Looks fantastic. Is it possible to separate all four screen videos into different files? For example if I just wanted 90 mins of plasma vid.

Thanks, it would have been. But as with some things, it took a month to build and render. I had to clean the files off the system. At least YouTube hasn't removed this one yet.

It would have been awesome to have them individually, but I get that it's a long process and the space constraints. Thanks for sharing!

The LCARS interface is in full screen btw, look on page 110 of this thread for that link.

Found a couple of these in my closet while cleaning...repro STTNG trans. They are really nice, printed true photographic (not inkjet) with deep blacks. Would like to get $75 each with free shipping in the USA. If interested, please PM me. Thanks!

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Recently moved houses and got all my pins set up with no issues except of course...ST:TNG.

So with turning it on the dmd says “ground short row 1 is stuck closed”. Also says check test menu. None of the buttons to do the test menu registers so I can’t do anything there. I don’t know/think it has to deal with it but I want to add that I had got the coin door powder coated months before and had got it all together and everything seemed fine and was playable until I moved. I’m not sure where I should start looking or what I should be looking for. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Are you saying that the coin door buttons do nothing ? If so and you had the door apart you need to look there first. I think the coin door buttons are not part of the switch matrix, but are directly connected to the MPU. Make sure there is no battery damage there.

Correct, the buttons do not work. The entire machine was 100% working after putting the coin door back together but then when I packed it up and moved now I have the short and buttons not working. I will look at the coin door and see what’s going on with it. I checked the boards and they all look good and nothing seems wrong there.

The point is valid.
Are you running batteries; did they leak?
The buttons on the coin door are direct switches; not matrix switch IIRC. So if they aren't working; I'd suspect something more sinister at work,
Given a move; I'm wondering if a fragile fuse finally gave up the ghost - which is leading to the CPU not completing it's boot sequence.

Trying to figure out delayed firing from both cannons. The "mark" switch is set to open after it clears the wireforms that lead to the cannons, and both "mark" switches show as "open" as soon as I want them to in test mode, BUT in game play, the cannons don't fire until the last 1/2 to 1/3 of their swing out rotation - which is well beyond where I have the "mark" switches set. For example, the soonest the left cannon will fire, will hit the right ramp shot (can't hit mode start scoop unless I wait for cannon to return to home position and hit it on the way back, but sometimes it's too late, cannon "times out" and ball trickles out of cannon). The soonest the right cannon will fire is to hit the neutral zone hole. Wiring loom issues?

Reseat all the connectors for the switch columns and rows, then try disconnecting the opto board under the playfield and see if you can get into test mode that way. If not try leaving the rows and columns connectors disconnected and power it up that way. Also check to make sure a wire didn't get pinched / shorted out to the service rail, etc. when lifting / lowering the , etc.

I have NVRAM installed. I might not be following but are you saying to check all the fuses on the wpc board?

I will give all of that a try and see if i get some results! Thank you and I’ll report back soon.

Definitely check to make sure all the proper LEDs are lit, no fuses are blown and you have all the correct voltages from the PBD.

I'm restoring a STTNG. The cabinet decals are still nice, but the backbox decals need replacing. I've looked around and can't find the backbox decals for sale. Anyone know where I might find them?

The Star Trek Pinball Experience Cannon Cam POV Screens are installed (waiting on flat hdmi cables). Borg Cube installed, and additional screens up and running. Including the 3.5" LCARS Screen, 3.5" Popper POV Cam, 4.5" STTNG Theme Screen, and video topper ver 4.0 up and running.

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This guy does great work:
https://xianek.eu/?l=en

He has backglasses, side blades, cabinet decals, aprons etc.

Here‘s a report about a STTNG restauration with Xianek‘s decals. Text is in German, but it has plenty of pics:

https://www.flippermarkt.de/community/forum/threads/sttng-restauration-custom-decals.222629/

I’m looking to get back into the club.

With your pinside name, how did you ever leave?

Maybe a fan of the 1970's Bally Star Trek? Now looking to round out the collection?

The one I had, was loaded with too many issues. 5 years ago, I didn’t really know what I was doing with repairs. Now, I’m well versed in keeping a game working perfectly.

No interest in non DMD games.

I really wish Next Generation would get remade. I’d be all in on an LE.

I've had mine about 6 months now and upgrading with LED's, new trough boards, and Color DMD are a game changer. A ton more things/mods can be done, and I'm still tweaking the two cannons, but what a game! Good luck in the search.

That's very creative but how can you see the ball with all of those mods on there ?

No problem in seeing the ball at all. Each and every mod was located from the game play perspective. No problem in doing the Picard shot. I did relocated the Cardassian Ship from where it was in the photo.
Also, nobody can see the ball under the right ramp. But the live camera mod shows it great!

Thank you! So I have been looking through all the wires and havnt found anything out of the normal. Still have no way to access menu but you might be on to something. Checking the back box there are two led not doing what they are supposed to (I think). So I circled led3 is on and led 5 is off. I havnt been able to test anything with a multimeter yet because I have lost it but getting one later today. Could these narrow anything down?

