I have both at home but haven't tried the LED version on STTNG. I like the large dot mode on the LCD. LED is WAY brighter though.

I have seen several machines with the LCD on "smooth" mode, I guess. And I really don't like the way it looks. I definitely want the dots look. And I would think the LEDs would look more "authentic"

FWIW, I went with LCD. I prefer the "smoothness" of it vs. the "brightness" you get with LED. It's all subjective, just depends on what you like to see. There's no wrong answer with this particular debate.

I am not on smooth mode. There are 3 modes. Original, XL dots, and smooth. I don't like the 8-bit graphic look of the smooth mode at all.

Definitely agree on Pinsound+shaker. I took the Shark ultimate mix and replaced the main theme with the one from ST The motion(less) picture, since that was what the STTNG theme was derived from. I may post my version to the pinsound forum.
Also GI OCD is a must for great dimming effects in Borg multi ball.

In test switch mode pressing the flipper buttons registers the full sequence for flipper. I didn't try touching the coils but I will the next time I've got the game on. The weakness appears on maybe a second or third shot, first one after a bit usually works well. Perhaps promising...

Just as an update - I checked and cleaned the flipper optos, and additionally replaced the remaining original one with a new one ( so now both flipper opto boards are gulf repros and there are 2 black diverters). This did not make a difference.

I refurbished just the top right flipper, as that's the one that was really hard to make it up the delta ramp. As you may know the flipper kits do not include the bushings, so those got ordered and I replaced that one and checked everything else was clean and good. No drastic improvement on performance. I went through and refurbished the bottom pair too including coil sleeve, EOS, pawl, bushing. Not much improvement there either.

I also replaced the trough board as the infra LEDs on there were looking tired and there was signs of previous repairs - this was a long shot because the original board was working appropriately. No change on flippers either.

Noticed the coils are FL11629 on right side flippers, FL-17636 on left. They all feel weak so I'm thinking the coil difference is probably not it.

Any other ideas?

Pinsound quality is meh? 2.1 Digital Stereo with multiple sound track mixes? meh? It's not really just an improvement to the original sound, it's entire sound replacement. Equal to the upgrade of a color dmd. Pinsound is a drastic enhancement to your machine.

Sometime the pivot arm might need replaced, do to the wear of where the set screw lands. I haven't seen any documentation in detail. However you'll soon be able to determine by looking into the clear sides of the subway, just where the diverter arms need to be set, to change the ball direction.

Positive thoughts, STTNG is a complex machine to work on, but it's magical when you've got is adjusted

Thanks mate! Just to be clear, to adjust the diverter, one must unscrew the set screws? Am I correct? The screws on mine seems to be difficult to move, thats why I am asking. Thanks again!

I think he might mean the current sound quality of his STTNG is "meh", hence he might look into a Pinsound upgrade....

"I might look in to a Pinsound upgrade as well, the sound quality is kinda meh."

I'll add that upgrading to Pinsound was a game changer for me as well. With the stock sound system, the majority of the audio came out of the left speaker only....so much so that I thought there was something wrong until I found an STTNG onsite at a location and it did the same. With Pinsound, full 2.1 stereo and at a louder volume, it's quite immersive. I'm having fun making my own sound packages, too. Almost ready to post mine to the Pinsound community.

Congratulations Captain, you have chosen wisely. Welcome to the group!

The LED version of this looks amazing in STTNG and was the right decision for me. I actually installed both the LED and LCD at the same time in my machine to help me with this decision. Since I preferred the LCD set to XL Dots to start with the bright vibrant colors of the LED really made this a no brainer.

Of course is a personal decision and you will have to decide what you like best in your display.

I did link a video of this testing in this forum:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/61#post-5022232

Here is fantastic information for STTNG owners, or any other similar Williams/Bally pinball owners. If you've wanted to upgrade your speaker quality to betters ones (like PinSound) but are dealing with the tweeter mini speaker issue, your problem is solved.

You DON'T have to cut your panel, or block up the speaker hole with the downsizing adapter plate.
VirtuaPin Cabinets makes an exact panel replacement, with the 5.25in holes already cut. All the other t-nuts and holes drilled too.
If that wasn't cool enough, this will standardize the hole to match the led speaker mods out there (they don't make them for the smaller hole.
How much?? $29.......You'll pay $14 for shipping.

