Star Trek: The Next Generation
Williams, 1993Quoted from mtadams29:Do you know which ribbon you're referring to? And which board it connects to?
The red lines are at top. I had connected it the way I took it out but the number 1 pin out was connected to the I believe #10 pin and I think it's the new cable In the picture. I didn't know it made a difference as it plugged in the same.
20211110_081502 (resized).jpgQuoted from Lostcause:Could it be sticking in that circular groove it has created?
Quoted from Robotworkshop:I think the ridge on the coil sleeve is supposed to be on the other side of the bracket.
Quoted from jadziedzic:This - When the coil stop bracket gets that deformed the plunger head can stick in the groove, I've had to replace the bracket a couple of times when all else failed.
BTW, not sure why someone stuck a flat washer under the coil stop bracket, but that doesn't belong there.
Ah, OK, thanks I'll look to replace the brackets on both sides.
RE: the washer, nothing to do with me, it's been there since I bought the game!
Quoted from Manny65:Raise the PF (after removing the balls) and manually check how smoothly the VUK plunger moves and also if either the coil bracket screws or the screws holding the mech to the PF have come loose. I'd look at replacing the VUK's sleeve, and clean the plunger - also inspect the plunger and mech for damage or wear while you have it apart. The sleeve can collect grim, which roughens the sleeve surface and causes additional friction on the plunger - often replacing this is all that is needed
This is pretty much what I was planning to do, I'll check this all out, thanks.
In the lengthy process of migrating from the original "punch down" connectors to the .156 08-52-0113 Trifurcon Connectors. The original punch down connectors on a lot of old machines come loose, or barely make a connection. Eventually cause a fire or failure.
This process not only provide an new, clean surfaces for the electrical connections, but also mandates a close inspection of everything. Yes, that is a new Rottendog Driver Board in the background. Love their products...redesigned, quality made and plug and use.
705_1 (resized).jpgIMG_20211110_232443 (resized).jpgIMG_20211110_232455 (resized).jpgIMG_20211110_232511 (resized).jpgIMG_20211110_232527 (resized).jpgQuoted from Eric_Manuel:In the lengthy process of migrating from the original "punch down" connectors to the .156 08-52-0113 Trifurcon Connectors.
If you found any original connectors showing heat damage I recommend replacing the header pins too. Long ago I redid my TZ GI with trifurcon connectors, and years later I found one of them that had been roasted had roasted itself again.
What crimper are you using?
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:In the lengthy process of migrating from the original "punch down" connectors to the .156 08-52-0113 Trifurcon Connectors. The original punch down connectors on a lot of old machines come loose, or barely make a connection. Eventually cause a fire or failure.
This process not only provide an new, clean surfaces for the electrical connections, but also mandates a close inspection of everything. Yes, that is a new Rottendog Driver Board in the background. Love their products...redesigned, quality made and plug and use.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Is it worth redoing all the pins? Those look like new harnesses. Is it worth all the work?
Quoted from Jeff1960:The red lines are at top. I had connected it the way I took it out but the number 1 pin out was connected to the I believe #10 pin and I think it's the new cable In the picture. I didn't know it made a difference as it plugged in the same.
[quoted image]
This was one of the culprits! Thanks for the suggestion. I have had many cascading issues since swapping out the CPU board, likely mostly caused by crossed cables, but it's starting to come back together! On the plus side, since I already started upgrading everything I went ahead and ordered upgraded speakers and a color DMD!
Finally removed the subway to clean and to test optos and clean diverters. Found one diverted bushing has a cracked tack weld. So I welded both with 4 tack welds each. Ran everything through a vibratory tumbler that would fit. Here are two pics. The subway went into the dishwasher and came out immaculate. I have two small cracks probably because a ball dropped on it at some point. What is the material that the subway is made out of is it PETG? Second question I have is I need to put back some lubricant and was wondering what is the best to use?
