Tonight's STTNG Mod
(continuing on the dual monitor install). Currently the screens are displaying movie content, however the plan is to have them show LIVE video from the Cannons. Left Cannon / Left Screen.....Right Cannon / Right Screen.

Waiting on the tiny cameras which will be installed within the cannon covers. More to come
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Wow - impressive score. Well done!!

Sure, now I see this post, lol. I ordered some off eBay because that's all that came up with a Google search.

I would have ordered yours instead to support a fellow Pinsider/thread contributor. My only feedback is to remove the mouse bites before shipping and put a layer of bubble wrap between the two if concerned about scratches. Personally, I'm not a fan of doing additional work to a mod before installing - should be plug n' play unless it's a DIY mod I'm building like LED cat eyes for Demo Man handles. Just my 2 cents.

Anyone here done a DIY light up of the start mission scoop? I'm guessing you could tie in the scoop bulb to the start mission socket on the middle of the playfield so they are on at the same time? I've seen the kit on here for $27, but seems like it should just be some wiring, a socket, and a bulb? Not sure if a diode is required. Thanks!

Yes, super easy. you would wire this in parallel and you do need a diode for the new lamp holder.

Damn!! That’s amazing, all of it! Where did you get the lighted speaker grills? And would love to pick your brain on what you did with the screen. I assume it’s interactive with the gameplay? VPin setup there?

Damn!! That’s amazing, all of it! Where did you get the lighted speaker grills? And would love to pick your brain on what you did with the screen. I assume it’s interactive with the gameplay? VPin setup there?

How did you power the warbird, via USB? Did you just use a little usb brick, and extended that to the aux A/C outlet in the machine? I just burned one up, hoping to keep it at one burned warbird lol.

As mentioned in a previous post on the speakers leds, it's NOT a plug and play. You already know by now Williams put (for the time) good sound system in. However if you want to improve that (and you should want to), you'll want the PinSound Plus system. Why am I talking about this? Because I wanted the FULL opening for the benefit of the speaker sound, not the tiny right hole in the STTNG pin, I did NOT use the PinSide adapter.

I enlarged the right hole to the standard 5 1/4 inch size, with the added benefit of fitting in the leds speaker mod. The guy who sells them doesn't promote his product because of unsuccessful customer experience from people who attempted this. However it's worth doing. There are posted information about the speaker hole mod.

On the DUAL screens, as mentioned, they WILL be interactive with the custom cameras which will be installed within the cannon covers. This entire mod is custom and been a hard research trial and error thing. But the screens I must say, I love. Even without the cameras, I would / could play media back on them via a media drive inside the cabinet. The project is still underway

Anyone know what part #'s these two posts are? My lower post that goes into the playfield has the threads of the top post broken off in it and the top hex wireform support is completely missing. Here's a pic of what I need (PC: Pezpunk). I found what I think might be the hex post on PPS site.

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I think it's just one post, and the wireform screws into the top of it. I got my post from Marco's last year but it's no longer in stock:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=02-4934

Thanks! But that hex post screws onto the top of a regular playfield round post (the kind with the post sleeve) I believe. Looks like PPS is also out of stock on that long hex post, so may need to DIY something with threaded rod.

This post may be available from McMaster-Carr.
https://www.mcmaster.com

I cant find the exact link for it, but I know I posted it a couple times over the years

Couple of questions on the Klingon Bird of Prey ornament from Hallmark. After burning up several of them, and research, I have came to the conclusion is to NOT power them off the playfield at all. My ships have 5 volt usb power and are polarity specific. I wanted the underwing mods red lights to shut off during Borg mod, so the are normal red leds powered by the original GI lighting connector. The wing cannons are on the SAME USB power, however they were too bright and about 1600 ohms of resistors were put inline to knock their brightness down.

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https://www.mcmaster.com/screws

The Star Trek Experience Playfield Screen (3) (testing location) and Upgrade for the Romulan Warbird

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STTNG Cannon Camera POV install.

Hi all,
I have an issue with my STTNG, during game, for no reason, it gives me a mutliball and also jackpots without putting a ball in "the start mission" hole. It could sent an holodeck too while the ball is on the playfield.
on power board
TP1 : 13.42v
TP2 : 5v
TP3 : 11.85v
TP6 : 105v !!!
TP7 : 21.3 v
TP8 : 16.2 v

Thanks

Have you tested all your switches in test mode? Look for multiple switch matrix activations when triggering a single switch. If you shake the machine while in test mode are there any switches being triggered?

Cleaned up my Sttng with some added lights and made a customs plastic too.

