(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

9 years ago


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#7801 70 days ago

The lamp mystery continues. My column 3 is out. If I pull the connector and use a wire to connect the molex to a different pin just to send a signal to those lamps, then it lights up the multipliers but NOT the top lanes. Tried plugging it into both J137 and J138, but neither turns on the lamps. They sometimes work very briefly or dimly, so I'm assuming its a loose connection somewhere, but then doing the above test, the multiplier lights are full power whereas the top lanes are absolutely nothing.

The bulbs work, as tested in another working socket.

I am really at a loss for wtf is going on.

Update after that test, so this pin is the only pin on the connector that barely registers any voltage. Does that mean I have a board issue?

Another update that maybe related? Testing single lamp in row 3 also activates the corresponding column in row 6, but the reverse is NOT true.

Another oddity: the Advance in Rank/Command Decision board in the top left. The Advance Rank is always off (bulb tests fine elsewhere) and the Command Decision is always on, even when the row connector is removed from the driver board. These happen to be on those same 3/6 rows. Coincidence?

In looking into the Advance Board, the molex looks super wonky. I assuming there should not be extra (non yellow and red) wires?

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#7802 70 days ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

New member of the STTNG club here. My machine needs a bit of work and i have a couple of questions:
- The PF supports are really bent to hell, Anybody have a set they would like to sell for less than $50 ea?
Bob

To answer my own question; Kerry at mantis has a nice set of 2 for $65:

https://mantispinball.com/product/star-trek-the-next-generation-playfield-safety-brackets/

Stainless and fit perfectly

#7803 69 days ago

koji pinmame tests looked good and now I'm running first real life tests with modified firmware:

Screenshot from 2022-06-11 14-34-15 (resized).png

pretty solid so far.... no more extra balls for sure... it's a kind of error handling... it thinks something is broken - because it has just kicked out a ball from the VUK and now there are "still" (but actually it is again) 6 balls in the subway. Then it decides to throw out all balls... now instead of this error-handling, I'm only increasing the ball count and remove the error flag... Thought about other solutions (e.g. a different VUK-Timing) but actually I do not want to change anything gameplay related...

I still have to look into a few functions... and test without the shim inside the VUK and increase the recoil again..... but this seems to work pretty well.

#7804 68 days ago

Time to fix a previous owner's hack that I should've fixed 2 years ago when I first got the machine. When I got this STTNG back in March 2020, I did the following:

- Full top-side tear down, cleaning (including ultrasonic and tumbling for metal bits), and waxing
- New balls and rubbers
- Tie Back mod
- LED conversion (both GI and Control)
- Added ColorDMD
- Added PinSound, including new speakers and stereo cable
- Re-pinned most connectors in the backbox and corrected some fairly bad wiring hack jobs

The hack job left over is in trough wiring. I left it alone because, frankly, it was working, reliable, and I wanted to play.

Now a couple of years later, I'm getting intermittent opto issues in the trough and the game loses track of how many balls are in play. It's usually Trough SW1 and Trough SW2 that are incorrect. The PCBs seem ok....I can wiggle the wires at the IDC connector and get the switches to work. Here's the ugly looking hack, with Ground and +12V soldered directly to each of the trough PCBs and not part of either connector housing:

Trough Wiring (resized).jpg

I can wiggle the flaky wires into place and keep playing, but it's time to fix this right. I'm not fan of IDC connectors and had planned on re-pinning these as Molex, but most of these wires "loop" into the IDC connector. How do I convert to the Molex type pin? Cut the loop of the wire, creating two ends, and crimp a pin onto those two ends?

#7805 67 days ago
Quoted from ingo333:

koji pinmame tests looked good and now I'm running first real life tests with modified firmware:
[quoted image]
pretty solid so far.... no more extra balls for sure... it's a kind of error handling... it thinks something is broken - because it has just kicked out a ball from the VUK and now there are "still" (but actually it is again) 6 balls in the subway. Then it decides to throw out all balls... now instead of this error-handling, I'm only increasing the ball count and remove the error flag... Thought about other solutions (e.g. a different VUK-Timing) but actually I do not want to change anything gameplay related...
I still have to look into a few functions... and test without the shim inside the VUK and increase the recoil again..... but this seems to work pretty well.

