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(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise


By Pinballgeek

7 years ago



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There are 4704 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 95.
#551 4 years ago

Cool thanks!

#552 4 years ago

so I looked at the diode, it was indeed grey side to the wires, so I soldered it and flipped it, played a few games, friends came over and started playing, they didn't notice the upper flipper wasn't working, so I checked it and yep, in the tests I can't get it to work anymore. I also noticed that the wire to the upper right switch 58 was throwing an error, it is also connected via the same wire as the drop target, so I put it back, and it seemed ok, but it would keep falling off. Looking at it, it looks like when I'm putting the game back in playing position the switch is getting bashed, I don't know why. I kept putting the connector back on and then the connector prong broke off....

The upper flipper didn't change, I can't get it to work. The initial test doesn't throw a code.. I'm going to order a switch and put it in and see how I fare (any suggestions on where to go to get this?) I don't know what is going on with the upper flipper, in tests it just goes through the test and it doesn't do anything. I don't have any blown fuses

#553 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

so I looked at the diode, it was indeed grey side to the wires, so I soldered it and flipped it, played a few games, friends came over and started playing, they didn't notice the upper flipper wasn't working, so I checked it and yep, in the tests I can't get it to work anymore. I also noticed that the wire to the upper right switch 58 was throwing an error, it is also connected via the same wire as the drop target, so I put it back, and it seemed ok, but it would keep falling off. Looking at it, it looks like when I'm putting the game back in playing position the switch is getting bashed, I don't know why. I kept putting the connector back on and then the connector prong broke off....
The upper flipper didn't change, I can't get it to work. The initial test doesn't throw a code.. I'm going to order a switch and put it in and see how I fare (any suggestions on where to go to get this?) I don't know what is going on with the upper flipper, in tests it just goes through the test and it doesn't do anything. I don't have any blown fuses

so did flipping the diode fix the problem with the multiballs?

was the upper flipper ever working? does the flipper move smoothly if you move it by hand?

it sounds like the wire leading to switch 58 is getting caught on something or yanked when you lower the playfield.

#554 4 years ago

ok, I wasn't sure if there was a special way to lift the playfield and I was doing it wrong, I'll check to see what connections there are.

My machine is odd, I made the change, went to the switch test, and it seemed worse. I decided to play some games and right away it messed up. I played through, and for the next 5 games it was fine. Everything is working, things are looking great. I ate dinner with my friends, we came back, and I noticed the flipper wasn't working, I got an error for the flipper and the switch. I lift it up and the switch is bent, I fix it, turn it back on, same problem, I lift it up, and the clip is off again and it is bent. It finally broke off, so now I have to buy a new switch. At the same time, the flipper wasn't working, it moves fine, but in tests it just doesn't move. It isn't on the same wire as the switch or anything I was working on, it is odd.

So now I need to buy a switch, and am thinking about swapping the diode back but is that just extra work or could it fix something? When this thing plays right I am going to be so thankful. Sadly I don't know what that is like.

#555 4 years ago

Issues with LED in sockets.
I'm having issues fitting any wedge LED lights on greenboard in the socket shown below. Same issue with my Dracula.
I've tried Comet, Pinball life, and a few generic #555 Wedge LEDs. Anyone know of a fix that doesn't require replacing
the socket?

GhostbusterSocketIssue_(resized).jpg

#556 4 years ago

I just went through this, it seems like the led wedges are a hair larger. I basically applied firm pressure and rocked it side to side to slowly work it's way in there. I also braced it a bit so it didn't bend since I wasn't sure if I was putting it in 100% straight. That worked for me.

#557 4 years ago

Hello guys. I want to bounce something off of ya. I have a noob theory about a problem I am having.

Left cannon. Ball doesn't always load. Instead, when the coil fires to load the cannon, the ball barely shows its face out of the chute, then falls back in the trough. As if the coil didn't fire with enough power / did not receive enough electricity. The code doesn't try to re-launch, so the game just hangs from there.

The coil is brand new. Replaced it with proper part number from marco specs.

Here's my theory. At the start of a game, the left canon almost always loads fine. But as the game progresses, I also notice that the catapult seem to not throw the ball as far (with less power also). Is it possible that I have a "leaky" bridge rectifier / cap / something?

Is that such a thing?

My main board is a rottendog, and otherwise, the pin works great.

Thoughts? Thanks for any info! Cheers!

#558 4 years ago

I had a similar issue. Turned out to be the Opto's were dirty or not working correctly. I replaced them and this is no longer an issue.

