(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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#6501 2 years ago

I got 6.3 VAC when I check the lights and 7.7 VAC at J121. Wiggling the connectors does not make a difference.

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#6502 2 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I got 6.3 VAC when I check the lights and 7.7 VAC at J121. Wiggling the connectors does not make a difference.[quoted image]

I’d reflow solder on those headers and re-pin the connectors.

I think J120 and J121 are interchangeable, but let someone confirm first. You can plug backbox to the other header and see if any change.

Did you check power saver in adjustments? I think that effects when the game is idle only though?

#6503 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I’d reflow solder on those headers and re-pin the connectors.
I think J120 and J121 are interchangeable, but let someone confirm first. You can plug backbox to the other header and see if any change.
Did you check power saver in adjustments? I think that effects when the game is idle only though?

Yes J120 and J121 are interchangeable as the header pins are linked on the PCB.

#6504 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I think J120 and J121 are interchangeable, but let someone confirm first. You can plug backbox to the other header and see if any change.

I tried that with no change.

Quoted from radium:

Did you check power saver in adjustments? I think that effects when the game is idle only though?

Yes it is on, but I did turn it off and rebooted, but no change.

Quoted from radium:

I’d reflow solder on those headers and re-pin the connectors.

I have not reflowed the headers, but the connector is new.

#6505 2 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I have not reflowed the headers, but the connector is new.

GI lights are bad about browning connectors and pins.
If you have bad pins; the connectors are bad too.
Many people rarely do both.

If you aren't getting dimming effects in the Lamp test... and you don't have an OCGi product; then you either have an electrical dimmer problem on the GI... or more likely bad connectors, pins, or cracked solder joints.

#6506 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

GI lights are bad about browning connectors and pins.
If you have bad pins; the connectors are bad too.
Many people rarely do both.
If you aren't getting dimming effects in the Lamp test... and you don't have an OCGi product; then you either have an electrical dimmer problem on the GI... or more likely bad connectors, pins, or cracked solder joints.

The lights do dim in the backbox in the lamp test.
I when ahead and changed out the pins to be on the safe side. They still looked shiny to me. Going to put everything back together and see what I got.

20210823_183634 (resized).jpg20210823_183634 (resized).jpg
#6507 2 years ago

I also changed out J120 again. Still have dim lights on the backbox.

How does the dimmer function work and where would it be?

#6508 2 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I also changed out J120 again. Still have dim lights on the backbox.
How does the dimmer function work and where would it be?

Found this on pin Wiki
Gi power is provided by the transformer in the form of 6.3VAC at power/driver board connector J115. Although there are five pairs of wires, they are all connected together at the transformer. One side of the AC GI circuit on the power/driver board is fused by F106 through F110 which are all 5ASB fuses. This side runs to the GI lamps, and carries 6.3VAC to the backbox, playfield, and coin door via power driver board connectors J120, J121, and J119 respectively. J119 is a 3-pin header that is always connected to the coin door lamps. J120 and J121 are electrically and physically identical (keyed at pin 4) and therefore can be connected to either the female playfield GI connector or the female backbox GI connector without care. The other side of the GI AC feed is connected to ground.
The GI power is controlled by a triac in the return line from the playfield. When these triacs are off, no current passes and the lamps are off. When the triac is turned on, the GI lamps glow. The triac is a slightly special part - it must be a "four sector" triac. This means that it can switch both positive and negative sides of the AC cycle with only a positive signal.
Each triac is switched on/off by a 2N5401 transistor which is controlled by U1, a 74LS374, an octal D-Type Flip-Flop with three state outputs (a fancy way of saying that the device is an 8-bit data buffer).
U1 is "clocked" by the ASIC via the /TRIAC signal. If you have AC power present at J115, and no GI at all, it's possible that the /TRIAC signal is not getting through to U1. A logic probe applied to pin 11 of U1 will prove that the signal is getting through. If the signal is not present, try (after turning the power OFF)...

