But that's not what is happening in the video that was provided, the chattering occurs when the drop target is down and the target remains down - it might be that the game is trying to put the target up but it doesn't go up. Check out the video at the 29s, 34s and 38s marks

Yes...Exactly. Way after the ball hits the target and moved on, the target buzzes (3) time. (within the last 10 seconds of the video it's very obvious)
For what purpose would that need to happen? The target resets properly, or drops as needed for the game play operation. But to bump the coil (3) times multiple times, and countless times during game play seems like a bug or flaw to me. Wear and tear on the machine alone should be an issue....

I have the new micro switch to swap into the target tomorrow, if needed.

If the machine was really attempting to "reset the target", wouldn't it come up further??

I am not trying to overstate the problem, just uncover what to expect on restoring this machine. Thanks for your comments in advance.

I’d be swapping the switch and making sure it’s adjusted correctly, to see if that makes any difference.

After that I’d suggest checking the voltage you are getting at the 2 coils and also verifying the resistance of each of them as well. Following that I’d check that the drop target moves up & down freely (might be worth checking the coil stop nub hasn’t come lose or is mushroomed, and the bottom of the plunger isn’t damaged)

I don’t think the game is trying to reset the target when it pulses 3 times, it’s trying to make sure the target is knocked down.

Yes if the switch is not working correctly then the game could be trying to drop the target yet the target is already down. In the video there are 2 times where there seems to be a single pulse (maybe the game then senses the target is down) and then another time towards the end of the video it pulses it 3 times.

This is a completely newly built and adjusted STTNG Drop Target assembly. Note the length of the micro switch blade and angle of the switch. If you are working on this assembly, it should work smoothly, and the micro switch closure happens (listen for it) when the target is nearly at the "bottom".
The is still some "chattering" sound, as previously mentioned, however it's been reduced 50% I would say. Personal opinion, I don't think it's normal for the machine to pulse the target 3 times....but what do I know..? It's impossible sometimes to know what normal is.

May I suggest if you haven't rebuilt your drop target assembly, why not? It vital for the machine to operate correctly.
Take it out of the machine. I put inline connector, male and female (6 conductor) (which Williams didn't do) so the assembly could be removed.

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I was at an Arcade in Nashville Tennessee today, and noticed "CX-96" Game Code their STTNG pin. What is that? Thought the most current release is LX-7

Sounds like custom code for some reason.
It is common to create a custom code when patching the roms for the LED flicker fix.
That said; there isn't really anyway to know.

Hey folks, question. In everyone's experience, is it more common for a switch to suddenly fail, or for there to be some sort of wiring issue? I ask because the switch on my Alpha Quadrant ramp has stopped registering. Happened very suddenly in between games so I am thinking it is likely the switch and nothing I messed with in all of my other repairs. This switch is buried pretty good under other things, so I figured I would ask before pulling most of the ramps out of the way to swap it out.

Spot check shows no loose wires. Switch test registers as open no matter what, even when manually thrown(I was able to get a probe back there and trigger it).

Thanks for the information
How does that work exactly? Changing the code to eliminate flickering

Pretty mixed in my experience. Could be a switch, a diode, broken wire, cracked solder joint, problem on board, etc.

One way to test without tearing the playfield apart is use a clip/diode to short the pins at the board connectors while in edge test mode and see if it registers. If it does register, the problem is downstream. I think that is switch 23? If so J209-3, J207-2

Good point on the switch actuation point. Agree, these seem to be more reliable when adjusted so they are not switching too early, not only for the mech, but just the actual switch so it is not getting hammered all the way down etc.

FWIW, there is no chatter on my drop. Initially, when I was having issues with the switch, it would tick several times etc.. but it really should not do this more than once, as it is engaged or disengaged etc.

With new power board, new mini 8 driver board, new connectors to boards, newly build drop target assembly (as previously seen on previous post)
New micro switch on drop target, and LX-7 software, still have the target chattering.
As some have stated, its possible I'm seeing a perceived problem that is not there. Again, the previously posted video shows the situation

Interesting.. I'm on LX-7, mine definitely does not have the chatter.

First ball I chose warp, ball saves a couple of times.. then second is probe to show it going straight through.

When I was having switch problems, it would pulse the coil several times.. but not the same symptom as what you have almost sounds more like brrr sound.. maybe the small coil could be adjusted?

thank you so much for your post and video on your drop target

This is a mod video on making an Enterprise topper for the STTNG Pin.
Part 1

Part 2

Pin Stadium mod for the Star Trek Pinball Experience

Weird problem. The gun trigger on my game works 100% fine in switch test, but in the game it only works 50% of the time. Any ideas?

50% of the time for every function? That trigger is used for many things. Or is it just 50% of the time for cannon launches?

Right, everything during a game, including firing the cannons, ball launch, etc. Yet in edge test, it is PERFECT every pull.

Sorry; Got distracted because I couldn't find the link on my phone:
https://emmytech.com/arcade/led_ghost_busting/index.html

Sounds like your trigger switch is fine. Physically inspect connectors to everything in the backbox, then check things under the playfield. Also note when the playfield is fully down, the support rails come close to the trigger switch mech.

