(Topic ID: 47092)

St:tng owners welcome aboard the uss enterprise

By Pinballgeek

10 years ago


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#5151 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

What problem do you have or are trying to solve?
In regards to the trough kickout failing occasionally, check the tip of the coil plunger is not worn or you may need to adjust the ball guide at the kickout hole that deflects the ball into the shooter lane - taking a slo-mo of the kickout and comparing one that fails to others that makes it can help work out what is happening.

The issues I outlined here in post #5111
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/103#post-6088852

Sometimes a ball drain isn't registered, sometimes a lock that wasn't lit in the neutral zone is registered and times when it wants me to randomly launch a probe from the right gun. Everyone almost always points to trough...but I think mine is subway related.

I'll check the tip of the plunger though, thanks!

#5152 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Tonight's additions and engineering fun!

No lights on Enterprise? My bench testing showed that 12VDC should properly illuminate the Hallmark NCC1701-D

I actually added a 2 pin 12VDC connector to the playfield wiring harness on the right side of the playfield to install the Enterprise-D ... only problem is when I did this, the playfield was inverted and the connector ended up on the wrong side

I guess I could always add a M-F 2 pin Molex jumper to relocate it but I haven't.

#5153 3 years ago

Building on my last findings... It seems I was able to light a ball lock with the command decision hole while the lock light was only out for the drop target and delta ramp. That's a new one... I've lit it with a neutral zone shot but never from command decision. I think I'll try placing my camera in the upper subway next.

#5154 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

No lights on Enterprise? My bench testing showed that 12VDC should properly illuminate the Hallmark NCC1701-D
I actually added a 2 pin 12VDC connector to the playfield wiring harness on the right side of the playfield to install the Enterprise-D ... only problem is when I did this, the playfield was inverted and the connector ended up on the wrong side
I guess I could always add a M-F 2 pin Molex jumper to relocate it but I haven't.

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#5155 3 years ago
Quoted from sparksterz:

The issues I outlined here in post #5111
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sttng-owners-club/page/103#post-6088852
Sometimes a ball drain isn't registered, sometimes a lock that wasn't lit in the neutral zone is registered and times when it wants me to randomly launch a probe from the right gun. Everyone almost always points to trough...but I think mine is subway related.
I'll check the tip of the plunger though, thanks!

To me the trough kickout not always managing to put the ball in the shooter lane is a mechanical issue and is unrelated to the other issues you are seeing.

The other 3 issues you've mentioned seem quite varied - could possibly be switch/opto related or alternatively the CPU board. I see that you have a Getaway HS2 in your collection - try swapping over the CPU board (changing out the game ROM) and see whether it fixes any of the issues.

#5156 3 years ago

Driver board test point voltages question. I believe there’s an issue on my 18v circuit. If I go into “all lamp” test, the game resets instantly every time I try it. The game has the Kahr 5v reset board (was in the game when I got it) and will occasionally reset during a game - maybe once every 30-50 games. Looks like previous owner also replaced C6 and C7.

In attract mode, TP8 will go from 16.3 to 12.3v under load (ie when modes light all together).

I need to double check the previous board work, but guessing voltage dropping to 12.3 is too low? I’ll check BR1. Any other components I should be testing?

#5157 3 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

The game has the Kahr 5v reset board (was in the game when I got it) and will occasionally reset during a game - maybe once every 30-50 games. Looks like previous owner also replaced C6 and C7.

In attract mode, TP8 will go from 16.3 to 12.3v under load (ie when modes light all together).

I need to double check the previous board work, but guessing voltage dropping to 12.3 is too low? I’ll check BR1. Any other components I should be testing?

Yes, 12.3 volts is too low. The 12V DC regulated voltage is derived from the 18V lamp voltage, and its this voltage the Khar board draws upon to create your +5VDC to power the CPU. Any issues with your 18V lamp voltage is going to have a significant impact on the CPU since this is now your voltage source for all CPU functions.

#Robbing Peter to pay Paul ... the debt always comes due.

#5158 3 years ago

In the history of pinball, coin machines were considered a form of gambling.

