: The instructions for the install includes pics and is exactly where I installed them. You can find them here: http://www.ledocd.com/install_wpc89_choose.html
One note on install...I covered the ground braid with electrical tape as I was afraid it may contact the underside of the board. Didn't want to take chances of shorting anything.

GI-OCD is critical if you want the shield dimming effect to work. It’s on the GI string.

I just put incandecents back in the shields a few months ago for the effect. It's neat!

Left the club today but I'll be back. Love the game but it's found a better home. I'll pick up nicer one down the road.

I did the same thing on mine.

The GI-OCD is the best solution for all things led, including the shields. Yes, old bulbs will give you the "dimming" based on shield strength. However why? Your machine with worth it for the investment of the boards..... and they are brighter, no heat and lower drain on your board resources ...
it's a mystery
Mike is correct

On my game, the both flipper buttons move the lit top lane roll over (above the pop bumpers) multipliers to the right. Is this normal code for this game? In most games I've played the left flipper would move the lit shot to the left and right to the right. Is there a way to adjust this?

Not sure what games you are used to playing but just about all of my games the lane change only moves the unlit spot to the right. Or lit spot. This is across Gottlieb, SEGA, and Williams/Bally.

Is this something simple I am overlooking?
Just noticed the 2 lamps on the GI are out. (See pics. They are at the in lanes left and right),
I've tested the lamps and they are fine.
Could anyone tell me which connector runs them.
I thought they would be on the same circuit as the lamp sockets that are parallel to them. Sorry about the poor quality of the pics.

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I am having a strange problem, the plunger on the right side cannon periodically sticks and does not retract. It takes very little force to make it spring back and it will stay stuck even with the power off so I don't think it can possibly be anything to do with the coil. I have replaced the coil sleeve and cleaned the plunger, it moves perfectly freely. I am unable to make it stick by manually pushing it and it does not even have a hint of stick when moving manually. The only thing I can think of is some residual magnetism as moving a magnet near it can cause it to release. I have disassembled, rubbed the plunger with magnets randomly to try to "erase" any magnetism and I'm not seeing it attract anything by itself. The problem is better but still happens from time to time. Video attached, I turn the power off near the end and you can see the plunger remains stuck. Shorting across the coil leads with power off also has no effect. Any idea what is causing this?

It's residual magnetism. You can put a small rubber ring in the end to stop it.
It won't extend all the way out but it doesn't need to.

Yes this is a somewhat common issue (there are several posts on this problem) and you are right, the plunger has become magnetised. Some people have used the demagnetising approach, others simply replace the plunger, while others (including myself) have used some adhesive rubber on the bracket. Given the magnetism is quite low, a thin strip of rubber (one either side the plunger shaft) is enough to stop the plunger sticking to the bracket - of course in a heavy use area the rubber might not be suitable, however I thought I'd give it a try on my home use machine and it solved the issue and has been running fine for over a year.

Awesome, thanks guys.

Where exactly would you attach this rubber? If on the plunger shaft itself, how would it fit through the coil sleeve? I haven't assembled my cannons yet, so I might as well magnet-proof them before assembly.

The issue is not the shaft of the bell armature (aka plunger) but rather the larger base on the armature. When the cannon fires, the armature is pulled through the coil until the base of the armature hits the coil bracket, normally the spring would push the armature back once power to the coil is cut however if the armature becomes magnetised then the base of the armature "sticks" to the coil bracket. You'll see where the armature base makes contact with the bracket, so I just stuck to thin strips of rubber vertically on the coil bracket either side of the shaft, such that the armature base now hits the rubber rather than the metal coil bracket. The rubber is just thick enough to stop the armature's base from "sticking" and the spring returns the armature back to it's resting position.

The red arrow points to the coil bracket where the rubber strips are applied

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Who would have thought that this plastic (pic 1) would ever break, drop into a hole and get swept up the tunnel and wedge there (pic 2).
Fortunately retrieved with a remodelled metal coat hanger and removing the top tunnel bracket.

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Aha, got it. Right where that shiny circular wear spot is from "cup" base on the armature contacting the bracket.

I just stretched the spring out a bit to make it stronger - fixed the problem on both sides of mine.

Yep that’s it

Just checking to see if others are having the same issue I am with the repro borg ship from Planetary Pinball (Borg Ship 03-8996 STTNG). I swapped it in for my old one and it does not fit at all. The original lines up fine with the three screw posts but this one is off by at least a 1/2 inch or more. I tried screwing down the rightmost screw and bending the ship to line up but it is too far off to fit. I know these are made from the original molds but just surprised they are off this much. I'm going to have a friend who has an STNNG try as well to see if it is unique to my machine but thought I'd ask the collective hive....

