You've been messaged!

EDIT - Can't use it. Seems to be the Hallmark ornament which is not compatible with LED-OCD boards (from what I've read).

I'll look tonight. I am almost finished restoring my rescue STTNG and may have some stuff available.

This one works with LED-OCD...its the klingon boards that don't work with the OCD.

Thank you!

That assumption is incorrect.
You have to know how the new ship was constructed.
I can tell you with fair certainty; a "stock" Romulan Hallmark ship WILL NOT last long in an OCD system.
If the incandescent were swapped for LED; it might be ok for longer. Really depends on the LED dropping resistor.
So; please don't give bad advice unless you built the ship.

Fitted my XL HD pin2dmd screen and custom speaker panel yesterday, looks amazing in the flesh. Video does not do it justice unfortunately.
I fitted a 12v 10amp power supply to run it, needs about 5amp.
Thanks to stumblor who sells the kits and slippifishi for the colourisation.
Action from about 5:45 on.

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That is amazing. We contact Stumbler for the DMD and customer speaker panel and slippifishi for the color coding?

Minor typo, it is actually stumblor for the displays. The colour files are available on VPUniverse (https://vpuniverse.com/forums/files/file/5517-star-trek-the-next-generation-real-pin/) or if you drop me a message I can send them through.

Oh crap it is, oops. Yes stumblor.

Sorry it’s stumblor.

Hi everyone just curious if anyone has seen these? Running the display test on my machine cause I had some funky lines. I recently replaced, well, everything in the backbox basically. I am getting the pager error on both test 1 and test 2, so the B(1) and B(2). Both show the 8 with lines and 7. The RAM DATE ERROR one is annoying since I replaced my CPU board with a PINTEK that has NVRAM and never touched it. The EPROM is new as well.

Also, as far the the lights in the backbox go, are they supposed to be on? I have one or two that illuminate, and all of the flashers work, but the others stay off no matter what test I run. Bad sockets? The bulbs all look fine. Something I can test with a meter?

Thanks for all the help folks!

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Mechanical / Electrical overview 11-24-21
Much has changed/improved during the year long restoration.

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If your ribbon cables (all of them) have not been replaced, I suggest doing so. Also, as with any machine. inch by inch go around every board, check for the connectors to be properly aligned with the pins, and check for heat damage. All of this of course is with the machine OFF. Check everything and reseat every connector. Most problems don't "require" a board replacement, which I see you've done, however sad tech service, heat, and damage usually are the cause of most things.

That is coming up under display test? What about the DMD controller board? I’ve repaired several where the 8K SRAM chip failed. In the picture it looks like you may have the LCD ColorDMD installed. I’ve never used one of those but possibly an issue with that?

What happened to all the original boards? Those can usually all be rebuilt. I’m running all original boards in my machines. Exception is the opto boards for the trough. Aftermarket boards are an improvement there.

Pinball-Mods.com is having a site-wide Black Friday / Cyber Monday sale.

More details in the Black Friday thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/2021-pinside-black-friday-sales-summary/page/3#post-6624924

However, I will state that the Nycon VUK decals are 10% off and our STNG PopCaps are covered in the 15% off discount code.

Hi all,
I am chasing a weird problem with the lock popup/drop down. In order to troubleshoot it I need to understand when the post should be raised, what causes it to raise for a playfield perspective and what makes it drop.
I am not asking about the electrical mechanical aspect but the logic.
For instants on the first ball of a new game I have observed the lock bar down if I fire the ball in warp four mode as it’s being fired the drop-down target pops up blocking access to dropping down into the subway.

1) Is that correct logic?

When the ball hits that raised target it bounces back toward the three lanes.
2)Does the drop target drop because the ball impacts it?

3)If it does drop does the machine pop it back up or does it leave it down?

The reason I’m asking for the logic is I am getting times when it’s down, making a chattering or light grinding sound trying to pop up. Sometimes it does pop up and sometimes it doesn’t but I can’t find anything binding the solenoid underneath. I’m going to attempt to make a video of it while I play a game.

At 43 seconds in the video it chatters and partially moves up 3 times in rapid succession. Is this normal? It happens prior to :43 secs but chatters only 1 time in the two occurances prior. Help if you have any input or ideas.

That's sounds like a bad soldering job.
IE the relay is activating... but an intermittent soldering contact is making/breaking the connection.
I'd try to put a flashlight and the camera under the PF on that assembly to see what it might be doing.

The game can raise and lower the drop target itself depending upon the gameplay; and a hit from the ball will knock the gate down (if it is in the up position). So if when launching the ball you choose "Warp Factor" the game will raise the target (if not already raised) whereas all other options it'll drop the target (if not already down) such that the launched ball will go into the top subway hole.