– Nac
28E6B654-E762-427B-961C-5693BA6E3C5C (resized).jpegC50E4C8A-1FB1-4ED5-87E2-2012AE6593F0 (resized).jpegQuoted from Nacman:Finally removed the subway to clean and to test optos and clean diverters. Found one diverted bushing has a cracked tack weld. So I welded both with 4 tack welds each. Ran everything through a vibratory tumbler that would fit. Here are two pics. The subway went into the dishwasher and came out immaculate. I have two small cracks probably because a ball dropped on it at some point. What is the material that the subway is made out of is it PETG? Second question I have is I need to put back some lubricant and was wondering what is the best to use?
– Nac
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nicely done. The ramps are indeed PETG. As far as lube, a minimal amount of machine oil where the manual indicates; never in coil sleeves!
One thing I did to mine was to put some sticky-back teflon tape on the stainless steel subway ramp insert. It really sped up the delivery of the ball to the cannons.
Quoted from BriannaWu:Is it worth redoing all the pins? Those look like new harnesses. Is it worth all the work?
Originally, I had gotten a punch down tool, and "repunched" all the connectors. I certainly at the least, recommend doing that on ANY machine a person works on. I work on many machines, and find on some, the wires are so small, the punch down tool is not 100% reliable.
My STTNG machine originally had (4) burned up, trashed boards (Power Driver Board, Mini 8 Driver Board, Trough Opto Board Set, and the main opto board). All had been hacked up and heat damaged.
Going through the machine again this week, I've discovered some creative wiring and old connectors worthy of attention. Is it worth doing, sure. This is a complete restoration. The machine's lights seem brighter, flippers stronger, and so on.
Quoted from Zee:Nicely done. The ramps are indeed PETG. As far as lube, a minimal amount of machine oil where the manual indicates; never in coil sleeves!
One thing I did to mine was to put some sticky-back teflon tape on the stainless steel subway ramp insert. It really sped up the delivery of the ball to the cannons.
Awesome idea. point me to the tape you used please. Thank you in advance
Quoted from Nacman:Awesome idea. point me to the tape you used please. Thank you in advance
I'm not seeing the exact 2" wide tape I used; it's probably obsolete now, replaced by better materials. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Adhesive-Resistant-Pressure-Sensitive/dp/B09CDCMFYZ/ref=sr_1_25
Quoted from BriannaWu:Is it worth redoing all the pins? Those look like new harnesses. Is it worth all the work?
You will find lots of differing opinions on this kind of topic. Most everything is opinion. Not fact. Even this is an opinion. Do you own research. Ask questions if you're unsure about pros and cons. This advice also applies to board work - such as replacing the headers. If the connector (housing) and wires are burned then that is something that obviously needs replacing. Wholesale "preventative" replacement may not be necessary.
If you're going to do the work yourself make sure you're comfortable with figuring out problems should they arise. Otherwise I would recommend "if it ain't broke don't fix it". Many people do more harm to their machines by doing "preventative" work.
I don't know your experience and skill level. If you attempt to do something beyond your experience level and you make a mistake you will be asking for help or asking for a technician to do a home visit and this can get expensive. I also realize that with learning to fix your own problems you have to start somewhere.
This is my opinion. Not fact. It is based on my experience having to clean up and fix other people's introduced mistakes.
DumbAss knows what he's talking about, heed his words. (Oh and hi there @DumbAss, I recently realized you are a local who I have met before at a repair party!)
Here are my two cents as someone who has grown in to doing a little of this kind of repair.
Replacing .156 connectors is hard to screw up if you take your time. Any connector with obvious damage should be replaced and I think this is a good skill for people to learn, if they intend to be a long term owner of these games. If you do make a bad crimp, you can re-do it... it is unlikely to cause a catastrophic failure as long as you keep all the wires in the right places! The parts and tools are inexpensive, too.
Replacing headers is much more involved. With a little prior experience in soldering I do think it is an attainable next step for almost anyone. However, no one should attempt it if they are not emotionally and financially prepared to goof it up and pay for help. Also, I would not attempt it if you can't budget for the right tools... a good soldering station and critically, a good desoldering tool. You should also have a DMM with a continuity function. That adds up.
