(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

8 years ago


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  • 429 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by radium
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#6451 74 days ago

Oh - and do something with these 2:

BE4ED40F-90BE-4BF8-89B5-86765D3DC76A (resized).jpeg
#6452 74 days ago

Close up of my custom bumper caps - I looked at the Zit ones and they are excellent but for me they covered up the bumper too much - and I like to fiddle with things like this myself..

81A0A121-ED20-4827-AB9C-71B6597994B8 (resized).jpeg
#6453 74 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Thanks, I didn't even realize it was broken.
My machine looks like this:
[quoted image]
I googled around to find what should be there, and found the picture I posted in my last post. So I thought I was missing a metal piece, but in fact it is just a broken plastic. Funny both of these machines had a piece of metal stuck there.
[quoted image]

Yeah - your clear plastic on top is also broken - I know because mine didn't even exist... it should have 2 posts up top to stop a ball from getting stuck I think.
I now have the plastic and all parts but need to dismantle loads to fit it...

#6454 74 days ago

Hey guys - is there a secret I am missing here?

I have my final missing plastic fitted but I can’t see how to get this back in the game: what screw is used here or is something hidden: on the plastic I have a standard spacer and from other images it looks like a standard screw.

But on the playfield- it screws into this hole

CF44CF63-B5D5-432A-88FD-8C9C81892FF7 (resized).jpegE8CC3BDC-C8DF-4721-8CFE-357C610558B0 (resized).jpeg
#6455 74 days ago

Totally different screw size

E8E861BB-7F68-47D7-9952-23B54BDBB9AE (resized).jpeg
#6456 74 days ago

Here is the original parts list for that plastic assembly. Maybe it can help you see if your parts are correct?

0AE00E42-B4DC-4B24-A8D8-425D2A2A84B1.jpeg

Mine is a mess but maybe it will help. One post screws into the ball guide (thru the big hole in plastic), the other has a nut.

300D048D-766A-4F8D-976E-056679363F78.jpegD2136120-802D-4501-8937-B093A133FD3C.jpegE1AF0E6F-2823-4408-9053-35A9A11F2389.jpeg
#6457 74 days ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

Totally different screw size
[quoted image]

So in your picture here, nut goes on the left post. The right screw screws into the ball guide.

#6458 73 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Here is the original parts list for that plastic assembly. Maybe it can help you see if your parts are correct?
[quoted image]
Mine is a mess but maybe it will help. One post screws into the ball guide (thru the big hole in plastic), the other has a nut.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect thanks.. I need to get the right screw..

#6459 73 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Tonight, the Enterprise 1701-D Topper arrives. For anyone modding one these ships, the difficulty speaks for itself. It's not perfect, or the most expensive, realistic one, but it works for me.
Hope everyone likes it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

#6460 73 days ago

Screen Capture from the animation produced for the "Star Trek Pinball Experience".
The animation (ver 16) appears on a 400x1280 resolution screen located in pinball machine, rear right corner of the playfield. Keeping with the theme of the Next Generation pinball and television series, the animation recreates a "Borg Alcove". In addition, custom sound provides for dialogue and sound effects producing a full sci-fi experience.

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#6461 73 days ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

It's been a minute since I did this. However I will look back on my Ebay purchases and find out for you. It was a used "Playmates" toy from Ebay. Adding the led lighting (at least for me) was sorta hard. There has been several extensive postings (on Pinside) about making this mod. I never could get the engine cells open. And it's a rather important thing to do. Because the toy comes with tiny lamps, NOT leds. So burning them out is a major danger.

Also another thing to overcome is when adding the leds, unless you line the inside of the saucer with aluminum foil, or paint it multiple times with layers of black paint, the leds with shine through the plastic, making it look dumb.

Finally, I wish I had obtained thinner wire for the lighting runs, because space is a premium. Oh, lastly. The engine cells have electrical connectors in them which are easily damaged.

This is a HIGH on the difficulty scale to do. If you could purchase a model with designed kit lighting, it will save you tons of frustration.

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#6462 73 days ago

last year (!) my son was playing my game and shouted from the basement that it was on fire.
Found out the hard way that the tieback mod was not done.
I have tried to fix the old board, no go. I have bought a new board and coil. I have done the tieback mod with the tieback going to J08 as suggested
at pinwiki.