So in answer to you questions when choosing "Warp Factor"
1. Correct - it'll raise the drop target on launching the ball
2. Correct - if the launched ball hits the raised drop target it will go down
3. In this case the game will leave the drop target down - on some machines the ball can bounce off the top of the rollover lanes and back into lock however the intention is that the ball will fall into the pops.

The drop target switch and actuator arm can cause issues requiring it to be adjusted, but I've not heard a noise like that previously - can you recreate the issue/noise in solenoid test mode?

Edit: Fixed the typo it should have said I've "not" heard a noised like that previously

I'm trying to finish up a restore and the cannons are holding me up. The game says both launchers can not find home. I've tried all I know but no go. They won't budge. I put external voltage to the motors and they work. All of the backbox boards are verified good. Any ideas would be appreciated.

In test mode the solenoid fires without issue and no weird chattering. The drop down induction also
Lowers the target without issue. This only happens in game play AND it can chatter when the ball is no where near the target hit in time or proximity. I have heard it when the ball is in the middle of the table. Weird is this just started yesterday.

Are you saying the cannons don't move? Or do the cannons swing out and back but the "home" switch is not being triggered?

Have you done the tie back mod?
I'm concerned you have a intermittent connection which is becoming worse since "just started yesterday"
This could be the beginning of a really bad tie back failure. This screams bad connection to me.

Tieback done two weeks ago in the backbox. I got to thinking about this. Is it possible, the switch on that assembly is being affected by a bad diode upstream or downstream. I tested the switch that confirms the pop up is raised. I adjusted it by making it report "up" when the plastic arm travels more vertical than before but that didn't help. Today I will adjust it the other direction but to me that seems it will make it worse.

So then I wondered if the solenoid chattering is due to momentary voltage leaking into the switch circuit, interpreted by the cpu scan of the matrix and it reacts accordingly.

i agree with you that due to this just starting, something bad is brewing. I will recheck the tieback mod, the tieback under the playfield is totally removed, so the one in the backbox must be working or I would have blown a tip102 or burned a coil i think by now I think.

On a previous post, I posted a link to the manufacture who makes a replacement speaker panel for the STTNG (and similar) machines. It's $29. The panel provides a full size opening on the right side, so an adapter plate doesn't need to be used for better speakers. In addition, the led speaker mod can also be used. I have in the past resized the hole myself, (which is a pain). The new panel even comes with the t-nuts already installed. Hope this helps someone interested in this mod.

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They won't move. Even using test mode. They will fire the launcher in test mode but won't move. I removed the motors and tested them with a 12v power supply and they work. It's like the game won't give them the voltage to move. Being novice at the electronic part, I went through the schematics and such with no luck. I also tested the home and mark switches and they are registering.

I've put this mod in mine after seeing yours. I'm so glad you shared that. It's an awesome mod, especially when it is set to light by sound. I cut my own speaker but had to bondo the mistakes. Buying a premade one is the way to go.

I apologize if this is stuff you have already thought of...

* If the wiring harnesses are bad, hidden broken wires can prevent normal operation. You could hook up a meter before the harness to see if voltage is showing up when expected.
* Is there a fuse just for the cannon motors? I honestly don't know offhand but it would be on my checklist. (And if it looks good, pull it and test with a meter anyway.)
* Have you found the transistors for the motors and inspected them? It would be weird for both to have failed, and failed closed at that, but...
* There's a master setting for the cannons being disabled. I would not expect that to kill them in test mode too, but I'd check it out.
* Don't assume everything is hooked up right, maybe someone pooched that game before you got it. Find photos of the wiring harness and any relevant backbox connectors and make sure things are correct.

I look forward to the eventual solution!

Here is the link to the restoration documentation. I'm going to try to update it this weekend.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amateur-sttng-restore-a-7-year-journey

"in theory" the switch matrix should be resistant to any "chatter" on the actual switch.
IIRC; the switch matrix is sampled once a cycle which occurs after each zero cross. So any "bouncy" switches wouldn't necessarily cause chatter like that. This means each "row" is sampled at each column every 1/120 seconds for USA 60 Hz power line. I wouldn't think this would cause chatter like what we are hearing.

Bad Crimp on the Tieback mod? disconnected diode or cap?

Firstly check that you have 12v being supplied to the motor EMI boards - you could have a bad connection on J118

Alternatively do you have mods on your machine that are tapped into the 12v power? If so try disconnecting those and seeing if the problem persists

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Good info on the scan rate. I agree, too fast to cause that effect. I will triple check the tieback mod. Which caps? where? Which diode? on the popup switch itself or elsewhere?