A lot of the skill lies in diagnosing problems and knowing what to replace. Like DumbAss said, "if it ain't broke don't fix it." But there can be exceptions to that rule too, which grow in number as your skill grows. Everyone has to find their own way.
(When I fixed my first non-booting game with a header and connector replacement, it was worth every dime I spent on tools, and every minute spent on research. YMMV!)
The subway and the diverters in the subway are clean and oh my goodness how much smoother they work. I took a couple of pieces of PETG and glued them over some small cracks to reinforce them as well. I’m waiting on some Teflon tape to put down on the metal railway system to speed up the ball. That arrives tomorrow and then I’ll put the top on the subway and put it back in the machine. It was a lot easier than I thought so I’m going to take the time now and do the back diverter as well. Should I go up into the Borg ship and check things out in there as well? It seems to be working fine in the game right now.
D66CCF37-F664-4955-BBA9-A123F5AEA999 (resized).jpegQuoted from Nacman:The subway and the diverters in the subway are clean and oh my goodness how much smoother they work. I took a couple of pieces of PETG and glued them over some small cracks to reinforce them as well. I’m waiting on some Teflon tape to put down on the metal railway system to speed up the ball. That arrives tomorrow and then I’ll put the top on the subway and put it back in the machine. It was a lot easier than I thought so I’m going to take the time now and do the back diverter as well. Should I go up into the Borg ship and check things out in there as well? It seems to be working fine in the game right now.
[quoted image]
That's all well and good, but tell us about that cockpit in the background!
I’m in the process of building an F-16 cockpit with three surround screens for 270° immersion. I have all the instruments under the hood including the ICP panel. Flying it with falcon BMS and also with DCS. The windscreen that’s in the picture is actually from an F-15 it’s the real deal. But at the end of the day I may get rid of it if it impedes my view of the screens.
Quoted from Nacman:I’m in the process of building an F-16 cockpit with three surround screens for 270° immersion. I have all the instruments under the hood including the ICP panel. Flying it with falcon BMS and also with DCS. The windscreen that’s in the picture is actually from an F-15 it’s the real deal. But at the end of the day I may get rid of it if it impedes my view of the screens.
I’d have to take that cockpit to the theatre when the new Top Gun movie comes out.
Quoted from horseflesh:DumbAss knows what he's talking about, heed his words. (Oh and hi there DumbAss, I recently realized you are a local who I have met before at a repair party!)
Here are my two cents as someone who has grown in to doing a little of this kind of repair.
Replacing .156 connectors is hard to screw up if you take your time. Any connector with obvious damage should be replaced and I think this is a good skill for people to learn, if they intend to be a long term owner of these games. If you do make a bad crimp, you can re-do it... it is unlikely to cause a catastrophic failure as long as you keep all the wires in the right places! The parts and tools are inexpensive, too.
Replacing headers is much more involved. With a little prior experience in soldering I do think it is an attainable next step for almost anyone. However, no one should attempt it if they are not emotionally and financially prepared to goof it up and pay for help. Also, I would not attempt it if you can't budget for the right tools... a good soldering station and critically, a good desoldering tool. You should also have a DMM with a continuity function. That adds up.
A lot of the skill lies in diagnosing problems and knowing what to replace. Like DumbAss said, "if it ain't broke don't fix it." But there can be exceptions to that rule too, which grow in number as your skill grows. Everyone has to find their own way.
(When I fixed my first non-booting game with a header and connector replacement, it was worth every dime I spent on tools, and every minute spent on research. YMMV!)
Yes, agreed. I have no reason (nor do I have the skill) to replace the header pins on my boards. ALL the boards are NEW. But the punch downs are gone!!
The STTNG connections in the backbox are now completed! Started up the machine and everything came on great!!! All of the connectors have a new, completely solid electrical connection.
Test and signal lights on the motherboards strong, and bright. Machine seems brighter and more responsive. Will be moving to the lower playfield area in the next couple of days.