Pressing firmly on the MPU ASIC to "reseat" it.
"Reseating" the ribbon cable between the MPU and the Power/Driver board.
Use your logic probe to track the signal from pin 66 of the ASIC, across the MPU to the MPU connector, across the ribbon cable, then across the Power/Driver board to U1 pin 11.
The CPU can dim the GI by switching on the GI for only parts of the AC waveform. To do this, the CPU uses a zero crossing signal on the driver board keyed from the AC that feeds the 5V circuit, diodes D3 and D38, and the LM339 at U6.

WPC General Illumination Connector J115 (AC power in). Note wire colors, beginning on the bottom with a yellow/white, then three (looped) yellow, then three (looped) yellow/white.

Wire colors to J115 during the early WPC games were always yellow (AC) and yellow-white (AC return) as pictured at left. Pin 1 of J115 provides the "ground reference". Later WPC games used different wire colors at J115 and instead of "looping" power through the connector at J115, connected two wires to the same pin at the 9-pin connector between the transformer secondary and J115.

The colored wire connections for this era of WPC game are yel-wht connected to pin 1, yellow connected to pins 2-6, yel-wht connected to pins 7,8, 10, 11, & 12. Pin 9 is the key.
J119 is always keyed at pin 2, with a white-Violet wire at pin 1 and a Violet wire at pin 3

J120 and J121 are 11 pin connectors. Wire color/positions (when used) are identical for all WPC games and are shown in the table.

#6509 2 years ago

Thank you @monkfe!

#6510 2 years ago

I found a single black wire coming off the trough board severed. The kickout and trough work fine and it’s been that way for a long time. No errors noted. Anyone know why this would be severed? It’s not deliberate for some reason, is it? It’s easy to reattach, but I don’t want to mess something up.

E5B6EDF1-0DEF-4611-841E-B0F2AE35BDDE (resized).jpegE5B6EDF1-0DEF-4611-841E-B0F2AE35BDDE (resized).jpeg
#6511 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I found a single black wire coming off the trough board severed. The kickout and trough work fine and it’s been that way for a long time. No errors noted. Anyone know why this would be severed? It’s not deliberate for some reason, is it? It’s easy to reattach, but I don’t want to mess something up.
[quoted image]

As I recall the black wire is the ground for the 12v opto board, may daisy chain to another location?

#6512 2 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

As I recall the black wire is the ground for the 12v opto board, may daisy chain to another location?

That could be. Weird that it would be severed in the middle of the wire. Like it could be deliberate.

#6513 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

That could be. Weird that it would be severed in the middle of the wire. Like it could be deliberate.

Possible it got caught on something and severed that way.

#6514 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Possible it got caught on something and severed that way.

Sounds like there is no obvious reason not to reconnect that wire. I’ll do that soon.

#6515 2 years ago

Several issues to manage when deciding to do the "Non-Glare" glass.

* Cost of course (they are all about the same....)

* Shipping Cost (this varies greatly) and yes, I know it's glass.

* The are for main manufactures producing this specialize product. VooDoo and Invisiglass are the leaders.

* It appears special care is required for cleaning, not sure the details however will be learning more.

* Do they make a widebody version? Some DO NOT. The Williams machine owners like STTNG and Indiana Jones, etc. need this.

Machines of 25 years or more usually have tons of scratches and abuse. So when doing a restoration, I had to determine if it was worth the expense verses other costs (PinSound / Color DMD) and so on.

In the case of my machine, with the additional lighting, color displays and all of the other stuff, I finally decided to make the plunge. This is the first experience I've had with such an upgrade.

#6516 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Several issues to manage when deciding to do the "Non-Glare" glass.
* Cost of course (they are all about the same....)
* Shipping Cost (this varies greatly) and yes, I know it's glass.
* The are for main manufactures producing this specialize product. VooDoo and Invisiglass are the leaders.
* It appears special care is required for cleaning, not sure the details however will be learning more.
* Do they make a widebody version? Some DO NOT. The Williams machine owners like STTNG and Indiana Jones, etc. need this.
Machines of 25 years or more usually have tons of scratches and abuse. So when doing a restoration, I had to determine if it was worth the expense verses other costs (PinSound / Color DMD) and so on.
In the case of my machine, with the additional lighting, color displays and all of the other stuff, I finally decided to make the plunge. This is the first experience I've had with such an upgrade.

