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(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,713 posts
  • 365 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Manny65
  • Topic is favorited by 223 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

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There are 4713 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 95.
#601 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

New spring is way stronger, almost too strong? It's also red. Weird.

That is weird, the only springs that should be red are the ones for the subway diverter coils.

#602 4 years ago

there is a post that connects the wire ramp in the middle (comes across the playfield) so it doesn't shake, it is like 2 inches or so long, is by the delta quadrant ramp, anyone have the exact measurements of that post? I can't find it online anywhere

#603 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

What do you use those for?

Those are to set the key pin ... the key pin is what prevents you from putting connectors where they don't belong. They are VERY important on the power board where you can blow shit up if you put them on the wrong spot, but proper keying of connectors is a good habit to get into.

If you take a close look at a circuit board header, you will see they are all missing a pin, and the circuit board has an arrow showing what pin should be missing. In the picture below, pin 3 is missing.

pasted_image_(resized).png

Now if you look at the connector, that goes on this header, you will see there is a key pin in position 3. This prevents you from putting this connector on any header that does not have pin 3 removed.

#604 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do you have a shaker in that?

I don't; I'm just not a fan of shakers.

#605 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I don't; I'm just not a fan of shakers.

do you think they affect reliability?

#606 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do you think they affect reliability?

No. I've had one in mine for 5 years with no notable problems tied to it. In fact...ah nevermind....I don't want to jinx it.

#607 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

ayfield) so it doesn't shake, it is like 2 inches or so long, is by the delta quadrant ramp, anyone have the exact measurements of that post? I can't find it online anywhere

This part is listed in the missing 16 pages of the parts manual http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Green_16-9932/index.html#/388/

But ... I'm pretty sure it's PN 02-4934 http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/star-trek-tng/star-trek-tng-ramp-hex-post.html

I have never purchased anything from ministry of pinball ... they just happen to not list it as no longer available; curious though, what happened to yours? this is a part that should never go bad.

#608 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do you think they affect reliability?

Probably not, I just don't care for them. I have two machines with shakers and have them disabled on both.

#609 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

This part is listed in the missing 16 pages of the parts manual http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Green_16-9932/index.html#/388/
But ... I'm pretty sure it's PN 02-4934 http://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/game-specific-items/williams/star-trek-tng/star-trek-tng-ramp-hex-post.html
I have never purchased anything from ministry of pinball ... they just happen to not list it as no longer available; curious though, what happened to yours? this is a part that should never go bad.

I bought it like that, maybe they lost it? I just noticed the ramp moves a bit, so I looked further into it

#610 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do you have a shaker in that?

I have one in my STTNG. Grew on me. I like it now.

#611 4 years ago

I am on the hunt for play field plastics I basically need The ones that commonly break Bay Area amusments even offers them as a set, but they are out of stock. http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-STTNG15

I have checked marco, pbl, and PPS. Where else can I look?

#612 4 years ago
Quoted from bigdaddy07:

No. I've had one in mine for 5 years with no notable problems tied to it. In fact...ah nevermind....I don't want to jinx it.

Way too funny and so true

#613 4 years ago
Quoted from DrScoops:

I have checked marco, pbl, and PPS. Where else can I look?

Try pinball Australia the dollar is worst than the Canadian dollar. Which plastics are you looking for I have doubles and triples for a lot parts for STNG!

#614 4 years ago

Well, time well spent. Spent the evening cleaning ALL the optos in the game. The catapult trough optos were gross. The qtips were black. Nice.

I am hoping this will resolve some weird unwarranted multi-ball sessions.

(optos everywhere, man)

Quoted from transprtr4u:

Which plastics are you looking for

I have this plastic that's split in half. Still usable if you need it, let me know. It's better than nothing. Part is "31-1803-10 ferengi plastic".

#615 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

I bought it like that, maybe they lost it? I just noticed the ramp moves a bit, so I looked further into it

can you post a pic of the spot you are talking about?

#616 4 years ago
Quoted from DrScoops:

I am on the hunt for play field plastics I basically need The ones that commonly break Bay Area amusments even offers them as a set, but they are out of stock. http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-STTNG15
I have checked marco, pbl, and PPS. Where else can I look?

I have some spares, some used NOS, some repro new and used. Let me know exactly what you need and I'll see what I have.

#617 4 years ago

Relatively new to the club. Quick question, on power-up, my right (not both) cannon swings out and back in. Is it supposed to do this?

#618 4 years ago

so you know some of my issues, I would like to also troubleshoot my upper flipper not working, what can I do about that? when I put it into test mode it does nothing. I have the parts for my trough coming this week to hopefully fix that issue.