This is legit, and extremely worthwhile when upgrading your machines.
https://virtuapin.net/

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Fired up my STTNG today, first time in a while... I was having a great first game, then all of a sudden the trough solenoid stopped working. Went into test and two others also weren't working, so altogether #9, #11 and #16 are out.

I've replaced F104 as a precaution, was was fine. Now I'm struggling to think what fault could impact random solenoids. Any ideas?

Cheers.

2 quickies:

1. Are the cannons supposed to have a ball loaded automatically before/when the game starts? By loaded I mean a visible ball in front of the cannon.

2. Switch nr. 35 "under left lock sw. 2", is it supposed to be closed or open when there is no ball there?

So basically if someone could take a pic of the switch test matrix in the menu (to see what switches are actived) once all balls have been placed correctly.

Thanks!

When did you test and replace the optos??, if you don't know then it's time to replace the optos

What optos do u mean? Subway?

So basically if someone could take a pic of the switch test matrix in the menu (to see what switches are actived) once all balls have been placed correctly.

Ravve, I believe this is what you’re looking for:

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Thought I would see if you decided to work on this mod further?? Found a resource for blank speaker panels.
would love to talk to you further on this.
E

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Check for a broken coil power wire (VIO-ORG) at SOL10 (Right Slingshot)

EDIT: If your Top Diverter (Sol15) is working, then I may be mistaken.

I was referring to the standard sound system that comes with the machine not being very good. Not that the pinsounds aren't very good.

Sure, the misunderstanding is it's just better speakers. This is what I hear from people. Or, they've added a subwoofer or amp. Star Trek The Next Generation was fantastic in 1993, with full range subwoofer, midrange and tweet. Original cast recordings for the machine, nothing could compare to it.

27 years later, PinSound and it's user/creator base of fans, are creating digital stereo, multi track new mixes for the machine. At least 10 packages currently exist for free download. I would suggest going out to YouTube and doing a search for Star Trek, Next Generation Ultimate Mix PinSound.

Xtraball Thank you, that ws exactly was I am looking for Are the balls placed where they are supposed to be in your image (have they been sent out to their places?).
I am asking because I found another pic after I had made my post (see below) that shows just like your image, but with the difference that switches nr 36, 37 and 41 should be active once the balls are sent to their locations automatically , making switch nr 61-63 inactive. Is that correct?

switches (resized).jpg

Wow @pin_guy... You were spot on about the wire!

I've seen you help out countless times with this game, including myself in the past. In my opinion you are Pinside royalty and if I could I would buy you several beers! (or synthehols!)

Cheers again dude!

Ravve, 1st pic is balls staged, game ready to be played. 2nd pic is all 6 balls completely out of the machine. Both pics are with the coin door open.

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Mick's Pinball has developed a NEW MOD for the Star Trek Next Generation pinball. Animated Dome Flashers
Coming soon!

Quite nice! Much better than static flashers.

Mick's Pinball - Star Trek Next Generation Engine Lighting Mod
Coming Soon:

extraball cheers man, thatvwas exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!

Mick's Pinball - Star Trek Next Generation Start Mission LED Mod
Coming Soon:

Someone plz help! This is driving me crazy! I thought the lower diverter was causing the ball to get stuck, although it is working fine, at least in test mode.

Aftee viewing the footage, I am not sure that the diverter is the problem? Ball gets stick there in every game I play. Seems that something is blocking its way, maybe the gun popper?

The ball gets hung at 1:04.
Help a desperate man

Basic question: Is your game level and at the correct pitch of 6.5 degrees? Doesn't seem like it.

Each of these upcoming mods from Mick's is cool on its own, but I wouldn't want all three in my STTNG at the same time....it'd be too distracting. If I had to pick just one, I think I'd get the Engine Lighting Mod. The pulsing seems appropriate in bringing the engine "to life" while being nice and subtle.

Maybe removing the subway and cleaning it might help? I’m not saying it’s dirty, but if the game doesn’t need to be raised in the back, it might be the next step and it’s not hard to do.

