(Topic ID: 119167)

STTNG: F104 fuse keeps blowing

By Triumvirat73

9 years ago


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There are 53 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 9 years ago

Hiya folks,

Just as the title suggests, the F104 fuse in my STTNG keeps blowing. Whenever I try to run the solenoid tests #'s 9-16 don't fire, which makes sense since that's the solenoid bank associated to the F104 fuse...

I looked under the hood and don't see anything obviously wrong with the coils, so where should I start to look for the culprit?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Cheers,
Greg

#2 9 years ago

If your game has a high power interlock switch I would open the coin door to disable it, put in a new fuse. Go to coil test and step up to #9 and then enable the high power and keep stepping pu through the coils until you blow the fuse and know which coil did it.

LTG : )™

#3 9 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

If your game has a high power interlock switch I would open the coin door to disable it, put in a new fuse. Go to coil test and step up to #9 and then enable the high power and keep stepping pu through the coils until you blow the fuse and know which coil did it.
LTG : )™

Have you been told today? Have you? Well in case not... You're a superstar! Thanks Lloyd, I've been working on this game for a few days and I think the common sense hemisphere of my brain is a bit mushy.

Thanks a million!

#4 9 years ago

So, with a fresh fuse, the coin door open, and the machine powered on everything is peachy. The moment I close the interlock switch (not in test mode, just as the game sits idle) the fuse blows.

That can't be normal. Any suggestions on where to start? Blown transistor or something?

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Greg

#5 9 years ago

you can test the transistor by finding the connector that feeds solenoids 9-16 and disconnecting it (machine off of course). If you do that and the flipper blows it's something on the board, if not its on the playfield. Look in the manual to see which connector it is

#6 9 years ago

Unplug the connector to #9 thru #16, then try it.

If it blows the fuse then board issue, bridge rectifier ? If it doesn't blow the fuse, you have a serious short out on that line. Might not be a coil.

LTG : )™

#7 9 years ago

Thanks gents. I'll pop back down later on and give those suggestions a try. Thanks again for all of the help!

Cheers,
Greg

#8 9 years ago

If it was a bad bridge rectifyer, F112 would blow and/or the other solenoid fuses would have problems too.

J127 connects to solenoid 9-16 grounds.

J107 connects the + side of the solenoid circuit FOR ALL coils.

Pull both those connectors and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, you have a board problem. If is doesn't, you have a wiring or coil problem.

It could be that the Violet-Orange solenoid power wire is shorting to ground somewhere. This wire comes from the driver board and runs from one solenoid to another powering solenoids 9-16.

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

If it was a bad bridge rectifyer, F112 would blow and/or the other solenoid fuses would have problems too.
J127 connects to solenoid 9-16 grounds.
J107 connects the + side of the solenoid circuit FOR ALL coils.
Pull both those connectors and see if the fuse still blows. If it does, you have a board problem. If is doesn't, you have a wiring or coil problem.
It could be that the Violet-Orange solenoid power wire is shorting to ground somewhere. This wire comes from the driver board and runs from one solenoid to another powering solenoids 9-16.

Well, it's getting narrowed down!

I pulled J127, and J107 the fuse doesn't blow. Yay!

Now I just need to find where the wiring/coil problem is and I'll be all set. Haha.

Thanks again for the point in the right direction!

Cheers,
Greg

#10 9 years ago

Well that is good! I would start by following the Violet-Orange wire around the PF. You can find it by looking at one of the 9-16 coils and trace it both ways from there...

#11 9 years ago

Will do. Thanks again for the guidance, it's very much appreciated!

#12 9 years ago

Got a logic probe?
If so, connect it to the 5V and ground on the driver board.
Remove J127.
Power on.
Probe each pin of J127.
Normal for each pin is for the probe to sense nothing.
A shorted transistor that provides ground for a circuit will show as a "low" on your probe.
Track the pin back to the transistor.
Easy...assuming you have a probe.

If you don't have a probe, try this...
Set your DMM to continuity test.
Black lead tucked under the ground braid.
Red on each pin of J127.
A pin that shows continuity will identify the shorted circuit.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info

#13 9 years ago

Well I've had some "progress".

I replaced a slingshot coil that looked a bit dodgey and hoped that would be the issue, so now...

Fresh fuse in F104, coin door open, J127 & J107 unplugged: Powered on and closed the interlock switch... No problem.

Power down and connect J127, coin door open: Powered on and closed the interlock switch... No problem.

Power down and connect J107, coin door open: Powered on and closed the interlock switch... POP goes F104.

I did a pretty good visual inspection of the Violet-Orange wire running between all of the solenoids and everything SEEMS to be good (although obviously it isn't).

Any suggestions on what to look for next?

Thanks again for all of the guidance folks!

Cheers,
Greg

#14 9 years ago

What you have proven is that there is a short when coil power is enabled, and the normal path to ground through the transistors has a short. What is odd is that you don't hear a coil lock on.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#15 9 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

What you have proven is that there is a short when coil power is enabled, and the normal path to ground through the transistors has a short. What is odd is that you don't hear a coil lock on.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

Thanks for weighing in again Chris. Sadly, I wish I knew more about what that means. haha

I'm still basically an amateur with this fun stuff and have tried to essentially learn as I go. But I'm a little worried that I may be in over my head on this one.