Will be interesting to hear if it makes a difference. Haven't see it in person before. One upgrade that did help a lot was just the bent plastic piece to block the DMD glare from reflecting from the glass. That made a huge difference and ended up getting them for the other DMD games too.

#6517 2 years ago

Yes, it helps. I have one. Around $10 bucks. Pinball life.

#6518 2 years ago

Hello TNG club, I was wondering about issues related to the right phaser. I've noticed mine is quite slow, I figured I would need to clean it out and service it.. but when powering the machine on at first, I noticed it is moving much more quickly, like I presume it should? I was wondering if there might be something else going on here? some setting or reason it would move more slowly in game only? The left seems much faster.

Thank you-

#6519 2 years ago
Quoted from koji:

Hello TNG club, I was wondering about issues related to the right phaser. I've noticed mine is quite slow, I figured I would need to clean it out and service it.. but when powering the machine on at first, I noticed it is moving much more quickly, like I presume it should? I was wondering if there might be something else going on here? some setting or reason it would move more slowly in game only? The left seems much faster.
Thank you-

The cannon will move slowly during ball search check if the plunger is stuck open either because the sleeve is dirty/catching on the plunger, or maybe the plunger is magnetized from years of use and getting stuck open.

#6520 2 years ago
Quoted from koji:

Hello TNG club, I was wondering about issues related to the right phaser. I've noticed mine is quite slow, I figured I would need to clean it out and service it.. but when powering the machine on at first, I noticed it is moving much more quickly, like I presume it should? I was wondering if there might be something else going on here? some setting or reason it would move more slowly in game only? The left seems much faster.
Thank you-

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slow-cannons

Came across this by accident when searching for how to fix my loud gun gear noise.

#6521 2 years ago

REVIEW: Just installed the VooDoo Glass on my STTNG Pin. AMAZING! Certainly makes a difference over regular pinball machine glass.

It's it the "best" out there? I have no idea, honestly. However it's $100 less than others, and about $24 for shipping. This makes is about $150+ less than the others. Cointaker Pinball shipped out the widebody glass in nicely protected box, and took less then a week to get.

OUTCOME: If you are restoring a valuable classic machine, and have scratched up glass, this investment IS worth the purchase (after PinSound, LED upgrade..etc)

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#6522 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slow-cannons
Came across this by accident when searching for how to fix my loud gun gear noise.

The cannons will get "gummed up" over time. It's a process, however after 27 years of service, the grease is old. The proper way is to remove the mech and clean smooth the shaft leading to the underside motor. Also, the motors (inside) can also get gummy. There are some blogs on taking them apart, however it's not super simple. New motors can be purchased if desired.

This is worthwhile service to do on ALL STTNG machines, and 99 percent of the time, has NEVER been on a machine.

#6523 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

The cannons will get "gummed up" over time. It's a process, however after 27 years of service, the grease is old. The proper way is to remove the mech and clean smooth the shaft leading to the underside motor. Also, the motors (inside) can also get gummy. There are some blogs on taking them apart, however it's not super simple. New motors can be purchased if desired.
This is worthwhile service to do on ALL STTNG machines, and 99 percent of the time, has NEVER been on a machine.

Additional note: This is a perfect time to inspect the crank arms for breaks and damage. Look for cracks. Replacement arms are available. DO NOT try to get by with the old ones, they will fail. ISSUE. The tiny metal pins which are use are a bitch to deal with. They have to be taps out, and reinstalled when the new arm is replaced.

#6524 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Will be interesting to hear if it makes a difference. Haven't see it in person before. One upgrade that did help a lot was just the bent plastic piece to block the DMD glare from reflecting from the glass. That made a huge difference and ended up getting them for the other DMD games too.

Thanks. I just posted a review on this page

#6525 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

I’d reflow solder on those headers and re-pin the connectors.
I think J120 and J121 are interchangeable, but let someone confirm first. You can plug backbox to the other header and see if any change.
Did you check power saver in adjustments? I think that effects when the game is idle only though?