#619 4 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Is it supposed to do this?

Nope. Both should do that. Go in test mode and test them.

#620 4 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Relatively new to the club. Quick question, on power-up, my right (not both) cannon swings out and back in. Is it supposed to do this?

This issue was discussed awhile back; the behavior at power-up varies from machine to machine. There isn't a definitive answer why. My TNG has the same behavior as yours (right cannon only).

#621 4 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Relatively new to the club. Quick question, on power-up, my right (not both) cannon swings out and back in. Is it supposed to do this?

If it works during gameplay, don't worry about it. Only one of my cannons ever rotates on startup and they've never malfunctioned during a game in 3 years.

#622 4 years ago
Quoted from PTHermes:

Relatively new to the club. Quick question, on power-up, my right (not both) cannon swings out and back in. Is it supposed to do this?

Yes on the right, no on the left; as others have mentioned, I wouldn't loose any sleep over it unless it doesn't work in game.

#623 4 years ago

I'm hoping to give somebody an opportunity to call me an idiot with this question.

I got replacement cannon covers from marco. They included the dome plastics with the tops but the domes done fit. What am I missing here.

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#624 4 years ago

Take the red bits out and super glue the domes in. Thats what I did.

#625 4 years ago

They don't seem to line up well and seem a bit big for the hole, was that your experience?

#626 4 years ago

Also during the tear down I have discovered that the lights on both cannons do not light. The bulbs are good and every other light passes the single light test in the test menus. Thoughts?

#627 4 years ago

My experience was the same. Domes too big for hole.
I used a Step Drill to enlarge the hole.

#628 4 years ago
#629 4 years ago

Yes. No issue with the holes if you use the steps.

#630 4 years ago

Any advice on the lights? I find it odd that it is both cannons and only both cannons.

#631 4 years ago
Quoted from DrScoops:

Any advice on the lights? I find it odd that it is both cannons and only both cannons.

Page 92 of PDF manual is the Lamp Matrix. (2-40 in paper manual)
They share the common Row 2. Are any other lamps in that row out?
If not... trace the Red/Black wire that is common to the two lamps to see where it is probably broken.

#632 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

My experience was the same. Domes too big for hole.
I used a Step Drill to enlarge the hole.

my cannons came with the domes fitted

#633 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

so I looked at the diode, it was indeed grey side to the wires, so I soldered it and flipped it, played a few games, friends came over and started playing, they didn't notice the upper flipper wasn't working, so I checked it and yep, in the tests I can't get it to work anymore. I also noticed that the wire to the upper right switch 58 was throwing an error, it is also connected via the same wire as the drop target, so I put it back, and it seemed ok, but it would keep falling off. Looking at it, it looks like when I'm putting the game back in playing position the switch is getting bashed, I don't know why. I kept putting the connector back on and then the connector prong broke off....
The upper flipper didn't change, I can't get it to work. The initial test doesn't throw a code.. I'm going to order a switch and put it in and see how I fare (any suggestions on where to go to get this?) I don't know what is going on with the upper flipper, in tests it just goes through the test and it doesn't do anything. I don't have any blown fuses

This sounds like the same problem I had.

The playfield slides and pivots on two metal pins screwed into the cabinet. The motion of rotating the playfield up eventually unscrewed the right pin from the side of the cabinet. You need to screw this pin back into the cabinet.

I only noticed it on mine because I had the game in switch test mode when I lifted the playfield, and I could hear a switch activate as the pivot pin contacted the switch. It hadn't unscrewed enough by that point to break the switch.

On your game, this may have also hit the wires on the upper right flipper causing a short and a fuse to blow on the fliptronics board, so you might want to check this out.

#634 4 years ago

You guys weren't kidding. Cleaned ALL the optos and the game now behaves better. The game feels more responsive/faster too, as far as CPU is concerned.

#635 4 years ago

Could someone please post a picture of the underside playfield left cannon for both switches and positions when the cannon is at rest after start up. I reconditioned my cannons and the left one comes to rest aiming at the middle of the playfield. I'm assuming I have a switch in the wrong position or need to rotate the cannon.

Thanks

#636 4 years ago
Quoted from rdbronko73:

Could someone please post a picture of the underside playfield left cannon for both switches and positions when the cannon is at rest after start up. I reconditioned my cannons and the left one comes to rest aiming at the middle of the playfield. I'm assuming I have a switch in the wrong position or need to rotate the cannon.
Thanks

20160609_154516_(resized).jpg

20160609_154540_(resized).jpg

#637 4 years ago

If anyone wants a better pair with domes already and properly installed, I now sell my kit/replacement cannon covers, (pair, separate from my kit) a bit cheaper for 39.95 + shipping. They are more detailed overall and I also made the rear screw holes slotted for a bit more adjustment then the originals. These are specially manufactured for my laser kit as they have a molded in slot/hole for the laser assembly...if you do not mind the extra hole.....They look great, and of course have the original (OEM) color.