I bought one years ago from pinball life.
Unsure where pps gets theirs

When I disconnect the trough opto boards completely, the cannons start rotating back and forth, and won't stop until I reconnect the opto boards. Does that sound right?

On power up the game will be looking for balls, so if you've disconnected the trough it's possible that it would go into ball search mode including rotating the cannons and firing coils (if the coin door is closed). This wouldn't have been something they specifically coded for and is just my thoughts on what would potentially happen

I have one from PPS but never installed it yet. I’ll try to dig mine out and see how it fits later this week.

My speaker panel has a nasty gouge/dent right in front of the DMD and it looks awful, so I need to replace it. Has anyone here replaced theirs with the Classic Arcades part available on Ebay? Can you post a pic of your replacement? I know CA doesn't have the greatest reputation here, hoping someone can either say "yeah, here's mine, it's pretty good, you should order one" or "no, here's mine, it's awful, run away as fast as you can".

I bought HS2 and TOM speaker panels from them and they were perfect (IMO). No experience with STTNG, but wouldn’t expect them to be any different quality. Good luck.

I do understand that others have had bad experiences with classic arcades, but I’ve purchased 4 or 5 times and the transactions have all been good experiences.

I have an original and just received a brand new from PPS a few days ago. Both align to the same holes. Maybe some pics ?

Cheers

My STTNG have arrived in Menai Sydney, and is undergoing remedial service.

Permission to come aboard

Cheers,
Steve

I am looking for some help with the catapult launch ramp on my machine. The first welds connecting the bottom wire to the support post are both broken and I have not found a source for a new wireform which I gather from the manual is #12-7162. Below are the broken welds.
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Has anyone had any luck getting these rewelded? As you can see in the first photo, the support foot is twisted, perhaps a related problem. I am struggling with weak launches, the ball generally makes it to the drop target on launch but the launch ramp sits low enough that it interferes with the crossover ramp below it and the ball gets slowed by hitting the crossover ramp rails on the way by. I have tried adding a couple of washers under the connection point between the catapult ramp and the crossover ramp to try to raise it but the only solution I have come up with is to add a zip-tie to the catapult ramp to keep it above the crossover ramp. This definitely seems wrong and I don't know if the whole ramp is just distorted beyond repair or if I am missing something setup-wise.
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I'm not aware of anyone doing wireform repair.

There is a DIY section on Pinball Makers:
https://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php?title=Construction#Wireforms
for making custom wireforms which might help.

You might also see if one of the wireform makers here in pinside shops would do it for you for a fee.

Me; personally, I'd want to strip the powder coat off of the ramp (chemically); then do some spot weld repair to confirm it's fixed. Then an only then would I enlist the help of a professional to perm fix the welds on the wireform. Test final fix; then re-powder coat the ramp.

I know this isn't a new question for this thread, but what are everyones thoughts about translights? I've finally started cleaning my game up and the translight that came in the game is really scratched up. Any neat alternatives? Where are the best reproductions?

Thanks.

I'll take a look later this week when I have a chance to look more closely. thanks for checking.

Mike

Xianek does excellent work: https://xianek.eu/?l=en

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I have the same one and can confirm they are excellent!

The two diverters in the subway and the diverter at the back of the Delta Ramp - yes or no to a very thin film of Super Lube along the shaft? I would think no, but there's the metal-to-metal contact thing.

Having recently spent hours freeing up those mechs from solidified lube I would vote an enthusiastic “no”! We are probably talking years of never being touched (and being frozen out of position) but they now run perfectly when dry in my view.

Yes on lube.
Metal on metal requires lube. These mechs are no different.
Lack of service on the mechs is the reason Deleenhe had issues.

What about this?

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Light machine oil is the simplest and best lubricant for rotating shafts. At one point Williams included a "Lubrication" section in the game manual but that was omitted in games after T2.

I've been using this wherever necessary - as have many other Pinsiders - and it's been working out well, including the gun shaft on my T2. Apply & lightly wipe off so there's just a super-thin coat.
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It's there, but not very detailed:Screenshot from 2023-01-11 14-40-18 (resized).png

I've used Motorex Bike Grease for the gun shafts and the diverter in the back. Should be ok for the next 5-10 years....

I’m happy for the advice. I will add a couple of drops of SuperLube and with periodic cleaning of the ramps and subway I don’t expect these will gum up like they were.

The gummed-up divertors seem to be obligatory on a 30-year old STTNG. Mine were stuck in place also, had to use muscle to break them free of the crud and rust. I should be so lucky to have to do this a second time in 30 more years!

I'm getting balls bouncing too much out of the top subway entry where the ball launch ends if you select a freebie that involves putting the ball into the hole (such as start mission, or launch probe). Any suggestions on dampening the ricochet? Guessing the rubber or whatever is hardened over the years.