Great thank you for confirming this is expected behaviour.

Kind of an interesting situation. I would think a switch on the hole would make sense (ala Pinbot vortex), but perhaps this makes getting the neutral zone too easy?

Was having trouble with my trough, one of the opto’s was activated when it shouldn’t have been, turns out one of the transmitters was faulty. The receiver picked up infrared from the sun and made life easy.
Have stripped the playfield for a clean up and have flame polished the ramps, adding protectors. Stripped the canons as they were corroded and tumbled them, came out pretty good. Waiting for new looms to arrive. Taking my time on this.
Should have a custom proper back glass arriving this week, bought machine without one and never really liked the original so was a good time to get one I liked.

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Well, in about two years I should have a phenomenal topper. I just subscribed to the Eaglemoss Enterprise D build series.

When things start arriving I'll definitely start posting build progress on it. I've done an ungodly number of plastic kits of various subjects.... including a quite nice USS Defiant (with full lighting, I even did blinking running lights!). This will be my first big die-cast build. Should be fun! I'm a bit worried it may be TOO big though. Since the parts dribble through with a delivery every week or so it will be 2022 before I really have a good handle on the size of the final build.

I had been debating between doing an Enterprise-D for a topper, or a Refit (Motion Picture / Wrath of Khan style), and decided that only a D would be appropriate for this machine. I could have done the AMT/ERTL kit, but wanted to do a subscription diecast for a while, so now I wait for the first parts to arrive.

-Hans

Has anyone reproduced the cannon wiring harnesses using the super flexible noodle wires? I can see that in one of the cannons a couple wires were abandoned in the harness and a couple individual replacement wires run. At some point I'll want to install fresh sets but since it moves so much they should be made with the super flexible wires. If no one is making them then I may just build my own set.

Great, these are a bargain at $10 each.

Yes its needed for this assembly regardless of where you buy the parts.

Pinball Heaven in the UK make them with a lifetime guarantee if installed as per their instructions, waiting for mine to arrive so not sure what cables are used.

I honestly believe the cannon harness is more robust that most people think. Several of you are probably already shanking your and saying Pin_Guy has finally lost his marbles .... but hear me out.

Before restoring my STTNG I read a lot of information on this and my machine also had a harness that was questionably repaired so I spent a good deal of time investigating this to answer the "Why" question on this high failure rate and I concluded the following:

1) The cannon on this game does rotate yes, but it only moves around 45 degrees back and forth a few time per game if it moves at all.

2) The cannon harness itself really doesn't twist at all but instead gently moves back and forth with roughly 1" of travel per cycle on a cable that's fairly long in length.

3) If the cannon assembly is put together wrong, or the cable is routed incorrectly, or worse both of these things happen at the same time then a great deal of stress will be put on the cannon wires and they will likely break in a short amount of time.

4) My damaged cable that was cut apart and repaired was the likely result of a canon repair that involved removing the cannon from the game and not properly routing the cable when it was reinstalled. The cable in the other canon appeared to be original and that cannon looked like it had never been worked on but like many other parts of this machine it had its own intermittent issues.

Fact: Replacing this cable fixes almost all cannon issues; this is undeniable.

But saying that the cable wiring was the issue is shortsighted and ignores corroded connectors and cracked solder joints as likely causes even though these are the two biggest issues you find on these older machines; replacing the cable corrects all of these as this cable has eight wires all of which are soldered in place on the cannon side and go to three connectors under the playfield. By merely replacing this cable you just cycled all three connectors (minor cleaning action) and redid all eight of the solder points; any of which could have been the actual issue. Lets not forget that the actual metal part of the cannon that all of the parts with soldered on wires connects to contains a baby ball trough with optos on each side and a high powered AE23-800 coil which makes this whole mechanism a high vibration device.

Based on my own research and conclusions in this matter the original cannon loom was removed, cleaned, inspected, and reinstalled back in my machine during the complete restoration on my own machine where it is working flawlessly after 28 years in service.

You're totally right about all the possible issues that can come up and I need to resolve many of those on my game too. Plenty of cold solder joints, cut/spliced wires, and some connectors where the wires came out of the IDC plug and others just soldered right to the board. I'm going to undo every hack on my game and put it right. My cannon harness is also damaged, had some extra individual wires run, and should be replaced.