I have checked all my fuses, all good. still, all the diverter coils are dead.
I bet this has come up like 100 times, but I am stumped. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

#6463 73 days ago
Quoted from Axl:

last year (!) my son was playing my game and shouted from the basement that it was on fire.
Found out the hard way that the tieback mod was not done.
I have tried to fix the old board, no go. I have bought a new board and coil. I have done the tieback mod with the tieback going to J08 as suggested
at pinwiki.
I have checked all my fuses, all good. still, all the diverter coils are dead.
I bet this has come up like 100 times, but I am stumped. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

Check that your coils are ok
- Verify the resistance of your coils against their specs https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
- Make sure the plungers can move freely in the coils
Check that you have voltage at the coils

#6464 72 days ago

Hiya all. So my quest to solve the 5 switches out on my STTNG continues…(all 5 switches are on the same switch matrix, the 3 neutral zone switches and the ramp entry switches for Alpha and Beta). So I dropped a new backup power driver board into my game to see if that was the trouble, same thing - game works fine except those 5 switches. Hoping that narrows it down for you smart/tech guys. Is it one of the 5 switches that’s bad? Anything else to check? Thanks!

#6465 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

a new backup power driver board

Switches are wired to the MPU not the PDB. I'd try swapping the MPU if you have a spare.

#6466 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Hiya all. So my quest to solve the 5 switches out on my STTNG continues…(all 5 switches are on the same switch matrix, the 3 neutral zone switches and the ramp entry switches for Alpha and Beta). So I dropped a new backup power driver board into my game to see if that was the trouble, same thing - game works fine except those 5 switches. Hoping that narrows it down for you smart/tech guys. Is it one of the 5 switches that’s bad? Anything else to check? Thanks!

Those 5 switches connect to the MPU via J207-2, check the connector and wire connectivity from the J207-2 to the first switch

#6467 72 days ago

Nearing the conclusion of building "Star Trek - The Pinball Experience"
Includes:
* Latest Software LX-7
* PinSound Plus with 5 sound packages
* PinSound Headphone Station
* Digital 2.1 Enhanced sound with PinSound speakers
* Color DMD
* LED OCD
* GI OCD
* Borg Figure (two) custom interactive led (3) mods
* Romulan Ship (Hallmark) custom interactive (3) leds mod
* Klingon Ship (Hallmark) custom interactive (7) led mod x2 ships
* "Borg Alcove Display" with 25 minutes of hd media (version 16)
* "Borg Alcove Interactive Sound" (version 16)
* "Romulan Empire Alcove Display" with 24 minutes of hd media (version 12)
* "Left Active Menu Display"
* "Right Active Menu Display"
* "Star Trek Media Experience Display" with 1 hour 32 minutes media
* "Star Trek Pinball Experience Display Header" with 1 hour 30 minutes 4-plex video wall media (version 7) with sound
* "Dual Live Cannon POV Cameras mod with interactive live displays
* "Star Trek LCARS Display"
* "POV Live Camera Display" featuring live gameplay hidden by right ramp
* 12 Subwoofer audio reinforcement for PinSound
* Sound Bar and Subwoofer sound reinforcement system for Borg Alcove Sound Display
* "Variable Speed Control Mods" for Cannons
* Extensive additional playfield lighting and enhancements
* NEW Power Driver Board
* New Mini 8 Driver
* New Display Driver Board
* New CPU Board with NVRAM
* New Flipper Driver
* New - Updated Opto Driver Board
* New Opto Transmitters / Receivers (16 sets)
* New - Updated Opto Ball Trough Board set
* 3 HD Media Players for video playback
* 4 HD Raspberry Pi Zero systems for video playback
* Rio Grand Shuttle Mod (Hallmark)
* Cardassian Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* Goddard Shuttle Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* Ferengi Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* Borg Cube Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* 1701-D Enterprise Ship Mod (Hallmark)
* 1701-D Enterprise Ship mod with customer leds (Playmates)
* Rebuild and functional coin door
* Mick's Pinball LASER mods for Cannons
* Mick's Pinball LED Mods for Cannon Lamps
* Mick's Pinball Start Mission LED Mod
* Back Alley Custom Borg Ship and Cannon Paint Mods
* Video screen media / animations account for 3 months of research, development and production.
* Update Ball Trough
* Tie Back mods
* Matching Dual Led Speaker mods
* Customer Subwoofer speaker cabinet
* All coils rebuilt
* Pop Bumper LED toppers
* Custom Ramp Lighting x3
* Custom Illuminated Star Posts x9
* Illuminated LED Lock
* LED downlighting below cabinet
* Starfield / Nebula Projectors x2
* Custom LED Backglass Illumination
* STTNG Side Blades
IMG_20210814_101558 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101603 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101610 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101619 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101712 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101728 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101838 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101846 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101859 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_102027 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_102033 (resized).jpg

#6468 72 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Hiya all. So my quest to solve the 5 switches out on my STTNG continues…(all 5 switches are on the same switch matrix, the 3 neutral zone switches and the ramp entry switches for Alpha and Beta). So I dropped a new backup power driver board into my game to see if that was the trouble, same thing - game works fine except those 5 switches. Hoping that narrows it down for you smart/tech guys. Is it one of the 5 switches that’s bad? Anything else to check? Thanks!

