(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by freegame450
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There are 8,353 posts in this topic. You are on page 167 of 168.
#8301 24 days ago
Quoted from ray-dude:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/19#post-7092703
I recently upgraded the speakers and added speaker lights to my TNG. Fully documented at above link

This is an excellent post and very well documented. Including adding a color DMD at the same time. Thank you for the shout out as well!
I would strongly suggesting adding PINSOUND PLUS as well for the dozens of benefits it offers.

Their speaker system is very good, and it all comes as a package with great installation instructions too

#8302 24 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

This is an excellent post and very well documented. Including adding a color DMD at the same time. Thank you for the shout out as well!
I would strongly suggesting adding PINSOUND PLUS as well for the dozens of benefits it offers.
Their speaker system is very good, and it all comes as a package with great installation instructions too

I've since added a Pinsound Plus, and agree it is a must have for this pin. The full orchestral score and stereo speakers really takes the (theatrical?) presentation up several notches. Obligatory upgrade for a TNG, esp. if you're upgrading your speakers

#8303 23 days ago

My 8 driver board fried today. I thought I had fixed the problem. The board was fixed, new coil, tie back mod done.
Then while I was playing, the machine took some thinking, then the transistor on thee 8 driver and the coil associated fried.

What did I do wrong?

3FAF6994-D208-4571-A8EC-4EF250552742 (resized).jpeg

Tie back mod

F586F86E-85BD-4DD7-A6D8-36587CC0F88E (resized).jpegB9AEADCE-CDC2-4135-A259-49ECC8219268 (resized).jpeg

#8304 23 days ago
Quoted from Axl:

My 8 driver board fried today. I thought I had fixed the problem. The board was fixed, new coil, tie back mod done.
Then while I was playing, the machine took some thinking, then the transistor on thee 8 driver and the coil associated fried.
What did I do wrong?

When you say the Aux board was fixed, what did you fix? Looks like you did not replace the pre-driver (Q8). Looks original in the pic. You usually should replace both driver and pre-driver when you short a coil. The IC (74ALS576) could be damaged as well but that's a bit more involved testing with a logic probe to figure that out.

#8305 23 days ago

I tested all the transistors and pre drivers. The only one I needed to replace was the burnt one.
I have a spare board. What do I need to test before I replace it? Except the coil, that is given.

#8306 20 days ago

I had issues with my spinner not sitting correctly. I tried to bend it a little and it broke. The best replacement I could find was made for No Fear. It functions, however it also does not sit correctly. It is angled toward the player slows down an orbit shot. Any suggestions? Thanks.

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#8307 20 days ago

I got the decals on the best I could. I kept the 2 high ones farther away from the screw holes than they should be. This is to keep the screw from messing with them. They look good. Just takes a while to get them lined up and on.

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#8308 19 days ago

Do I have the tie back mod already done on this machine?

I don’t know what to look for. M
Thanks!!!

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#8309 19 days ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Do I have the tie back mod already done on this machine?
I don’t know what to look for. M
Thanks!!![quoted image]

Can't tell with that pic. You need to look at where J4-1 on the 8 driver board is powered from - if connected directly to one of J107 (pin 1-3) or J108 (pin 1-3) or J106 (pin 1,3-4) then it has the tie-back mod. Note the original tie-back wire (the thinner of the 3 violet-green wires on drop target coil in the pic) can still be connected even when the tie-back mod is in place, it just depends how the mod is done.

If in doubt, post pics of the 4 connectors mentioned

#8310 19 days ago
Quoted from Trekkie1978:

Do I have the tie back mod already done on this machine?
I don’t know what to look for. M
Thanks!!![quoted image]

Doesn’t look like it. On the coil ground lug there are three ground wires, two heavy gauge wires and one light gauge. The light gauge wire is connected to the auxiliary driver board. That is the wire that needs to be modified.

Update: what he said. ^^^^^^

#8311 19 days ago

.

#8312 19 days ago

Funny

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#8313 19 days ago
Quoted from bsanders:

I had issues with my spinner not sitting correctly. I tried to bend it a little and it broke. The best replacement I could find was made for No Fear. It functions, however it also does not sit correctly. It is angled toward the player slows down an orbit shot. Any suggestions? Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image]

Thepitchwitch has the spinner sans decal in stock - try here https://shop.thepinwitch.com/Game-Specific/Williams-75/Star-Trek--tng/Spinner-for-Star-Trek--tng.html

Cheers

#8314 19 days ago

Ask them to pack it well. I’ve ordered from this place twice and both times the item arrived badly damaged. One was a monster bash apron decal that they just stuffed in a box and it was all crumpled!

