He laid it out clearly with he older GI ocd board. Some mention of the newer boards being different occurred..then somebody mentioned this bypass could happen directly from the wiring block in the lower cabinet which would be great.

Just want a bit of a dummy’s tutorial on that.

99.99% sure it should be installed like this: It keeps fast moving balls from flying off the rail.

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I would light all mods with external power, and not use the machine at all. Hallmark ships do NOT all use the same power btw. Much discussion on this topic has been previously posted with the proper advice. So a search on the topic.

Agree - get a separate Power block. They cost $20 so also one of the cheapest mods out there... You can get one with dual power output and check to see what you need for the Hallmarks machines you own..

It's a 28 year old game and the power supply and when new, there was just enough to power to drive what was in there 28 years ago... If you swap to LED'S, you free up some bandwidth for a couple of mods maybe.

I have had power issues with Williams, Gottlieb and Data East and unless you want to keep the system OEM - in which case you aren't adding mods - mod the power as well. The good news is that it's completely reversible.

I just purchased and installed these smart Eddy boards from Tangles' Pin Parts in Australia. They work nicely and install easily. They also work on TOM, Scared Stiff, and Road Show with a jumper set correctly. The price was a little better when I bought 4 of them (2 for me, 2 for a friend). They arrived in less than 2 weeks.

https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023

(The first two pictures are the new boards installed. The third picture shows the original boards. The 4th picture just shows the printed instructions and a board.)

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Makes total sense! Thanks!

Would be awesome if PBL or Mirco started carrying these so we didn't have to deal with shipping times.

Hi,

Do the IPDB eproms (Special Sound ROMs LX-7) contain "new" quotes from the movie ?
If yes, how to enable the new quotes ?
Can I use 27c040-15 ?
Is it a raison why the U8 name is ng_u8_s.l1 (compare to others ngs_ux.rom) ?

Thanks

Anyone put new decals on their cabinet?

If so, where did you get them? How was the quality?

I’m looking at Mr Pinball in Australia and Pinball Decals in Europe.

Thanks for any help!

The special sound roms contain bloopers and various weird/funny quotes from the actors when they recorded the pinball speech. Has nothing to do with movies. There is a setting to enable extra speech in the settings if you have the appropriate LX-7 ROM as well as the special sound roms.

It's mostly for the attract mode when you press a flipper button. You will hear some during game play as well.

Is there several LX-7 revision?
On my STTNG, the game rom is LX-7 and sound rom L-1
Thanks

The LEDOCD seems to be working well. The flickers are all gone. And I never realized how much I missed that fade effect that incandescent have.

Hi,
Did someone use the wpclp_1.4 software to "patch ghosting " on the LX-7 rom ?
thanks

One of the games that really benefits from LEDOCD or what I have Aftergow board, most WPC games with leds look wrong without them to me.

The LEDOCD effect is subtle, but once you have it in, you don’t wanna go back.

Where do you get the Afterglow PCB? All I can find is their github page.

Cool Mods from Mick Pinball

More cool mods from Mick Pinball

Mick Pinball

It is a DIY project
stumblor organised a group buy at some point

The plungers on both my cannons are sticking and not returning. I think they need to be demagnetized as the coil sleeves are clean and smooth and the mechs are not binding up at all.

I don't have a demagnetizer or degausser - I found this nice cheap one that does both magnetize and demagnetize. Would this be sufficient? Does anyone have a recommendation for a tool? Thanx in advance...

https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-40010-Magnetizer-or-Demagnetizer/dp/B00018AONE/ref=psdc_553336_t1_B00PBCDRN4

I use an electric one I got on Amazon that I paid around 90$USD for. I see it's no longer available for you guys but weird enough it's still available on the Canadian Amazon.

It's a temporary fix. They are starting to stick again after about 9-10 months since I demagnetized them. Probably way cheaper to just replace the plungers.

Maybe put something non-conductive between the metal parts that are magnetically sticking? Some thin rubber traction tape comes to mind.

When this happens on my game I take the mech apart, clean up the plunger, spring, coil sleeve, etc. really well then I stretch the spring out a bit to give it more return strength and it usually fixes the problem for at least a couple years or more.

No he's right, the magnetism is a thing. On my STTNG I recently completely rebuilt my canon mechs out of 100% new parts. They work great. If I put the old plunger back in, they stick.

I've had my game for 16+ years and have never once replaced one of those plungers, have probably cleaned them up 3 or 4 times max in that time. Not saying it can't / doesn't happen but I've never had to replace one and this game was a routed re-import fresh out of a container when I bought it.