Yeah, this looks like a simple physics / gravity issue.

I did think the same, but raised the back legs to the maximum, and lowered the front legs. Still same issue.
We can assume it is not a diverter misalignment issue, right?

Just realized that maybe I made the incline too high by doing what I wrote above. I will measure it and do it correctly tomorrow. Cheers!

Maybe. The ball looks like it has plenty of speed coming down the subway but then is bounces at at the corner robing it of its momentum. I wonder if the ball diverter could be doing this? If you manually move is does is snap right back or seem sluggish from dried grease, a weak spring, or maybe both?

Ball path view:
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Other thoughts:
I couldn't help but notice your game has the wrong diverter coils installed, these should be AE-25-1000 coils.

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Thanks!
The diverter snaps back just fine. I loosened the set screws to adjust it, thinking that could be the issue but it didnt help. On the other hand, I really dont know in what position the diverter arm should be? I just took a guess. Should the diverter slightly thouch the plastic ramp when the coil is fully extended (in "resting" position)?

yes.

Thanks! I'll check the game level and pitch tomorrow then, crossing my fingers that would be it!
Also will order the correct coils, thanks for noticing (that shouldnt cause this particular issue though, i think).

I also found this, but can't really understand what it means:

"Also - make sure the upkicker isn't blocking balls rolling from position 2 to position 1 (you have some degree of vertical adjustment). Consequently, a big enough trough divot can also stick a ball on the upkicker before it hits position 1 squarely."

Interestingly, Mick wanted to me test his mod for the Cannons. Before installing them in there, I thought I'd try them under the engine inserts. Loved them. I told him yesterday that there is a market for Animated Engines. And sent him that video. I wanted something like that forever. Currently he is producing the boards, however contact him on the Mick Pinball website, and let him know. Tomorrow I am testing a way to simply apply the mod beneath the inserts.
Love developing enhancements for pinballs!!

Looking for the one direction gate in a Star Trek Next Generation Williams pinball. The gate location is under the Borg Ship and prevents balls from entering the outlane.
A-16959 Switch Gate Assembly
a) 01-11688 Mounting Bracket
b) 12-7118 Wireform

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It's one of those parts which have slipped through the pinball cracks. And substitutes really don't work.
The part is designed to allow the ball to not go but one way around the outer lane, and if a ball hits the gate (going the wrong way), it simply slides off down into the lanes. A smaller gate doesn't quite reach the post, which allows the ball to hang there, and it's out of reach of the drop target, so cycling the coils in a ball search, doesn't do anything.

Eric

Have you posted a wanted ad in the Pinside marketplace as someone might have parted out a machine?

I did now, thank you so much
Looking for the one direction gate in a Star Trek Next Generation Williams pinball. The gate location is under the Borg Ship and prevents balls from entering the outlane.
A-16959 Switch Gate Assembly
a) 01-11688 Mounting Bracket
b) 12-7118 Wireform

It's one of those parts which have slipped through the pinball cracks. And substitutes really don't work.
The part is designed to allow the ball to not go but one way around the outer lane, and if a ball hits the gate (going the wrong way), it simply slides off down into the lanes. A smaller gate doesn't quite reach the post, which allows the ball to hang there, and it's out of reach of the drop target, so cycling the coils in a ball search, doesn't do anything.

Eric

I went with the LED Color DMD and am super happy I went the LED route. Not a fan of the LCD effects on this game. But it's all personal opinion.

We'll find out.

I bought one on Monday, it should be here by Friday.

Hi all.....new owner here. I had a weird thing happen today after installing the laser cannon mod. (also installed color DMD). The laser would not light if there was a ball in the cannon blocking the opto. I checked the voltage and I'm getting 11 volts at the motor unless the opto is blocked.....then I'm getting only 7. I checked the test point 1 and I'm getting 13 volts so that seems to check out ok. Any advice on what can be causing this voltage drop?

I have seen that post before but I cant see how that would even be a thing since the VUK coil plunger already sits well below the ball trough. The only reason the coil bracket mounting holes in this mechanism are slotted is to allow for variations in the positioning for the welded parts of the assembly from preventing the coil from fitting properly.

These images should help:
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