I recently got a connector PUNCH DOWN TOOL to fit the larger connectors in the machine. It takes time to do all the connectors in the machine, however loose (hard to see) wires can cause electrical resistance. The tool just reseats the wire firmly into the connector. As you go through the machine, you can also inspect the condition of the sockets and connector in general.

#6526 2 years ago

Hey there just joined the club! STTNG was the first pin I ever played and I hoped that someday I'd be fortunate enough to own one. I've always been hesitant since people have said it needs a lot of maintenance. Well, I came across one in fairly good condition.. and it was too good to pass up! I've finally had some time to really start going over it and I noticed that a majority of the flashers arent working at all. I figured maybe just burnt out bulbs since this game had all the original bulbs. I started going through replacing the bulbs and noticed that these flashers are still not working. Its only specific to the following flashers: Romulan flasher, the red flasher (above the right ramp on the backboard) the single flashers on either side by the VUKs, a few of the Borg lights (just the right and lefts - the centers are working) I opened the backbox and I dont see any burned fuses so I'm hoping its not something too difficult. Appreciate any help from the STTNG pros here.. I gotta say when I opened the backbox I felt immediately intimidated by everything going on in there! But I am still very happy to have this game!

thumbnail_IMG_0409 (resized).jpgthumbnail_IMG_0409 (resized).jpg

#6527 2 years ago
Quoted from djsoup:

Hey there just joined the club! STTNG was the first pin I ever played and I hoped that someday I'd be fortunate enough to own one. I've always been hesitant since people have said it needs a lot of maintenance. Well, I came across one in fairly good condition.. and it was too good to pass up! I've finally had some time to really start going over it and I noticed that a majority of the flashers arent working at all. I figured maybe just burnt out bulbs since this game had all the original bulbs. I started going through replacing the bulbs and noticed that these flashers are still not working. Its only specific to the following flashers: Romulan flasher, the red flasher (above the right ramp on the backboard) the single flashers on either side by the VUKs, a few of the Borg lights (just the right and lefts - the centers are working) I opened the backbox and I dont see any burned fuses so I'm hoping its not something too difficult. Appreciate any help from the STTNG pros here.. I gotta say when I opened the backbox I felt immediately intimidated by everything going on in there! But I am still very happy to have this game!
[quoted image]

Look at the flashers/solenoids table on page 2 of the manual to look for commonalities in the ones that are out:

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-pinball/S/Star_Trek_TNG_OPS.pdf

#6528 2 years ago

Also this diagram:

Flashlamp Diagram (resized).pngFlashlamp Diagram (resized).png
#6529 2 years ago

I’m getting some random power re-boots from time to time. Sometimes I can play a very long game with no issues, other times it reboots within seconds of pressing start. Is that little device you install on the board the best solution? Or is it first essential to identify the specific cause? Thanks!

#6530 2 years ago

Sounds like bridge rectifiers, and caps to me. I think it is your 5v dropping. It is the famous reset issue. Your power board needs work.

#6531 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

Sounds like bridge rectifiers, and caps to me. I think it is your 5v dropping. It is the famous reset issue. Your power board needs work.

Yep, I agree. I had this issue on my TZ last year. I’m concerned that if I spend $40-50 for a daughter board as temp fix to prevent 5v from dropping, it will just come back or persist. Might as well fix the power board the right way now.

#6532 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Yep, I agree. I had this issue on my TZ last year. I’m concerned that if I spend $40-50 for a daughter board as temp fix to prevent 5v from dropping, it will just come back or persist. Might as well fix the power board the right way now.

The reset board is a great temporary fix but it doesn't address the underlying issue. Best to diagnose where the issue is before sending the board off for repair, as it may not necessarily be the PDB.

#6533 2 years ago

My opinion yes, for sure fix the board. No need to bypass or add something because you have problem. I think it a couple caps and 2 bridge rectifiers, fixes it.
Someone may even sella kit nowadays.

#6534 2 years ago
Quoted from radium:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/slow-cannons
Came across this by accident when searching for how to fix my loud gun gear noise.

