(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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  • 552 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by jibmums
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There are 10,264 posts in this topic. You are on page 119 of 206.
#5901 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Thanks.
I wonder (sometimes out loud) - why more people aren't interested in my PopCaps for this game.
They just aren't selling like the stern version I sold for years.

I think those look good too. May pickup a set when I get to the playfield. Need to order other parts for the game but haven’t made a detailed list yet of what ill need for that.

#5902 2 years ago

Looking for the correct length of the threaded standoff that supports the wireform at the end of the Delta ramp. A part number for that would help. If it’s in the manual then I’ve overlooked it.

#5903 2 years ago

Where can I get that runabout shuttle ?

#5904 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Looking for the correct length of the threaded standoff that supports the wireform at the end of the Delta ramp. A part number for that would help. If it’s in the manual then I’ve overlooked it.

02-4935-3

#5905 2 years ago

Thank you!

#5906 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So I’m trading my Star Wars Pro for a STTNG tomorrow. I’m really excited. I’ve been wanting. STTNG for a very long time. I’ll be posting lots of questions. What do u guys think of the trade?

I guess it comes down to a simple truth. Star Wars is good science fiction, but it's just not real like Star Trek.

#5907 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Thanks.
I wonder (sometimes out loud) - why more people aren't interested in my PopCaps for this game.
They just aren't selling like the stern version I sold for years.

Once I put them on my Stern ST, I knew I had to have them for my STTNG. Well worth the purchase.

16249206772012004713928297738732 (resized).jpg16249206772012004713928297738732 (resized).jpg
#5908 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Where can I get that runabout shuttle ?

It's a Hallmark Rio Grand Lighted Ornament

#5909 2 years ago

Ok so after investigating the pinsound addon, I have come to the conclusion: I need this in my life!!!! But where can I get one? Pinsound’s website is down at the moment. Also, the guy I traded this game with, told me that basically I could get the pin sound board for free if I swapped out my original sound board. This sound right ?

#5910 2 years ago

Nope.

#5911 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

Once I put them on my Stern ST, I knew I had to have them for my STTNG. Well worth the purchase.
[quoted image]

Things like this are the reason I think that this Star Trek game is going to cost me more than any of the other machines I have! Going to to a few upgrades without going too overboard. There are lots of small touches that look like they coule have been on the machine from day one.

#5912 2 years ago

So which is better? The NEO board or the PLUS board?

#5913 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So which is better? The NEO board or the PLUS board?

The PLUS. Not only are there extra features it is supposed to have a lifetime warranty vs 2 years of the NEO. This link has a table with a side by side comparison of features:

https://www.pinsound.org/pinball-sound-boards-neo-plus/

I'm not aware of any trade in deals but you can probably find a buyer for your original DCS sound card to offset the cost.

#5914 2 years ago

In all honesty, a full Pinsound package will set you back a few hundred dollars. About 800 if you go the full route with pinsound+, shaker, headphones station and new speakers. I've just done all that with my STTNG, and it is AWESOME (I had to redo the shakerisation though, the stock one isn't so great). You could try and recover some of the cost by sacrificing your original sound board, but I'd strongly advise against that. Your machine is worth more when you retain all the matching original parts.

#5915 2 years ago
Quoted from oradke:

In all honesty, a full Pinsound package will set you back a few hundred dollars. About 800 if you go the full route with pinsound+, shaker, headphones station and new speakers. I've just done all that with my STTNG, and it is AWESOME (I had to redo the shakerisation though, the stock one isn't so great). You could try and recover some of the cost by sacrificing your original sound board, but I'd strongly advise against that. Your machine is worth more when you retain all the matching original parts.

A few hundred? The plus board is over 400. Where can I get one cheaper

#5916 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

A few hundred? The plus board is over 400. Where can I get one cheaper

I haven't priced them lately, but I picked up my Plus for $369.95 and the 2.1 Speaker Kit for $129.95 back in February direct from the Pinsound guys in France. Plus $80 shipping (yikes). But it arrived in less than a week and I've been a very happy camper since getting it installed and making my own custom STTNG mix.