#8315 18 days ago

Hi, I am about to restore a STTNG. have hunted down most of the parts.

I can’t find a Borg ship anywhere. Does anyone know of one for sale anywhere ?

Thanks

#8316 17 days ago

Put some El Cheapo speaker lights and upgraded speakers.
Color DMD next.

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#8317 15 days ago

Made and painted some upgraded laser cannons. A few more tweaks and I'll give away the STL.

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#8318 15 days ago

Here you go folks, from the original designer of the ST:TNG Cannon Laser Kit....newly designed, and enhanced cannon cover/s to accept the proprietary laser assembly, 20 years ago and still selling.....

Mick

https://www.mickspinball.com/star-trek-tng-laser-cannons
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#8319 14 days ago
Quoted from dudah:

Made and painted some upgraded laser cannons. A few more tweaks and I'll give away the STL.
[quoted image][quoted image]

looks awesome!

#8320 12 days ago

The right cannon in battle simulation mode.
The ball does not fire directly to the cannon. Instead the cannon does a full rotation from and back to the home position. Then it loads but won't let me fire until the return journey.
I have tested the home and Mark switches and they are fine.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

#8321 12 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

The ball does not fire directly to the cannon

My start would be inspection of the optos on the VUK.

#8322 12 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

The right cannon in battle simulation mode.
The ball does not fire directly to the cannon. Instead the cannon does a full rotation from and back to the home position. Then it loads but won't let me fire until the return journey.
I have tested the home and Mark switches and they are fine.
Any suggestions would be gratefully received.

I would start by testing the optos period and of coarse take a look at the cannon looms. the actual wires inside the plastic casing can get broken over time and will start to cause errors.

#8323 9 days ago

Does anyone have a photo of the lockdown bar receiver installed in their Trek? I need to replace mine, and Marco's site shows photos of three completely different receivers for the part # that's correct according to the parts catalog, but which may not be the one originally installed on my game. Mine has the dogleg handle, the spring, and no notch on either the lower edge or the lower left corner.

#8324 9 days ago

I have had quite a few asking for a special deal, so here you have it, besides my BOJ Martian special, I have included some ST:TNG items.

The LED oscillators are included in the sale for use on ST:TNG or any playfield that has any lonely playfield inserts that you would like to highlight.

Sale starts on the 25th. of November.

Hope everyone has a great holiday, any questions or special requests, please let me know..

Thank you,

Mick

https://www.mickspinball.com/circular-red-oscillating-led-flasher

https://www.mickspinball.com/star-trek-tng-rotating-canon-lights

#8325 8 days ago

Is this protector for lower side of the Delta ramp, circled in yellow, available anywhere? Can't seem to find it on Marco, PBL, or anywhere else. The upper side is available, but not this one.

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#8326 7 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Is this protector for lower side of the Delta ramp, circled in yellow, available anywhere? Can't seem to find it on Marco, PBL, or anywhere else. The upper side is available, but not this one.
[quoted image]

It's probably from Cliffy.

#8327 7 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It's probably from Cliffy.

Already checked, Cliffy only carries Neutral Zone hole, Mission hole, and catapult protectors. Other companies carry protector for the Beta Ramp and Alpha Ramp and the upper side of the Delta Ramp, but I can't find one anywhere for the lower side. I'm guessing that the piece shown in the photo is original to the game and no one reproduces it, which is a shame because that would seem to be the side of the ramp that would get hit more often.

#8328 5 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

I would start by testing the optos period and of coarse take a look at the cannon looms. the actual wires inside the plastic casing can get broken over time and will start to cause errors.

Update. Checked optos and wiring. All ok. Problem solved. It was switch adjustment at the home switch.

#8329 5 days ago
Quoted from Thehipster:

Update. Checked optos and wiring. All ok. Problem solved. It was switch adjustment at the home switch.

Good job finding it.

