Oh - and do something with these 2:

BE4ED40F-90BE-4BF8-89B5-86765D3DC76A (resized).jpeg

Close up of my custom bumper caps - I looked at the Zit ones and they are excellent but for me they covered up the bumper too much - and I like to fiddle with things like this myself..

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Yeah - your clear plastic on top is also broken - I know because mine didn't even exist... it should have 2 posts up top to stop a ball from getting stuck I think.
I now have the plastic and all parts but need to dismantle loads to fit it...

Hey guys - is there a secret I am missing here?

I have my final missing plastic fitted but I can’t see how to get this back in the game: what screw is used here or is something hidden: on the plastic I have a standard spacer and from other images it looks like a standard screw.

But on the playfield- it screws into this hole

CF44CF63-B5D5-432A-88FD-8C9C81892FF7 (resized).jpeg

E8CC3BDC-C8DF-4721-8CFE-357C610558B0 (resized).jpeg

Totally different screw size

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Here is the original parts list for that plastic assembly. Maybe it can help you see if your parts are correct?

0AE00E42-B4DC-4B24-A8D8-425D2A2A84B1.jpeg

Mine is a mess but maybe it will help. One post screws into the ball guide (thru the big hole in plastic), the other has a nut.

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D2136120-802D-4501-8937-B093A133FD3C.jpeg

E1AF0E6F-2823-4408-9053-35A9A11F2389.jpeg

So in your picture here, nut goes on the left post. The right screw screws into the ball guide.

Perfect thanks.. I need to get the right screw..

Hey Eric - which enterprise model is this? Am looking for one to use as a topper and this is the right size to fit next to a Borg cube..I dont want to spend a fortune on an amazing replica to break apart to put lights in...

Screen Capture from the animation produced for the "Star Trek Pinball Experience".
The animation (ver 16) appears on a 400x1280 resolution screen located in pinball machine, rear right corner of the playfield. Keeping with the theme of the Next Generation pinball and television series, the animation recreates a "Borg Alcove". In addition, custom sound provides for dialogue and sound effects producing a full sci-fi experience.

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It's been a minute since I did this. However I will look back on my Ebay purchases and find out for you. It was a used "Playmates" toy from Ebay. Adding the led lighting (at least for me) was sorta hard. There has been several extensive postings (on Pinside) about making this mod. I never could get the engine cells open. And it's a rather important thing to do. Because the toy comes with tiny lamps, NOT leds. So burning them out is a major danger.

Also another thing to overcome is when adding the leds, unless you line the inside of the saucer with aluminum foil, or paint it multiple times with layers of black paint, the leds with shine through the plastic, making it look dumb.

Finally, I wish I had obtained thinner wire for the lighting runs, because space is a premium. Oh, lastly. The engine cells have electrical connectors in them which are easily damaged.

This is a HIGH on the difficulty scale to do. If you could purchase a model with designed kit lighting, it will save you tons of frustration.

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last year (!) my son was playing my game and shouted from the basement that it was on fire.
Found out the hard way that the tieback mod was not done.
I have tried to fix the old board, no go. I have bought a new board and coil. I have done the tieback mod with the tieback going to J08 as suggested
at pinwiki.

I have checked all my fuses, all good. still, all the diverter coils are dead.
I bet this has come up like 100 times, but I am stumped. Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

Check that your coils are ok
- Verify the resistance of your coils against their specs https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html
- Make sure the plungers can move freely in the coils
Check that you have voltage at the coils

Hiya all. So my quest to solve the 5 switches out on my STTNG continues…(all 5 switches are on the same switch matrix, the 3 neutral zone switches and the ramp entry switches for Alpha and Beta). So I dropped a new backup power driver board into my game to see if that was the trouble, same thing - game works fine except those 5 switches. Hoping that narrows it down for you smart/tech guys. Is it one of the 5 switches that’s bad? Anything else to check? Thanks!

Switches are wired to the MPU not the PDB. I'd try swapping the MPU if you have a spare.