Quoted from Bendit:

Hello guys. I want to bounce something off of ya. I have a noob theory about a problem I am having.
Left cannon. Ball doesn't always load. Instead, when the coil fires to load the cannon, the ball barely shows its face out of the chute, then falls back in the trough. As if the coil didn't fire with enough power / did not receive enough electricity. The code doesn't try to re-launch, so the game just hangs from there.
The coil is brand new. Replaced it with proper part number from marco specs.
Here's my theory. At the start of a game, the left canon almost always loads fine. But as the game progresses, I also notice that the catapult seem to not throw the ball as far (with less power also). Is it possible that I have a "leaky" bridge rectifier / cap / something?
Is that such a thing?
My main board is a rottendog, and otherwise, the pin works great.
Thoughts? Thanks for any info! Cheers!

#559 4 years ago
Quoted from TechnicalSteam:

Turned out to be the Opto's were dirty or not working correctly.

Yeah? Optos in that particular trough?
Interesting. You'd think the coil would fire, or not...

#560 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

The upper flipper didn't change, I can't get it to work. The initial test doesn't throw a code.. I'm going to order a switch and put it in and see how I fare (any suggestions on where to go to get this?) I don't know what is going on with the upper flipper, in tests it just goes through the test and it doesn't do anything. I don't have any blown fuses

Re-seat the ribbon cables and molex connectors going to the Fliptronics board. Assume you checked those fuses as well, there's one for each flipper. UR is F901. Note that F902 is not used so is a spare. May have to take that board out and use a multi-meter in diode check and probe middle to outer pins on the transistors Q2 (big) and Q7 (small).

#561 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Yeah? Optos in that particular trough?
Interesting. You'd think the coil would fire, or not...

When you replaced the coil did you replace the sleeve and or plunger?

Put the game in test mode - empty all balls, collect them all but leave it in that mode and then keep feeding a ball back into that VUK, it will keep spitting them out. If the VUK strength weakens after so many ejects measure the voltage to the coil before and after the problem begins, that will tell you if you have a power supply problem or if the problem is elsewhere. I don't think this is an opto problem but I guess it could be, I'm surprised the game doesn't attempt to re-load the cannon after it fails.

#562 4 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

empty all balls, collect them all but leave it in that mode and then keep feeding a ball back into that VUK

Awesome testing idea. Feed and spit. I like it. Thanks!

Yeah, I replaced the sleeve. I did not have a plunger in stock at the time, but I do now. I'll replace it for good measure.

Quoted from bobukcat:

I'm surprised the game doesn't attempt to re-load the cannon after it fails.

Right!? The software doesn't allow for such a scenario, I guess. Thanks for your time!

#564 4 years ago
Quoted from spidey:

Re-seat the ribbon cables and molex connectors going to the Fliptronics board. Assume you checked those fuses as well, there's one for each flipper. UR is F901. Note that F902 is not used so is a spare. May have to take that board out and use a multi-meter in diode check and probe middle to outer pins on the transistors Q2 (big) and Q7 (small).

I'll try that..

sadly.. I have a multimeter, but have no idea how to set it so I can use it and what I am supposed to expect from the output

#565 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

turn it back on, same problem, I lift it up, and the clip is off again and it is bent.

What clip? Please post a picture of this problem.

#566 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

upper right switch 58 was throwing an error, it is also connected via the same wire as the drop target, so I put it back, and it seemed ok, but it would keep falling off.

What is falling off, the wire? Does it have a little pink connector that keeps sliding off the switch?

oh... it broke off

All wires should be going in towards the center of the board so they cant get pinched

right_loop_(resized).jpg

#567 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

The upper flipper didn't change, I can't get it to work. The initial test doesn't throw a code.. I'm going to order a switch and put it in and see how I fare

Each flipper button controls a pair of switches for UL, LL, and UR, LR flippers. It doesnt matter if the game has 4 flippers or not they are all there. The question is this ... when you are in switch test, does pressing the flipper button register 2 switch closures?

#568 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

What is falling off, the wire? Does it have a little pink connector that keeps sliding off the switch?
oh... it broke off
All wires should be going in towards the center of the board so they cant get pinched

yeah, basically the switch that is furthest to the right was getting pinched and the connector that the green went to broke off..

I'll try the switch test now

#569 4 years ago

took another video, I hit the right and it seems ok but goes cooky

#570 4 years ago

video of the back of my change, and the messed up switch, I am wondering, sometimes when I am hitting my buttons, other things will hit. I think the trough would clunk but no balls would be in there, and sometimes the bases that the cannons are on (I don't know what they are called) they have the rubber bands on them and engage when the ball bounces on them. I notice they engage once in a while when I am flipping my flippers during play. I don't mind that, as long as I can get this thing running again

#571 4 years ago

Ok. That is almost a great an example of a crapped out Trough connector.
On my STNG; I had issues... and it turned out the connectors supplying power to both boards were shot.
IIRC, I ended up removing the IDC connector supplying power to the detector board and re-crimping fresh new connections.