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#5159 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

Yes, 12.3 volts is too low. The 12V DC regulated voltage is derived from the 18V lamp voltage, and its this voltage the Khar board draws upon to create your +5VDC to power the CPU. Any issues with your 18V lamp voltage is going to have a significant impact on the CPU since this is now your voltage source for all CPU functions.
#Robbing Peter to pay Paul ... the debt always comes due.

Thanks, I’ll pull the board and check out the previous board work - BR1, C6/C7, and continuity while it’s out. Probably also check the 5v caps and bridges.

#5160 3 years ago

Hi all,
I'm trying to get a high score to record on the officers club. I know the different tables have different ways to get on them but I can't seem to get on this high score list.
I have enabled buyins on my sttng pinball machine and set A.2 11 Buy in Count to 2 buy ins (when set to 1 buy in...the officers club high score list is never displayed.) The game is set to free play so to buy in again we just hit the "to be continued button". The lowest stock highscore on officers club is 500 million but after continuing twice and scoring 600 million nothing happens.
Perhaps it doesn't work with free play?
The intention is to give my kids/wife somewhere to start and get theirs names up there.

Thanks!

#5161 3 years ago
Quoted from BigMuddyCatfish:

Hi all,
I'm trying to get a high score to record on the officers club. I know the different tables have different ways to get on them but I can't seem to get on this high score list.
I have enabled buyins on my sttng pinball machine and set A.2 11 Buy in Count to 2 buy ins (when set to 1 buy in...the officers club high score list is never displayed.) The game is set to free play so to buy in again we just hit the "to be continued button". The lowest stock highscore on officers club is 500 million but after continuing twice and scoring 600 million nothing happens.
Perhaps it doesn't work with free play?
The intention is to give my kids/wife somewhere to start and get theirs names up there.
Thanks!

I have unlimited buy-ins/continues. You should see my 7 yo’s face when he gets to Final Frontier. Priceless.

#5162 3 years ago
Quoted from BigMuddyCatfish:

Hi all,
I'm trying to get a high score to record on the officers club. I know the different tables have different ways to get on them but I can't seem to get on this high score list.
I have enabled buyins on my sttng pinball machine and set A.2 11 Buy in Count to 2 buy ins (when set to 1 buy in...the officers club high score list is never displayed.) The game is set to free play so to buy in again we just hit the "to be continued button". The lowest stock highscore on officers club is 500 million but after continuing twice and scoring 600 million nothing happens.
Perhaps it doesn't work with free play?
The intention is to give my kids/wife somewhere to start and get theirs names up there.
Thanks!

Max 1 buy-in only to get to officer’s club.

#5163 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Max 1 buy-in only to get to officer’s club.

I played with the same settings as described originally and continued one time and scored over a billion. It should have replaced the lowest stock high score on officers club but once again nothing happened...

These are the high score table rules I found in another pinside topic

If your score beats the Grand Champion score, and you bought in one or fewer times, you get the Grand Champion score and nothing else. When you beat the GC, the old score is bumped onto another high score table as appropriate; if it qualifies for Q's Continuum it goes there, otherwise it goes on the Honor Roll.
If your score is better than the #4 Q's Continuum score (but not the GC), you get on that. Buy-ins don't matter.
If none of the above, your score is checked against the Honor Roll OR Officer's Club lists, depending on the number of buy-ins. One or fewer goes on the Honor Roll, more than one goes on the Officer's Club. Only if your score is high enough to make the lists, of course.

#5164 3 years ago
Quoted from BigMuddyCatfish:

I played with the same settings as described originally and continued one time and scored over a billion. It should have replaced the lowest stock high score on officers club but once again nothing happened...
These are the high score table rules I found in another pinside topic
If your score beats the Grand Champion score, and you bought in one or fewer times, you get the Grand Champion score and nothing else. When you beat the GC, the old score is bumped onto another high score table as appropriate; if it qualifies for Q's Continuum it goes there, otherwise it goes on the Honor Roll.
If your score is better than the #4 Q's Continuum score (but not the GC), you get on that. Buy-ins don't matter.
If none of the above, your score is checked against the Honor Roll OR Officer's Club lists, depending on the number of buy-ins. One or fewer goes on the Honor Roll, more than one goes on the Officer's Club. Only if your score is high enough to make the lists, of course.