Those 5 switches connect to the MPU via J207-2, check the connector and wire connectivity from the J207-2 to the first switch

Nearing the conclusion of building "Star Trek - The Pinball Experience"
Includes:
* Latest Software LX-7
* PinSound Plus with 5 sound packages
* PinSound Headphone Station
* Digital 2.1 Enhanced sound with PinSound speakers
* Color DMD
* LED OCD
* GI OCD
* Borg Figure (two) custom interactive led (3) mods
* Romulan Ship (Hallmark) custom interactive (3) leds mod
* Klingon Ship (Hallmark) custom interactive (7) led mod x2 ships
* "Borg Alcove Display" with 25 minutes of hd media (version 16)
* "Borg Alcove Interactive Sound" (version 16)
* "Romulan Empire Alcove Display" with 24 minutes of hd media (version 12)
* "Left Active Menu Display"
* "Right Active Menu Display"
* "Star Trek Media Experience Display" with 1 hour 32 minutes media
* "Star Trek Pinball Experience Display Header" with 1 hour 30 minutes 4-plex video wall media (version 7) with sound
* "Dual Live Cannon POV Cameras mod with interactive live displays
* "Star Trek LCARS Display"
* "POV Live Camera Display" featuring live gameplay hidden by right ramp
* 12 Subwoofer audio reinforcement for PinSound
* Sound Bar and Subwoofer sound reinforcement system for Borg Alcove Sound Display
* "Variable Speed Control Mods" for Cannons
* Extensive additional playfield lighting and enhancements
* NEW Power Driver Board
* New Mini 8 Driver
* New Display Driver Board
* New CPU Board with NVRAM
* New Flipper Driver
* New - Updated Opto Driver Board
* New Opto Transmitters / Receivers (16 sets)
* New - Updated Opto Ball Trough Board set
* 3 HD Media Players for video playback
* 4 HD Raspberry Pi Zero systems for video playback
* Rio Grand Shuttle Mod (Hallmark)
* Cardassian Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* Goddard Shuttle Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* Ferengi Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* Borg Cube Ship Mod (Eaglemoss)
* 1701-D Enterprise Ship Mod (Hallmark)
* 1701-D Enterprise Ship mod with customer leds (Playmates)
* Rebuild and functional coin door
* Mick's Pinball LASER mods for Cannons
* Mick's Pinball LED Mods for Cannon Lamps
* Mick's Pinball Start Mission LED Mod
* Back Alley Custom Borg Ship and Cannon Paint Mods
* Video screen media / animations account for 3 months of research, development and production.
* Update Ball Trough
* Tie Back mods
* Matching Dual Led Speaker mods
* Customer Subwoofer speaker cabinet
* All coils rebuilt
* Pop Bumper LED toppers
* Custom Ramp Lighting x3
* Custom Illuminated Star Posts x9
* Illuminated LED Lock
* LED downlighting below cabinet
* Starfield / Nebula Projectors x2
* Custom LED Backglass Illumination
* STTNG Side Blades
IMG_20210814_101558 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101603 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101610 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101619 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101712 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101728 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101838 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101846 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_101859 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_102027 (resized).jpgIMG_20210814_102033 (resized).jpg

Since you’re in the area it would be possible to try your MPU in my machine to confirm if your MPU is still fine. As long as it’s ok then more likely a wire off under the playfield or some other issue.

If it is something in your machine I have a friend in the area that does in home service. He is the best around, fair priced, and highly recommended.

I misspoke. I replaced the MPU. The board on the left with the batteries on it. That one is fine, both are working the same. So the issue isn’t the MPU. If not the board, what would be affecting those 5 switches?

Thanks. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks! It’s definitely not the MPU. I replaced it with a new one and it’s the same, 5 switches out. I’ll check the connections on all 5 switches again. If I can’t fix it, I’ll take you up on the help. Is your friend Clay or Parker? Or someone else?

Thank you.