Aside from continually doing visual inspections expecting to see something different that jumps out at me I'm at the limit of what my basic knowledge can tell me.

Maybe it's time to walk away from it for a day and try going at it again with a fresh brain.

Thanks again for the help!

Cheers,
Greg

#16 9 years ago

Check this out Greg.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#How_coils.2C_flashers.2C_and_motors_are_turned_on

400px-CoilPowerDiagram.jpg400px-CoilPowerDiagram.jpg

In the picture, normally, the coil provides enough resistance to not cause a dead short.
The diode across the coil lugs doesn't conduct in the direction of the DC current flow.
Now, imagine that the diode was shorted.
This would cause a direct (zero ohm) path between the DC power source and the DC power ground. The current would cause the fuse (not pictured) like F104 to blow.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ww.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/ndex.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#17 9 years ago

Hey thanks Chris! That is a great link and illustration!

The only thing is that all of the coils (#9 through #16) on my STTNG don't have diodes between the lugs on the coils, and the coil sleeve part #'s correctly match the part numbers in the manual so I'm assuming they are correct.

Now that I type that I'm not sure if I specifically looked to make sure that they are all diode-less coils, so I should probably double check that before assuming.

#18 9 years ago

* Coil wraps, not coil sleeves. My bad

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from Triumvirat73:

The only thing is that all of the coils (#9 through #16) on my STTNG don't have diodes between the lugs on the coils,

I should add this to that PinWiki section.
WPC moved the diodes to the power/driver board, so your game is correct. If one of the diodes on the power/driver board was shorted, which may be the case, it would cause the same situation.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://ww.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://ww.PinWki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#20 9 years ago

So, is it reasonable to assume the the short lies somewhere within the chain of solenoids #9 through #16? (Since the F104 fuse is specifically for those solenoids?

Solenoids 9-16 are the left/right slingshots, the 3 pop bumpers, the trough, the top divertor, and the borg kickout.

I disconnected the Borg assembly and it still happened so should I be focusing on the remaining 7 solenoids? Or can the short reside elsewhere?

#21 9 years ago

IMO, the short has to be on the supply side of the circuit (pins on J107). If it was on the ground side, the issue we would be chasing is a locked on coil at power up (the driver board grounds each coil to turn it on).

Try this test - with the machine off and with J107 and J127 disconnected, set your meter on ohms (resistance), put one lead on ground (ground braid in the back box is good) and the other lead on pin 2 of the J107 connector (not the board) and tell us what measurement you see.

You could also measure pins 1 and 3 for reference.

#22 9 years ago

Heya Schwaggs, On the connector (with one lead securely tucked under the ground braid) pin 2 reads "1". As does every other pin on the connector.

That is with J107 and J127 disconnected and the machine off, as you instructed.

#23 9 years ago

OK, I believe that is infinite resistance. Is it the same reading you see when the leads are not touching anything?

Are you sure you made good contact with the pins?

Also, as a test to make sure you have your ground braid lead making good connection, try touching the other lead to one of the screws holding the boards in place. You should see a reading close to zero when touching the screw.

Once you know you are getting a good reading, go back and test pin 2 (and the others).

#24 9 years ago

Heya Schwaggs, ok here's what I have...

Lead securely connected to ground braid (tested on the board screw which drops to ~0.03 when touched by the lead):

J107 pins on the BOARD read:
Pin 1: 9.93
Pin 2: 1
Pin 3: 9.93

J107 pins on the CONNECTOR read:
Pin 1: 1
Pin 2: 1
Pin 3: 1

J107 pins on the CONNECTOR after plugging J127 connector back into the board read:
Pin 1: 1
Pin 2: 0.00
Pin 3: 1

Does this make any sense?

Thanks again!

Cheers,
Greg

#25 9 years ago

Interesting...

I assume you have not replaced F104.

Try this...

Replace F104 but do not turn on the machine.

Connect J107 to the board.

Leave one end of the meter on ground.

Test the resistance of each pin on the J127 connector

And measure the resistance on each pin of J127 on the board

#26 9 years ago

Exactly as instructed...

All pins on J127 connector read ~9.92

#27 9 years ago

The good news is that points to the playfield wiring and coils being OK!

The bad news, as this points us back to a board problem...

Same setup as above, can you measure the resistance of each pin on the driver board J127 with the connector removed?

#28 9 years ago

First off, thanks so much Schwaggs for taking the time to help me through this. It's immeasurably appreciated!

And I think we have progress!

Same setup as above...

All of the pins on the BOARD for J127 read "1"... EXCEPT for pin 4 which reads 0.00!

I'm guessing that's significant? *crosses fingers*

#29 9 years ago

Oops! My bad...

It's actually pin 6 that's reading 0.00

I was counting left-to-right instead of right-to-left.

#30 9 years ago

J127 pin 6 is the right jet bumper. Bad Q50 transistor maybe? Unfortunately I don't know how to test transistors with a DMM.