Wow, thanks all for the tips. I am worried it might be something like what this fellow has in this thread, as the phaser moves perfectly in start up and test.. just in game it is slow. But regardless, I'll try taking it all apart for a full service.. not my first rodeo here

--------------------

One more question while I'm at it.. My son noticed a Holodeck skill setting A2 -24. Wondering if anyone has more info on it? it's not in the manual

Thank you!

#6535 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

My opinion yes, for sure fix the board. No need to bypass or add something because you have problem. I think it a couple caps and 2 bridge rectifiers, fixes it.
Someone may even sella kit nowadays.

On almost all of the boards I’ve worked on the bridges were fine. More times I’ve seen issues caused by people changing parts that weren’t bad and damage the board since they didn’t have the proper tools. If the large caps have never been changed then it would be good to start with those. I’d only do the bridges if they test bad. I’ve got three driver boards in for repair now and most of that is clearing off all prior work and fixing hacks from prior bridge and cap replacement. Also have a burned connector to fix.

Need to be careful on the large caps with the snap in leads. I’ll typically heat them with two irons and have my son pull them out. Small caps can also go bad and check for bad connections at the 5V regulator. If they’ve never been done change all 5 large ones. I’ve pulled out some that read less than a 3rd of their rated value and the other specs were awful.

If you can determine that a reset occurs when certain coils fire you may have a bad diode on that coil. You may also have a really poor IDC connection with an intermittent connection.

#6536 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

On almost all of the boards I’ve worked on the bridges were fine. More times I’ve seen issues caused by people changing parts that weren’t bad and damage the board since they didn’t have the proper tools. If the large caps have never been changed then it would be good to start with those. I’d only do the bridges if they test bad. I’ve got three driver boards in for repair now and most of that is clearing off all prior work and fixing hacks from prior bridge and cap replacement. Also have a burned connector to fix.
Need to be careful on the large caps with the snap in leads. I’ll typically heat them with two irons and have my son pull them out. Small caps can also go bad and check for bad connections at the 5V regulator. If they’ve never been done change all 5 large ones. I’ve pulled out some that read less than a 3rd of their rated value and the other specs were awful.
If you can determine that a reset occurs when certain coils fire you may have a bad diode on that coil. You may also have a really poor IDC connection with an intermittent connection.

Yeah, the caps on my TZ were bad. Someone had replaced them but not correctly. If you aren’t overwhelmed I can bring my board home to Lansing this week and get it to you to check it out?

#6537 2 years ago
Quoted from djsoup:

I've always been hesitant since people have said it needs a lot of maintenance. Well, I came across one in fairly good condition..

I'll say! Your backbox looks fantastic, all original boards including the CPU board; this is almost unheard of anymore!

Congratulations on your purchase, this machine will give you years of enjoyment but please replace the alkaline batteries on your CPU board with AA Energizer lithium's. I've been using the same batteries in my STTNG for almost 6 years now ... I should probably replace them, but I want to know how long they will last

#6538 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I'll say! Your backbox looks fantastic, all original boards including the CPU board; this is almost unheard of anymore!
Congratulations on your purchase, this machine will give you years of enjoyment but please replace the alkaline batteries on your CPU board with AA Energizer lithium's. I've been using the same batteries in my STTNG for almost 6 years now ... I should probably replace them, but I want to know how long they will last

It's not really how "long" your batteries will last. Actually replacing the batteries before they leak or corrode is the issue. May I also suggest if you have your setting tweaked a perfect way, to keep them and your scores, replace the batteries with the machine ON.
Also, if possible, relocate the batteries with a kit OFF BOARD, as to future proof the machine.

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#6539 2 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I'll say! Your backbox looks fantastic, all original boards including the CPU board; this is almost unheard of anymore!
Congratulations on your purchase, this machine will give you years of enjoyment but please replace the alkaline batteries on your CPU board with AA Energizer lithium's. I've been using the same batteries in my STTNG for almost 6 years now ... I should probably replace them, but I want to know how long they will last

Thanks! Great suggestions! I picked up some Lithiums and I also got a new full set of plastics. I can already see a difference.. the blue color on the old plastics is practically green! Looking forward to stripping the game down and cleaning everything over the long holiday weekend. I also figured out the flashers issue, some bad connectors and also I didnt realize this but the flasher test wont work unless the coin door is closed! Everything is working now, just need to give the enterprise a good detailing.

new (resized).jpgnew (resized).jpg
#6540 2 years ago

Is there a master bulb list somewhere that someone has compiled ? I’m wanting to LED out my machine and also am thinking about LED OCD. Thanks !