I didn't do mine "right" because I left the IDC connector in place for the signals... and only replaced the power connectors.

To verify; with your PF slide out and resting on the lockdown bar... wiggle the idc connector while in that switch test. If I'm right; you'll see the optos go wonky again.

This would be supported by the fact that the right flipper is directly over the trough and is "vibrating" the loose power connections.
Wiggle Me

#572 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

To verify; with your PF slide out and resting on the lockdown bar... wiggle the idc connector while in that switch test. If I'm right; you'll see the optos go wonky again.

Exactly what I suggested earlier. The wires on the molex connector going to the trough board receiver is flaky. You can see all the opto switches cycling. You'll need to use your fancy schmancy new soldering iron to splice in some new wire segments, then connect them using this tool:

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1590

You have to push pretty firmly for the wire to engage in the connector.

#573 4 years ago

That PBL tool... is good for one or two connectors.
Which is why I almost always go for broke and install new crimp style connectors using this tool:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0638111000/WM9999-ND/243789

#574 4 years ago

I agree that power is cutting out to one/both of the opto boards. It could also be upstream in the 12V unregulated circuit coming from the power driver board. I had a similar problem and traced it to tarnished pins/plugs on J112. I replaced the header and the plug, and all has been good. The 12V unregulated circuit isn't too complicated to debug and it is at least easy to see if that is where the problem is by watching LED1 on the power driver board. If it is dims or periodically goes out when you get the whole set of optos being triggered, you know that is where the problem may likely be (or upstream in the transformer).

#575 4 years ago

I have a few issues it looks like

IMG_20160601_205903540_(resized).jpg

#576 4 years ago

Also, the led on this one is off, if I remove the red and black wire the led turns on, is that an issue?

IMG_20160601_211137951_(resized).jpg

#577 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

I have a few issues it looks like

Such a long troubleshooting session for a defect that's completely obvious at one quick glance...

For the eddy board (your second picture post): The LED lights up when a ball passes the sensor (the thing plugged into the eddy board that looks like an IDC connector) on the top of the playfield. It's supposed to be off when it does not detect a metal object (=ball).

Stop looking for other errors. Repair the trough connector. Probably all of your errors will disappear then. You need to understand that there are many interdependencies with switches in pinball machines - this one flaky connection can produce all kinds of strange behavior in completely different areas of the pin.

#578 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Such a long troubleshooting session for a defect that's completely obvious at one quick glance...
For the eddy board (your second picture post): The LED lights up when a ball passes the sensor (the thing plugged into the eddy board that looks like an IDC connector) on the top of the playfield. It's supposed to be off when it does not detect a metal object (=ball).
Stop looking for other errors. Repair the trough connector. Probably all of your errors will disappear then. You need to understand that there are many interdependencies with switches in pinball machines - this one flaky connection can produce all kinds of strange behavior in completely different areas of the pin.

ok I'll check that out. I just got into pinball so I'm trying to sort all of this out. I saw this before but was not getting the credit dot or test reports so I figured it was good. I still don't get credit dots...

You think I get this corrected it'll make the upper flipper work?

#579 4 years ago

No problem, we all started from where you are.
Luckily there are forums that provide help in these cases and help you learn.

No idea if that has anything to do with the flipper (didn't read those posts), but you should always repair the obvious defects first, see what works afterwards and then take the next step if something is still not right. Go step by step, repair what you can and report back the outcome.

It'll work in the end, don't worry.

The credit dot thing is a very simple system that just registers if something (mainly switches) is not working at all. You also get a credit dot if you just play so bad that you never hit certain switches within an certain amount of games, so the game thinks they are not registering. Your problem is a flaky connection, so the switch IS registering, just not always or not for the right reason. Usually these are the hardest things to find - if they're not as obvious as your trough connector, that is.

#580 4 years ago

The upper flipper should be tackled after you get the opto board working right...
I'm about 90% sure it has nothing to do with the optos... nor the eddy board as neither should affect the flippers.

I'd look to make sure the flipper is "plugged" it... and that it's power connectors are "burnt".
At that point; I'd verify the power is there... and driver transistor is ok. The fact that is doesn't move at all indicates to me that you have a power/transistor issue.

#581 4 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Yeah, I replaced the sleeve. I did not have a plunger in stock at the time, but I do now. I'll replace it for good measure.

Right!? The software doesn't allow for such a scenario, I guess. Thanks for your time!

Have you:
Cleaned the opto?
Made 100% sure the plunger is always correctly sitting in home position when not active?
Does the spring on the plunger still have enough tension or has it aged?

Any new findings?

That the vuk tries to eject the ball only once is something typical for that error (which is a mechanical problem in most cases, usually the plunger not resetting correctly or balls piling up in the vuk). My wild and unprofessional theory to that is that since STTNG can store balls in those vuks, it just cannot know if the ball it detects is the one it originally wanted to fire or if it's a new ball coming from the subway.