Hmm.. yeah, regardless, It seems too difficult to pull off in game as an exploit IRL... too bad.. lol

#7806 67 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Time to fix a previous owner's hack that I should've fixed 2 years ago when I first got the machine. When I got this STTNG back in March 2020, I did the following:
- Full top-side tear down, cleaning (including ultrasonic and tumbling for metal bits), and waxing
- New balls and rubbers
- Tie Back mod
- LED conversion (both GI and Control)
- Added ColorDMD
- Added PinSound, including new speakers and stereo cable
- Re-pinned most connectors in the backbox and corrected some fairly bad wiring hack jobs
The hack job left over is in trough wiring. I left it alone because, frankly, it was working, reliable, and I wanted to play.
Now a couple of years later, I'm getting intermittent opto issues in the trough and the game loses track of how many balls are in play. It's usually Trough SW1 and Trough SW2 that are incorrect. The PCBs seem ok....I can wiggle the wires at the IDC connector and get the switches to work. Here's the ugly looking hack, with Ground and +12V soldered directly to each of the trough PCBs and not part of either connector housing:
[quoted image]
I can wiggle the flaky wires into place and keep playing, but it's time to fix this right. I'm not fan of IDC connectors and had planned on re-pinning these as Molex, but most of these wires "loop" into the IDC connector. How do I convert to the Molex type pin? Cut the loop of the wire, creating two ends, and crimp a pin onto those two ends?

If crimping two 22G wires to a molex crimp terminal, depending upon the terminal/housing series some have 2 crimp terminal sizes available, so you can use a larger 18G crimp terminal to help cater for the additional wire. Of course putting 2 wires into a single crimp is not what Molex recommend or test - so the other method is to have a single wire going into the terminal and then splicing the 2 wires to that single wire behind the connector (covering the splice with heat shrink).

#7807 67 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If crimping two 22G wires to a molex crimp terminal, depending upon the terminal/housing series some have 2 crimp terminal sizes available, so you can use a larger 18G crimp terminal to help cater for the additional wire. Of course putting 2 wires into a single crimp is not what Molex recommend or test

The 0.156" pins for 18AWG are big enough to fit 2x 22AWG wires into the pin. It's best done by crimping one wire to the conductor of the pin and the other wire to the insulator of the pin. It's not ideal or recommended as you note. These pins are not big enough to fit 2x 18AWG wires.

The issue here is that the headers on these trough opto boards are 0.100" so you need 0.100" pins. These are tiny. No way 2x 22AWG wires are going to comfortably fit in the pin. That's my $0.02 (opinion).

This is not a trivial problem to solve in a straight forward manner. You will likely need to use one of the many suggestions for ways to get around this problem. There is no right or wrong as along as electrical connectivity is correct.

#7808 67 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

Those are the switch rows. It looks like you are highlighting rows 1, 5 and the key. If you are having a problem with these rows then this could be the cause but the problem you originally reported is the absence of columns 3 and 4. If I recall the last status is there is no problem with any of the rows so what you highlight seems unrelated to the problem you are trying to address. You can certainly re-pin the connector but it may not resolve your problem. If those pins are the problem you should either be seeing no switches in rows 1 and 5 registering or perhaps registering inconsistently.

So I have replaced the 16 opto board with a new one from Pindorabox and almost everything plays as it should.
The two rows of optos register in switch test.
The cannons are spinning and not registering in the game. Their optos register in switch test.
The top drop target stays down so essentially the balls do not stage as they should. I can get through a game but I cannot use 'launch probe' or the mission using the cannons.
All multiballs work.
I think it is related to the switch connectors J207 and J209.
I have an engineer coming to visit next week.

#7809 66 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

The 0.156" pins for 18AWG are big enough to fit 2x 22AWG wires into the pin. It's best done by crimping one wire to the conductor of the pin and the other wire to the insulator of the pin. It's not ideal or recommended as you note. These pins are not big enough to fit 2x 18AWG wires.
The issue here is that the headers on these trough opto boards are 0.100" so you need 0.100" pins. These are tiny. No way 2x 22AWG wires are going to comfortably fit in the pin. That's my $0.02 (opinion).
This is not a trivial problem to solve in a straight forward manner. You will likely need to use one of the many suggestions for ways to get around this problem. There is no right or wrong as along as electrical connectivity is correct.

Actually, you can (I have) used 18 gauge wire for building these. Yes, it's snug however solid. You will also find these connections used on the CPU board, bottom, flipper boards and also on the 16 opto board. I have rebuilt them all.