Quoted from Nacman:The subway and the diverters in the subway are clean and oh my goodness how much smoother they work. I took a couple of pieces of PETG and glued them over some small cracks to reinforce them as well. I’m waiting on some Teflon tape to put down on the metal railway system to speed up the ball. That arrives tomorrow and then I’ll put the top on the subway and put it back in the machine. It was a lot easier than I thought so I’m going to take the time now and do the back diverter as well. Should I go up into the Borg ship and check things out in there as well? It seems to be working fine in the game right now.
[quoted image]
May I make the suggestion BEFORE you reinstall the subway, replace all the optos. I am assuming the are the originals (28 years old). The machine lives or dies if even one set is out.
In addition, if you wanted to do any additional lighting under the ramps, now is the time to route the wiring for access.
Nice to see the subway protectors installed.
cool
It's been a minute since this was shared, so thought reposting it might help some people.
Everything you could possibly want (NEED) to know about your STTNG 1993 pinball machine. What to look for, how to trouble shoot problems, and procedures to do BEFORE powering things up. No, it's not a short read, but it's great.
Quoted from Zee:One thing I did to mine was to put some sticky-back teflon tape on the stainless steel subway ramp insert. It really sped up the delivery of the ball to the cannons.
OMG, I installed some Sticky PTFE on the bottom of the subway and on the sides anywhere the ball left the streak in the plastic. The balls literally pop up almost immediately after dumping in the subway. They also no longer make the traveling sound while in the subway. Very smooth!
Quoted from Nacman:OMG, I installed some Sticky PTFE on the bottom of the subway and on the sides anywhere the ball left the streak in the plastic. The balls literally pop up almost immediately after dumping in the subway. They also no longer make the traveling sound while in the subway. Very smooth!
Yep! I'm glad you like it. Really makes the game smoother with almost no interruption.
Normally I don't like any mods that replace original artwork but that display panel looks great and so does the translite.
Will the display just be scaled up or is there hi res art available for Pin2DMD STTNG?
(Man, I wish I could just *buy* a Pin2DMD instead of making one or hunting for a group buy.)
Quoted from horseflesh:Normally I don't like any mods that replace original artwork but that display panel looks great and so does the translite.
Will the display just be scaled up or is there hi res art available for Pin2DMD STTNG?
(Man, I wish I could just *buy* a Pin2DMD instead of making one or hunting for a group buy.)
I like keeping things mainly original too but this speaker panel looked really good and the real backglass is a big improvement to me as I really didn’t like the original.
I’m the first person to get the STTNG panel, no hi res unfortunately so it will be upscaled. Watch this space as I will put a video up when it’s running, also got an 8” sub to fit in the cab to help reinforce the sound but apparently those little speakers sound good.
Quoted from Lostcause:Just received this today, 256x64 HD screen with custom speaker panel. Waiting on a power supply before I fit to make sure it’s got enough juice as I think the pin will complain.[quoted image][quoted image]
There is a very nice looking pin2dmd colorization for STTNG. It will be cool to see how that looks upscaled. It would also be fun to add some custom scenes to replace current ones like I did with my Tee'd Off. Still sad that I sold that one after almost 3 years learning how to colorize it. 
20180815_164649 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Lostcause:no hi res unfortunately so it will be upscaled.
I messed around in the editor and tried a few scenes from the project to see how they look in HD mode; I think for the most part the upscaler will do OK and be acceptable, though there are one or two bits of LCARS text that don't scale like I would want - there are one or two single pixels which are sometimes misaligned by one dot; these stand out like a sore thumb when viewing the scenes in the editor and on-screen, but perhaps on-panel this won't be so obvious - it really is just 1 dot.
I already checked with lucky in relation to this and there is a built in setting on the PIN2DMD menu for setting the scaler, so might be worth toggling that once you are up and running and see which one looks best for you.
EDIT: Don't forget to try the tilt.
Quoted from slippifishi:I messed around in the editor and tried a few scenes from the project to see how they look in HD mode; I think for the most part the upscaler will do OK and be acceptable, though there are one or two bits of LCARS text that don't scale like I would want - there are one or two single pixels which are sometimes misaligned by one dot; these stand out like a sore thumb when viewing the scenes in the editor and on-screen, but perhaps on-panel this won't be so obvious - it really is just 1 dot.