In most games the standard state of the vuk is "no ball present" so it's only logical that such a game will try to relaunch the ball until the vuk is empty. The normal state of the vuk in STTNG is "ball present", so the logic above doesn't apply.

#582 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

That PBL tool... is good for one or two connectors.
Which is why I almost always go for broke and install new crimp style connectors using this tool:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0638111000/WM9999-ND/243789

Seriously? What are you doing with your tool? I punched every single IDC in STTNG with that tool and its fine.

#583 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

You think I get this corrected it'll make the upper flipper work?

nope. That is a separate issue

#584 4 years ago

All these Troubleshooting topics really should be posted in the TDM (Tech modern games) forum.

#585 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

All these Troubleshooting topics really should be posted in the TDM (Tech modern games) forum.

then what would we post in here ?

#586 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Seriously? What are you doing with your tool? I punched every single IDC in STTNG with that tool and its fine.

It's not just me... everyone I've discussed this with tends to agree. The plastic tool just fails after a few connections.
But; it's possible my Neanderthal paws are making it worse.

#587 4 years ago
Quoted from someoneelse:

Does the spring on the plunger still have enough tension or has it aged?

Probably not! It's all wimpy! Yes! Concept here! If the spring is too wimpy, it's possible that the plunger doesn't return to the fully closed position. If this happens, it has less momentum/travel for the next time the coil fires! I do have another brand new super-stiff spring. I will replace it and give it a go! Thanks!

#588 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

It's not just me... everyone I've discussed this with tends to agree. The plastic tool just fails after a few connections.

maybe I just got a good one, or they are just making them out of cheaper plastic This past weekend I hammered in some 16awg wires into a 22-24 socket for test plug and its still okay

#589 4 years ago

anyone know the part for this? I think it is this, I called marcospecialties, and they couldn't confirm

https://i1.pinside.com/8/ff/8ff629629d5a486aa0476eeb5ba3d510efca1869/resized/740/8ff629629d5a486aa0476eeb5ba3d510efca1869.jpg

#592 4 years ago

Yeah, PBL has great prices and I always try them first, but they don't carry every little part. Marco is great for hard-to-find stuff. Plus, their site is a great reference for parts.

Marco does tend to have higher prices, as you've seen.

#593 4 years ago

Get it from pinrestore, this is where is got mine http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html you can get the .156 and .100 for $30

EDIT: That's a good price from Pin Life ... I shop there a lot as well, you should pick up both sizes while you are buying things. The IDC connector is $0.30 http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1597

Don't forget the polarizing key http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1629

#594 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Get it from pinrestore, this is where is got mine http://www.pinrestore.com/Tools.html you can get the .156 and .100 for $30
EDIT: That's a good price from Pin Life ... I shop there a lot as well, you should pick up both sizes while you are buying things.

do I have the right part for the piece? it is a 5 pin connector right?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-05

#595 4 years ago
Quoted from ibjames:

do I have the right part for the piece? it is a 5 pin connector right?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-05

get it from pinlife so you can get everything from the same source of supply ... I linked it above

#596 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

It's not just me... everyone I've discussed this with tends to agree. The plastic tool just fails after a few connections.
But; it's possible my Neanderthal paws are making it worse.

Agreed -- the IDC "pusher" that pinball life sells does not last a long time. I bought one from digikey/mouser which has lasted a LONG time and then eventually upgraded to a gun style from AMP/TYCO because I was making a lot for the pinduino mod harnesses and wanted something that was MUCH faster to use.

#597 4 years ago

STTNG restoration finally complete, the last thing I had left was replacing the old scratched up speaker panel graphic. I actually ended up buying a new wood panel from VirtuaPin http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=116 for $30.

IMG_1724_(resized).JPG

#598 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

STTNG restoration finally complete

Nice!

Progress for me. I have replaced the plunger and the spring for the left launcher coil. The sleeve is new also. New spring is way stronger, almost too strong? It's also red. Weird. Anyways, I did as recommended and fed a ball in the vuk while in eject-balls mode. At first, it did not work. The ball was barely peeking out of the shoot again. Started feeding 2 balls in there. Eventually it worked. Just played 2 games with 2 Borg encounters and the left launcher loads correctly. Perhaps the spring is settling/weakening a little with use and that's why it now works? I'll play and see if it holds. I strongly dislike solutions that are doubtful. Cheers!

#599 4 years ago

What do you use those for?

#600 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

STTNG restoration finally complete, the last thing I had left was replacing the old scratched up speaker panel graphic. I actually ended up buying a new wood panel from VirtuaPin http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17&products_id=116 for $30.

do you have a shaker in that?

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