Since you’re in the area it would be possible to try your MPU in my machine to confirm if your MPU is still fine. As long as it’s ok then more likely a wire off under the playfield or some other issue.

If it is something in your machine I have a friend in the area that does in home service. He is the best around, fair priced, and highly recommended.

#6469 71 days ago
Quoted from Walamab:

Switches are wired to the MPU not the PDB. I'd try swapping the MPU if you have a spare.

I misspoke. I replaced the MPU. The board on the left with the batteries on it. That one is fine, both are working the same. So the issue isn’t the MPU. If not the board, what would be affecting those 5 switches?

Thanks. Sorry for the confusion.

#6470 71 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Since you’re in the area it would be possible to try your MPU in my machine to confirm if your MPU is still fine. As long as it’s ok then more likely a wire off under the playfield or some other issue.
If it is something in your machine I have a friend in the area that does in home service. He is the best around, fair priced, and highly recommended.

Thanks! It’s definitely not the MPU. I replaced it with a new one and it’s the same, 5 switches out. I’ll check the connections on all 5 switches again. If I can’t fix it, I’ll take you up on the help. Is your friend Clay or Parker? Or someone else?

Thank you.

#6471 71 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I misspoke. I replaced the MPU. The board on the left with the batteries on it. That one is fine, both are working the same. So the issue isn’t the MPU. If not the board, what would be affecting those 5 switches?
Thanks. Sorry for the confusion.

Have you checked the connector pin J207-2 and tested the wire connectivity from J207-2 to the daisy chain of 5 switches?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/130#post-6442831

#6472 71 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Thanks! It’s definitely not the MPU. I replaced it with a new one and it’s the same, 5 switches out. I’ll check the connections on all 5 switches again. If I can’t fix it, I’ll take you up on the help. Is your friend Clay or Parker? Or someone else?
Thank you.

Take a look at these 2 connectors. They are where your green wire with a red stripe travels to end at the neutral zone 45 degree switches. The first is right where the harness attaches to the playfield and is a 4 pin connector. E5279D4A-1327-4F72-83A9-CC21D68D61C1 (resized).jpeg The second is a two pin connector near the neutral zone switches. 187D3CD4-352B-4057-85FF-AF0D168BCC56 (resized).jpeg

I suspect you’ll find a problem on the first 4 pin connector.

#6473 71 days ago
Quoted from RellikJM:

Take a look at these 2 connectors. They are where your green wire with a red stripe travels to end at the neutral zone 45 degree switches. The first is right where the harness attaches to the playfield and is a 4 pin connector. [quoted image] The second is a two pin connector near the neutral zone switches. [quoted image]
I suspect you’ll find a problem on the first 4 pin connector.

Thank you so much, I’m going to check this tomorrow for sure. I’ll share what I find. I really appreciate the help!

#6474 71 days ago
Quoted from Manny65:

Have you checked the connector pin J207-2 and tested the wire connectivity from J207-2 to the daisy chain of 5 switches?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/130#post-6442831

I’m going to check this out tomorrow too, and hopefully find the problem. Thanks so much for your help!

#6475 71 days ago

I love all the nice helpful people on Pinside. Like the family I always wanted.
I just did the tie back wire mod. Thanks everybody.

#6476 71 days ago
Quoted from tonyf1965:

I love all the nice helpful people on Pinside. Like the family I always wanted.

Oh boy. Just don’t venture outside of this thread and you’ll be fine.

#6477 71 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Oh boy. Just don’t venture outside of this thread and you’ll be fine.

Yup. There be dragons.

#6478 71 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Oh boy. Just don’t venture outside of this thread and you’ll be fine.

Quoted from oradke:

Yup. There be dragons.

Trolls, trolls everywhere

#6479 71 days ago

Romulans / Borg / cards... Not trolls or dragons.

#6480 71 days ago

Where to buy cabinet decals for this one?

#6481 69 days ago
Quoted from RellikJM:

Take a look at these 2 connectors. They are where your green wire with a red stripe travels to end at the neutral zone 45 degree switches. The first is right where the harness attaches to the playfield and is a 4 pin connector. [quoted image] The second is a two pin connector near the neutral zone switches. [quoted image]
I suspect you’ll find a problem on the first 4 pin connector.