I already checked with lucky in relation to this and there is a built in setting on the PIN2DMD menu for setting the scaler, so might be worth toggling that once you are up and running and see which one looks best for you.
EDIT: Don't forget to try the tilt.
I’m sure it will be great mate, appreciate people like you doing these. Will be in touch once it’s all running so you can have a drink on me
Quoted from PinHigh1:I am looking to join the club again at some point.. What is the going rate for an average player's machine that needs some work?
Will be hard to find under $5k I'd say right now.
Hi all,
I have been through this machine looking for issues after the coil burned on the back drop up coil (the one that blocks lock). In the video I said it was a diverter coil, that is not accurate but they are all fed from the Driver 8 board. Replace the Tip102 and the predriver as well. Anyway, I have always had (even prior to the burned coil) and still have some buzzing or humming with 2 or 3 coils. Please watch the video and comment if you think this is an issue. Thank you!!
Quoted from Nacman:Hi all,
I have been through this machine looking for issues after the coil burned on the back drop up coil (the one that blocks lock). In the video I said it was a diverter coil, that is not accurate but they are all fed from the Driver 8 board. Replace the Tip102 and the predriver as well. Anyway, I have always had (even prior to the burned coil) and still have some buzzing or humming with 2 or 3 coils. Please watch the video and comment if you think this is an issue. Thank you!!
There's no issue. The top diverter is just loud.
Quoted from HHaase:Will be hard to find under $5k I'd say right now.
I was thinking 4000-4500 for unshopped players condition (broken parts, no LEDs, needs work etc.) And maybe 5-6k for shopped and working. 6k+ for super nice or better.
Sound about right?
I sold a nice one a year and a half ago or so that had almost new everything...for 4500....and regret it. 
Quoted from Nacman:comment if you think this is an issue
As MrMikeman said, it's normal. I believe they 'sing' because the software is pulsing the coil on and off rapidly.
Quoted from PinHigh1:I am looking to join the club again at some point.. What is the going rate for an average player's machine that needs some work
I just picked up a pretty clean Sttng but had some Board issues to work through and some cosmetic things. Game was $4500 before the work.
Quoted from PinHigh1:I was thinking 4000-4500 for unshopped players condition (broken parts, no LEDs, needs work etc.) And maybe 5-6k for shopped and working. 6k+ for super nice or better.
Sound about right?
I sold a nice one a year and a half ago or so that had almost new everything...for 4500....and regret it.
I managed to get one earlier this year for £500 or $675 that was on eBay, I put an offer in the minute it was on there and got lucky. It was a nice one too.
Never say never!
Quoted from Lostcause:I managed to get one earlier this year for £500 or $675 that was on eBay, I put an offer in the minute it was on there and got lucky. It was a nice one too.
Never say never!
Wow, nice find...enjoy!
Quoted from MrMikeman:There's no issue. The top diverter is just loud.
Good to know thank you. Can you expand on that answer. Is it the diverter hardware (shaft,bushing etc) or the coil? I now plan on breaking it down for a thorough cleaning as well but I could also change the coil. Would changing the coil lessen the hum?
Quoted from BriPin:As MrMikeman said, it's normal. I believe they 'sing' because the software is pulsing the coil on and off rapidly.
This explanation kinds of answers why the sound is prolonged, as it is being pulsed rapidly. My same questions about apply, besides cleaning, which is happening today, would a different coil pulse quiter by chance? Most of the coils are original williams coils except for the flippers and the two burned that I replaced last week and yesterday.
-Nac
Quoted from Nacman:would a different coil pulse quiter
No I wouldn’t think so. It’s just the way it is and is louder with the glass off. You won’t notice it during gameplay.
I no longer have this power board, however I thought I would show it for an example of what is typical in the STTNG pinball machines.
Note, the red and black jumps were put in by me (before I decided to replace the board completely)
Just because a machine "comes on" doesn't mean it's working or reliable.....
1 (resized).jpg2 (resized).jpg3 (resized).jpg4 (resized).jpg5 (resized).jpgQuoted from Eric_Manuel:show it for an example of what is typical in the STTNG pinball machines.