#8330 5 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

I'm having some switch issues, most don't affect game play but one does. I'd like to fix them all and I expect its relatively easy, but I'll run this by the community.
- R. Bank Top 54 also activates Trough L.R.4 64
- R. Bank Middle 55 also activates Trough L.R.5 65
- R. Bank Bottom 56 also activates Trough L.R.6 66
These three are on the same switch rows so there's some relation, but they don't affect game play. The next one is the main issue.
- L. Top Bank 51 also activates Under Borg Hole 47
This means that I start missions every time I hit the top left standup target. I don't see the relation between these two switches in the switch matrix.
Coincidentally(?) all issues are related to optos.
Any help would be appreciated.

I thought this had gone away, but played a game today and the problem is back.

I don’t see anything in the switch matrix that looks like an obvious relationship between the switches and the errors

#8331 4 days ago

Does anyone have a list of LED bulb type, colors, and quantity used in a conversion that you'd be willing to share?

#8332 4 days ago
Quoted from goofy1994:

Does anyone have a list of LED bulb type, colors, and quantity used in a conversion that you'd be willing to share?

I'd be interested in this as well. I assume it would/could end up cheaper than one of the kits from Marcos or Cointaker?

#8333 4 days ago
Quoted from goofy1994:

Does anyone have a list of LED bulb type, colors, and quantity used in a conversion that you'd be willing to share?

I had bought a pre-made kit for mine. BIG mistake. Stay away from the colored crap. Purple bulbs on a dark game like STTNG are utterly useless. Stick with Cool white for all the GI you'll be fine. For the inserts I used a few color matched bulbs (blue bulbs on blue inserts etc) but really sparingly. I found that color changing bulbs are distracting and tacky but YMMV.

#8334 4 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I had bought a pre-made kit for mine. BIG mistake. Stay away from the colored crap. Purple bulbs on a dark game like STTNG are utterly useless. Stick with Cool white for all the GI you'll be fine. For the inserts I used a few color matched bulbs (blue bulbs on blue inserts etc) but really sparingly. I found that color changing bulbs are distracting and tacky but YMMV.

Agree 100%! Put cool white or warm white (more vintage feel) everywhere, use colored LEDs only for accents (e.g. I have red LEDs in my cannons). The machines weren't built for colored lightbulbs!

#8335 2 days ago

I've joined the club! Bought as not working so I am very excited about digging in and getting this guy up and running. Fair warning for my onslaught of questions...
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#8336 2 days ago

That's a purple passion!
I kinda like it.
:Ponders:

#8337 2 days ago

ColorDMD…. LED or LCD?

#8338 2 days ago
Quoted from radium:ColorDMD…. LED or LCD?

No idea but it’s huge.
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#8339 2 days ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

No idea but it’s huge.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

That is the LCD version. The LED version is smaller and the same size as the regular DMD

#8340 2 days ago

I'm partial to the LCD version. I <3 dots xl mode

#8341 2 days ago
Quoted from Deleenhe:

No idea but it’s huge.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Fyi your dmd cable is disconnected, not sure if that's intentional. I see it sitting in the backbox

#8342 2 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm partial to the LCD version. I <3 dots xl mode

same, 4 color dmd lcd at home, and all with dot xl!

#8343 2 days ago
Quoted from radium:

ColorDMD…. LED or LCD?

I’m a fan of the LED.

#8344 2 days ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Fyi your dmd cable is disconnected, not sure if that's intentional. I see it sitting in the backbox

Everything is disconnected. The seller removed the backbox and unplugged everything. It will force me to label everything and figure it all out.

#8345 2 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm partial to the LCD version. I <3 dots xl mode

Anyone with an LED ColorDMD that wants to trade for a LCD ColorDMD, let me know (I have one rogue LCD ColorDMD in my line up, but prefer the LED on these older games)

#8346 2 days ago

Guess I’ll try LED, glad I asked, thanks!

#8347 2 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Guess I’ll try LED, glad I asked, thanks!

Simple install. I think it looks great.

#8348 22 hours ago

Can anyone point me to some photos of organized back box wire harness routing? I am reconnecting all mine and it looks like a dog’s breakfast. Any strategies on how to do it in an organized fashion for someone who has never had to do it from scratch? I have labelled all of the connectors for a start. Thanks.

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#8349 7 hours ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

I thought this had gone away, but played a game today and the problem is back.
I don’t see anything in the switch matrix that looks like an obvious relationship between the switches and the errors

If I remove all of the balls and test the switches everything works fine. When I put the balls back in the trough (before the game loads them into the subway) the error comes back.

#8350 7 hours ago

Painted the Borg

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