#7810 65 days ago

Has any invested in Rad Cals for their TNG? I'm hyper loathe to send any $$ to Mirco, but I really like the look of the side art on my GnR CE. My TNG is going to my daughter, so I'm thinking more durable side art may be the right thing for her.

(of course, if anyone has a set they're looking to sell, please drop a note)

#7811 65 days ago

Thinking about selling a nice STTNG in Md. it’s just not getting much play. Anyone interested? It would have to be a local pick up because I am not shipping it. I’ve had it for years. It has comet LEDs and flashers, Color DMD, Cliffys and mantis protectors, no broken plastics, plastic protectors, a brand-new 16 Opto board from Pindora. Has had some Board work done over the years. New ribbon cables, A bunch of new Optos, New Subway underneath. Cannon harnesses redone, Tie back mod has been done. New black legs and bolts, inside cab brackets, levelers, and cab protectors. Silly speech roms. maybe more, that’s all I can think of right now. Plays awesome, looks awesome. everything on it works 100%. If anyone is interested, send me a PM. Thank you Mike

#7812 63 days ago

Here is a small sample of the content within the "Borg Alcove Display" mod for the STTNG pinball. Taking you inside a Borg Ship. If you are wanting something multimedia and immersive for your machine, contact me. These are only built one at a time, for someone wanting a full Star Trek Experience.
Borg Ship Interior from Star Trek

The amazing animation of Gabriel Dreher is featured in the Star Trek The Next Generation pinball machine.
Little interior scene of a Borg Ship from Star Trek rendered in real time.
I strongly oriented myself on the designs of the TNG series and movies.
The other part of the Project, a character art of Locutus of Borg

00005.00_01_11_36.Still001 (resized).png00005.00_02_17_58.Still003 (resized).png
#7813 63 days ago

Here is a small sample of the content within the "Borg Alcove Display" mod for the STTNG pinball. Taking you inside a Borg Ship. If you are wanting something multimedia and immersive for your machine, contact me. These are only built one at a time, for someone wanting a full Star Trek Experience.
Borg Ship Interior from Star Trek

The amazing animation of Gabriel Dreher is featured in the Star Trek The Next Generation pinball machine.
Little interior scene of a Borg Ship from Star Trek rendered in real time.
I strongly oriented myself on the designs of the TNG series and movies.
The other part of the Project, a character art of Locutus of Borg

00005.00_01_11_36.Still001 (resized).png00005.00_02_17_58.Still003 (resized).png
#7814 63 days ago
Quoted from MikeSinMD:

Thinking about selling a nice STTNG in Md. it’s just not getting much play. Anyone interested? It would have to be a local pick up because I am not shipping it. I’ve had it for years. It has comet LEDs and flashers, Color DMD, Cliffys and mantis protectors, no broken plastics, plastic protectors, a brand-new 16 Opto board from Pindora. Has had some Board work done over the years. New ribbon cables, A bunch of new Optos, New Subway underneath. Cannon harnesses redone, Tie back mod has been done. New black legs and bolts, inside cab brackets, levelers, and cab protectors. Silly speech roms. maybe more, that’s all I can think of right now. Plays awesome, looks awesome. everything on it works 100%. If anyone is interested, send me a PM. Thank you Mike

Just list it and see what you get

#7815 63 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Just list it and see what you get

Yep. Listing it in the marketplace makes more sense than posting it for sale in the owner's club thread since we already own one...

#7816 62 days ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Yep. Listing it in the marketplace makes more sense than posting it for sale in the owner's club thread since we already own one...

Just times just having one isn't enough.

#7817 62 days ago

Hi. New to this club. Finally got my SSTNG Question. The 6 lights in the shield are from GI ? thank you

#7818 62 days ago
Quoted from Santis:

Hi. New to this club. Finally got my SSTNG Question. The 6 lights in the shield are from GI ? thank you

Yes, but not the flashers (one per inset) obviously.

#7819 61 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Yes, but not the flashers (one per inset) obviously.

Thank you

#7820 61 days ago

Hi. Please can someone post a pic of wiring from J120 and J121. Thank you.

#7821 61 days ago
Quoted from Santis:

Hi. Please can someone post a pic of wiring from J120 and J121. Thank you.

look at the pic in Pin_Guy’s post https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/76#post-5406021

#7822 61 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

look at the pic in Pin

Thank you.