Could it be based on game rom version?

#5165 3 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

Could it be based on game rom version?

It has rom LA-7. Is that the latest and greatest?

#5166 3 years ago

I found this on the internet:

The original concept behind the various high score tables

- Scoring 10 billion or more would qualify a player for the Q Continuum.

- The "regular" high score tables would be for scores obtained with one buy-in or less. These tables are Grand
Champion and Honor Roll. Otherwise, a player would end up in the Officers' Club.

IF (buy-ins <= 1) AND (score > grand champ score)
THEN { player is Grand Champion }

ELSE IF (score >= 10 billion)
THEN { IF (score > any Q Continuum)
THEN { player enters Q Continuum } }

ELSE IF (buy-ins > 1) AND (score > any officers' club)
THEN { player enters Officers' Club }

ELSE IF (buy-ins <= 1) AND (score > any honor roll)
THEN { player enters Honor Roll }

Note the consequences of the second test above. If a player gets 10 billion or more points, but does not make it into the Q Continuum, he/she does not get to enter initials, even if he/she would have otherwise qualified to enter either the Officers' Club or Honor Roll.

Also, consider another odd possibility of this pathology. Since Grand Champion scores get bumped down into the Honor Roll table when a new Grand Champion score is entered, it is possible to have scores greater than 10 billion in the Honor Roll, even though no one can directly enter initials for that
table with a score greater than 10 billion.

#5167 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin_Guy:

I found this on the internet:
The original concept behind the various high score tables
- Scoring 10 billion or more would qualify a player for the Q Continuum.
- The "regular" high score tables would be for scores obtained with one buy-in or less. These tables are Grand
Champion and Honor Roll. Otherwise, a player would end up in the Officers' Club.
IF (buy-ins <= 1) AND (score > grand champ score)
THEN { player is Grand Champion }
ELSE IF (score >= 10 billion)
THEN { IF (score > any Q Continuum)
THEN { player enters Q Continuum } }
ELSE IF (buy-ins > 1) AND (score > any officers' club)
THEN { player enters Officers' Club }
ELSE IF (buy-ins <= 1) AND (score > any honor roll)
THEN { player enters Honor Roll }
Note the consequences of the second test above. If a player gets 10 billion or more points, but does not make it into the Q Continuum, he/she does not get to enter initials, even if he/she would have otherwise qualified to enter either the Officers' Club or Honor Roll.
Also, consider another odd possibility of this pathology. Since Grand Champion scores get bumped down into the Honor Roll table when a new Grand Champion score is entered, it is possible to have scores greater than 10 billion in the Honor Roll, even though no one can directly enter initials for that
table with a score greater than 10 billion.

This is what I have been reading too on the internet. It seems games played with multiple buy-ins that beat an officers club high score should enter that high score table.

Guess I'll try messing with the menu a little more. I'll try with coins too. lol

Thanks for helping.

#5168 3 years ago

Hello again,

So changed A2.11 buy in count to three (which is the factory setting). Still on freeplay. Used all three buy-ins and made it on to the officers club. Seems to me that

ELSE IF (buy-ins > or = 3) AND (score > any officers' club)
THEN { player enters Officers' Club }

would be the correct rules.

At least for my machine.

Thanks all!

#5169 3 years ago

Hey everyone, I see from time to time, detailed information which is NOT in the November 1993 Star Trek Next Generation Manual. Like someone posted details of the subway assembly, or details about specific parts, and many other things. What is this documentation coming from? I know Williams has a SERVICE manual, in general about the era of machines, however if there is a revised owners manual, I want to get it.

Thanks for any light you can shine on this topic. Hope I am being clear..... here is an example.......this is page 3-44....my manual goes to 3-37 (part number 16-50023-101-1) Is it incomplete?? Think I purchased the item from Marco

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#5170 3 years ago

Here is mine

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#5172 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

this is page 3-44....my manual goes to 3-37 (part number 16-50023-101-1) Is it incomplete??

No, its not incomplete.

Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

What is this documentation coming from? I know Williams has a SERVICE manual

That page was taken from the Williams GREEN Parts Manual and the page number is from that manual. The next page 3-25 is equally if not more important as it has the parts list and diverter assembly breakdown.
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#5173 3 years ago

this is what I am interested in. The GREEN Parts Manual. Didn't know about that one. I think it is this part number 16-9932

#5175 3 years ago

PIN-GUY Rock's it out again!!! Dude!
When normal Operator's Manuals aren't enough to read, Planetary Pinball has online, the WILLIAMS GREEN PARTS catalog, which is 444 pages of nerdy cool on several pinball machines, and of course STTNG.
Reposting his link:

http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/WMS_Parts_Green_16-9932/files/mobile/index.html#1

So it is the DEEP DIVE into illustrations, additional information and much more.

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#5176 3 years ago
Quoted from Newpin1000:

Here is mine
[quoted image]

Like your yellow plastic protectors. I have replaced the clear ones by light blue.

The printed ones are a bit tricky. Especially the ones under the vuk gun ramps. Did they fit without issues? I have made new printed plexis out of lexan 0.5mm strength.

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#5177 3 years ago
Quoted from Kjarkur:

Like your yellow plastic protectors. I have replaced the clear ones by light blue.
The printed ones are a bit tricky. Especially the ones under the vuk gun ramps. Did they fit without issues? I have made new printed plexis out of lexan 0.5mm strength. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I really like the light blue - looks great!!

#5178 3 years ago

Hi, yes mine fitted perfect

#5179 3 years ago

Hi guys
I am looking for the reference of the screws of the cannon cover for my sttng. I have looked at the manual but did not find it.
Thanks a lot for your help
Stephane

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#5180 3 years ago

This is a flanged button head screw, I would just go to the local hardware store and pick them up. The low profile of these screws made the phillips ones easy to strip, most of the ones you are going to find will likely have a hex head. Sorry I dont know the thread size on this one.

With your painted covers, you may want to look at replacing these with black oxide ones for esthetics.
https://www.mcmaster.com/screws/rounded-head-screws/flanged-rounded-head-screws/alloy-steel-flanged-button-head-screws-8/

#5181 3 years ago

Before randomly replacing a bunch of stuff, what is causing this to happen frequently? The sling rubber is new, however the kicker arm is original. Thoughts and advice appreciated.

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#5182 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Before randomly replacing a bunch of stuff, what is causing this to happen frequently? The sling rubber is new, however the kicker arm is original. Thoughts and advice appreciated.
[quoted image]

You can try loosening or tightening the rubber on the front side. Or take out the LED wafers under the posts. They may cause the rubber to sit to high and pop over the arm.

#5183 3 years ago

I have the same pair of post light installed and have never had this happen. I've seen this happen on a few JJP machines but not sure what the cause is.

#5184 3 years ago

Doesn't happen on mine, but I only have lights on the posts closest to flipper bats

#5185 3 years ago

KICKER RUBBER TROUBLES

I think the wrong size of slings may be installed. I have ordered some 4" size, and see what happens. In the meantime, I will also be replacing the old kicker arm with a new one. After 27 years, it's done it's time....

NEWPIN 1000
Nice Pinball machine dude. You must has additional sling protectors under the artwork. The effect with the light is amazing.

#5186 3 years ago
Quoted from Gaumax:

Hi guys
I am looking for the reference of the screws of the cannon cover for my sttng. I have looked at the manual but did not find it.
Thanks a lot for your help
Stephane
[quoted image]

Stephane, The cannon cover screws are #6-32 x 3/8" Machine Screws With Built-In Washer. If you order my enhanced cannon covers with red. green or clear dome/s, I do throw in the correct screws also...

Mickspinball.com

#5187 3 years ago

For those who have PinSound, you already know it's certainly a drastic, huge upgrade for all pinball machines, especially for STTNG. That said, thought I'd help the subwoofer out some.
Like a home speaker, I gave mine an enclosure to call home.

The bass response was increased, in addition to keeping things out of the subwoofer cone.