#5917 2 years ago
#5918 2 years ago

Yeah that’s a better price then what I was seeing on pinsound’s web site

#5919 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Yeah that’s a better price then what I was seeing on pinsound’s web site

Wow...I just checked Pinsound's website and indeed, the Plus jumped $74 since I bought it on their website in February!

#5920 2 years ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Wow...I just checked Pinsound's website and indeed, the Plus jumped $74 since I bought it on their website in February!

Wonder why their prices jumped ?

#5921 2 years ago

Thanks guys for pointing me in the direction of planetary pinball’s site. Got it much cheaper there and cheaper shipping as well. Only thing I forgot to grab is a flash drive. Should I get the one pinsound recommends or what do u guys recommend? I tried to find the usb drive that they sell on Amazon and I could only find it in usb 3.1

#5922 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

So which is better? The NEO board or the PLUS board?

You want the PLUS board (don't cut corner on this upgrade)

#5923 2 years ago

So I am discovering the more standard size 32" diagonal screens are slightly to large to fit into the 27 1/4" W x 17 1/2" H space on the header of a WPC pinball. The width seems to run about 28 1/2 inches wide. It's been suggested if possible to locate a 30" diagonal screen (off standard but better sized. Has anyone on this page replaced their backglass with an 1080HD display? Also, if so, how did you actually mount it while providing access to the header electronics?? Thank you so much.

(photos are not mine, just examples of ideas)

198f6a29ec4b399a96db96c1f93a42e85b9307ce_2_375x500 (resized).jpg198f6a29ec4b399a96db96c1f93a42e85b9307ce_2_375x500 (resized).jpgunnamed (resized).pngunnamed (resized).png

#5924 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Wonder why their prices jumped ?

Almost certainly the Chip shortage.

#5925 2 years ago

I had Pinsound plus and speakers in my last STTNG and I never thought the sound quality was good enough, I have had a few others with Pinsound and they have sounded great. Tried all the sound packages and all the tone settings, speech was also too low. I often wondered if they sent me some duff sounding speakers.
Going to just add some speakers and maybe connect up to my pinnovators mixer running a 400w 15”sub

#5926 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

So I am discovering the more standard size 32" diagonal screens are slightly to large to fit into the 27 1/4" W x 17 1/2" H space on the header of a WPC pinball. The width seems to run about 28 1/2 inches wide. It's been suggested if possible to locate a 30" diagonal screen (off standard but better sized. Has anyone on this page replaced their backglass with an 1080HD display? Also, if so, how did you actually mount it while providing access to the header electronics?? Thank you so much.
(photos are not mine, just examples of ideas)
[quoted image][quoted image]

I have to say it makes no sense to ask this question in this thread. Go into some of the virtual pinball threads and ask over there.

#5927 2 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

So I am discovering the more standard size 32" diagonal screens are slightly to large to fit into the 27 1/4" W x 17 1/2" H space on the header of a WPC pinball. The width seems to run about 28 1/2 inches wide. It's been suggested if possible to locate a 30" diagonal screen (off standard but better sized. Has anyone on this page replaced their backglass with an 1080HD display? Also, if so, how did you actually mount it while providing access to the header electronics?? Thank you so much.
(photos are not mine, just examples of ideas)
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would love to see something like this happen!
You need to ask some of the Virtual pin forums exactly how large a 32" monitor is when the plastic case is removed.
32 is i think going to prove impossible - even if you try an ultrathin monitor and take the plastic cove off. A 32" monitor with "no bezel" is around 73cm wide and you only have 69.2CM to play with.
If you check the Virtual pinball forums - when they do a widebody Virtual pin, they use 32" screens in the Backbox - but the backbox is always wider than the lower cabinet.
I think that even a 31 inch is going to be hard - 31inch is a rare bird these days - 31.5 is available..

Dell makes a 30 incher monitor - 68.69cm wide - Ultrasharp UP3017. older version if you can find one 2nd hand - U3011 it was 69.45 cm wide..
the U3011 is available on Ebay for around $250..