All the trigger is, is a contact closure, so something physically is the issue if things only work some of the time. Bright light, take time inspecting everything. You may discover other things needing attention. Example. Trouble shooting a World Cup Soccer machine lock magnet problem, I discovered a broken opto wire and torn switch wire...neither related to the machine's magnet operation issue.

Pinball Shakers....Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?
There are multiple systems out there. Some use external power (not from the machine), some also get their control information (like Pinsound) from the sound package designed with shaker control in the program.
Certainly a small amount of vibration feedback during gameplay seems cool. However is there a lot of sound from the motor itself? Electrical interference issues?
And finally, does it cause mechanical concerns with the machine over the long term?

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I hear two or three clicks to drop the target on my machine.
I didn’t realize that was an issue.
I’ll have to check out that switch, thanks.

After everything I've done to improve my machine, having several mention the buzzing or click.click.click...rapid sound isn't normal was extremely disappointing. I recently was at 2 different arcades with a STTNG pin, however one machine was down and in both cases the sound level in the location was WAY TOO LOUD to make any determination if those machines had the issue (if it is an issue)

I have the Pinsound shaker in my STTNG. No interference, no unduly noise. The stock settings for the shaker suck though, had to create my own. When done well, the shaker really enhances gameplay. I like it, your mileage may vary.

It's my understanding, the "sound package" you download for the pinsound, would determine if / or what the Shaker System would do. Of course that's also assuming the individual who's designed the sound package even has a shaker system..

Looks like some companies are getting their trigger control information, by "listening" to the special feature and flash lamps. By installing a connector inline to those sockets on the power driver board.

Does the power for your pinsound system come from the pinball machine, or do they use an external power supply?

Do you care to share?

Anyone need unobtanium ball guide end post 02-4020? I’ve made a few sets.

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The original is on the right. The sheen is different than the original. Identical OD.

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topper mod info.

you will have to customize it yourself to run on external 5 volt power, however it is a doable thing.

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Sure!

- Shaker has a builtin firmware which holds patterns for several machines. If you add your own settings to a sound bank, those would be used isntead. The shaker effects are always triggered with sounds.
- Power comes from the machine.

I recently had the same problem. It turned out be the switch under the cannon that actuates the ability of the trigger to fire.
Mine was fitted the opposite way round. Works fine now.

Record / Replay (registered licence)
The PinSound Studio Pro allows you to record and replay a pinball game. This feature is useful for audio editor, sound pack creators and advanced users who want to make sure their sound pack “sounds” great in a game.

Enable the “Record enabled” option to record a pinball game on your machine.

Once enabled, turn on your pinball machine with the new sound pack setting saved. Play a game (as complete as possible or with the sequence you’d like to work on) and turn off the machine.

Then go to the menu “File / Import record file“. This record file will be located on your PinSound flash drive, for example: “sound-pack.psrecord”

Once imported, you can load this record in the PinSound Studio Pro. Instead of having all the sound events listed in sequence, you’ll have your complete recorded game.

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Thanks I will check that out. The problem happens at ball launch and other times too, not just the cannons, but worth a look.

Hey all, I have seen the numerous posts about the chattering I initially did a video on my machine.
Couple things to note…
The chattering as I describe it started rather abruptly after playing the pin for a few weeks, so it was out of the blue.

I have no doubt that the switch assembly played a role in the machine not being able to determine the state of the switch. I don’t know if there was a code in there that took that into account but at the end of the day replacing the switch took care of the random chattering events.

As far as the three reset attempts that’s been explained in previous posts I do agree that that still occurs when the ball is up in that area as I would expect.

The chattering I referred to not only occurred when the ball was up in that area but it would occur when the ball was down deep in the play field near the flippers. It was very random. At the end of the day with the new board that I produced as well mimicking the old original board I no longer have any transient issues like this.

-Nac

PINSOUND QUESTION for all you STTNG Pin Owners.
For those who have the PinSound System AND also use the PinSound Studio Pro application.....

Does anyone have experience with actually using the feature to RECORD the gameplay? It appears one of the tools offered in the program, is to set the program to record a live game, then review the gameplay in the Studio Pro program. The goal is to associate call outs, music and effect sounds just played in your actual game, and customize them into your own sound package.

Outcome and Issue: I was able to make the RECORD FILE, however for some reason NOT able to actually open or import it into the PinSound Studio Pro program.

Yes: I have the newest version of the program. Yes: I have the latest version of firmware. Yes: I only am using (1) Sound Package

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I have pinsound and have used the record aspect. At first it didn’t work correctly but I finally have had success consistently. I am away in Florida but I think the file location is crucial. It will have to wait till I get home.

OK folks, this is one of those, maybe I should just leave it alone issues. As I posted before, I bought new flipper opto cards for my machine. When installed they do NOT work. Nothing happens at all. I put the old ones back in and voila, I can play the machine, everything works, no issues. Honestly, the only reason I put new ones in is because everything else is new, so why not? Im now going back and forth with Marcos about returning the cards and they wanted me to verify that I am getting 12V at the plug the optos run on. To quote them directly: "12V is supplied to the opto boards from plug J904 on the fliptronic board(top left board in the head, plug J905)"

So are they asking me to check if i'm getting 12V at plug J904 or J905? Also, doesn't is stand to reason or logic that if my old optos are working, that I am getting the correct voltage?

