Milestone achieved.
After nearly 6 years I finally got warp 9.9 today! It was one of those days the game was flipping as smooth as butter and I was effortlessly making the shots. Either way in the past I always choked after 9.7. Really cool sound effect and animation at the end as well. I want to do it again now!

Take the glass off and simulate it.... No shame on doing that unless you keep the high-score...

It seems to be a good time for max warp. I managed to get to 9.9 on Sunday for the first time (got the game 3 years now)!

I got caught in a really fun Picard Maneuver frenzy, went from warp 4 to 9.9 by perfectly consecutive shots.

That's interesting because I got my Picard Maneuver on the same game in a Borg super jackpot hit. It was cool in itself. Congrats on achieving yours!

That steals away all the fun a earning it though. I still have never done that on any game I've owed, even ones ive sold, since I may buy it back someday. Though I may have to with LOTR since there is no chance of me ever getting it's wizard mode.

Of course I know that!

What would you say if you die tomorrow and didn't experience LotR's wizard mode with your own pin? Do it just because you can, for the experience and the cheer of it, and then don't keep the hi-score, that's all I'm saying!

Nothing. I'd be dead and wouldn't care.

So it took me a while for me to get back to this, but I finally am trying to finish trouble shooting my cannon lights that wouldn't light. I followed the wires back and found a connection on the right side undone, once connected the right side works, but still not the left. The equivalent connection on the left is connected. I checked the bulb on the left, it is good.

I'm guessing that someone disconnected the right side because it is irritating to have only one side work, but not very noticeable of both don't light up. (Unless you know they should)

So where do I go from here in tracking down why the left won't light?

Check the diode?

Also the wiring harness.. .

Did I mention ... this is the only pin in my collection that I still play?

I'd say you got quite a collection and I think STtNG is your best pin.... will u sell the others?

Thank you, I also agree, STTNG is the best one. Even though the other don't get any play anymore, I like having them and not interested in selling any of them at this time.

wow!

Yep, I play 1 or 2 games on it almost every day

My STTNG has had minor repairs completed and has left dry dock to rejoin the Fleet. This pin can be a pita but it sure is sweet when its dialed in and playing admirably.

Time for another random rebuild pics ... this is for the special slingshot switches that were used in STTNG. If you are doing a rebuild an planning on tossing these switches ... DON'T DO IT!

Here is the switch still attached to the harness ... this was one of the better of the four, unfortunately I didn't take pictures of all these switches in every step of the restoration.

unobtanium_switch1_(resized).jpg

Switch Disassembled ...

unobtainium_switch2_(resized).jpg

Not the exact switch, but a similar one after straightening and tumbling...with new brass rivets of course; all the switches were tumbled together, but I only took one picture of a post tumbled switch before putting them all back together.

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Completed switch ...

unobtanium_switch3_(resized).jpg

mine has been down for a couple weeks, I used to play it every day..

Fix it...there is nothing that should keep it down that long

What's the problem?

To out newest member GPS ... Congratulations on your recent STTNG purchase!!!

No, no. Color match the inserts. And use cool white for the GI instead of warm white. It makes the game look better than brand new. Cool white light amplifies colors on the cool end of the color spectrum -- blues and purples -- and the art on this game is heavy on those colors.

With cool white GI and color-matched inserts, STTNG looks like it could have rolled off the Stern assembly line last week (well, if it weren't a wide body with a ton of toys and a subway )

Warm white is better for games with oranges, yellows, and reds in the artwork, or games you want to have a vintage feel.

(And if you want it to look even better than a modern Stern, invest in LED OCD and a GI OCD, although admittedly that's a significant investment)

Some of the inserts in this game are a real challenge to find the right LED for. The shields will need the flex head blue (its actually called something else I can't remember right now) from container and the Jackpot at the center scoop is another one that benefits from a flex head, either white or red if you are color matching.