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#5188 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

For those who have PinSound, you already know it's certainly a drastic, huge upgrade for all pinball machines, especially for STTNG. That said, thought I'd help the subwoofer out some.
Like a home speaker, I gave mine an enclosure to call home.
The bass response was increased, in addition to keeping things out of the subwoofer cone.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I've not seen this done before - it's a great idea. I wonder if any of the audio savy guys have done any testing as to the optimal box size and whether a ported box would be better

#5189 3 years ago

TheMickster and Pin_Guy,
Thanks a lot for your help and reply for the cannon cover screws.
@ TheMickster > thanks for the offer but I do not order anymore from the US. It is currently to messy with the new taxes and the customs.....
Hope this will change in the coming months !

#5190 3 years ago

Manny65
I don't actually know. Seriously I wouldn't want the box to be any larger, as the Drop Target adjustment screw is extremely close when moving the playfield. On porting or installing a hole, I truly don't know. I'm not an audio guy. However at least the box prevents dirt, screws, solder and tools from having an accident with the speaker cone. Anyone who works on the machine, mods and tweaks and do add-ons will know the hazard.

If there had been more room, possibly some sound dampening material inside the box would be a plus. However the box was installed fully assembled, and that was such a tight fit, anything larger would have been impractical.

#5191 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I've not seen this done before - it's a great idea. I wonder if any of the audio savy guys have done any testing as to the optimal box size and whether a ported box would be better

Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Manny65
I don't actually know. Seriously I wouldn't want the box to be any larger, as the Drop Target adjustment screw is extremely close when moving the playfield. On porting or installing a hole, I truly don't know. I'm not an audio guy. However at least the box prevents dirt, screws, solder and tools from having an accident with the speaker cone. Anyone who works on the machine, mods and tweaks and do add-ons will know the hazard.
If there had been more room, possibly some sound dampening material inside the box would be a plus. However the box was installed fully assembled, and that was such a tight fit, anything larger would have been impractical.

It'll never sound as good as an external powered subwoofer, and one of those can support multiple games too. I went crazy stupid once with a gigantic sub&amp on a WWF Royal Rumble. There was gale force wind coming out around the lockbar and you could see the glass flexing up and down in the middle. Still didn't sound as good as an external sub and lot's of rattling to eliminate.

#5192 3 years ago
Quoted from Gaumax:

TheMickster and Pin_Guy,
Thanks a lot for your help and reply for the cannon cover screws.
@ TheMickster > thanks for the offer but I do not order anymore from the US. It is currently to messy with the new taxes and the customs.....
Hope this will change in the coming months !

Stephane, Email me through my web site and I Post Office mail a set to you, if I use just a standard envelope it should not be a problem..

Mickspinball.com

#5193 3 years ago
Quoted from Eric_Manuel:

Manny65
I don't actually know. Seriously I wouldn't want the box to be any larger, as the Drop Target adjustment screw is extremely close when moving the playfield. On porting or installing a hole, I truly don't know. I'm not an audio guy. However at least the box prevents dirt, screws, solder and tools from having an accident with the speaker cone. Anyone who works on the machine, mods and tweaks and do add-ons will know the hazard.
If there had been more room, possibly some sound dampening material inside the box would be a plus. However the box was installed fully assembled, and that was such a tight fit, anything larger would have been impractical.

It's the volume of air in the speaker box that is important, so you don't need the box to be higher (as you indicated you don't have much room with the mechs under the PF) but the box could potentially be wider or deeper. If going a ported box then the hole size is important and determines the frequency being enhanced.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

It'll never sound as good as an external powered subwoofer, and one of those can support multiple games too. I went crazy stupid once with a gigantic sub&amp on a WWF Royal Rumble. There was gale force wind coming out around the lockbar and you could see the glass flexing up and down in the middle. Still didn't sound as good as an external sub and lot's of rattling to eliminate.

True an external sub is specifically designed for optimal audio performance, however putting the cabinet speaker in a speaker box would definitely improve the sound (one of the main issues is the volume of air in the cabinet as you experienced). It just depends how much you want to spend on the audio side - Pinsound, Pinwoofer (amp), Speakers, external sub ....