#31 9 years ago

Take the board out, from the PinWiki....

NPN TO-220 package (TIP-31C, TIP-32C, TIP-41C, TIP-102, TIP-122, MJE15030, 2N6043)

Place the black lead of your DMM on the metal tab of the transistor
Probe each of the flanking legs with the red lead
.4 to .6 volts is a normal reading. Readings outside of this range indicate a failed transistor
Probe the center leg with the red lead
A "short" should be seen. If not, then the transistor has failed.

--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#32 9 years ago

Thanks Chris, I'll go check that out now!

#33 9 years ago

Well now I'm even more confused. lol

I tested all of the transistors associated to solonoids 9-16 and they all appear to be completely dead. 0.00 readings on all 3 posts of each transistor. But then I checked other transistors just to make sure that I was touching the leads correctly and I was getting different readings it seems from every single other transistor. Readings from .45, to 4.6, to 0.0, to whatever.

I would think that if there were that many bad transistors that the whole game would be dead, no? Everything else seems to function perfectly aside from solonoids 9-16.

I'm confuzzled...

#34 9 years ago

What is the part number or model of the meter you are using?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#35 9 years ago

Heya Chris,

It's not a good one. Was only about $30-40 on sale at Canadian Tire here. Is it maybe not accurate enough for this type of stuff?

Cheers,
Greg

DMM.pngDMM.png

#36 9 years ago

That one will work.
Set it to diode check, the 6 o'clock position, right?
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EMcom
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#37 9 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Set it to diode check, the 6 o'clock position, right?

I want to say yes... But I can't.

I'll pop back down to the shop and check the transistors with the correct DMM setting right after Better Call Saul. lol

Sorry to have wasted your time. I'll do better this time.

#38 9 years ago

No worries...
...and, I'm just getting started with BCS. It looks good so far.
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EMcom
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#39 9 years ago

BCS is a lot better than I expected it to be. I'm pleasantly surprised!

Get back to you on my snafu in about a half an hour.

#40 9 years ago

Nice progress!

If you test the transistors with the board still in the machine, you need to remove J127 and J107 to get an accurate test (I believe)...

#41 9 years ago

BAMMM!!!!

Q50 Transistor is bad. All others test within the limit that Chris outlined earlier. So excited to have it narrowed down to the offending component!

Now... I have to go to my local electronics store tomorrow to buy a boatload of 3A SB fuses since I've murdered all the ones I had on hand in the past two days, but as for that transistor... Would one of you fine gentlemen know what transistor to ask for when I go there? I'll buy several to keep a small stock of them, but I don't know offhand what the part number is for the transistor.

Thanks again guys! I couldn't have gotten this far without all of the generous help.

Cheers,
Greg

#42 9 years ago
Quoted from Triumvirat73:

but I don't know offhand what the part number is for the transistor.

TIP 102

LTG : )™

#43 9 years ago

I've had such excellent help and feedback on this thread. I owe all of you guys a frosty malted beverage!

You're all awesome.

Cheers,
Greg

#44 9 years ago

Yup. A TIP-102. I'm not sure the typical RatShack carries them.
Here's the easy way to remove the transistor...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The Place to go for Pinball Repair Info

#45 9 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

Yup. A TIP-102. I'm not sure the typical RatShack carries them.
Here's the easy way to remove the transistor...
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Desoldering_Printed_Circuit_Board_Through_Hole_Components

Wow, this is great! I'm actually looking forward to doing some board work tomorrow! (A year or so ago I wouldn't have thought to say that in a million years)

#46 9 years ago
Quoted from ChrisHibler:

What is odd is that you don't hear a coil lock on.

Quoted from Triumvirat73:

Q50 Transistor is bad.

In that case the coil of the jetbumper is possible melted. Before replacing Q50 and power it up, check the coil.

#47 9 years ago

Thanks zaza. I'll be sure to check it before powering it up.

Cheers,
Greg

#48 9 years ago

If you end up needing to mail order the transistor, get a couple for the future as these are used in tons of places. Also would be worth getting a few of the pre-driver transistor as they often go with the power transistor (the TIP102). The pre-driver is a 2N5401

Both are available from Ed at GPE https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/default.asp

#49 9 years ago

Will do Schwaggs!

Going to be heading to my local electronics shop within the next couple of hours and I'll stock up on the pre-driver as well. Thanks again!

#50 9 years ago

A HUGE THANK YOU to all of you fine folks that participated in this thread. Everyone helped in a huge way!

I just played the first game on my now perfectly playing STTNG!!

I ended up having to replace the transistor, the pre-driver transistor, the resistor, and the right jet bumper coil (as it was cooked). So to everyone that offered assistance I give my sincere thanks! I know that it's "just an internet forum" but I am truly grateful. You offered your time and thought to help a complete stranger overcome a problem he never would have been able to on his own. Not only did you all help me figure out the problem areas, but actually taught me a great deal, and I just couldn't be happier. I owe you all. Cheers!

P.S. STTNG is such an awesome game!

Cheers to all of you,
Greg

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