Note, the red and black jumps were put in by me (before I decided to replace the board completely)[quoted image] ("normal jumpers suggested to install")
You could find something similar in any WPC-89 machine. The problems here are not confined to STTNG.
There is no such thing as "normal jumpers suggested to install". The "normal" board has NO JUMPERS. Jumpers are an indication that someone who worked on the board (and probably should not have worked on the board) pulled through holes. It amazes me that it looks like 1/3 - 1/2 (33%-50%) of the through holes were pulled by the technician doing that work.
Quoted from DumbAss:You could find something similar in any WPC-89 machine. The problems here are not confined to STTNG.
There is no such thing as "normal jumpers suggested to install". The "normal" board has NO JUMPERS. Jumpers are an indication that someone who worked on the board (and probably should not have worked on the board) pulled through holes. It amazes me that it looks like 1/3 - 1/2 (33%-50%) of the through holes were pulled by the technician doing that work.
This! I just went through 4 WPC drivers for people and took care to fix them properly so no jumpers like that are needed. Combination of stitches and at least on the bridges being able to solder both the top and bottom of the PCB.
Well, I'm back in the club! - found a player's machine and now making a list of parts I need to get it back in play - plus mods I want etc. If anyone out there has parts or mods for STTNG that they want to sell, let me know as I may be interested in buying them - I have a long list of stuff I need - cabinet parts and playfield parts.
Thanks!
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:I no longer have this power board, however I thought I would show it for an example of what is typical in the STTNG pinball machines.
Note, the red and black jumps were put in by me (before I decided to replace the board completely)
Just because a machine "comes on" doesn't mean it's working or reliable.....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
*eye twitch*
I will see this board in my nightmares tonight. Thanks.
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:I no longer have this power board, however I thought I would show it for an example of what is typical in the STTNG pinball machines.
Note, the red and black jumps were put in by me (before I decided to replace the board completely)
Just because a machine "comes on" doesn't mean it's working or reliable.....
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Where is the source for the recommended jumpers? I couldn't find anything related to the older WPC boards on pinwiki for recommendations.
I have tried to hold back on mocking the original work tho.. as I understand it, this is often a person trying to hack in a repair quickly, with what they have on hand in who knows what kind of location back in the day... likely any of us could be guilty of that kind of thing given the context and era.
Quoted from koji:Where is the source for the recommended jumpers? I couldn't find anything related to the older WPC boards on pinwiki for recommendations.
I have tried to hold back on mocking the original work tho.. as I understand it, this is often a person trying to hack in a repair quickly, with what they have on hand in who knows what kind of location back in the day... likely any of us could be guilty of that kind of thing given the context and era.
The recommendation is to not mess up the WPC driver board in the first place! There are no recommended jumpers that I am aware of for the WPC driver boards. All those jumpers were added to the back of the board because someone did not have the proper knowledge and/or equipment to work on those boards. They basically F’d it up and the jumpers are a bandaid. When they removed the caps and bridges (most of the time the bridges are actually ok) they pulled out the through hole plating and damaged traces. Because that happened they added all the jumper wires. I’ve gotten boards in for repair like that. I end up stripping off all the parts they messed with, rebuild traces, create stitches using wire or excess leads from components, fix pads, and carefully assemble in an order that lets me solder both the top and bottom of the board under the bridges. When I’m done no extra jumpers on the bottom unless there are some traces that got vaporized.
I rarely ever run across a bad bridge on the boards. If it happens it is usually due to some idiot overfusing the board or other parts of the machine. Never overfuse. It can damage a bridge if it is the next weakest component. There are many places online that recommend replacing the caps and bridges. Caps yes, bridges no. The original caps are usually due for replacement and are often reading way low. The caps should be carefully replaced. Unless the bridges are bad just leave them. People often cause problems by removing them and damage the board.
Early Bally and Stern driver boards should have jumpers added on the back of those boards to tie the two 5v sections together and jumpers to tie grounds together. Gottlieb needs ground mods on their early boards
Quoted from PinHigh1:Anyone have a good source for head decals ?
found. thank you Ballypinball
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