This is hard to say "this is exactly when it happens. I readjusted the switch, no change, but while testing it, I can duplicate it almost everytime a ball is shot up the beta ramp, weird...Trying to see if there is a connection. ugh!

honestly not sure. you'd have to look at the schematics.
There should be a cap across that switch either physically or across the row / column some where. I'd been ages since I looked closedly at the STNG schematics so I'm going by memory and could have confused it with a different game.

Diode is same story. There is a diode at that switch somewhere.

Is the beta ramp near the aux solenoid board? Could vibration be transferring from the ramp to the solenoid board causing a bad solder joint to vibrate?

Thinking out loud; cause I really don't have first hand experience with the problem you're having.

It looks like you’re using the spike 2 speaker light kit — where did you tie into power on Sttng for that speaker kit?

Avoid tying in anything on the machine.... The speaker led kit comes with it's own power supply. It's best to have your service outlet (inside the machine) converted to switched on (instead of always one) OR better, use an external power strip to turn your machine on.
In that way, converters and power adapters can run on a power strip internal to the machine.

Again, everyone, avoid connecting mods to your system. No reason to do it.

Wired a 12v 10amp power supply to the incoming switch wires in the metal box, just stripped them back a bit and soldered on them taped up.
Hard wired no service outlet as it was just blanked off so put the cable through the blanking plate.

Only used for the XL pin2dmd display but someone else can add mods in the future if they like easily.
Was going to add LED’s underneath/behind the cab but fitted them around the door of my pin room instead.
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Here is the LINK again to the replacement speaker panel.
https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=114&zenid=kkl8lkn1b5lpml1renknoolf73

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ordered last night, thanks

I figured it out. I was relying on the switch matrix testing to tell me the switch was working fine. Unfortunately, actuating the switch registered a change in state but the state was changing so fast and repeatedly, the display wasn't in keepimg up.

Your comment about vibration and my observations made me decide to take the switch off and test it and the diode. Diode was fine. Switch WAS NOT FINE. it was all over the place unless you were really pressing hard on it in a closed state. See the video attached. I think the CPU was overloaded with the constant changing state. This was causing other switches to act weird not being captured by the CPU. Just my opinion, but as the switch got worse more issues popped up with the game and other switches not registering or registering when not possible. I replaced this NEW switch with an old switch and all is back to normal.

If you haven't yet replaced the cannon wire looms, you should. They almost always break inside somewhere over the years.
You can get them in a set of 2

If anyone is looking to get one of my Deluxe 5.25" SPIKE 2 Speaker Light Kits (Type 13) for another type of game and you want a standard 2 blade US plug instead of the Bill Validator type plug they normally have (to connect to the SPIKE 2 games)........feel free to contact me before ordering and I can send you a 2 blade power cable with your light kit.

Though, installing them in any game that is not a Stern SPIKE 2 with 5.25" speakers is considered DIY as far as I am concerned.

Doug (SpeakerLightKits.com)

Where did you buy these looms? Is there somewhere in the US to get them? Thanks!

Yes, under the display test. The DMD controller board is new, as is the ColorDMD, but the problem existed prior to its install. The original boards are in a box waiting for me to decide what to do with them. They will likely be sold to whomever wants to mess with them. The CPU board that started all of this was completely fried.

I am, SLOWLY, working my way through all of the connections, had to replace a few already due to scorching.

All ribbon cables replaced. Other connections are being gone over now. Thanks!

Good deal on getting a ribbon cable set. Take your time and be sure to put the RED STRIPE on PIN 1, throughout the install. If you are going to be removing any of the boards, I am certainly you will be labeling each socket. That said, when you get the boards out, reflow the connections carefully. Also with a small wire brush and with care, polish up the pins as best you can. Certainly the ones where the power connections are.

It's also worthwhile to carefully push down on the socketed chips, to make sure the are completely seated. Finally, this is also a perfect time to inspect plug housings for burns and to make sure the punch down wires are all seated.

A punch down tool can be found on Marco for the .156 connectors. This will reseat the wires. I did this, however months later would rebuild all the connectors (previous post on here). good luck

Marco has them but they're pretty expensive https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/H-17067
Might be cheaper to buy them from OS https://www.pinballshop.nl/parts-by-game/star-trek-the-next-generation/star-trek-the-next-generation-williams-sttng-cannon-cable/?sl=en

Man, Marco's prices have gone Insane...I think i purchased those a year ago for 50 bucks...

ask and answered

Thanks - I thought the same thing when I saw Marco's price! I went ahead and ordered from Pinball Heaven - https://www.pinball.co.uk/game-specific-parts/star-trek-tng/cannon-looms-for-star-trek-tng-h-17067/

Fair price and fair shipping to the US all things considered. I bought the looms from them a couple years ago and they were great - was just wondering if there was a Pinsider or another US based source making these. All good, and thanks. I'd recommend Pinball Heaven to anyone else looking for these and stumbling across this thread.