I have no doubt that if the original harness is installed correctly it would last a long time. But it has been a long time and since I have to replace it anyway thought it is worth asking if there is a better alternative. Personally I think the noodle wire would be an upgrade and should never need to be replacedit again. (Another game that needs it even more is the helicopter in Rescue 911) Anything that moves constantly can benefit. You can prolong it if you have the proper slack in the cables. I've run into a similar issue on the Makerbot style 3D printers when an axis starts to shift. Wire breaks causing an intermittent open and it starts missing an occasional step. I've seen it happen on a printer under 200 hours and others go for a couple thousand hours. Keep extras on hand and treat it as a consumable until I make a better version for that as well. Replaced the one on the printer I use most twice now. That gets a lot more movement so that is more prone to happen. Also had it happen in gripper assembly for certain robots that move quite a bit.

I'll be fine with putting in a fresh set of regular cables for the cannons but if there is a better option i'll give that a go first.

Now it the prefect time to replace those pop bumper parts with brand new skirts, bases, and caps.
http://pinball.click/PopBumperCFG
Its also a great time to replace the caps all together:
http://pinball.click/stngPopCaps
Installed
This picture was before I got the new skirts and bases injection molded.

Let me know what you think. I subscribed last year and have gotten 3 boxes. I haven't opened a single one yet.
I have seen some headlines of people building it on Youtube; but haven't watched a video.

Let me know what you think. I subscribed last year and have gotten 3 boxes. I haven't opened a single one yet.
I have seen some headlines of people building it on Youtube; but haven't watched a video.

Looks like it's 2-3 weeks for the first parts to start arriving, so some anxious waiting at the moment.
I've been reading through a blog that somebody has been running on his build and it looks pretty well engineered from what I can tell.
Since it's a blend of 5 different studio models (2ft, 4ft, 6ft, CGI, large primary hull), there's going to be some variations.

He's only up to stage 14 in his blog, and IIRC there's about 100 stages. So it'll take a while for sure.
I do really like how they handled the lighting with smaller sections each getting their own LED and light piping to help keep lighting consistent and avoid hot spots.

https://myenterprised.com/

Does anyone happen to know the screw size for mounting the flipper opto boards on the inside of the cabinet? Looks like there should be 3 screws on each one. If I had to guess I would expect a #6 or #8 screw 1/2" or 3/4" long. Mine were missing.

Not 3/4... That would punch thru the cabinet.
Prolly 3/8inch at the max

3/8" does sound about right.

QUESTION:
Has anyone heard any follow-up on Soren's progress updating the STTNG Firmware Code? Planetary Pinball will distribute the revision, when available.
Thoughts?

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Soren has an agreement with PPS to produce updated B/W code and so far has released CFTBL 5.0, Junk Yard 2.0, Radical 3.0, and Red & Ted's Road Show 7.0. While there has been plenty of suggestions on his thread (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/official-williams-and-bally-software-upgrades) as to the games that need updates, Soren has not stated what games he is now working on or even which games he plans to update.

I’ve been wanting to come up with a way to liven up the Enterprise’s engine lites on the playfield. Just having a stagnant lit bulb for each engine just doesn’t cut it. I tried Comet’s Fire bulbs but they don’t look good because the socket is flat and the bulb’s effects aren’t seen. I just installed Mick’s engine lites and they’re perfect! I wish I could post a video but I can’t. Here’s a pic of them but it really doesn’t show the effect. I’ve also been on the fence about his laser canon mod thinking they’d look great but make the shots too easy. Well I figured the game kicks my butt as it is, might as well do the laser mod anyway. I must be a real crappy player cuz these lasers haven’t helped me one bit, but I at least the game looks better! I think both of these mods are perfect for this game, not over the top and easily reversible if desired. Thanks for hooking me up Mick!

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Nice. I feel like for me it's all timing from when the phaser movement begins. But I guess with the lasers you could calibrate them to your reaction time and adjust for the ball travel time etc?

The timing isn't hard, you just fire the cannon when it's centered over the top corner slingshot screw and you make your shot every time.

I think it’s my eyeglasses. Yeah that’s it, I need a new prescription!

It's because if you wait for the laser to be there it's already too late :p

My new back glass arrived today, bought the machine with no translite or glass. Never liked the original translite so was a good opportunity to fit a proper back glass and new design which looks great, to me anyway. Goes full width so no trim needed on the sides.

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Here is the video I produced for Mick

This is the FINAL version (5) of this lengthy mod creation. Dual Menu Screens for the Star Trek Next Generation Pinball machine. These appear in the lower left and right corners of the apron.
The Menu Screens are now synced, old crappy graphics removed, new ones added, and both menus work together at times. I even have a tribute to the original Star Trek Motion Picture with the WARP Field Effect at the end. So if you've been tracking this project, and have an interest, enjoy.

Those look great! Are there multiple LEDS on each one? How much are they?