#7823 61 days ago

Just did a lamp matrix test. https://imgur.com/a/XRWnCZf

Column 3 being out has been tracked to the...transistor? The black chip with the little silver legs. Ordering one soon. Lamps 81 and 82 are the right return lanes and right launcher.

The start and buy in buttons flash as expected in the test despite being disconnected? The Command Decision light stays constant lit. Based on the previous molex photo, it looks like that board got wired into the GI at some point.

#7824 61 days ago
Quoted from tectonyc:

The start and buy in buttons flash as expected in the test despite being disconnected?

The cabinet controlled lamps (eg start and buy-in) connect to J133 and J136, whereas I'm guessing your lamp test board is only connecting to J135 and J138 (which are only the PF lamps).

#7825 60 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Time to fix a previous owner's hack that I should've fixed 2 years ago when I first got the machine.

As a reminder, this previous owner's hack worked for me for a couple of years but lately I've experienced opto errors in the trough that can be corrected by wiggling wires. Between the direct-solder-to-the-board hacks and an aging IDC connector, it's time to make it right.

Took the plunge today and started with the easier of the two boards (just a few wires). I've decided to go with the method of soldering the two wires together to a new, single splice wire, cover that splice with heat shrink tubing, and crimp on .100 pins to the single wires going into new Molex connectors.

Here's what I started with:
IMG_1836 (resized).jpg

Spliced each two wire set to a single 20AWG wire, covered with heat shrink tubing, and crimped on .100 pins.
IMG_1837 (resized).jpg

Stuck the pins into a new Molex connector. I didn't have any 5 position .100 connectors in my stash, but I had plenty of 10's. I cut one down to 5.
IMG_1839 (resized).jpg

....and the connector gets plugged into the trough board for the first time in who knows how long.
IMG_1840 (resized).jpg

Fired the game up and everything works as it did before (with wiggling the wires in the IDC connector) so I haven't lost any ground. Will tackle the bigger task of doing the same repair to the IDC connector tomorrow or Thursday.

#7826 58 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

As a reminder, this previous owner's hack worked for me for a couple of years but lately I've experienced opto errors in the trough that can be corrected by wiggling wires. Between the direct-solder-to-the-board hacks and an aging IDC connector, it's time to make it right.
Took the plunge today and started with the easier of the two boards (just a few wires). I've decided to go with the method of soldering the two wires together to a new, single splice wire, cover that splice with heat shrink tubing, and crimp on .100 pins to the single wires going into new Molex connectors.
Here's what I started with:
[quoted image]
Spliced each two wire set to a single 20AWG wire, covered with heat shrink tubing, and crimped on .100 pins.
[quoted image]
Stuck the pins into a new Molex connector. I didn't have any 5 position .100 connectors in my stash, but I had plenty of 10's. I cut one down to 5.
[quoted image]
....and the connector gets plugged into the trough board for the first time in who knows how long.
[quoted image]
Fired the game up and everything works as it did before (with wiggling the wires in the IDC connector) so I haven't lost any ground. Will tackle the bigger task of doing the same repair to the IDC connector tomorrow or Thursday.

Stepping back for a second to compliment you on getting things to work. Maybe it's time to invest in some new trough opto boards....they are not expensive. The .100 connectors aren't difficult to rebuild either. I get the whole save a $ thing.....however your $10,000. machine is worth the $100 investment.

#7827 58 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Stepping back for a second to compliment you on getting things to work. Maybe it's time to invest in some new trough opto boards....they are not expensive. The .100 connectors aren't difficult to rebuild either. I get the whole save a $ thing.....however your $10,000. machine is worth the $100 investment.

Thanks, Eric. I thought about that, but with the exception of the tie-back mod I usually fall in the camp of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I need to do the connectors now for obvious reasons. Assuming the trough optos are working 100% after re-pinning and converting to Molex, I'll continue to play and enjoy the game. If/when more trough issues crop up, I'll buy new boards and swap them out (which should be an easy 10 minute process after getting rid of the hard-wired kludge where wires were soldered directly to the PCBs).

Funny thing - I do love my STTNG but I haven't played it much lately....been on a BKSoR, Meteor, and STPro kick. When I played my STTNG for the first time in a couple of months a few weeks ago, I immediately hit this trough wiring issue. Now that it's been down waiting for me to finish the re-pinning, I've been dying to play it.....and I can't yet. You always seem to want what you don't or can't have!