Have you checked the connector pin J207-2 and tested the wire connectivity from J207-2 to the daisy chain of 5 switches?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/130#post-6442831

Take a look at these 2 connectors. They are where your green wire with a red stripe travels to end at the neutral zone 45 degree switches. The first is right where the harness attaches to the playfield and is a 4 pin connector. E5279D4A-1327-4F72-83A9-CC21D68D61C1 (resized).jpeg The second is a two pin connector near the neutral zone switches. 187D3CD4-352B-4057-85FF-AF0D168BCC56 (resized).jpeg

I suspect you’ll find a problem on the first 4 pin connector.

Thank you so much, I’m going to check this tomorrow for sure. I’ll share what I find. I really appreciate the help!

I’m going to check this out tomorrow too, and hopefully find the problem. Thanks so much for your help!

I love all the nice helpful people on Pinside. Like the family I always wanted.
I just did the tie back wire mod. Thanks everybody.

Oh boy. Just don’t venture outside of this thread and you’ll be fine.

Yup. There be dragons.

Trolls, trolls everywhere

Romulans / Borg / cards... Not trolls or dragons.

Where to buy cabinet decals for this one?

Thanks to Manny65, RellikJM and Pin_Guy, and others, for pointing me in the right direction. I checked everything from J207 to the switches and all seemed fine. But the 5 switches wouldn’t work. I noticed the obvious replacement of the connector at J207, so I checked the quality of each wire seated into the connector. Sure enough, a loose wire in the first or second position. I’m not sure the proper permanent fix, but I did my best to push the wire in tightly and…voila. All 5 switches came back. I had my original MPU board checked, but the problem wasn’t the board, but the connector. Thanks to all for your wisdom.

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You really need to replace that connector then.
Either do as suggested by others and get the proper 0.100 idc tool and re-pin the IDC connector.
Or do as I usually do and replace with a crimped on connector - I hate IDCs for exactly the reason you just found. "looks good" but isn't.

Mr Personality should sell them but a quick search on his site revealed nothing.
Retro Refurbs also doesn't appear to have them listed.
Pinball.Center does have them in stock (at the moment)
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/star-trek-the-next-generation/9957/cabinet-decal-set-for-star-trek-the-next-generation?c=0
but forewarning they will not ship to the USA and cannot vouch for the quality of the product. Seek advice here.

Get in touch with user 'xianek'

Looks like the repair Pinkitten is referring to was to replace the IDC with a crimp connector already so I wouldn't go back to that. If the problem was that the molex pin just wasn't seated far enough into the connector that's not a huge deal but if it's an iffy crimp you may have to get pull that pin out (tough to do without the proper tool but can be done with a very fine pointed object) and re-crimp a new one onto the wire.

That’s the problem, as best I can tell. It’s working right now, so I’ll keep an eye on it and replace that connector at some point. It will be good practice. Thanks again!

Figured I'd share this here. My kid always loved this game.. waited years until we found one we could afford at the right time. Told him it would be a great flex to do a blind shuttle sim in a tournament, so he worked on this for a while.. finally captured it

Mr Pinball (Aust) has them https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/star-trek-next-generation-cabinet-decal-set/

Forgot about them, thanks

I'm glad you finally got this resolved; thanks for posting what your found.

This has been posted before. The STTNG Tie Back Mod

8DriverModPinWiki1 (resized).png

The Subway Documentation

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What is this picture from?

That's part of the Williams GREEN parts catalog.
https://online.fliphtml5.com/vrtyz/foky/

The lights in the back box are dim and will not change to bright when starting a new game. Is there a setting in the menu that I can adjust to keep it from dimming, or do I have other issues at hand.

What does LED 3 on the driver board used for and how should it be lite? Mine is off and on in no pattern at all.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#LEDs_and_test_points_on_WPC-089_Power.2FDriver_Boards

Thank you sir! I found that LED3 provides an indication of high/low line voltage. This LED isn't very useful as it will flicker as power consumption by the game fluctuates.

So I'm back to try understand why the backboard lights are very dim.

I know your problem sounds different. I had a few rows of lights out. In my back box. It was loose connection wire idc connector.
Try wiggling the wires I don’t remember which connector it was. It was a 11 pin IDC connector bottom of power board. I put new connector in. All good now.

Check the voltage going to the backbox lights?