Nice collection of unsmartphones

I loved my old Siemens mobiles, was either throw them all away or hot glue them to the wall in the garage lol

Went to change a GI bulb between the rollovers and the bulb felt wobbly in the socket, with no spring pushing it back upward. I lost 5 bulbs, including the 2 in the coin door. It definitely was a bad socket, see pic below. I ordered a new one and will swap it out next week. Should that bring all 5 lights back? Or did the socket ground failure cause a short and harm something on the board? I guess I’ll find out when I replace the socket?

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Had the same thing happen with a couple GI sockets on a Flash that I had. Replace the socket and can troubleshoot from there. May have taken out a fuse.

With the plastic flipper bracket 1/2” #8 worked perfect for mounting the flipper opto boards. Installed those, cleaned up the flipper wiring, put on new connectors for those boards, and went through the flipper board. All three flippers now work.

Just need to track down why F105 is blowing and then I should be able to play a game.

Permission to come aboard?

I wanted to start my collection with STTNG for years. Has been my favorite pinball since the first time I played it. This is such an active group, I know I will learn a lot and eventually share my knowledge too. Cheers!

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So I’m trading my Star Wars Pro for a STTNG tomorrow. I’m really excited. I’ve been wanting. STTNG for a very long time. I’ll be posting lots of questions. What do u guys think of the trade?

I’ve seen pictures that show a graphic that can stick on the vertical board in the back of the playfield. Looks like a nice addition. What are the options for that and where is everyone getting them

Both games are great and a lot of fun to shoot, I don't know the condition of the machines involved but in general I'd say you got the better end of the deal, you definitely got the heavier end of it!

I would personally trade a SW pro for a nice STTNG any day. STTNG is such a loaded game, with fantastic rules and amazing theme integration. The sound and light show is great. This game is growing on me the longer I own it. It’s a top 10 pin for me. So much pinball in one machine. Congrats on your trade!

May I constructively suggest taking the worthwhile time read from the beginning of this 118 page blog. All of your questions will likely be answered, in addition to hundreds of great ideas you have yet to think of.

I did, and it's time well spent.

What are some mods that you guys think are essential on this game? I know I’m wanting to get the lighted borg ship for sure. But aside from that, what are your thoughts on other essential mods ?

Eric , thank you for the suggestion. I will try but I have a very busy schedule and can’t commit to reading 118 pages, as much as I’d like to. I’ll do my best but I’m still going to ask questions. Thanks for the suggestions.

Nice advances on the ENTERPRISE NCC-1701-D ship (On the left lane WARP FACTOR Also)

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After installing the new flipper opto boards, new connectors there, undoing wiring hacks, replacing the drop assembly, and going through the boards I have my game playing! I forgot just how fun this game is and am looking forward to spending time playing this. It is definitely an awesome machine.

Have another batch of parts ordered and need to spend time making it pretty. Need to pull the playfield to work on the cabinet then can move it in the basement next to Dr Who and Bride of Pinbot. I guess now the real work starts on it.

Colordmd a must.
I have a few others to suggest, but they would sound like a advertisement.

Looking great

Here you go, these have been the most popular...

Mick
https://www.mickspinball.com/pinball-kits

I just ordered the sticker set for the VUK and the red alert sticjer from you which I think will look really good.

Just got my STTNG down into my game room today! It was scary getting it here though. Had to haul it in the rain in my pickup. It was covered very well though with blankets and tarp. So it got here nice and dry. Upon inspection, I noticed I’m gonna want to replace the glass. Scratches on it and I want a nice new one. Any recommendations on where to buy new glass? Also. How do I get my plastic ramps nice and shiny again? They are dusty and pretty dull looking.

$100 from Marco but you may be able to find it cheaper from a local glass company...just make sure its tempered glass.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/08-7028-1

Search for Flame Polishing ... I'm not going to provide details on this as it can be a destructive process if done incorrectly.

somehow FANTASTIC just doesn't seem to be enough....hummm super fantastic?!

Cable management day....ugh

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QUESTION:
Has anyone replaced their WPC Pinball Backglass with an HD Monitor? I want to keep the Color DMD laptop / speaker configuration currently in the machine. Interested in the model/brand/size screen you went with. Also the specific details related to mounting.
Thought this would be an extremely cool mod, allowing for animated graphics / video instead of the traditional plastic.

Thoughts?
Suggestions?
Ideas?
thanks in advance for your kind advice and help.

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Thanks.
I wonder (sometimes out loud) - why more people aren't interested in my PopCaps for this game.
They just aren't selling like the stern version I sold for years.

Have you looked at what the guys' use that build DIY virtual pins? They reuse a pinball cabinet and have a monitor to display the BG/translite of the game being played, so they'd know what monitors fit and how best to install them. I know Aussie Arcade have a virtual pinball sub-section in the pinball forum https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/pinball