#7828 56 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Thanks, Eric. I thought about that, but with the exception of the tie-back mod I usually fall in the camp of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I need to do the connectors now for obvious reasons. Assuming the trough optos are working 100% after re-pinning and converting to Molex, I'll continue to play and enjoy the game. If/when more trough issues crop up, I'll buy new boards and swap them out (which should be an easy 10 minute process after getting rid of the hard-wired kludge where wires were soldered directly to the PCBs).
Funny thing - I do love my STTNG but I haven't played it much lately....been on a BKSoR, Meteor, and STPro kick. When I played my STTNG for the first time in a couple of months a few weeks ago, I immediately hit this trough wiring issue. Now that it's been down waiting for me to finish the re-pinning, I've been dying to play it.....and I can't yet. You always seem to want what you don't or can't have!

However it is broke. You should not have to solder to the boards (as seen in the photos) and it's an example of previous "hacks" and "work-arounds" to get it to work in a previous life.

Reliability is important when having a pinball machine. The ball trough boards are critical to the machine knowing it has all the balls properly staged. Here is my machine with new boards (not expensive), rebuilt connectors and the new improved "rail system". Hope this helps.

11 (resized).JPG
#7829 56 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

You should not have to solder to the boards (as seen in the photos) and it's an example of previous "hacks" and "work-arounds" to get it to work in a previous life.

Wow, thanks for the newsflash.

Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Reliability is important when having a pinball machine. The ball trough boards are critical to the machine knowing it has all the balls properly staged. Here is my machine with new boards (not expensive), rebuilt connectors and the new improved "rail system". Hope this helps.

For the last two years and 600+ games after shopping my STTNG upon acquisition, this pin has indeed been reliable. In fact, I chose not to correct this particular previous owner hack at shop time BECAUSE of that reliability and the thought that I'd address it at the point it may eventually fail. This pin was going in my basement with my other pins for home use, not being routed onsite where I'm depending on it for collecting money. Well, now I'm at that point - and my diagnosis is that the failure is due to the deterioration of a nearly 30-year old IDC connector.

Like I said in my original post, if after re-pinning the connectors my Trough #2 opto again works reliably, I'm moving on to enjoy my game. If I still experience some intermittent issues, I'll invest the $70 in some replacement boards and shipping costs from Pinball Life. Simple as that.

And BTW - I don't appreciate you using MY photos of MY machine in your Facebook group posting this morning as examples of what should be fixed. If you asked me beforehand about using my photos, I would've said "sure, I don't care". But not asking me first and making another preachy post wasn't exactly a classy move.

#7830 56 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

However it is broke. You should not have to solder to the boards (as seen in the photos) and it's an example of previous "hacks" and "work-arounds" to get it to work in a previous life.
Reliability is important when having a pinball machine. The ball trough boards are critical to the machine knowing it has all the balls properly staged. Here is my machine with new boards (not expensive), rebuilt connectors and the new improved "rail system". Hope this helps.
[quoted image]

BTW most collectors would consider extending the wire harness with same colored wires a hack as well, regardless of the soldered connection, heat shrink tubing, and zip ties. This has been mentioned before in this thread. There’s a reason all the wires are colored differently!

#7831 56 days ago

Use of a photo and post on other media is definitely a d1ck move

#7832 55 days ago

Trough board connectors re-pinned and converted to Molex. Of the 10 wires, I had the correct colors for 7 of them in my parts and materials stash. I substituted White-Red with Red-White, Gray-Yellow with Gray, and White-Violet with White out of necessity.

IMG_1871 (resized).jpg

Played a dozen games after buttoning the system back up and ran through all of the missions and all of the multiballs, including Final Frontier. Game and ball tracking is solid again, but my son and I will put on a few more dozen games this weekend to be sure. For now, no need to scrap out the Trough PCBs IMO.

IMG_1868 (resized).jpgIMG_1870 (resized).jpg
#7833 53 days ago

Folks, I just took delivery of our STTNG (awesome game!) but unfortunately the phaser handle got serious scraped up during shipment (lost about a dime sized section of paint)

I've never had to do this sort of repair before, and as a color blind guy, I know better than to attempt any color matching.

Do folks have advice on how to approach this type of repair, and ideally, a recommendation for someone that can reliably provide this kind of service?