#5194 3 years ago
Quoted from Manny65:

I've not seen this done before - it's a great idea. I wonder if any of the audio savy guys have done any testing as to the optimal box size and whether a ported box would be better

There have been many great ideas exchanged over the years and while this has not been demonstrated publicly to my knowledge before today's (clever) post by Eric_Manuel , there might be something mentioned out there. Still, PinWoofer included this concept into one of our patent filings early last year. If it is new, great. If not, oh well!

There is merit to this but our thinking was more from an OEM perspective on new titles. It would be difficult to implement this as a one size fits all retroactively because of widely varying low-lying obstructions under the playfield. While the cabinet size of a pinball machine lends itself nicely as a voluminous enclosure, there are things that rattle - most notably the glass. This is exactly why we introduced our GT ("Glass Tamer") feature with our new amp. It is very effective in reducing the rattle of the glass, but there is no absolute solution.

I'm not ruling out an interior enclosure as an offering, but it feels like its more trouble than its worth for us. As a hobbyist implementation this is really cool. I can see a someone doing this out of sheer enjoyment like Eric_Manuel and I applaud the innovation!

I though it would be fun to show our filing sketch; things are exaggerated for the benefit of the examiner but you get the idea.

Good times!

Dan
https://PinWoofer.com

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#5195 3 years ago

Here is my tight fit when I had the WWF-RR. An enclosure would not have been possible in this case without reducing the size of the sub. (it was a 10 incher)

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#5196 3 years ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

Here is my tight fit when I had the WWF-RR. An enclosure would not have been possible in this case without reducing the size of the sub. (it was a 10 incher)
[quoted image]

yep tight fit with a 10" sub .... that'd blow ya socks off lol

#5197 3 years ago

SPEAKER IN A BOX
Speaker revision 2.0. Speaker cover was removed. Vent holes (2) installed in the back. Rubber backed carpet now lines the inside of the speaker box. (2) coats of Satin Black paint and (2) coats of a flat finish sealer were also applied. New gasket lines the bottom so box will not rattle.

NET RESULT. A little less volume from the speaker, but the is good. The cabinet can breath. The SOUND is certainly MORE CLEAR with the same deep range. Work, but recommended

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#5198 3 years ago

Tonight, the Enterprise 1701-D Topper arrives. For anyone modding one these ships, the difficulty speaks for itself. It's not perfect, or the most expensive, realistic one, but it works for me.
Hope everyone likes it.

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#5199 3 years ago

For those who have LED's in the backbox, how are you eliminating the fast, faint flickering of the bulbs? Did you use GI OCD or non-ghosting bulbs? I'm guessing the patched rom only works on the playfield inserts?

#5200 3 years ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

For those who have LED's in the backbox, how are you eliminating the fast, faint flickering of the bulbs? Did you use GI OCD or non-ghosting bulbs? I'm guessing the patched rom only works on the playfield inserts?

I'm using both GI OCD and LED OCD boards in mine - works like a champ, set it and forget it. No flicker at all using regular LEDs from Comet.

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$ 109.95
Electronics
PinSound
Electronics
From: $ 209.00
$ 27.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
Interactive
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
Other
From: $ 27.00
Boards
KAHR.US Circuits
Boards
$ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
$ 299.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
Led
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
$ 63.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 285.99
Cabinet - Other
PinSound
Other
6,000
Machine - For Sale
West Chester, PA
From: $ 399.95
Boards
PinSound
Boards
6,000
Machine - For Sale
Warner Robins, GA
$ 125.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
Boards
$ 39.00
Cabinet - Other
Arcade Upkeep
Other
From: $ 8.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
$ 29.90
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Haus
Toys/Add-ons
$ 22.50
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Haus
Decals
$ 5.95
Playfield - Protection
The Pinball Scientist
Protection
$ 9.95
$ 15.00
From: $ 25.00
Playfield - Decals
Flashinstinct
Decals
$ 16.50
Lighting - Led
Lermods
Led
From: $ 1.25
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
6,300
Machine - For Sale
Sanford, NC
$ 599.00
Cabinet - Toppers
Juz PINBALL Mods
Toppers
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
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