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Are the CPU board LEDs correct? I also see you have a Judge Dredd in your collection - if it is working correctly, you'd be able to swap the power driver board to confirm whether the PDB is the issue

They are led. I done more digging and read of other games with similar issues. I unplugged wires on the cpu board and was able to get access to the test menu. Going to the test shows all but one row is short. Everything on that row works great. I have reseated everything I can find in the back box and playfield. Got nothing. I’m obviously missing something but I have been through the bottom of the play field and can find nothing. Stupid multimeter did not show today so I’m hoping it is a fuse? Any other advice?

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You have a blown fuse. Unless you've confined all good with a ohm meter

Assuming you unplugged the switch matrix wires (the white w/tracer and green w/tracer wires) at J208/J209 for your test, the odds are good you have a blown 74LS240 at U13; less likely but still possible are blown LM339s at U18 and U19 (I'd bet on U13 since all but one row is showing a short). The most likely cause is a short between the 50 volt coil supply and a switch matrix row wire (white w/tracer). I suggest you carefully check ALL under-playfield wiring to see if you can find a possible short between any white w/tracer wire and one of the heavier-gauge (18 gauge) violet/yellow, violet/green, or violet/orange wires. A wire may have come loose in transit, or perhaps a coil shifted such that one of the terminals is shorting to the metal of some mechanism.

Tonight's Mod for "The Star Trek Pinball Experience"
Cannon SPEED Control. Now able to control the "cycle time" from 4:15 seconds to 13:5 seconds. Controls are inside under the playfield, however accessible inside the coin door.

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Some inside photos

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That's insane. I wish I had that level of electronic knowledge! Maybe some day.

I just need my cannons to work properly, let alone control the speed. Nice work!

I wonder if a bad diverter under the pf could cause a ball to be stucked in the ramp? Or should the ball simply roll to another direction if the diverter dont work?

Im asking this to know where to troubleshoot. I think the diverter is working but not sure yet.
If i drop a ball into the subway with the game turned off, the ball will get stuck next to the diverter once I lower the pf.

I noticed that the diverter shaft that goes into the coil arm is kinda loose, but cant move the 2 set screws that are holding it, either direction (tighten/untighten).
Maybe that loose shaft could be my issue right there?

Ideas?

Does the diverter work in test mode? Does the coil fire? Do the coil plungers move freely in the coils?

Update: diverter coil works. I was wrong before, the loose shaft isnt hold in place by set screws, actually it isnt the shaft that is loose but the whole "arm". Dont know if that is the reason why the bull is getting stuck, See this vid:

And here is where the ball gets stuck (again, with machine turned off!)
What to do?

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Hi everyone! New to the forum, and really to the wonderful world of owning these fabulous machines!

I'm having an issue with my ST:TNG that I am hoping someone can help me out with. Basically, after consistent play(maybe a solid hour), my lower right flipper stops working. Just drops and is completely non-responsive. Before that point the flipper is strong and works perfectly. I should also note that if the machine sits for a while it goes back to working normally, but the downtime is in the several hours range.

I have checked all my connections and everything looks great. All of the fuses on the boards appear to be fine. The flippers were rebuilt just prior to my purchase, but I went ahead and pulled the right one apart anyway to makes sure there was no gunk in the coil or any other obvious issues. The opto-boards and switches are clean.

I'm loving this machine and it's getting a lot of play, so I would like to trace this issue and fix it. I tried searching through posts on here for a similar issue, but did not see anything. If this is a common-ish problem and I can just be pointed toward some solutions I will take it!

Thanks!

Sounds like a defective driver transistor for that flipper on the flippertronics board. Have you tried replacing it or swapping with the other side?

I'm not sure which one you're referring to. Very new to all of this! Would you happen to know which transistor? The manual lists several, 4 major ones.

On the diverters, remember their normal state is OPEN. And when setting the proper location, they only need to guide the ball. So when the coil would be fully engaged, the diverter arm should be only positioned to allow the ball to change directions. If the arm is set too far it will stop or lockup the ball. Also try to position the height of the mounting screw to allow the arm to be in the middle of the subway slot.

Tonight's modding on "The Star Trek Pinball Experience". Adding the Cardassian Ship into it's proper location in the machine. Added some lighting to bring it out of the dark.
In addition, both of the upgraded 1080HD screens are now up and running for the Cannon Cam POV.

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I'm sorry i don't and do not have my manual handy right now.
Hopefully someone has done this recently and can provide a first hand example. If not; if I have time tonight after work - I'll look at the schematics.

Thanks! I appreciate the assist!

Just got a STTNG machine yesterday. One of my favorite machines.

I am going to need to expand that bedroom if I expect to get any more machines in there...

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I see a ColorDMD in your future

Yeah I want the LED ColorDMD. I might look in to a Pinsound upgrade as well, the sound quality is kinda meh.

I also either need to fix the left cannons laser or remove it from the right cannon, because only one works. (I think that mod is kinda cheaty anyway)

Thank you for this, so it seems my problem could be in the alignment of the diverter arm.
Is there any info to be found somewhere on how to adjust the diverter arm and the height of the mounting screw? New to this game.

Thanks!

Get the stereo cable with the Pinsound.

I went all-in for my STTNG. Pinsound, shaker, 2.1 wiring, PS speakers, external sub. Sounds phenomenal.

And of course a ColorDMD!!

What do you think, specifically for the STTNG, about the LCD vs LED ColorDMD debate? I am really thinking LED, myself.