Fitting - I would go down the computer monitor route - you can then use the Vesa mount and bolt it to a swing-out metal plate - hinged onto the backbox
The thinner the better..

I think the bigger worry would be the depth? Plus the TV will be pumping heat out backwards..

a 27Inch monitor would leave 4.5CM on either side and the modern ones are nice and thin - you could do a custom fixed LCARs style frame around it printed onto plastic panel to blend the screen in - could look pretty authentic because you were always going to have black bars/gaps above and below the screen anyhow.
also with a 27" monitor - you have the space to use the 4.5Cm to build a holding frame to slot it into...

I always think bigger is better, but in this case - a little smaller might make your life a thousand times easier..

a 20" screen would be perfect but I haven't seen one...

#5928 2 years ago

Where can I get a list of all screws/fasteners that are used on this pin? I’ve been changing some of the post rubbers and noticed some of the screws look old and need replacing.

#5929 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Where can I get a list of all screws/fasteners that are used on this pin? I’ve been changing some of the post rubbers and noticed some of the screws look old and need replacing.

Download the STTNG Operations Guide and Parts List: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2357

#5930 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Where can I get a list of all screws/fasteners that are used on this pin? I’ve been changing some of the post rubbers and noticed some of the screws look old and need replacing.

I have purchased the catch all hardware kit. It covers quite a bit of the hardware and screws you run into when working on a machine.

https://www.pinballlife.com/big-bag-of-everything.html

#5931 2 years ago
Quoted from TimBoch:

These are the original lane guides from my STTNG. I replaced them after about a month with the extended lane guides.
[quoted image]

I bought the original extended lane guides from the someone in the The Netherlands back in the rgp days.

Quoted from Trindawg:

Yeah that’s a better price then what I was seeing on pinsound’s web site

They must have just raised prices because I bought direct for $369.95 on the 16th. Wouldn’t be surprised to see a price hike at Planetary soon.

#5932 2 years ago
Quoted from Gingerbloke:

I would love to see something like this happen!
You need to ask some of the Virtual pin forums exactly how large a 32" monitor is when the plastic case is removed.
32 is i think going to prove impossible - even if you try an ultrathin monitor and take the plastic cove off. A 32" monitor with "no bezel" is around 73cm wide and you only have 69.2CM to play with.
If you check the Virtual pinball forums - when they do a widebody Virtual pin, they use 32" screens in the Backbox - but the backbox is always wider than the lower cabinet.
I think that even a 31 inch is going to be hard - 31inch is a rare bird these days - 31.5 is available..
Dell makes a 30 incher monitor - 68.69cm wide - Ultrasharp UP3017. older version if you can find one 2nd hand - U3011 it was 69.45 cm wide..
the U3011 is available on Ebay for around $250..
Fitting - I would go down the computer monitor route - you can then use the Vesa mount and bolt it to a swing-out metal plate - hinged onto the backbox
The thinner the better..
I think the bigger worry would be the depth? Plus the TV will be pumping heat out backwards..
a 27Inch monitor would leave 4.5CM on either side and the modern ones are nice and thin - you could do a custom fixed LCARs style frame around it printed onto plastic panel to blend the screen in - could look pretty authentic because you were always going to have black bars/gaps above and below the screen anyhow.
also with a 27" monitor - you have the space to use the 4.5Cm to build a holding frame to slot it into...
I always think bigger is better, but in this case - a little smaller might make your life a thousand times easier..
a 20" screen would be perfect but I haven't seen one...

We went with a 23" Eizo in our STTNG project. I think 23" or 24" FHD monitors are a sweet spot to have screen that is big enough and a backglass or translite that still has some more space left for a design.

#5933 2 years ago

Super excited for this weekend! Ordered some goodies for my machine and they’ll be here for my long weekend. Got my pinsound board coming Saturday and some
Other goodies I ordered coming in today and tomorrow. Better yet, today’s my Friday! Woohoo !

#5934 2 years ago

I’m trying to find purple rollover lane guides for my machine. I cannot find them
Anywhere for the life of me. Marco does not carry them.

#5936 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Pinball.center carry purple?