As another quirk, the machine runs and tests clean, except for "check upper left flipper F8" failure in self test. Of course, there is no upper left flipper and manual says this switch is unused (hmmm). Is there some secret sorcery for this switch or hints for what may be causing this failure during self test?

Thanks!

#7835 53 days ago

As I recall F8 is connected to the spinner in the left orbit lane.

#7836 49 days ago

What a fantastic game. As the longest standing game in my collection I can still walk downstairs, play a game, find something new, and put up a new GC score.

20220701_063138 (resized).jpg
#7837 48 days ago

Hi everyone. I sent my ship to be painted. I think came out good. I don’t remember the brackets and how they’re installed in the playfield. I need some help please. Thank you.

image (resized).jpg
#7838 48 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

What a fantastic game. As the longest standing game in my collection I can still walk downstairs, play a game, find something new, and put up a new GC score.
[quoted image]

Damn, what a score!! I‘m positively jealous.

Did you post it on Pindigo? You‘d be #25 on the global top scores list.

#7839 47 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Damn, what a score!! I‘m positively jealous.
Did you post it on Pindigo? You‘d be #25 on the global top scores list.

My personal best set last year (5-ball setting). After several 15B+ scores I did finally switch it to 3-ball.

KVWHS (resized).jpg
#7840 47 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

My personal best set last year (5-ball setting). After several 15B+ scores I did finally switch it to 3-ball.[quoted image]

It's the lane extenders that make the biggest difficulty difference. Funny, when my friend had one, I always liked it but felt it was easy.. then when I found one, was scratching my head, wondering what in my set up was making mine so difficult.. recalling the epic long games I once had.. then I learned about the lane extenders!

Running with original lane guides IMO, this is one of the more challenging Superpins.

#7841 44 days ago

Anyone have a parts game or specifically a right cannon assembly. Rustylizard and I grabbed a project and we know it needs the top parts for sure. Not sure on the motor assembly. Any help with parts would be much appreciated

#7842 44 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Anyone have a parts game or specifically a right cannon assembly. Rustylizard and I grabbed a project and we know it needs the top parts for sure. Not sure on the motor assembly. Any help with parts would be much appreciated

Shopping list to get you started. All show as in stock.

Wire Looms
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-17067

Motor
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17562

Motor Bracket
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11799-R

Gun Plastic
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17750

Shaft
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17080

Kicker Bracket
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17083

Plate Nut
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11798

Crank Arms
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8619 (small)
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8620 (large)

#7843 44 days ago

Marco's Cannon cover is a bit expensive just for one...Mine are perfect with raised enhancements and include the dome, dome color options too..$49.95 for the pair, new screws included.

Thanks

Mick

https://www.mickspinball.com/star-trek-tng-kit-options

red domes (resized).jpg

#7844 44 days ago

Appreciate the quick response guys. Still at work and have not had a chance to unload the game yet

Will report back when we have a definitive list of what’s missing

#7845 44 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Appreciate the quick response guys. Still at work and have not had a chance to unload the game yet
Will report back when we have a definitive list of what’s missing

It is my experience with this machine that the best thing to "upgrade" or not cheap out on is the wire looms in the cannons. Even if you can get a cheap set of cannons from somewhere, so long as you are rebuilding them throw in a new set of wirelooms. If I had to choose between a color DMD or new wirelooms... I'd get the wirelooms.

#7846 44 days ago

Funny you should mention looms. Currently have an old set I’m sending into wire-bot and they should be producing them shortly (I hope). Stay tuned

https://wirebot.xyz/

#7847 44 days ago

Broken left vuk, can't seem to find the part # in the manual? For now I have epoxy'd it back together and swapped it with the right vuk (less abuse), but would like to find a new replacement.

20220704_164857 (resized).jpg
#7848 44 days ago
Quoted from Crispy77:

Broken left vuk, can't seem to find the part # in the manual? For now I have epoxy'd it back together and swapped it with the right vuk (less abuse), but would like to find a new replacement.[quoted image]

You have to buy the complete armature (A-13270), as they don't sell the top and bottom components separately.

Looks like A-17767 replaces the original A-13270

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17767
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-bell-armature-plunger-assembly-a-17767.html

#7850 43 days ago

Hi. Does anyone know the launcher micro switches numbers and where to get them? I having trouble getting the left launcher switch to correct position.

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