(Topic ID: 80784)

STTNG help??!! Switch #44

By MapleSyrup

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 62 posts
  • 18 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by Pin_Guy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 62 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 7 years ago

Is there a way to even clean #44 without removing the ramp?

Could you guys post what you have ordered to fix #44? Part numbers, from where? etc. Thanks!

I have to replace that ramp. I am thinking I will also replace the opto while I'm under there. Thanks!

#52 7 years ago

Hah, and I have 6 games. I guess I just can't get any more if I want to live in an issue free world?

#53 7 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Is there a way to even clean #44 without removing the ramp?
Could you guys post what you have ordered to fix #44? Part numbers, from where? etc. Thanks!
I have to replace that ramp. I am thinking I will also replace the opto while I'm under there. Thanks!

Unless you could train a small mouse to crawl in and clean the optos, there is no way to access #44 without disassembly of ramps and Borg ship.

You have choices in parts, Marco's has everything you need. Either just the Opto transmitter LED, to repair your existing board or a full transmitter board with LED on it already to replace the entire thing. They even have one with the mounting bracket.

Complete Transmitter Assembly: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-16908
Transmitter Board Only: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14231
LED Transmitter IR Diode Only: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5671-12731-00

They also sell receiver parts, but those are far less likely to be the problem.

#54 7 years ago

Bos98, thanks! Looks simple enough, once you're underneath it all. LOL.

Train a mouse eh? How about shoving a pipe-cleaner thing down the ramp with a super-soft-poof of some kind?

That would be a product I would buy. A plastic rod that's flexible (as to not damage the plastic ramps) with a super-soft-poof at the end. You can shove that sucker down all ramps to clean them.

#55 7 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Bos98, thanks! Looks simple enough, once you're underneath it all. LOL.
Train a mouse eh? How about shoving a pipe-cleaner thing down the ramp with a super-soft-poof of some kind?
That would be a product I would buy. A plastic rod that's flexible (as to not damage the plastic ramps) with a super-soft-poof at the end. You can shove that sucker down all ramps to clean them.

I attempted cleaning it with a swiffer duster hand wand I modified to fit. Alas it was not dirty, it was dead. Yours is probably dead. Keep in mind the transmitter side is on at all times the game is powered on. High use = high failure.

#56 7 years ago
Quoted from Bos98:

Keep in mind the transmitter side is on at all times the game is powered on. High use = high failure.

Then the receiver side is on at all times too.

LTG : )

#57 7 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Then the receiver side is on at all times too.
LTG : )

True but not outputting anything, apparently the receivers fail way less frequently.

#58 7 years ago

Heck replace both sides, it is cheap enough!

#59 7 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Could you guys post what you have ordered to fix #44? Part numbers, from where? etc. Thanks!

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=KIIz7VjqD7I4A%252bR7oPm1DQ%3d%3d $3.82 for 10
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=QSD124virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-QSD124 $3.65 for 10

There is no way I wouldn't replace both after taking all of that apart to get at them

#60 7 years ago

Borygard stocks the proper emitters and receivers. Scroll down on the page.

http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm

#61 7 years ago

Pin_Guy, you'd just replace the LEDs eh? Nothing else on those small boards that can go bad? I know the resistors on the trough boards can go bad...

#62 7 years ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Pin_Guy, you'd just replace the LEDs eh? Nothing else on those small boards that can go bad? I know the resistors on the trough boards can go bad...

There is nothing else on these boards, just the diode and the wire connections.

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The current limiting resistors for all the opto transmitters (except the ball trough) are located on the 16 opto board.

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