Yep - just got a full purple set from them - lane guides, posts, pop bumpers..
All ready for in a year when I have finally gotten round to a full teardown…

#5937 2 years ago

Check Planetary Pinball (combined with Bay Area Amusements):

03-8318-18

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-03-8318-18&Category_Code=LG

#5938 2 years ago

Oh Man! Thank you for this ! I was going crazy trying to find it!

#5939 2 years ago
Quoted from Trindawg:

Oh Man! Thank you for this ! I was going crazy trying to find it!

If you are struggling to find a replacement part you can use https://www.pinballsearch.com which will specific search all major pinball suppliers around the world of the part number or description you are wanting. For example https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=03-8318-18

#5940 2 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

If you are struggling to find a replacement part you can use https://www.pinballsearch.com which will specific search all major pinball suppliers around the world of the part number or description you are wanting. For example https://www.pinballsearch.com/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=03-8318-18

Wow! That is awesome ! You guys rock!

#5941 2 years ago

I have my game running well but still need to replace several more IDC connectors and clean up some wiring. Normally people ask why something isn't working but after cleaning up more wiring issues and hacks than normal a more appropriate question is how did it ever work?

After rebuilding the Fliptronics board, Taking out the leaf switches and putting the correct opto boards for the flipper buttons and putting new connectors there. That restored the upper right flipper. Played a few games ok. The left flipper stopped working. Took a closer look at the wiring by the fliptronics board and the IDC under the ribbon cable had a few of the wires sitting in there but not pushed down all the way. Looks like the prior owner tried redoing those wires but barely made contact. I am going to replace that as well as a few other IDC connectors and will go over every one of the others. That should make it solid. Was focusing on the biggest issues first and then working the rest.

This is a really fun game.

#5942 2 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I have my game running well but still need to replace several more IDC connectors and clean up some wiring. Normally people ask why something isn't working but after cleaning up more wiring issues and hacks than normal a more appropriate question is how did it ever work?
After rebuilding the Fliptronics board, Taking out the leaf switches and putting the correct opto boards for the flipper buttons and putting new connectors there. That restored the upper right flipper. Played a few games ok. The left flipper stopped working. Took a closer look at the wiring by the fliptronics board and the IDC under the ribbon cable had a few of the wires sitting in there but not pushed down all the way. Looks like the prior owner tried redoing those wires but barely made contact. I am going to replace that as well as a few other IDC connectors and will go over every one of the others. That should make it solid. Was focusing on the biggest issues first and then working the rest.
This is a really fun game.

One of the first things I do when trying to solve issues is check fuses and reseat ribbon cables, and then check the IDC connections. So many problems have been solved by simply checking these things first. I have read so many times here on pinside of people replacing expensive circuit boards to find it wasn't the problem in the first place.

Here is an example of one of my pins where the previous owner couldn't figure out why it wasn't working right. He spent weeks and $$ trying to fix it. It was just a botched IDC repair.

20210628_101248 (resized).jpg20210628_101248 (resized).jpg
#5943 2 years ago
Quoted from Scoot:

One of the first things I do when trying to solve issues is check fuses and reseat ribbon cables, and then check the IDC connections. So many problems have been solved by simply checking these things first. I have read so many times here on pinside of people replacing expensive circuit boards to find it wasn't the problem in the first place.
Here is an example of one of my pins where the previous owner couldn't figure out why it wasn't working right. He spent weeks and $$ trying to fix it. It was just a botched IDC repair.
[quoted image]

Totally understand! I do check the wiring and that is on the list to go back over and tidy up. For the wiring I looked it over to make sure there wasn't obvious shorts of things that would damage the boards. Then I go right to the board work as that is my specialty.