Thanks to Manny65, RellikJM and Pin_Guy, and others, for pointing me in the right direction. I checked everything from J207 to the switches and all seemed fine. But the 5 switches wouldn’t work. I noticed the obvious replacement of the connector at J207, so I checked the quality of each wire seated into the connector. Sure enough, a loose wire in the first or second position. I’m not sure the proper permanent fix, but I did my best to push the wire in tightly and…voila. All 5 switches came back. I had my original MPU board checked, but the problem wasn’t the board, but the connector. Thanks to all for your wisdom.

B8452594-2182-4070-B9F6-16B706F95D8D (resized).jpeg
#6482 69 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Sure enough, a loose wire in the first or second position. I’m not sure the proper permanent fix, but I did my best to push the wire in tightly and…voila.

You really need to replace that connector then.
Either do as suggested by others and get the proper 0.100 idc tool and re-pin the IDC connector.
Or do as I usually do and replace with a crimped on connector - I hate IDCs for exactly the reason you just found. "looks good" but isn't.

#6483 69 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Where to buy cabinet decals for this one?

Mr Personality should sell them but a quick search on his site revealed nothing.
Retro Refurbs also doesn't appear to have them listed.
Pinball.Center does have them in stock (at the moment)
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/star-trek-the-next-generation/9957/cabinet-decal-set-for-star-trek-the-next-generation?c=0
but forewarning they will not ship to the USA and cannot vouch for the quality of the product. Seek advice here.

#6484 69 days ago
Quoted from radium:

Where to buy cabinet decals for this one?

Get in touch with user 'xianek'

#6485 69 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

You really need to replace that connector then.
Either do as suggested by others and get the proper 0.100 idc tool and re-pin the IDC connector.
Or do as I usually do and replace with a crimped on connector - I hate IDCs for exactly the reason you just found. "looks good" but isn't.

Looks like the repair Pinkitten is referring to was to replace the IDC with a crimp connector already so I wouldn't go back to that. If the problem was that the molex pin just wasn't seated far enough into the connector that's not a huge deal but if it's an iffy crimp you may have to get pull that pin out (tough to do without the proper tool but can be done with a very fine pointed object) and re-crimp a new one onto the wire.

#6486 69 days ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Looks like the repair Pinkitten is referring to was to replace the IDC with a crimp connector already so I wouldn't go back to that. If the problem was that the molex pin just wasn't seated far enough into the connector that's not a huge deal but if it's an iffy crimp you may have to get pull that pin out (tough to do without the proper tool but can be done with a very fine pointed object) and re-crimp a new one onto the wire.

That’s the problem, as best I can tell. It’s working right now, so I’ll keep an eye on it and replace that connector at some point. It will be good practice. Thanks again!

#6487 69 days ago

Figured I'd share this here. My kid always loved this game.. waited years until we found one we could afford at the right time. Told him it would be a great flex to do a blind shuttle sim in a tournament, so he worked on this for a while.. finally captured it

#6490 68 days ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I noticed the obvious replacement of the connector at J207, so I checked the quality of each wire seated into the connector. Sure enough, a loose wire in the first or second position.

I'm glad you finally got this resolved; thanks for posting what your found.

#6491 68 days ago

This has been posted before. The STTNG Tie Back Mod

8DriverModPinWiki1 (resized).png

#6492 68 days ago

The Subway Documentation

subway (resized).JPG
#6493 68 days ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

The Subway Documentation
[quoted image]

What is this picture from?

#6494 68 days ago
Quoted from radium:

What is this picture from?

That's part of the Williams GREEN parts catalog.
https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/foky/

#6495 65 days ago

The lights in the back box are dim and will not change to bright when starting a new game. Is there a setting in the menu that I can adjust to keep it from dimming, or do I have other issues at hand.

#6496 64 days ago

What does LED 3 on the driver board used for and how should it be lite? Mine is off and on in no pattern at all.

#6497 64 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

What does LED 3 on the driver board used for and how should it be lite? Mine is off and on in no pattern at all.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

#6498 64 days ago

Thank you sir! I found that LED3 provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn't very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates.

So I'm back to try understand why the backboard lights are very dim.

#6499 64 days ago

I know your problem sounds different. I had a few rows of lights out. In my back box. It was loose connection wire idc connector.
Try wiggling the wires I don’t remember which connector it was. It was a 11 pin IDC connector bottom of power board. I put new connector in. All good now.

#6500 64 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Thank you sir! I found that LED3 provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn't very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates.
So I'm back to try understand why the backboard lights are very dim.

Check the voltage going to the backbox lights?

There are 6731 posts in this topic. You are on page 130 of 135.

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