I wouldn't put LEDs in the GI unless you get GI OCD. This game uses dimming of the GI in several modes and the flickering in of the LEDs when dimmed looks awful. Remember, the shield inserts are GI too.

If you go LED, I strongly suggest Comet Cyan flex head LEDs and flex head flashers for the shield inserts. The color is almost a perfect match.

I bought a kit from cointaker and it was spot on. I agree that colormatched inserts is the way. It makes it look amazing.

Personally, I like frosted 1SMD for colored inserts (with flex heads where appropriate), and frosted 2SMD (cool white) for the GI. Then I would add two spots on the slings to brighten up the center of the PF which is too far away from the GI to be light and is normally quite dark.

Can anyone help with a few part? Need the top screw, small washer and little metal tube sleeve, that hold in the top of the A-17313-2 flipper return guide. It's a wood type screw with rounded philips head. Checked both the manual and the William's green book. Thanks in advance!

these are the parts you are looking for...you should be able to get these from a local hardware store. FYI, the graph paper is 5mm not 1/4"

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I looked for similar parts for Firepower and was never able to find them at the normal places. I ended up making my own using aluminum tubing from the hobby shop and I beleive it was a 1 inch #4 or maybe #5 wood screw from the hardware store. Pick up the screw first and use it to choose your tubing.

Thank you both for the help, I'll have to hit up a good old fashioned hardware store.

NP! Also, take the outlane frame along to ensure your screw fits the hole in the frame and your tubing is no wider than the narrow tip of the guide.

The most important thing to keep in mind when selecting these parts is...you want to have as little play as possible when mating the sleeve and screw, too much play and the sleeve will be able to move and cause damage to your playfield.

Helping a friend. Hits start and ball does not launch. I'll get more info but I usually start thinking ball trough

Does it not load the catapult? (possible coil, wire, driver issue) or does it not launch the ball when you pull the trigger? (possible wire, trigger switch, or catapult switch)

I'm assuming the game starts, if not possible bad wire, or start switch...

...or you need to put in the required currency first

Thx I think it is not loading catapult I'll get info when he gets in front of the pin

Random picture ...

STTNG DMD Controller having a bubble bath ...

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It makes me cringe every time I wash a PCB...feels so wrong.

I just purchased a STTNG and it seems I have an issue in the upper right of the playfield. Any ideas on how best to address it?

Many thanks for any advice,

- Brian

sttng right playfield issue (resized).jpeg

...eek... I have a friend with the same issue.
AFAIK; the only option is to remove the mylar, replace the insert, apply waterslide decal, and reinstall mylar.
We haven't done his yet... may never do it given the amount of work ... and likelihood of a screw up.

Maybe someone else has a suggestion.

My right lane lens also has the light burn, but has not burned through to make the hole. So this has me concerned for what could lay ahead.

It looks to me that just the Mylar has failed. I would carefully remove and put in new Mylar.

I can't tell from the picture but is the insert broken or is just the clear chipped?

If the clear is chipped, you could remove the mylar and clean off the chipped clear. Prop up the playfield with books and such until it is level with the ground. Fill the divot with UV curable clear which is water thin and should level out nicely. Once you are happy with the level, hit it with a UV flashlight to cure and you should be good to go! If you spill or get the clear somewhere where you don't want it, simply wipe it off before you hit it with UV to cure.

Thanks all for the advice (I am new to pinball)... BTW: All the lamps have been replaced with LED's so I shouldn't get any more damage. Once the machine is delivered I will take off the mylar and see what's up. Where can I get the insert if it can't be repaired?

- Brian

If your new to pinball read the other forums of how to remove Mylar!
Could do more damage

Random STTNG pic (my way of bumping)

IMG_1752 (resized).JPG

Fixed. He reflowed pins in ball trough. Hope this helps someone in 100 years

Hi folks, does anyone have any cool instruction cards for STTNG they would like to share?

I have none at the moment, first stop was pinballcards.com but would like something more faithful to the NCC-1701D.

Cheers!