I didn't swap boards around as I typically fix the originals if possible. I installed a couple boards that were missing and then did all my normal board service (an magic) to make sure the rest of the boards would be ok and they would be solid. The fliptronics board had a couple missing parts. The driver board had some wrong parts installed, A couple of the large caps were loose (that was new) and I recapped that whole board. Fixed a connector and repinned GI connector that had been soldered to the driver. Rebuild the trough opto's to fix those. Cleaned up some hackish prior work on the MPU and added NVRAM, recapped the sound board. Fixed the 8 driver board and installed the updates on that. Only boards I didn't need to touch was the DMD as that had been replaced with a newer board and the 16 opto board. For me once I have known good boards it helps me track down open wiring issues. Still going to repin and replace any questionable connectors. I will not use IDC's when I replace them, I hate those connectors. I'll use the more traditional molex.

Need to pull out the whole playfield to fix a few things on the cabinet and plan on dealing with the rest of the wiring issues then. In the meantime I'll probably at least redo the worst offenders. An example is the cluster in the image below. Taped up the exposed solder blobs temp until I get the new connector for that. There were some other wires that were cut (probably for troubleshooting) and then just twisted together. Those will all be soldered with heat shrink.

I believe my game was a re-import from France. Explains a lot of the things I am fixing. But, in the end it will be a nice machine and I am really happy to finally own one of these games.

20210617_134117 (resized).jpg20210617_134117 (resized).jpg
#5944 2 years ago

Also found that when a prior owner replaced the EOS switches they messed up. On the right many of the times it misses the switch and doesn't actuate the switch because the alignment is off. That is on the list for this weekend to address that.

I'm sure I'll find more things on this game to fix.

#5945 2 years ago

I’ve used lane extenders on a previous STTNG but found it only helped slightly, saw this the other day done by a well known parts seller here and thought that will work. Only downside would be the ball would disappear under the plastic a bit but you can’t really see that side anyway.

772FC48B-EDE7-4C91-9D17-76CF110D7229 (resized).jpeg772FC48B-EDE7-4C91-9D17-76CF110D7229 (resized).jpeg
#5946 2 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Anyone know where I can get a working proximity board for the lane returns? I couldn't find it when I looked last year and the aftermarket piece I got was the wrong thing. If anyone has an extra one or has successfully replaced theirs, please let me know.

Quoted from Mathazar:

Proximity board = Eddy board? If that's what you're talking about, here's where I got mine: ebay.com link: itm It took forever to get here (nearly 5 weeks....Australia to Denver) but it works great in my STTNG, the guy who makes them has great service, and it's not that expensive. Listing shows he has 2 left but he's still making them so that number should go up.

Quoted from Manny65:

Here's Tangle's website URL https://www.tanglestech.com/TPP-1023 if you want to get them direct. I've not used his STTNG board but worked with him on the MB eddy board - great bloke and his boards work well.

So I got the tangles "SMART EDDY board" to replace the non working proximity board making my left inlane hurry up not work. You have to spend 2 minutes to read the instruction manual and change some jumpers, but it was in and working 100% in about 5 minutes. 10/10 would recommend. Took 17 days to get from Australia to the Unites States with their cheapest shipping option.

20210702_160034 (resized).jpg20210702_160034 (resized).jpg
#5947 2 years ago

Do you still have your old board? Maybe it can be fixed. One of mine wasn't working and ended up replacing one of the transistors to fix it.

#5948 2 years ago

Has anyone installed these replacement to star posts on their machine? I’m thinking of trying them out but want to see if anyone else has tried them out so I can see what they look like

F4FDBC51-7915-4214-A66C-CD7F5D95DE42 (resized).jpegF4FDBC51-7915-4214-A66C-CD7F5D95DE42 (resized).jpeg

#5949 2 years ago

Hey guys,

I have an intermittent problem with my left cannon loader. It seems like it is firing the balls out at a slight angle and the ball will miss the cannon completely and either go down the left out lane or, worse it will get stuck in the apron.

I have been trying to find a solution, but most of what comes up in searches deals with the canon itself...

Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks.

#5950 2 years ago

So I’m trying to find out how many Star posts are on my game, and I referenced the manual , but it doesn’t say how many posts there are. It just lists it. Unless the “#8” is the quantity ? Anyone ?

4EB75436-29D0-4B23-8131-55B4F85676D6 (resized).jpeg4EB75436-29D0-4B23-8131-55B4F85676D6 (resized).jpeg
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