Ours

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I’m assuming you’re the Australian ones. LOL

I just ordered from you guys the other day.

Really like the blacked out look, I might do this

I did that with mine.

Beezleboob will be posting photos of it in the next couple weeks.

correct

Are there special mirror blades for this pin since it’s a widebody? Who is best source for mirror blades.

What about that backboard decal?

Anyone sell just the backbox side decals only? See with ministry of pinball but that’s an oversea shipment.

Zitt’s pop caps… if I go purple what color pop bodies and skirts are people using?

Thanks
Dan

The B/W Superpins (aka widebody) use the standard B/W mirror blades, as the PF length is the same

Thanks

I can supply head decals either full size or die cut

It's flipper rebuild time... yaaay.

Flipper rebuild kit and new coils. Ordered a replacement for a broken plastic and bought some Comet LEDs.

Regular, standard maintenance. Fun times.

Crafted this handy little opto switch tester with duct tape and zip tie. Was diagnosing random extra balls and this helped me rapidly conclude the fault was on the logic side. Reseated some connectors and the problem quickly resolved.

Thanks for the eddy board sensor lead btw!

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Never been asked or pictured.
I'd probably do purple bodies, clear skirts, and clear bases so the playfeild graphics is more visible. Of course all purple is possible if that's your desire, but wouldn't look right against the blue playfeild graphics -imho

Someone posted a pic of the play field and numbered all the inserts along with the corresponding bulb to go with it. I’m once again trying to come up with a master led bulb list and that spreadsheet is a little confusing for me to read. Like the column that says “number of identical bulbs “ has me scratching my head. Like. Is that the number of bulbs needed for that color or????

Got my shipment from Comet in and switched out my saucer bulbs. Changed the outer bulbs from white (and an odd green) to purple and changed the command decision light from purple to white.

I think it looks pretty good, what do you guys think?

I will play with it like that for a while, though I can't play too seriously because my right flipper is messed up and I am waiting on a rebuild kit. I have enough white bulbs to change them all back to white with a purple in the middle, that's the alternative, if it turns out I don't like them like this.

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I prefer the warm classic glow of incandescents save for the upper playfield flashers which I have blue in borg and color matched the other two.

I chased this funky color LED path once. The only way I’d do it again is color match the inserts and do herg boards. But I could be swayed for something creative for worm hole.

Check out Mick Pinball for the "Engine Mod Led Mod" to make the engines move. I posted a video of it a few threads back.

Since you're asking for opinions, I think it looks garish and gaudy. The game wasn't designed to have purple lights there, and it throws off the aesthetic of the Enterprise. In addition, too much purple lighting in any game makes the ball difficult to see.

Inserts are always best when color matched. General illumination is best when white - warm, natural, or cool depending on theme and personal taste.

That said, I'm just a random guy on the Internet. It's your game, and you should absolutely enjoy it however you want!

Posted this previously. For those interested in really upgrading their STTNG Pin with better sound, check this out. Certainly Pinsound System is the way to go. However don't use their "speaker adapter panel" for the smaller speaker hole.
It just blocks some of the sound, and limits the addition of the other cool mod out there, LEDs around the speakers.
Check out this company who produces a replacement speaker panel, with the hardware already installed to have a larger right side hole. $29 plus shipping!

https://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=114&zenid=eq9gis5imujk9so48laj9fd7l5

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I wanted to try something different. The purple bulbs weren't expensive, so I just got a set. Previous owner had one green bulb in there and it was annoying me.

I haven't really played many games with them, I will this weekend assuming I can get the flippers rebuilt (the right flipper doesn't go down all the way).

Probably will play a bit with the purples and then switch them back to white, play a bit, see what I like the best.

I assume any lamp under a clear insert on a game from this era was designed to be a shade of incandescent white? I do have a few oddball colors in some of the inserts.

Does anyone know where I can find a spinner and assembly? I installed a STERN spinner that works well. Thanks

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Holy smokes I think you just helped me fix a flaky cannon. Somehow, I didn't realize the plungers could get magnetized. Once in a blue moon I have a weak shot or a failure to retract despite everything being clean and all the electrical connections being solid.

Indeed. Every insert was designed to have an incandescent bulb underneath, which would illuminate the insert in whatever color it was plus perhaps slightly warmer. I agree LEDs look better for a multitude of reasons including brightness and clarity, but it has to be done within reason. Doing over-the-top lighting modifications like that take away from the experience intended by the designer. If the inserts were supposed to be purple, Greg Freres and Steve Ritchie would have made them purple.

Why is the spinner contact bent above the plastic like that? No wonder it doesn't work well!