I am new to all of this stuff, so some basic idea on how I would use my mutli-meter to check the voltage would be appreciated. Machine on? black to ground red to ??

Thanks!

Yeah, just tell them you have another part you are swapping in that works, and their part is not working. It would be best to test the voltage as well, but if you can swap in a working part that should be enough for them.

Check the wire harness and ensure pins are secured and in place.

Edit sorry just read your question more carefully. Can't go wrong with the meter really just in volt mode probe the pin labelled gnd and find the lead for power.

Yes, I appreciate your response, and again I am sorry you are going through those issues in Florida. We will also chat about your Driver Board when you get back home.

I am wondering (thinking aloud), is if the problem might have been I played more than just ONE game when doing the recording process?? The directions mention "playing a game as far (or as long) as you can". Maybe it's the issue I played more than a single game? I will have to delete the recorded file and retry the process

It looks like the flipper opto boards have the wiring screened near the connector, so yeah, with the machine on, you should be good to just probe the harness pins that match with the connector for GND with black and 12+ with Red in volt mode, and you should get somewhere around 12v. I'd assume these are always getting power so long as the machine is on.

Unlike the STERN machines, which the OPTOS are identical (same on both sides), the Williams Opto Sets are different. One is a Transmitter and One is a receiver. Typically, one of them is Blue and the other one is Green. There should be a matching set for each location.
I replaced all (16) sets in my system, with no issues at all. I will mention I replaced them one at a time. And I also keep the RECEIVER Opto on the same side as the old one. Old transmitter replaced with NEW one. Not certain that would be your issue, just a thought.

He's talking about flipper optos, not trough optos. The flipper board have the u-shaped opto pairs and the board is the same for both sides.

Support is one of the least considered aspects when purchasing products. Most products probably don't have issues that require support - i.e. IJW=it just works. This is not always true from some manufacturers but those manufacturers typically don't last long or develop bad reputations. When the product requires support this is where manufacturers and merchants often separate themselves.

• J904 is digital logic power. That is +12VR (regulated +12V and used for digital logic comparison).
• J905 is switch state input to the Fliptronic board.

The manual often contains the information that is required but most people do not read the manual. Pay close attention to the left flipper cabinet board. Specifically pins 6 and 7. There is a something subtle there.

Edit: Not all manufacturers test all their boards prior to shipping to merchants. Often the merchants has to deal with the issues. Often this is coordinated with the manufacturer. Just because the board is brand new does not necessarily mean the board works when you receive it.

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This is not relevant. The flipper cabinet opto switches are slotted optos that contain the transmitter and receiver together as a unit. They are also direct (grounded) switches and not part of the switch matrix.

RTFM!!!

My license plate from when I lived in Florida....

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Thanks for the info! FYI, Marcos is letting me return them. And I respect their effort to figure out what the actual problem is. I appreciate everyone's help on here! It's been awesome. Great community.

Hey STTNG Pinball Owners, this is the BORG ACLOVE DISPLAY Mod (version 25). I am producing this incredible enhancement for the Next Generation pinball for a very small number of machines.
With the addition of an external speaker system will allow you hear the Borg Collective and other sounds, as you battle to save humanity.
This super enhancement requires a little DIY installation. If you are seriously ready to warp your machine to the next level, please contact me. And thank you for your interest.

Extreme Pinball Mods
Eric Manuel Contact:
1 501-249-8628 Email: [email protected]

************** UPDATE ************
THE BORG ACLOVE DISPLAY Mod! This is an original, custom designed exclusive enhancement for your STTNG pinball machine.
I am going to make several of these Borg Alcove Displays for the machine owners who really want their machine to be unique, and truly fantastic. These as produced (one at a time), so they aren't "in stock". It's not a mod store front where you order them, if and when you decide you'd like one.

With the addition of an external speaker system will allow you hear the Borg Collective and other sounds, as you battle to save humanity.
This super enhancement requires a little DIY installation. If you are SERIOUS about really taking your machine to the next level, please contact me.

And thank you so much for your interest!

Answers to some previously asked questions:
* No...the screen doesn't playback YouTube videos instead of the provided media. The required formatting isn't compatible.
* No...the display doesn't "interact" with the gameplay, per say. However the sound extensively enhances the gameplay, even during non-gameplay or attract mode.
* Yes...it's high definition with clear, bright display, and a wide viewing angle.
* Yes...the display comes on when you turn the machine on.
* No... the display requires NO machine power and doesn't connect to anything in the backbox. So unlike other mods, NO blown fuses or resets.
* No...the mod isn't cheap, however you have something custom made and your STTNG machine will even more special.

* Will it help your gameplay... I have no idea, but it make the play experience fantastic!!

Extreme Pinball Mods Eric Manuel Contact: 1 501-249-8628 Email: [email protected]