Mick

http://www.mickspinball.com/parts.html

PS I can also install clear or green colored lenses.

sttngcannon2_big_(resized).jpg
sttngcannon1_big_(resized).jpg
cannon_2_(resized).jpg

#638 4 years ago

Thank you Pinballholder!

#639 4 years ago

I love my new cannon upgrades with lasers. Some people say it's cheating, but I still miss a lot of shots. This game is constant maintenance, but so much fun.

#640 4 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I love my new cannon upgrades with lasers. Some people say it's cheating, but I still miss a lot of shots. This game is constant maintenance, but so much fun.

Hey, never saw that, can u post a video?

#641 4 years ago

There are lots of videos on YouTube already, and I do not know how to load a video . I got them from mikespinball very easy to install great instructions.

3 weeks later
#642 4 years ago

Hey guys, just completely shopped my game and swapped the cannon harnesses. But now the cannon motors aren't rotating at all, anyone have a list of things I should check first to diagnose this problem? Fuses seem good, likely connectors seem good. Cannon optos, solenoids, and lights are good (though right light is very dim). Please point out something obvious that I'm missing so I can feel like an idiot for 5 minutes then fix and play my game!

#643 4 years ago
Quoted from Williestyle:

Please point out something obvious that I'm missing so I can feel like an idiot for 5 minutes then fix and play my game!

1. Power driver board J118 and or J126 is disconnected as either one of these will cause both cannons to stop working

2. Motor and or 12V DC power not plugged into motor EMI boards; these would have to both be disconnected

#644 4 years ago

J126 - that was it, I did some power board work it was pinned/hiding behind the board after reinstalling it. So glad it was something stupid and not something difficult. Thanks for the reply.

#645 4 years ago

you know the way the cannons have two switches,
home and i cant remember the other one.
i was just thinking,can you not launch the ball until the 2nd switch has registered ?
to stop people firing the ball back down the popper.

I have two sttng at the moment.(got the 2nd in a bulk buy as a dead game)
on the right cannon on one machine you cant fire the cannon for ages after it swings out.
is this the problem?

#646 4 years ago
Quoted from urbanledge:

you know the way the cannons have two switches,
home and i cant remember the other one.
i was just thinking,can you not launch the ball until the 2nd switch has registered ?
to stop people firing the ball back down the popper.
I have two sttng at the moment.(got the 2nd in a bulk buy as a dead game)
on the right cannon on one machine you cant fire the cannon for ages after it swings out.
is this the problem?

The mark switch controls the cannon fire angle. If this switch is closed, firing the cannon is inhibited. One problem you may be seeing is that the original switch was a DA3 made by Cherry. http://sigma.octopart.com/5355578/image/Cherry-DA3CB1AA.gif

Cherry stopped manufacturing this switch and the closest replacement is a DB3. I personally do not like this switch and would never use one if the the DA3 was still available as it had gold plated internal contacts and would last forever (probably why they stopped making it)

Anyway, the DB3 substitute doesn't have the same mounting positions for the actuator arm, the problem here is that by replacing just the switch and reusing the original actuator arm (this method is highly used since it's cheaper as there is very little that can damage the arm itself), is that the slight difference in angle positioning is amplified by length of the angle and turns out to be problematic in this specific application.

Fortunately this can be resolved by a slight bending of the actuator arm and re positioning the the arm to the inner (high) switch position. The bending comes into play since the DB3 has a shorter actuator button than the DA3 had so you may need to bend the arm so it doesn't hit the end of the switch housing before closing the switch.

Did I mention how much I miss the DA3 and that this switch only cost $0.02 more than a DB3?

Good luck

#647 4 years ago

Random before & after pic from the restoration ...

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IMG_1331_(resized).JPG

#648 4 years ago

Pin guy: what do you treat the metal brackets with when you have cleaned them up? And what do you use to clean them?

Axl

#649 4 years ago

The metal brackets were ran through a parts tumbler for 5 days ... but, they were too pitted from corrosion for this restoration, so they were replaced with new.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-12383
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-17548

The borg bracket, coils brackets and standoffs were all sanded smooth and painted; any area the ball contacts were then covered with mylar to prevent the ball from wearing the painted surfaces.

#650 4 years ago

Random Restoration Pic #2 ... the drop target assembly.

829_(resized).JPG

Ignore the L/R slingdhot brackets ... they were in the wrong parts bag.

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