#6541 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Tonight, the Enterprise 1701-D Topper arrives. For anyone modding one these ships, the difficulty speaks for itself. It's not perfect, or the most expensive, realistic one, but it works for me.
Hope everyone likes it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

Quoted from Trindawg:

Is there a master bulb list somewhere that someone has compiled ? I’m wanting to LED out my machine and also am thinking about LED OCD. Thanks !

Do a search in this forum - there is an awesome excel to download.

#6542 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Is there a master bulb list somewhere that someone has compiled ? I’m wanting to LED out my machine and also am thinking about LED OCD. Thanks !

If you can't find the spreadsheet to download, here's a picture of the chart (playfield only, no backbox).

STTNG Bulb Chart (resized).jpgSTTNG Bulb Chart (resized).jpg
#6543 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

If you can't find the spreadsheet to download, here's a picture of the chart (playfield only, no backbox). [quoted image]

Thank you for this!

#6544 2 years ago

So I was doing some work today on my
PF that involved taking the right side of wire forms off. Now that it’s all together agains, the right wire form loop is rattling against the glass and I can’t for the life of me get that dialed in. Sounds like crap when the ball launches. Does anyone have pics of how they get screwed down and is this one assembled correctly ?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#6545 2 years ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

Do a search in this forum - there is an awesome excel to download.

Everything you need for your STTNG LED installation!!
Complete with directions on what led goes where, in the proper colors, sizes, and flashers.
check out this link:
https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/star-trek-next-generation-ultimate-led-kit

#6546 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Everything you need for your STTNG LED installation!!
Complete with directions on what led goes where, in the proper colors, sizes, and flashers.
check out this link:
https://www.pinballbulbs.com/products/star-trek-next-generation-ultimate-led-kit

Purple much?

#6547 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So I was doing some work today on my
PF that involved taking the right side of wire forms off. Now that it’s all together agains, the right wire form loop is rattling against the glass and I can’t for the life of me get that dialed in. Sounds like crap when the ball launches. Does anyone have pics of how they get screwed down and is this one assembled correctly ?
[quoted image]

I can’t tell what you’re asking from this picture.

#6548 2 years ago

Colored GI on this game is really stupid if you don’t play in a super brightly lit room. It’s such a dark game with poor lighting to start with.

STTNG was my first LED conversion and I got the colored crap because I didn’t know any better. What a waste of money. Had to buy a bunch more bulbs after to get it bright enough to play. My gameroom is dark like the 80’s arcades were.

Cool white GI suits this game well. GI-OCD is a must to enjoy the built in effects(shields dimming).

#6549 2 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Cool white GI suits this game well. GI-OCD is a must to enjoy the built in effects(shields dimming).

That’s exactly what I‘m doing right now during my restauration. Did the same with my SWDE and my BOP, and am very happy with the results. My LAH has all white as well but in warm white - looks much more vintage. I rarely use colored LED except for certain effects (e g. the STTNG cannons or BOP‘s mouth).

#6550 2 years ago

I finally got my Machine “finished” also upgraded the sound with new speakers and pin sound. External power supply for the mods.

I custom made the pop bumpers and did the new ships, Locutus and borg ship myself.

I thought I was finished but I am getting the 5v reset so I will try using the external power as a solution. I put a PC power box in so I have enough juice.. And I have the Boards ready to fix LED GI - just need to install.

I made the Borg ship a bit too dark but in the end I love it - it’s a dark spot in the game that you forget about until the Blue flashers kick off.. awesome.

But cosmetically all finished!!! Oops nope. A color DMD is on its way…
OK - let’s call this an update then in my ongoing mission to seek out a finished STTNG

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