The Delta ramp entrance was GI lit from the factory but not Alpha or Beta. Added a bulb under the Beta ramp and a 4 led strip under the Alpha ramp.

While I was doing the Alpha ramp, decided to replace the clear plastic (which didn’t come in my replacement set) with a plastic that matched the rest of the plastics. Took a used broken plastic, traced out the clear one and now I have a nice space plastic.

Also replaced the drop target with a translucent one from Zitterkopf and put a purple led to light it up. Can’t see it from the player perspective but it still looks nice.

Some light strips along the back board too. I really need to get a decal for the black backboard.

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Not a judgement; just wondering why you decided against my Pop Caps?
Appreciate the business; just trying to figure out why the Pop Caps aren't as popular as the old Stern Version. My guess is people just don't mod older machines as often and didn't know they existed.

I tested the switch it looks good, I'm going to try shake the machine ...

Thanks

I love the look of pop bumper rings. I think they look awesome. I put them on every game I own.

I have seen the molded caps, I have seen the stickers with emblems cut out to let light shine through. Just think a light ring is better looking. Just personal preference.

I wish the drop target was visible by the player, because I think the light up drops are quite nice.

When I let it in switch test sometimes switches activate alone ( the switches are wht-* grn-* ). I made a video :

As suspected you have an issue with your optos and it's probably the connector going to the opto board under the playfield. Take the connector off the board, clean up the contacts the best you can, push in all the IDC wire contacts and then reconnect it and see if things improve.

I found the issue : a wire in the connecteur of the trough was making poor contact .

Thanks for help

Nicely done. Interesting you converted a clear plastic into a starfield plastic. I lighted the same area mainly for the ramp, however it's worthwhile to make the plastic under the Borg ship meaningful. Cool

about those clear plastics...Two of the clear plastics don't come with the kit, one under the borg ship and I believe the other above the Alpha ramp...Planetary now sells those separatly and were never supplied with the standard "plastic" kit, according to Rick (at Planetary). Not sure if they're currently included in the newer kits he's selling. You would have had to order the clear plastic kit to get those two additional clear plastics in days past.

Perhaps a silly question, but I wonder about the warning sound that plays when the coin door is opened (donk donk donk), is that the same sound on STTNG as on other Williams machines, or is it supposed to be more "noisy/scratchy"?

From what I know, it should be exactly the same.

THANK YOU TO THE FANTASTIC PEOPLE AT PINSIDE!

This is a great site, and the work it takes to maintain it is appreciated.

Wow didn't take them longer than 6 minutes to sensor your creations.

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You are correct, oh well. I tried to share....

"The Star Trek Experience Pinball" Cannon POV Cameras mod & the LCARS Monitor Interface.

You mentioned you are a video editor, well that explains it . Your creation is Fantastic and really well done. Wow!

You dork. I love it!

Thank you all!!
Thank you Pinside
HAHAH of course I am a dork of the obsessed kind. Hmmm Star Trek....Pinball....Video Editing....DYI tinkering....Oreos....."HAPPINESS times a MILLION"

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You can try sharing a link to another location with the images/video.

Eric,

Fantastic job, I knew you would figure out what to do with the extra set of my Laser cannon covers.....

Mick

mickspinball.com

Thank you man, YOU, the LASER GUY himself, are my inspiration!

I may have a solution coming later today, however "that" video was BLOCKED by YouTube. It appears using Star Trek videos can make a franchise mad.

It was suggested to me today that I come over to this club thread and ask for some help with a right side cannon problem. Here is the link to the repair thread that I started yesterday. Any advice always appreciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-trek-ng-right-cannon-wont-fire-#post-6226915

You don't mention if the cannon coil will fire in solenoid tests, try that first. If it won't fire try grounding the tab on the drive transistor to manually check power to the coil, continuity to the board and the coil itself.

The Right side will Not fire in solenoid test. Left side Yes , Right side No. According to what I can read in the diagnostics menu details three drive transistor are noted Q80 - 79 - 74 which one should I ground to test? and does it matter which leg to ground on the transistor itself ?

Apologies I didn't read closely enough you said Tab not Leg.

Both my cannon plungers appear to have become magnetized so they frequently stick on when fired. I've added a temporary solution of adding a 1mm foam spacer to prevent the plunger from fully plunging so it can't stick to the metal plate any more - is this a bad idea?! The cannons work fine now

I usually find that a replacing the coil sleeve and spring will solve this problem.

Q80 is listed as the drive transistor for the right gun kicker.

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Ok thank You for that but just to be sure , ground the Tab (metal top of transistor) with a jumper wire Correct?

Yes, with the game in solenoid test or in a game and the coin door closed. Just briefly ground the metal tab and see if the coil fires.